105 replies to this topic

[Pablo]

Drivetrain test results: I nodded off, so I'm not real sure what happened

Seriously, the JK Hawk 25 motor seems to have really strong magnets.

As a motor head, I have to wonder why an anemic motor needs this much cog

 

Anyway, here is my Driftin' Fifties proxy car, minus body.

It was a challenge and I had fun building it

 

 

[Jairus]

Looks GREAT and really loving the dyed gear! 

[Pablo]

Thanks, yup, I graduated the JW School of Crown Gear Dyeing years ago

Up next: body pinning. Possibly the biggest challenge for me

[Jairus]

Preaching to the choir there Paul.

Nobody enjoys that burden.

[Ecurie Martini]

Thanks, yup, I graduated the JW School of Crown Gear Dyeing years ago

Up next: body pinning. Possibly the biggest challenge for me

 I've only built a couple of clear body cars and only one with pin tubes.  I spent some time pondering this problem.  The body, a 1/32 Chrysler 300, was nearly typical 1/24 size.  My solution - built the chassis, trimmed the body and spotted and drilled the pin holes before painting.

 

EM

[MSwiss]

Thanks, yup, I graduated the JW School of Crown Gear Dyeing years ago
Up next: body pinning. Possibly the biggest challenge for me

These would solve your body pinning issues.

http://slotblog.net/...pinning-blocks/

[Pablo]

What I meant was, the body isn't tall enough to reach all the way to the bottom of the chassis without the wheels contacting the wheel wells.

[Samiam]

Try narrowing the track. 

 

Just checked pic of roller. No can do.

 

OK...install a set of smaller tires to ease positioning and trimming?

[mike1972chev]

"What I meant was, the body isn't tall enough to reach all the way to the bottom of the chassis without the wheels contacting the wheelwells."

 

Mr. PABLO is this a result of setting the chassis so low away from the axles? Meaning if the chassis pan was raised CLOSER to where the front and rear axle center lines were,the body wheel wells would line up better with the tires?

 

 

Just trying to learn a few things here.  

[MSwiss]

Install some brass squares or rectangles, adjacent to the existing pin tubes, and solder some new pin tubes on top of them.

Obviously, the body will sit high, and you will be able to see the chassis from the side.

[Ecurie Martini]

OK - I see what you mean.  The problem, assuming that the body is close to scale, is that, from photographs, the lower edge of the body falls on a line that is midway between the wheel centers and the ground or, for 1" tires, ~ 1/4"  Can you add a plastic "skirt" to the lower edge of the body, paint it flat black and pin through that?
 
EM

[Pablo]

Smaller wheels isn't an option, due to the rules.

The axle locations are dictated by the wheel sizes, not something that is adjustable.

 

Sure, I can make pin tubes as high as I want, but that won't change the fact the skirts are gonna have to be above the bottom of the pans.

Look at Jairus' car, the way his body is mounted. Mine is going to similar but not sure if I'm going to do it that way.

 

The rules maker understands all this and has given us permission to be creative if necessary.

Right now my skirts are cut below the cut line and it still won't reach the bottoms of the pans.

 

Alan's suggestion is one option, another is Jairus's method of using an exhaust.

[Jairus]

These vintage bodies are molded pretty close to the real thing.
So... take a look at the actual cars and you can SEE the chassis below the body work.

Angle your pin tubes is the simplest answer.
Just because the chassis shows is not a deal breaker in my book. (Which is why I kept my chassis sort of narrow.) 

[MSwiss]

If you add skirts, I would still pin through the body.

Since the car is going to be raced, you don't know how it's going to be marshaled, and if it gets ham-fisted, you don't know if the skirts are going to start peeling away from the body.(edit-especially with having to double stick the skirts to a painted body)

[Half Fast]

My $.02

 

1- Is there another taller body that will work?

 

2- Move the pans to the top of the hinges (will probably hurt handling though)

 

Cheers

[Ecurie Martini]

If you add skirts, I would still pin through the body.

If the car is going to be raced, you don't know how it's going to be marshaled, and if it gets ham-fisted, you don't know if the skirts are going to start peeling away from the body.

 

Good point and even if you extended the skirt slightly above the bottom of the body and added a fillet of epoxy, the ultimate strength of the joint would, since it appears that the body is painted on the inside, depend on the adhesion of the paint.  How thick is the body?

 

EM

[Ecurie Martini]

Another thought - redo the pan stops so the pans are angled up.  I think the impact on the CG would be modest and the visibility of the pans would be significantly reduced.

 

EM

[mike1972chev]

Are you trying to maintain a certain,specific spacing between the bottom of the chassis and the track surface? 

[Pablo]

Clearance rules are 15/50 thou, same as retro.

 

Stand by, I'll be tackling the challenge head on this afternoon.

[Pablo]

Thanks to everybody, I appreciate all the suggestions

I have weighed all my options and decided on a solution - simple and smart, basically Swiss' post #61.

 

First step is disassembly of most of the parts, and installing a fresh new 409 cutting wheel on my Dremel.

Minor surgery and a little soldering is all that's needed. Sounds easy but it may take me a couple days

 

 

[Pablo]

The only parts I really didn't want to remove were the fronts so I prepped them for surgery.

It may look funny but I do not want acid or brass dust on them

 

 

 

[Pablo]

I knew it was going to be ugly, but I think the body will sit right where I want it now.

About 1/16" of the ends of the hinge rods was removed, and four new pin tubes sit atop the originals

 

[Pablo]

I hoped raising the body 1/16" would solve the problem, and I was wrong.

The wheels rub the body as soon as the body flexes even the slightest amount.

The car was build exactly to specs as per the rules, and the body was cut exactly on the cut line.

 

 

My opinion is, 1" OD wheels are way too big. Hopefully others will have better results than I did.

 

[Pablo]

Track test #1 results:

 

-handling is great, she drifts real nice, scoots along OK, is very forgiving and a joy to drive

-zero problems, other than the tops of the tires touch the body under cornering

 

I don't agree with the mandated wheel size of 1" min. OD and my opinion is it would be a fun build with 7/8" min. OD wheels.

I didn't enjoy having to butcher my pans and butcher the body to somehow make it work, and it still rubs.

 

That's just my experience and my opinion. I'm locking the thread, not in anger, just want to see what others come up with.

Hopefully the problem will be resolved ...........

[Pablo]

Painted my second Maserati 450S body, since my first one was basically ruined by me assuming the bottom of the body should be level with the bottom of the chassis.

Thank goodness Steve-a-Roonie Kempson sent me two beautiful John Dilworth bodies   So I'm still in the game.

 

 

This time, I'm leaving the extra material below the cut line on the sides long and untrimmed.

The car needs that, in addition to clever pan tricks, to make it all work