3573 replies to this topic

[Gator Bob]

John....Very Nice !!!
Are you doing a little Baby 13D and a Big Daddy 36D too?

[Jairus]

Looks great John!

[havlicek]

Thanks Bob and Jairus

Are you doing a little Baby 13D and a Big Daddy 36D too?

I'll be doing an FT36D for sure Bob, I'm not sure I even have any more 13UO setups around and those are a LOT more limited (if you keep the stock endbell...which I would for this group) than their larger brothers anyway. They can be massaged a little and still (probably) stay together, but that's about it.

Once I finish the "Czech" group, I'm going to do a big wire...a really big wire Mura, I'm thinking a #23 awg. Then down the road a little, a Russkit "23" for old times sake

-john

[Robert V.]

Hi John

They both look great, yes a 36D would look good along side the other 2, a big wire Russkit that should be interesting to see i hope you paint it gold i love the Russkit color.

[havlicek]

Hi Robert,

The Russkit would most likely be a #29 single...but possibly a #31 double wind. Tony has said that the 55T/#29 wind was the wind from back in the day, so I would most likely stick with that. I do have some gold paint that it a pretty good match for the Russkit color. What I'd really like to come up with is a decent "Russkit" sticker for the motor. I did have some around here but can't find them any more and I may have given them away. I'm pretty sure the "23" used the red and gold sticker while the earlier "22" used the black and gold sticker...but maybe I have that bass-ackwards.

The big wire motor would definitely be a Mura because a #24 or (heaven help me) a #23 is a stoooooopid wind no matter how you slice it

-john

[don.siegel]

Close John! The later sticker , written "Russkit 23" in gold on red background, with a gold trim; but the earlier one is just "Russkit" without the 22, and it's the same gold writing and edge trim against a black background.

I just found these two labels in a drawer if you want me to send them to you for copying.

For winds, the only one I really remember - burned in my mind cause it was the only race I won - is a 60 x 30 with Versitec magnets glued into a K&B Wildcat can... and I know you're a fan of those too!

I do remember doing double winds, and trying to match both wire length and number of turns, but can't remember what the numbers were!

Don

[Bill from NH]

John, you have the Russkit labels correct.

[tonyp]

Back on the old power packs we used to use:

60 to 70 of 30

55 of 29

50 plus of 28 but always hard to get on an arm holding it by hand.

The best and last motor I rewound had 50 turns of 28 simco silver wire, Hemi arm can and magnets, mabuchi end bell. After that I concentrated on building chassis and left the horsepower to those who could do it better..

[havlicek]

For winds, the only one I really remember - burned in my mind cause it was the only race I won - is a 60 x 30 with Versitec magnets glued into a K&B Wildcat can... and I know you're a fan of those too!

Yep Don...LOVE those yellow guys because of the memories I have of them as a kid

I just found these two labels in a drawer if you want me to send them to you for copying.

I don't have a good way of copying them Don, but no big deal and I DO appreciate the offer This reminds me though, could you please PM me with your address? I need to send you something I think you'll have good use for.

John, you have the Russkit labels correct.

Thanks Bill...and as usual I'm more confused than when I started (see Don's post above)!

Back on the old power packs we used to use:

60 to 70 of 30

55 of 29

50 plus of 28 but always hard to get on an arm holding it by hand.

Thanks for the info Tony...and yeah, I can see how 50+ of #28 on a Mabuchi stack (with it's fairly limited room) would be a difficult thing, especially holding it by hand!

-john

[havlicek]

I just put the finishing touches on my "Czech" group of Mabuchis, by completing the FT36D member of the family. For the arm, a #28 single wind measuring .358 ohms (pretty much exactly!) per pole and drawing comfortably under 1 amp seemed about right. The arm got a Mura com (gently and carefully reamed out for the larger shaft...which was replaced with a drill blank) and welded, although as the setup stands, this wind may have been OK with soldered com tabs.



For the endbell, I used a pretty clean example that wasn't even cracked (well...just slightly anyway) around the bushing...surprise! I bent the hoods over the heatsinks for better contact and soldered them. I also cut some antenna tubing to sleeve the spring posts, and did a "keyed fit" so they stay put. This meant winding a set of ,015" guitar string springs as well for the larger spacing of the 36D end bell since modern springs won't reach.



Of course, the motor got a set of Arco magnets and I shimmed them to close up the hole. I also had to make a pair of magnet spring-retainers, but the whole shebang makes for a dandy motor that runs cool at under one amp, but is strong and smooth.



The endbell came pre-melted in the corner so..."it wasn't me!" (even though I have done that at times! )
Here's the completed family portrait:



-john

[Robert V.]

They all look great together and should be strong runners i am shore the new owner will be very happy with them.

[Alchemist]

Those Czech motors not only looks awesome but "exclusive" as well!! Fantastic as always John! - I'm excited for the owners of these motors!

By the way, Congrats on getting over 3,000 replies!!!!!

Ernie

[havlicek]

Thanks Ernie I'm going to keep doing the "Czech" thing at times for certain Mabuchis.

I'm excited for the owners of these motors!

The group went to one guy

-john

[Alchemist]

Wow! What a fortunate fellow! They look so cool John - but then all your motors look like "jewels" to me!!

Ernie

[havlicek]

Old School:







...now on to the endbell and magnets!

-john

[Kim Lander]

John,
Youa rae hurting me man, love the motors, nice collector set, hope all is well up there, hot as h-ll here, heat index 100 plus every day...makes staying indoors and winding much more fun...got something in the works for ya, be on the lookout for a package, not sure when but it will get there.

[havlicek]

Thanks Kim (as always)...I'll be on the lookout

Here's something I came across recently that I found interesting. It's marked "Mabuchi" and "FT16" (no "D"). While it retains the familiar brush tube/heatsink-under-hood hardware arrangement of the vintage Mabuchis, it is made of a more modern and very tough material that seems like the stuff they made Mura endbells from. The bushing strap/boss is much wider and carries a full size bushing...looks like a 2mm x 6mm, but I haven't removed it to measure it yet. Of course, it's a perfect snap fit for an FT16D can. I assume it's relatively "modern", but haven't seen one before, anyone know what these came from?



-john

[Prof. Fate]

Hi

That endbell came in two versions with a cheap ball bearing and a plain steel bushing. This is a variant of the end bells from about 69 on. This is coincident with the NCC group 12s, and the switch from 140/34 wind to a 65/30 wind for the "group 12"motors.

The first version is the cheap 26d type ball bearing. The later plain version comes out in the 70s.

there is one more version which fits the "160" motor. A 16d with thicker can metal, this endbell, and blue wire, 65/30 wind which is common in things like the TwinnK cars(Group 32 from Sweden) in the 70s. This one is about a half mm bigger than the usual 16d.

Fate

[havlicek]

Thanks for the info Rocky. A shame they had such good material for the end bell only a few years after...but too little too late and Mabuchi never seemed to either "get it" or even if they did, not care enough to upgrade their stuff. That left a huge hole for the boutique motor folks to fill and Mabuchi became irrelevant in no time. I'm going to use this end bell for the build I'm doing now because it's "roughly period" and should be able to take a bunch more heat than even a Tradeship...or Champion.

-john

[HarV Wallbanger III]

Thats what I was going to say Rocky it looks like a Super 80 Mabuchi endbell.

[Prof. Fate]

Hi

I am not sure we were ever "the market" in the mind of Mabuchi. These days, as an example, a variant of our Ten buck D3 motors sold by mabuchi involves them selling some 20 MILLION motors a year to GM!

Back then, 16ds were ca $2.50, the Twinn K 160d was 9 bucks.

Fate

[havlicek]

I got a chance to finish up my "just for grins" 23 build. "Just for grins" because it's for no one in particular (unless someone asks!) and it's got some things that make it of a later period than a Team Russkit motor. The way I see it, it's a motor that could have been done by an enthusiast in the later '60's using parts he had laying around. After finishing the can earlier I did an arm, in this case a #28 wind that's not crazy-hot but sure does have some oomph...think around G20 horsepower. Magnets are a set of Dynamic "can-in-a-can" jobbies...quite strong, but they leave a pretty small hole, so the arm diameter was taken a ways down to (I think) around .490 or so. Blank is Mabuchi, com is Kirkwood. I was going to use a later Mabuchi end bell, but decided against it as I didn't like either the steel bushing or the "look" of the thing:



Instead, I set up a Tradeship by just soldering the hoods and winding a pair of .015" stainless steel springs. The color of them is 'wrong", but the look seems a bit more "period" than modern ones. What I like about doing these is that I can cut the short leg long enough to engage both slots in the heatsinks...but not so long as to get hung up on the hoods (hopefully!). This ensures that the springs stay true to the brushes and don't force them to eventually wear crooked. The final result is a motor that runs like a scalded dog, doesn't get especially warm, and "could" have been built in the late '60's:



-john

[Pablo]

I need it for this project car:
http://slotblog.net/...khorse-rebuild/
Is it for sale ?

[Alchemist]

Another "jewel" of a build John!

I love the different colored specs in the paint! May I ask what was the type of paint you used please? Was it a single stage paint? Or did you spray over the base coat color?

Thank you.

Ernie

[havlicek]

Hi Ernie and thanks ,

The paint is just Rustoleum spray stuff from the hardware store. It's fairly close to the Russkit color in regular light, except it has the metallic thing happening.

-john