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A tale of two Bandits


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#26 Martin

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Posted 14 September 2019 - 12:12 AM

Thanks to you. Its great to see Paul build you the car of your youth. This one will be better that new if we know Bablo.

Fun to watch it come together.


Martin Windmill




#27 Pablo

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Posted 14 September 2019 - 05:59 PM

The Cox greys slipped onto the hubs with my JK donut tool absolutely perfect with just a slight bulge on both sides. Now they cure for a couple days

 

IMG_3515.JPG

 

 


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Paul Wolcott

#28 Larry Horner

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Posted 14 September 2019 - 06:52 PM

Looks like they were meant for each other!


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#29 Pablo

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Posted 15 September 2019 - 09:50 AM

Crown gears - wanna hear something freaky? A 28T Parma pink mikes about .695" OD, Cox .695, Weldun .705.

A white Wilson's mikes about .662" :shok: No wonder they always mesh so badly, eh?


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#30 Larry Horner

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Posted 15 September 2019 - 12:11 PM

Pablo, we've talked about this already but I'll share for those following along. When I originally bought this car, the track owner took it out of the box and replaced the stock crown with a Cox before I'd even driven the car. He knew. I then drove the car for about 15 minutes and found that the stock black spongies it came with were HORRIBLE! I went back to the track owner and he reached under the counter and produced a fresh pair of grey spongies (probably Cox as well) already mounted and trued on an identical set of American Mags. Again, he knew...



#31 Pablo

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Posted 15 September 2019 - 03:46 PM

Yup  :D


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#32 Pablo

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Posted 15 September 2019 - 07:26 PM

Minor surgery time. The motor was installed so nicely I hated to remove it. But it was necessary - the installed 8T brass pinion had to come out, and the chassis needed to be clearanced for the lower motor spring coils.

 

As long as I had to remove it, I wanted to check if the motor was bound up in any way by the forward endbell housing harness. I didn't suspect it was, but it didn't cost me anything to check it. So I tested the amp draw before surgery - she drew 1.7 amps at 3 volts and sounded perfectly smooth, quiet, and rev happy :)

 

The endbell screw attaching the Dynamic gizmo looks dangerously close to conflicting with the custom Havlicek bushing brace

 

IMG_3527.JPG

 

In fact it was too close; you can see a slight galling

 

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So I shaved the head from .150" down to .142" then re-polished it with 400, then 2,000 grit just to be safe

 

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New 7T brass pinion pressed on. Mated to a 28T Cox crown with about .770 OD wheels will be the best combination for this car in my opinion  :sun_bespectacled:  A straight cut steel 7T and a Parma pink dyed black would be the best choice for a race car but Larry can always go that route later on if he becomes a speed-crazed moron  :laugh2:

 

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Chassis notched for spring clearance

 

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Lead wires re-soldered to make it look SANO as possible, and both rotating surfaces of the Dynamic flag hole faced with Magnehone

 

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Motor re-tested to ensure amp draw is the same, yep - 1.7 amps at 3 volts. So it wasn't bound up to begin with, and it's not bound up now  :good:  Everything is buttoned up once again and let me just say, every H motor I test always seems absolutely super. But this one is so smooth and quiet I had to feel the shaft to tell when it was spinning - yes it's that smooth. This puppy is very rev happy and sounds really potent. It's almost too much power, but it's so smooth it may be the best Bandit ever  :)


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Paul Wolcott

#33 Pablo

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Posted 16 September 2019 - 04:56 PM

-Tires rough trimmed to about .815. Now they cure another day before final trim/true to about .775

-New Dynamic white flag blueprinted and faced

-Cox 28T crown, slightly used and it's the truest one in my stash

 

IMG_3549.JPG


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#34 Pablo

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Posted 16 September 2019 - 06:18 PM

Next step, determine rear axle brass tube spacer lengths, etc. I need the widest axle I could find to support both a 3" width and the knockoffs. Larry supplied 3" axles but I found some in my stash that are slightly wider. This one is new, perfectly straight, has a nice flat spot, and will space the wheels/nuts/existing brass tube pieces/knockoffs perfectly at almost a full 3" when used with Professor Motor .125" Teflon spacers

 

IMG_3557.JPG

 

A note for all vintage freaks, the large Champion steel spacers are nice but be careful when using them with BB's. Spacers should only touch the inner BB races, not both inner and outer. The outer rings are soldered solid to the chassis; only the inner rings rotate. So you could lose a lot of horsepower here if you're not careful  :)

 

Wrong:

 

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Right:

 

IMG_3555.JPG

 

Same process for the fronts; using my widest straightest best new 3" axle, original tube spacers, and small brass nuts, I can make the wheel widths almost a full 3" and still use the knockoffs. Larry's parts gathering was very good; I simply fine tuned it  :victory:

 

IMG_3559.JPG

 

 


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Paul Wolcott

#35 Pablo

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Posted 16 September 2019 - 08:21 PM

"A tale of two doggies" - mechanical and body maker Q/A puppies (JoJo Wolcott and Gene/ZR1 Pug) concur all is good; nothing left but to await arrival of front tires and root beer paint

 

IMG_3568.JPG

 

GeneZR1 and Pug.jpg

 

 


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Paul Wolcott

#36 Bill from NH

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Posted 16 September 2019 - 08:42 PM

F.Y.I. Bearings with extended inner races should be available, depending upon what you use for bearings. Extended inner races eliminates the possibility of anything placed on an axle from contacting both inner & outer races.


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#37 Martin

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Posted 16 September 2019 - 10:36 PM

Don't forget Bill, Paul is using a custom bearing adapter, so the bearing is inset, Very neat, see above pic. 

 Unless you want friction brakes in the corners? :crazy:


Martin Windmill

#38 Larry Horner

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Posted 17 September 2019 - 12:20 AM

Wow, step away for a day and look what happens! The new rears look awesome, can't wait to see the fronts too. This is coming together much faster than I though (says the man who took a full year to come up with a body mount). And the dogs look awesome too! Gene if you're following along, I have a calendar where each month recreates a scene from Lord of the Rings ... with pugs!



#39 Pablo

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Posted 17 September 2019 - 04:26 PM

Final trim/true at .775" OD which gives the chassis 1/16" clearance. The gear clears 1/32" which was legal back in the day

 

IMG_3571.JPG

 

Time to begin the body trim and mount process. I secured dummy axles front and rear using keepers. WB will be about 3 15/16". The Gene/ZR1 body is absolutely top notch detailed and totally user-friendly - cut lines are precise - even the mounting notches are perfectly placed  :clapping:

 

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There are many Bandit varieties, but this one is Larry's  :laugh2:

 

IMG_3578.JPG


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#40 Larry Horner

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Posted 18 September 2019 - 01:20 AM

Looking at my old body, perhaps this car should be called a Phoenix instead of a Bandit? Love your workspace Pablo, it's even messier than mine!



#41 Pablo

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Posted 18 September 2019 - 06:48 PM

Thanks Larry; at least I know where everything is. I haven't lost a single car after 5 pages of SB builds  :laugh2:

 

The secret to trimming bodies is, a little at a time. For a vintage body that's relatively thick, I use sandpaper taped to a flat block and hand sand it

 

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Then punch the axle holes with a hole punch

 

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Next step will be to cut the mount notches, which are about 9/32 above ground zero

 

 

 

 

 

 


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#42 Lou E

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Posted 18 September 2019 - 08:14 PM

Looks like I need to get myself a hole punch, those axle holes came out perfect!
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#43 Pablo

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Posted 18 September 2019 - 08:24 PM

Learned that trick from Chris Barnes  :D  and it works like a charm. Removing the gizmo that collects the holes makes it work even better 


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#44 Martin

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Posted 19 September 2019 - 09:40 AM

I even use the hole punch as a nibbler to cut out wheel arches etc.

 

Would you like to borrow my rectangular hole punch to cut those slots (just kidding) I wish I had one.


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#45 Pablo

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Posted 19 September 2019 - 10:16 AM

Yes please I need one! That, a Cox open end wrench, and a Dynamic knockoff tool. You could call me "Tim the Tool Man"  :)


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#46 Martin

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Posted 19 September 2019 - 10:53 AM

 I have duplicates of the Cox wrenches for sure. Notice there are 2 Cox wrenches I will send you both.

Not really sure which one is for Dynamic knock offs. #13 or #12 I think.

Just let me know and they are yours.

http://slotblog.net/...3959-tool-time/


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#47 Rotorranch

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Posted 19 September 2019 - 11:33 AM

Martin, #12 is the Dynamic wrench.

 

Rotor

 

 

IMG_20190919_122856.jpg

 

IMG_20190919_122904.jpg


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#48 Pablo

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Posted 19 September 2019 - 03:58 PM

I was just funnin' Martin, send 'em to somebody who needs 'em. Here is actually what I do have. The Cox wrench metal is so soft it's virtually worthless, so I just keep it on my desk for looks  :)  The socket is the correct size for Cox acorn tapered axle nuts  :sun_bespectacled:

 

IMG_3596.JPG


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#49 Martin

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Posted 19 September 2019 - 04:01 PM

I have Cox wrenches and a #13 to send you.

Let me know.

Our posts almost crashed 

Never minding.


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Martin Windmill

#50 Pablo

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Posted 19 September 2019 - 05:21 PM

Thanks Martin, send them to somebody who needs the addiction. Me, I'm already there  :)

 

But seriously I wish I had a punch tool for the body mount notches. One small slip and I botch a lot of work. I grabbed a test swatch of the body trimmings and tried many methods - punching, hot punching, nail file to widen a #11 XActo slice, multiple slices, spinning a min-circular file in a drill, punching with a sharpened brass piece, non-sharpened brass piece, nothing works well

 

IMG_3597.JPG

 

I have the exact punch locations Sharpie marked on the body. All I need is a foolproof method to cut four .039" high .270" wide notches. Appreciate any and all good ideas, fellow Slotbloggers  :sun_bespectacled:


Paul Wolcott





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