126 replies to this topic

[boxerdog]

For sure, the 100 mph plus guys aren't running hardbodies but the hardbody gassers sure are popular. No-bars are kinda catching on too. I like building them, but it is time-consuming and I don't drag race so they turn into box queens!

 

Here are a couple that I've since finished:

Attached Images

• 
• 

[Gator Bob]

Class - Hardbody Stock, no-bars, spec tires and gear, sealed 36D, heavy min weight. LOL

 

Model Motoring.

 

Three things are a turn off for me.

 

1- Dragster O ring fronts on full size scale cars.

2- Figuring out how to spot the pin locations when the body is never clear.

3- Building a pretty scale model only to go stuff it in glue you can't even sniff....

 

I tried it ... once...

 

[SlotStox#53]

You can get *phatter* more scale looking O rings from protrack. Plus they do foam fronts aswell for 1" diameter.

Looks mean as heck

Plus I think I see some bars ?

[Foamy]

So...what rule changes for next year? Hardbodies for stock?

[Gator Bob]

That's what I'm thinking ... a Hardbody only, no bars Stock class.

 

Stock padlock or spec 36D ... not sure yet.

 

Don't want to stray any further from our roots with can motors but guys like their Big 36Ds  huba huba

[boxerdog]

Here's a thought. Stock appearing Kemtron/KTM and hardbodies of some defined years/body styles, basically GBobs Valiant, only with a hardbody.

 

Reason? There are way more Kemtrons out there than any other padlocks, near as i can tell. Rather than try to police the arms, let 'em go. The brushes will most likely be the limiting factor. Stock endbells, brushes, magnets, lams, etc. 

 

Just my .02

 

dc

[Tom Katsanis]

I am up for that my 64 Dodge already meets those specs it will be intresting to see how it competes with Bobs Chevy & the same in 36d class both me & Bill are running hard bodies although mine is a fair amount heavier than Bills & with vintage rubber too I'm looking forward to seeing the outcome in all of these classes.
Tom

[Gator Bob]

I consider Kenton/KTM 'imported' padrocks great 'post war' motors,

I like them as a factory wound, unbalanced, no BBs, no neo,  spec class motor.

Cheap, available and the 4 volt motors go good.

 

We could call it "The 503" stock block class.

 

I think we should move the body 'model' year back from 1970 to 196?, a point in time when these were still used but maybe not as competitive ...

 

Don't think it's a good idea to ad a class. Which class should "The 503" replace?

[Tom Katsanis]

Stock padlock class looks like the go I believe all cars running in it are 503 powered anyway just a body change maybe make it 60 to 67 body styles or to what ever year Pittmans chevelle is.
Tom

[SlotStox#53]

Isn't this just the stock Eliminator class already ? Stock padlock/open frame, standard bushings etc and kit shells?

**reminds me I've gotta pick up several of those 4volt screamers**

[Gator Bob]

Isn't this just the stock Eliminator class already ? Stock padlock/open frame, standard bushings etc and kit shells?

**reminds me I've gotta pick up several of those 4volt screamers**

 

Yes in a way, but this is hardbody only, one motor only.

so it would have to replace or compliment the current Stock Eliminator class.

 

Something would need to be dropped.... Stock 36D or Stock Eliminator.

I don't know.

[SlotStox#53]

I get ya, maybe look at the least popular and drop it. Seems more are entered & interested in the 36D based classes?

[Tom Katsanis]

Would it work to keep it the way it is but just hardbody for stock eliminator with Kemtron/ktm motors any cars running lexan bodies that the owner wants to keep that way can move into rods class the same for if there are any cars running non kemtron padlocks that way it wouldn't seem like losing a class to me anyway it would just be making stock eliminator a little more strict like stock 36d.Or just any un modified padlock in a hardbody as long as the arms don't look custom wound I'm sure it will still be close its just the kemtrons are more common & cheaper than everything else so anyone can build one.or you can even raise the minimum weight to the point a hardbody wouldnt have a disadvantage over a lexan body.
Tom

[boxerdog]

I think if we do too many 36d classes we are missing the whole point. It is a slippery slope to 26d then 16d sort of.

 

The only reason I mentioned the Kemtrons is availability and hardbodies because they look cool. 

 

Of course there are the Mustangs and Broncos....but we could ban them.

[SlotStox#53]

Definitely no extra 36d or any other can classes, the stock Bobcat & Big 36D are cool enough

The standard X503 is simple and at the moment fairly abundant online even without mentioning that huge stash of 4volt locks!

Luckily the Mustang & Bronco aren't as available and totally not standard 503 so it's easy to say standard 503 "only".

Plus it's easy to spot the RAM spec arms and the cast endplates.

Would the ratios & rear tires be spec like the stock 36D rules are?

[Gator Bob]

All this should have been in the discussion thread but anyway...

 

I think we are close.

 

1966 or before scale Hardbody,

factory 503 (or KTM=),

no-bars,

3:1,

RR 1"min x.400, 

FR no O rings.

[boxerdog]

I like it all except the spec gear. 

[hiline2]

As per G-Bobs instructions, here are my entries

3 are repeats of past runs , 1 new

All padlock motors

Rails are Pittman 85s

Hard body cars are kemtrons

 

Attached Images

• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 

[Gator Bob]

I

think if we do too many 36d classes we are missing the whole point. It is a slippery slope to 26d then 16d sort of.

 

 

Agree ! I can feel we are on that path.

 

I'm trying to keep cars slower not faster. Old and Slow. The new fast.

It's not ALL about getting from point A to point B the fastest, but the funnest.  Reliving the Golden Years.... wop,wop,wop,.

We'll see how it goes but it seems the most logical to drop would be the Stock K&B motor class.

 

I better take a trip to "The Kemtron Store" and see if there are any 'dusty goodies' left.     

 

 

Of course there are the Mustangs and Broncos....but we could ban them.

 

 

But still good in any Rod or Rail class just not in the 503 Heavyweights.

[Gator Bob]

Bob, I liked that car from day one, so don't get me wrong....

 

 

 

Considering it is the worst pull vac body I've ever seen

 think it must have been pulled right over a model body or so some such amateurish technique.  

 

Just a blast when it goes 'on the bumper'. Might be the most fun car I've ever had. And...that's a good thing..

[BillB]

Years ago we ran an F/S Class with almost everything being spec. out. Chassis, motor, gears, bushings, tires. Hardbody and min. weight. Competition was tight and the class proved to be a lot of fun. I don't recall the body year spec. but I'm thinking 1960-69 stock American production, and a driver. Actually I believe the model you choose had to be approved.

 

Should be a good class to add to our vintage program with the 503 motor. Never played with one...looking forward to it!

[Gator Bob]

The "Hurst Hairy Olds"

 

Motors -- RAM 426A
Chassis - Dynamic
Tires - Fr.& R.  Classic 6 spoke 5/40 1.125" x.500

Body - Kit
Weight - 294.5
Class - Multi-Motor Exhibition

 

======

.

.

.

.

 

 

[hiline2]

 

I

think if we do too many 36d classes we are missing the whole point. It is a slippery slope to 26d then 16d sort of.

 

 

Agree ! I can feel we are on that path.

 

I'm trying to keep cars slower not faster. Old and Slow. The new fast.

It's not ALL about getting from point A to point B the fastest, but the funnest.  Reliving the Golden Years.... wop,wop,wop,.

We'll see how it goes but it seems the most logical to drop would be the Stock K&B motor class.

 

I better take a trip to "The Kemtron Store" and see if there are any 'dusty goodies' left.     

 

 

Of course there are the Mustangs and Broncos....but we could ban them.

 

 

But still good in any Rod or Rail class just not in the 503 Heavyweights.

 

Now if we could only simulate shifting gears ! blown transmissions and dropped diffs !

[hiline2]

Which "503's"?  the 12v 8v or 4v ??      

[boxerdog]

Which "503's"?  the 12v 8v or 4v ??      

I'd say any of them so that "teching" is easier. Who knows the difference between a 6v and an 8v? And I doubt we really want to meter, etc.