.047" brass rod bracing for the tongue
Bracket bracing, .047" up top and .063" bottom
Posted 01 August 2017 - 07:29 PM
If you feel the rails need to be soldered together, you could try the "half-length" first, but it might not make any difference. Iused to stiffen up a chassis with silver solder, but these weren't inlines, with a few exceptions.
Posted 03 August 2017 - 09:41 PM
Posted 03 August 2017 - 11:15 PM
"Out of the box Paul!" I like it.
Jairus H Watson - Artist
Need something painted, soldered, carved, or killed? - jairuswtsn@aol.com
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Posted 04 August 2017 - 07:57 AM
Thanks guys. First time I've soldered to lead. Thought it would be tricky, but it was easy
Paul Wolcott
Posted 04 August 2017 - 08:43 AM
Posted 04 August 2017 - 09:06 AM
Weight can be your friend Alan. If it's kept low enough of course.
Brass is easy to work with and has great harmonics as well.
But.... this proxy class requires the chassis be all brass, so... ;-)
Jairus H Watson - Artist
Need something painted, soldered, carved, or killed? - jairuswtsn@aol.com
www.slotcarsmag.com
www.jairuswatson.net
http://www.ratholecustoms.com
Check out some of the cool stuff on my Fotki!
Posted 04 August 2017 - 12:40 PM
Pablo
You are going to scare everybody else away with this Premo build
Cheers
Bill Botjer
Faster then, wiser now.
The most dangerous form of ignorance is not knowing that you don't know anything!
Never attribute to malice that which is adequately explained by stupidity
Posted 04 August 2017 - 01:35 PM
Alan, like Jairus said, no wire allowed for this build. The only non-brass item allowed is a small tongue of any material.
No brass sheet allowed, either. Normally I'd make my shaker platform using .015" brass sheet with thin wire pieces inside tubes.
Then use double sided tape to attach the weight atop the platform. It can be removed, moved, trimmed, etc.
This time, I don't have that option.
Thanks Bill, but I doubt I'm scaring anybody
The spec motor is so docile, I'm sure a simple jaildoor chassis with no tricks would work fine.
The emphasis is on beautiful cars and having fun. I can visualize them eating fish n chips and quaffing ale as they drive them
I gave up trying to find firm enough and large enough donuts for my JK wheels.
Plan "B": my >1" OD wheels arrived today
Paul Wolcott
Posted 05 August 2017 - 12:32 AM
Congratulations, sir. You have provided me with another difficult question.
Posted 05 August 2017 - 07:04 AM
I'll remove it, no problemo
Thanks for the clarification
Paul Wolcott
Posted 05 August 2017 - 07:56 AM
It sounds like solid pans made of parallel brass rods would be legal, just a longer rectangle.
Lee Gilbert was right!
Posted 05 August 2017 - 08:42 AM
Gentlemen - thank you for the clarification. The only chassis material rule that I have encountered is the other way around - prohibition of the use of carbon fiber laminate in a few proxies. I still like the little lead shaker idea - it's filed away for future use. While I recognize that weight can help, I find that I have been going lighter recently, either because motor specs are tight and low powered (e.g. FC-130 cans, 14K RPM max) or plotting results over time points to lighter cars finishing higher (VRAA)
EM
Posted 05 August 2017 - 09:01 AM
I suspect that these cars will benefit more from tire tuning than from chassis movement. Too much traction, they tend to roll over. Thus the "Drifting" term.
Jairus H Watson - Artist
Need something painted, soldered, carved, or killed? - jairuswtsn@aol.com
www.slotcarsmag.com
www.jairuswatson.net
http://www.ratholecustoms.com
Check out some of the cool stuff on my Fotki!
Posted 05 August 2017 - 03:46 PM
I agree, Jairus.
Adding lead weight down low always loosens up a car no matter where it's placed.
The further forward the placement, the looser it makes the rear.
My intent with this particular weight was twofold:
-plant the flag to avoid deslots
-make the rear end drift happy
The reason behind making my "shaker" isn't a weight shift trick at all.
It's simply the best way to place weight down low in that location without making a hard connection between the rails.
The location I chose is to counteract the weight of the motor and balance the car fore and aft.
By adding weight forward (theoretically) it actually promotes the rear end to drift and plants the flag in the slot.
I 100% understand and support the decision to not allow it.
Onward Here are my pans
Paul Wolcott
Posted 08 August 2017 - 03:54 PM
Posted 09 August 2017 - 01:45 PM
Flag Tips Tricks and Parts:
-Parma standard thickness flag
-Turning Man 2 degree steel tongue
-TQ 20 lead wire (my new favorite)
-TQ clips
-Koford nut and spacers
John Clow trick: put a spacer up top - during practice, if you need to add one, there it is.
Coastal Angler trick: round off the corners of the nut that contact the wire during flag rotation.
Pablo trick: don't trim the flag shaft too short - if the car is raced at a track with deep braid recess you'll wish you hadn't.
Paul Wolcott