130 replies to this topic

[Pablo]

Sano, Rick.

You're right, they did crank them out fast in the day, but let us remember a lot of them didn't work well and were simply rejected.
 
I like to use small alligator clips then tack, because my chassis don't enjoy having a spinning and shaking Dremel wheel near them.

[dc-65x]

Good point, Pablo... although it does make life exciting!
 
I should mention about cutting out some of those pieces like the center of the drop arm hinge:
 

 
The piece to be removed was first cut in half down the middle. While making the cut I gently move the cut-off wheel side to side to widen the cut. Sometimes there is some built in tension in the frame that could squeeze against the wheel causing a bind and explode it.

[TSR]

Two more "Steube" cars built in the same period. The first three pics are a steel car built by Bill Jr. and raced by Mike in Tucson in 1971.
The last picture is one of Mike's as used at the 1971 Nats.

[dc-65x]

I love the steel car, Philippe.   It has the same "small wire bumper" running under the guide tongue with two-piece 1/16" wire bumpers in front, no reinforcement wires behind the plumber hinge tubes, and angled rear upright for the front axle tube (among other things) as the wire chassis in the MAR article... very cool!
 
More (slow) progress... the drop arm and drop arm spring are installed:
 

 
Nothing is polished yet, just cleaned up with a Scotch-Brite pad:
 

 
Plumber rails and pan hinges are next...

[Martin]

Sooo clean, great build.

[dc-65x]

Thanks Martin..........I do have a boo boo in a feature I've not done before.   In hindsight my mistake is obvious to me now.

 

 I like to use small alligator clips then tack...............

 

I'll be giving that a try to fix my mistake Pablo..........

[Pablo]

Another reason I like the little clips is, it allows you to pick the chassis up in your hands and tack it at eyeball level.

[Bill from NH]

I do have a boo boo in a feature I've not done before.   In hindsight my mistake is obvious to me now.

 

Can we guess what it is? I might have already found it.    If you had rather, we can give you the opportunity to fix it, afterwards telling us what you fixed.

 

The chassis is progressing nicely.

[Jaz]

When you finally test it, you're going to have to glue that sled. 

 

I'd be interested in a comparison between glue zones vs. full glue speeds.

[Mbloes]

Two more "Steube" cars built in the same period. The first three pics are a steel car built by Bill Jr. and raced by Mike in Tucson in 1971.
 

 

That looks like it just has two steel rails, like the connecting piece that would otherwise make the motor box has been cut away.

[dc-65x]

Here's one example of a steel center section that I've found available lately Mike:
 
 

 
 
I don't think this style could have been used by cutting out the cross piece. Bill Jr.'s rails are straighter. I wish it would work with this style because I'd like to build a steel car like PdL's picture. It's very cool.

 

Jeff, I hope to send the finished car down to Rodney for a test on a full size track. The track is nicely kept up with a spray glue finish. I don't think there will be any additional glue used.

 

Here's the corrected boo boo zone Bill:

 

 

I've never made a plumber stop with a "hook" before, just a straight piece of wire. On my first attempt I only left room for the plumber and forgot about the pan hinge that the "hook" had to clear.

 

Now I can get back on track with the plumber install.....

[Bill from NH]

Mike, when that connecting piece of steel is removed, it's easier to reheat & reform the rear rail ends  individually than it is to try reforming both sides while they are one piece. I had one of the steel center sections like dc-65x shows. They were soon cut apart & the rears of the rails rebent. That was common practice here in the Northeast when steel rail cars were being run, about 1969-71. The steel car PDL shows may have hand-cut tails.

 

Rick's chassis should have plenty of flex. All four front axle tube "L"braces face forward, the main rails are .062 & .055, &  the two rear axle tube "L" braces face rearward..

[TSR]

"Here's one example of a steel center section that I've found available lately..."

Rick, these kits were marketed under the "Checkpoint" brand, but it was a different "Team Checkpoint" based in the Midwest. 
The parts were manufactured for that company by Associated Electrics, and when Mike Steube was conned by Lee Yurada in selling the rights to his name, the "Checkpoint" name went with it.
That made Bill Steube Sr. to have steam coming out of his ears...

[NSwanberg]

That was mean.

[dc-65x]

Moving right along.....although at a slow pace........I bent up the plumber rails and soldered on the pan hinge tubes:

 

 

I also filed hinge clearance notches in the pans and drilled a "blow hole" in the pan hinge tube:

 

 

"Blow holes" are something I add to one piece hinge tubes to help get flux and other goobers out so the pans don't rust up over time. Something not needed in the fast pace PRO racing scene. 

 

 

[dc-65x]

I've got the plumber rails installed:

 

 

I use .055" wire for them and they have nice free movement:

 

 

A couple of closeups of the install:

 

 

 

Now I've got to work on getting the Steube pans flatten-out and cleaned up....

[SlotStox#53]

Superb What size tubing do you use with the. 055 wire Rick?

Chassis is looking amazing

[Pablo]

[John Gorski]

What tooth pinion on the Steube original car?

[TSR]

9/42

[Pablo]

Let's not forget as seen in Rick's first post, the car came with 24, 25, 27, and 28 winds.

That would certainly be a factor.

[TSR]

That one had a S25 and a Faas 9/42 ratio for the Speed & Sport AMCRC "Blue King" track that was not in the best of condition at the time.

[dc-65x]

Hi guys and thanks. Paul, I used regular 3/32" tube for the plumber hinges. The .055" plumber rails have a bit more "slopski" in it. Within the limits of side to side and upward travel I have, the plumber movement feels really nice to me.

[Bill from NH]

Superb What size tubing do you use with the. 055 wire Rick?

Chassis is looking amazing

 

Paul, here in the Northeast we used .055 plumber rails in 3/32 tubing with hinged pans & .047 wire in 3/32 tubing, for more movement, if we were soldering the pans to the plumber rails.

[SlotStox#53]

Thank you Rick and Bill

Handy to have info for build attempts later.