134 replies to this topic

[Pablo]

Guide lead will be 1/4"

 

[munter]

Independently rotating fronts to go with short guide lead?

 

I am learning stuff here.

[Pablo]

Inserts needed trimming from .445 to about .400.

I CA glued them to dummy axles, chucked 'em up to my poor man's lathe, and hit 'em with sandpaper

 

 

Rattle can flat black, followed by Testor's enamel Metallic silver brushed on the knockoffs

 

 

 

[Rotorranch]

Rotor

[Pablo]

I saw it - Parnelli used the airbrake coming into the pits

[Ecurie Martini]

One of the (many) reasons I had no use for USAC - They successfully turned Indianapolis into Jurassic Park.

 

EM

[Pablo]

The black CA glue did not secure the urethane wheels worth a darn.

So I went back to what I know works - Wonder Rubber fronts, coated with clear nail polish.

 

I apologize for all the posts on this car that never came to fruition.

Most of the effort and cash to make nice wheels ended up in the garbage 

 

Onward. Wheels are done. The nail polish on the fronts looks weird, but pays dividends in handling.

 

Inserts were a precious gift from Gary Stelter

 

 

 

 

 

 

[bluecars]

Don't apologize for the things that don't work. may save someone else their time and money.

[Bill from NH]

Should you try urethanes again, the local 1/24 hard body club has been using IC2000, a flexible CA glue,  on both roadcourse & drag tires the past three years. Paul Gage recommends using a clear nail polish. That's what most 1/32 racers use when gluing tires on rims.

[munter]

The black CA glue did not secure the urethane wheels worth a darn.

 

 

I have used the black IC2000 and it works OK but for urethanes the cheapest nastiest CA glue works fine. For "rubber" tires I use the Uhu brand of glue which grabs better and doesnt cause cracks or splits like the cheap brands do.

[Pablo]

Warmac 1/32 mirrors are perfect

 

 

 

[munter]

They do look good

[Pablo]

Thanks munter

 

PCH hard 3/32 axle in brass tube, with about 1/16" side to side slop

 

[Pablo]

My good friend Samiam sent me the perfect vintage Dynamic 1/8" hole tongue gizmo for this car

 

 

[don.siegel]

Yep, those are great gizmos - make drop arms a lot easier! 

 

I managed to pick up a pack each of 1/8 and 3/16 awhile ago, and they still pop up on ebay occasionally... 

 

Looking forward to seeing this car take shape, 

 

Don 

[Pablo]

All jigged up; plans and dimensions are pretty much written in stone at this point:

 

WB 3", GL 1/4", wheel widths 2 1/2" front and rear, 3/32 axles, Speed Ring oilites
Rears JK plastic hubs shod with Wonder Rubber .425" wide X .805" OD
Fronts JK plastic hubs shod with Wonder Rubber and coated with nail polish, .385" wide X .775" OD
Rear clearance .028"; front .022"

Dynamic vintage tongue, 1/8 shaft vintage flag, vintage soft silver braid

Warmack mirrors, Indycals decals mounted inside
PCH axles; front rotates in a tube

Halibrand wheel inserts were gifted by Gary Stelter

 

[Tim Wilkins]

Front row seat on this one Pablo

 

Attached Images

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[Pablo]

Tongue needs to be elevated about .125 above ground zero, so I I sandwiched two .063 chunks of brass together.

Then used mini-alligator clips to minitorch a nice .127 thick sandwich.

 

 

I'll trim it to size in parallelogram as per my rough drawing

[Pablo]

My .125" thick "Chunky" weighs 10 grams.

Actual final dimensions are 5/8" front, 11/16" rear, 7/8" long

 

 

[Pablo]

1/16 rod is too big to fit into the tongue holes, so I used .047" brass rods.

It's a sloppy fit, which is good because solder flows into it.

 

Bunky, don't even try a solder job like this without a minitorch

 

 

Now it's rail time......

[SlotStox#53]

Nothing like a thick brass sandwich requiring mini torch action! A Pablo build isn't complete without a mini torch

Great project & So many ways you can build em.

[Pablo]

Thanks Paul   Besides taking a finished chassis out of the tumbler in the morning,

this part of a custom build is my favorite moment:

 

All parts are in place, time to connect them. Sounds easy, but it's challenging to get it right.

How much flex do I want?

How much strength do I need?

How do I allow the front wheels to help, not hinder, handling?

How do I make it work in conjunction with the body?

How do I make it look like something a guy built back in the day, and keep it simple?

 

For this little car, I'm thinking:

-not a lot of WB, so whatever flex I make has to be in a very short space between the bracket and chunk

-body is thick and it's not a high powered car, so strength isn't much of an issue

-front axle tube will probably be connected and governed by torsion rails

-body mounting will be 1/16" brass tubing, no movement

 

 

[Pablo]

First rails tacked in place. They continue past the chunk and serve as Jairus style flag stops

 

[Pablo]

Added another rail set and I'll stop there - I have what I believe to be a proper amount of strength and flex.

 

Made an experimental torsion front axle rod connector, tacked it in, and felt it.

It clears the body, gives me the "give" I want for the front wheels, so I'll make one for the other side

 

[Pablo]

.047" brass rod "U" brace for the front axle connection