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John,
I may have the bracket down stairs, let me check and I will get back to you....Kim
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#3401
Kim Lander
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Posted 29 January 2012 - 08:02 PM
#3402
havlicek
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Posted 02 February 2012 - 05:34 PM
As an alternate thingie motor, I had this:
...so with some elbow grease and some body and fender work to get rid of the rust and the deep welds on the can sides, I got this:
I set it up to run inline so no bussbars. Even though the magnets in both cans are very close in strength...as are the airgaps, the Mura can just seems to make a stronger field. The same arms in the Champion and this motor run noticeably faster in this one, but I'm still favoring the Champion just because it seems a little more correct in a thingie. Anyway, I at least have a plan B.
-john
...so with some elbow grease and some body and fender work to get rid of the rust and the deep welds on the can sides, I got this:
I set it up to run inline so no bussbars. Even though the magnets in both cans are very close in strength...as are the airgaps, the Mura can just seems to make a stronger field. The same arms in the Champion and this motor run noticeably faster in this one, but I'm still favoring the Champion just because it seems a little more correct in a thingie. Anyway, I at least have a plan B.
-john
John Havlicek
#3403
havlicek
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Posted 08 February 2012 - 08:02 AM
I frequently get private messages regarding rewinding, and I thought the answer to this one would be a good one for posting publicly. So, for anyone interested...:
I don't believe you need to set up an account with them to buy, but even if you do...it's nothing to worry about. They don't send out nuisance emails and you don't have to give them credit background information or anything like that. (this paragraph is really only about ordering magnet wire from Planet Engineers.com)
As for the general technique to winding an arm. You seem to have it correct. You start with a pole by winding either clockwise or counterclockwise, however you prefer. When you get to the number of turns you want, you cross over the top of the stack and proceed to the next com tab and then down from there and do the next pole. The direction you wind will dictate the progression direction from one pole to the next. This is all for a "normal" wind. A so-called "hemi" wind will have you reverse the direction you wind relative to the progression of poles so that the last turn never crosses over the stack.
You need to pay special attention to not getting shorts on sharp edges of the stack...stacks with fiber insulators or insulation coatings will help to prevent this. Also pay attentiuon to how your winding patterns work out on the first stack and try and repeat that as closely as possible on all three stacks. This will assure that you have precisely the same length AND number of turns on each pole for the best running motor. Finally, the wire should be tensioned by you as you wind the poles...of course not enough to break the wire, but enough for tight and neat coils. With a one pound spool, you'll have plenty of wire to practice and experiment with and doing that can pay off bigtime...so wind, test, discard, wind again etc., until you start to get consistent. It looks deceptively simple, but does take some practice. However when you start to get good results and can run a motor you wound, it's a beautiful thing. Even better when your friends start to run your arms!
To test your winds for shorts and (to a certain degree) consistency, a simple multimeter will do. Carefully contact the com segments of two poles at a time working your way around the stack and look for consistent readings when the meter is set to the lowest resolution for resistance (ohms or Ω). Really, to get very accurate resistance readings for an armature, you need a meter that reads to the thousandth of an ohm (start at around $200 and up), but a common meter will at least give you tenths of an ohm readings that are fairly accurate to around .5 ohm.
Finally, the way you connect the wire at each com tab is important. The wire needs to be stripped and you can use a sharp X-acto blade and go carefully around the wire where it will be when it sets on the tab, Scrape carefully, but only enough to remove the coating so you see shiny copper, then place the wire over the tab and around and under the tabe where you can cut it off by placing the blade under the tab and pressing on the wire while gently wiggling the wire back and forth until it breaks. This will crimp the wire temporarily to the tab and should hold it there until you solder it. You can do this at every pole's tabs or only at the first/last tab, simply looping the wire over each tab. Using either method, you just need to be sure the wire is stripped where it contacts each tab. If you do this at each tab, you will have three separate pieces of wire forming the coils for the poles. If you do this at only the first/last tab, you'll have one long piece of wire that goes around the whole armature and is only cut at thye beginning/end. Either way works as well, but using the "3-pieces-of-wire" method means that is you mess up a pole, you can only redo that one pole instead of tossing all three.
The last little bit I can think of is soldering the wire at the com tabs. For light rewinds (#29/30 awg wire and thinner), you can use a 4% silver solder...sometimes using a tiny bit of "Nokorode" paste applied with a toothpick. Never use acid for electrical connections. A good solder job should actually improve the resistance readings as you get better electrical connections at the poles that by simply laying the wire on there. For mild rewinds, you should be OK with hardware store epoxy such as that sold under the Devcon label. Don't use the fast-setting stuff, and lookm for clear regular epoxy. Don't use too much, just enough to lightly cover the coils applied with a toothpick. You can then speed up the initial cure by warming the arm with a hair drier and flipping it over every 15 seconds or so...because the epoxy will get very thin and runny (a good thing...it will penetrate the coils deeper) and you don't want it running onto the commutator or off the bottom of the stack.
If you want, you can tie the arm/com before epoxying and while kevlar thread or fishing leader works best, you can use 100% cotton thread or unwaxed floss. It will absorb the epoxy well and form a durable/strong composite when cured that will help to keep the wires from moving around AND strengthen the bottom of the com at the same time. Pure cotton will burn/weaken at a high enough temperature that you have far greater problerms if that happens than what you tied the com with. By the way, any thread you use to tie the com with will act as a "wick" and draw epoxy up onto the com if you use too much. You can put a tiny bit on each com tab with a toothpick...and some will wick up the thread from the top of the stack. You don't want any epoxy getting on the com segments or even between them in the com slots. If some does get up there, clean it off carefully before the epoxy cures. You can clean out the com slots by carefully running the back of a new X-acto blade down each slot and then wiping both the blade and the com until the blade comes out clean.
Try for consistency and good-looking coils, as well as neat connections at the com. In this case, beauty can make a significant difference in how the arm actually performs. Don't get frustrated or discouraged, you WILL get better at this and it only takes practice. If winding by holding the arm in your hand, you will never be able to get the best results. If you can manage, get a winding crank and a clamp fixture for the arms you will be working with. Rick ("Rgeo") at SlotBlog still makes them. If not, you can at least use a pin vise or even a small vise to hold the arm. This will allow you to keep even tension on the wire as you wrap each pole and concentrate on consistent wind-patterns as you do so.
There are actually many many ways to wind a pole, and if you stick with it, some of the alternatives may become apparent. I've found a couple of "special patterns" that I use on some stacks with some wire gauges because theyu make for a neater/more compact coil. I don't know that I've "invented" these, but I haven't found evidence that others have used them...so I keep them to myself. Like I said...it all looks deceptively simple, but there's a lot more going on with all this than it might seem at first. Winding alone can easily become a hobby unto itself with (at least for me) as much potential for creativity and enjoyment as building and running slot cars.
regards, john
I don't believe you need to set up an account with them to buy, but even if you do...it's nothing to worry about. They don't send out nuisance emails and you don't have to give them credit background information or anything like that. (this paragraph is really only about ordering magnet wire from Planet Engineers.com)
As for the general technique to winding an arm. You seem to have it correct. You start with a pole by winding either clockwise or counterclockwise, however you prefer. When you get to the number of turns you want, you cross over the top of the stack and proceed to the next com tab and then down from there and do the next pole. The direction you wind will dictate the progression direction from one pole to the next. This is all for a "normal" wind. A so-called "hemi" wind will have you reverse the direction you wind relative to the progression of poles so that the last turn never crosses over the stack.
You need to pay special attention to not getting shorts on sharp edges of the stack...stacks with fiber insulators or insulation coatings will help to prevent this. Also pay attentiuon to how your winding patterns work out on the first stack and try and repeat that as closely as possible on all three stacks. This will assure that you have precisely the same length AND number of turns on each pole for the best running motor. Finally, the wire should be tensioned by you as you wind the poles...of course not enough to break the wire, but enough for tight and neat coils. With a one pound spool, you'll have plenty of wire to practice and experiment with and doing that can pay off bigtime...so wind, test, discard, wind again etc., until you start to get consistent. It looks deceptively simple, but does take some practice. However when you start to get good results and can run a motor you wound, it's a beautiful thing. Even better when your friends start to run your arms!
To test your winds for shorts and (to a certain degree) consistency, a simple multimeter will do. Carefully contact the com segments of two poles at a time working your way around the stack and look for consistent readings when the meter is set to the lowest resolution for resistance (ohms or Ω). Really, to get very accurate resistance readings for an armature, you need a meter that reads to the thousandth of an ohm (start at around $200 and up), but a common meter will at least give you tenths of an ohm readings that are fairly accurate to around .5 ohm.
Finally, the way you connect the wire at each com tab is important. The wire needs to be stripped and you can use a sharp X-acto blade and go carefully around the wire where it will be when it sets on the tab, Scrape carefully, but only enough to remove the coating so you see shiny copper, then place the wire over the tab and around and under the tabe where you can cut it off by placing the blade under the tab and pressing on the wire while gently wiggling the wire back and forth until it breaks. This will crimp the wire temporarily to the tab and should hold it there until you solder it. You can do this at every pole's tabs or only at the first/last tab, simply looping the wire over each tab. Using either method, you just need to be sure the wire is stripped where it contacts each tab. If you do this at each tab, you will have three separate pieces of wire forming the coils for the poles. If you do this at only the first/last tab, you'll have one long piece of wire that goes around the whole armature and is only cut at thye beginning/end. Either way works as well, but using the "3-pieces-of-wire" method means that is you mess up a pole, you can only redo that one pole instead of tossing all three.
The last little bit I can think of is soldering the wire at the com tabs. For light rewinds (#29/30 awg wire and thinner), you can use a 4% silver solder...sometimes using a tiny bit of "Nokorode" paste applied with a toothpick. Never use acid for electrical connections. A good solder job should actually improve the resistance readings as you get better electrical connections at the poles that by simply laying the wire on there. For mild rewinds, you should be OK with hardware store epoxy such as that sold under the Devcon label. Don't use the fast-setting stuff, and lookm for clear regular epoxy. Don't use too much, just enough to lightly cover the coils applied with a toothpick. You can then speed up the initial cure by warming the arm with a hair drier and flipping it over every 15 seconds or so...because the epoxy will get very thin and runny (a good thing...it will penetrate the coils deeper) and you don't want it running onto the commutator or off the bottom of the stack.
If you want, you can tie the arm/com before epoxying and while kevlar thread or fishing leader works best, you can use 100% cotton thread or unwaxed floss. It will absorb the epoxy well and form a durable/strong composite when cured that will help to keep the wires from moving around AND strengthen the bottom of the com at the same time. Pure cotton will burn/weaken at a high enough temperature that you have far greater problerms if that happens than what you tied the com with. By the way, any thread you use to tie the com with will act as a "wick" and draw epoxy up onto the com if you use too much. You can put a tiny bit on each com tab with a toothpick...and some will wick up the thread from the top of the stack. You don't want any epoxy getting on the com segments or even between them in the com slots. If some does get up there, clean it off carefully before the epoxy cures. You can clean out the com slots by carefully running the back of a new X-acto blade down each slot and then wiping both the blade and the com until the blade comes out clean.
Try for consistency and good-looking coils, as well as neat connections at the com. In this case, beauty can make a significant difference in how the arm actually performs. Don't get frustrated or discouraged, you WILL get better at this and it only takes practice. If winding by holding the arm in your hand, you will never be able to get the best results. If you can manage, get a winding crank and a clamp fixture for the arms you will be working with. Rick ("Rgeo") at SlotBlog still makes them. If not, you can at least use a pin vise or even a small vise to hold the arm. This will allow you to keep even tension on the wire as you wrap each pole and concentrate on consistent wind-patterns as you do so.
There are actually many many ways to wind a pole, and if you stick with it, some of the alternatives may become apparent. I've found a couple of "special patterns" that I use on some stacks with some wire gauges because theyu make for a neater/more compact coil. I don't know that I've "invented" these, but I haven't found evidence that others have used them...so I keep them to myself. Like I said...it all looks deceptively simple, but there's a lot more going on with all this than it might seem at first. Winding alone can easily become a hobby unto itself with (at least for me) as much potential for creativity and enjoyment as building and running slot cars.
regards, john
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John Havlicek
#3404
Pablo
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Posted 08 February 2012 - 06:30 PM
Thanks for posting that, John, I'm going to print it out and put it in my "Motors" folder
I appreciate it !!!
I appreciate it !!!
Paul Wolcott
#3405
havlicek
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Posted 08 February 2012 - 06:50 PM
You got it Pablo 
I thought it would be good to get all the basics in a single message, butI just realized I forgot to at least touch on com timing.
-john
I thought it would be good to get all the basics in a single message, butI just realized I forgot to at least touch on com timing. -john
John Havlicek
#3406
GearBear
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Posted 08 February 2012 - 07:27 PM
BTW: If you wanted to, you could make a drying tool out of a Rotisserie motor and a piece of foam with a dowel sanded square similar to one of these.
The slow rotation of the Rotisserie motor will keep the epoxy from pooling and should result in a more evenly balanced arm. I've not tried this, but I did make one for doing fly rods. It works really well on them to level out the epoxy on the winds.
The slow rotation of the Rotisserie motor will keep the epoxy from pooling and should result in a more evenly balanced arm. I've not tried this, but I did make one for doing fly rods. It works really well on them to level out the epoxy on the winds.
Gary Johnson
#3407
havlicek
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Posted 08 February 2012 - 08:59 PM
BTW: If you wanted to, you could make a drying tool out of a Rotisserie motor and a piece of foam with a dowel sanded square similar to one of these.
The slow rotation of the Rotisserie motor will keep the epoxy from pooling and should result in a more evenly balanced arm. I've not tried this, but I did make one for doing fly rods. It works really well on them to level out the epoxy on the winds.
Yep, and a very good idea. Since I use a toaster oven for speed-curing the epoxy, I'd have to rig something that could work with that, so I just sit there and do the flip every few seconds for about 10 minutes until it's cured enough to not run anymore.
John Havlicek
#3408
GearBear
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Posted 08 February 2012 - 09:17 PM
Well, then you need one of the Ronco Rotisserie Ovens... Set it and Forget it! hehehehe
Set it and Forget it! hehehehe
Gary Johnson
#3409
havlicek
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Posted 09 February 2012 - 06:20 AM
-john
John Havlicek
#3410
Horsepower
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Posted 19 February 2012 - 06:25 PM
I just LOVE that HAMMERED paint! 
Gary Stelter
My life fades, the vison dims. All that remains are memories... from The Road Warrior
My life fades, the vison dims. All that remains are memories... from The Road Warrior
#3411
Russell
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Posted 22 February 2012 - 03:08 PM
Havlicek, I have been reading off and on tring to keep up. I am posting pictures of a 36d motor I built for a series where the rule is run what you brung as long as it is a 36d arm and can. you answered some qeustions for me in the past and going to see it you will do it again.I wound an arm 32 at 108 turn trued the come and the stakes. I used speedfx mags and cut the tar out of the can for air and to see other drivers look like what in the crap...LOL. The power on the track is bulldog 14.1 Hillclimd and a small oval.
If you would look at the pictures and tell me what you would have done and what I did wrong. Your opinion on how this might work. This is the first motor I finished from wounding on up. Fun but a lot of patience. And one big question is setting the timing, how do i determain where to start it and how. I set this on I feel nuatral and as I turn the hood the rpm's pick up big time,so this motor could have started with more timing. Thanks for any help. I know its sloppy but don't have the skill you and others have. ya'll do a killer job.
If you would look at the pictures and tell me what you would have done and what I did wrong. Your opinion on how this might work. This is the first motor I finished from wounding on up. Fun but a lot of patience. And one big question is setting the timing, how do i determain where to start it and how. I set this on I feel nuatral and as I turn the hood the rpm's pick up big time,so this motor could have started with more timing. Thanks for any help. I know its sloppy but don't have the skill you and others have. ya'll do a killer job.
Attached Images
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Russell Dobbs
#3412
havlicek
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Posted 22 February 2012 - 05:29 PM
Hi Russell,
From the looks of it, you did an excellent job of winding, nice and neat and it all looks tight on there...congrats!
I can see you really DID cut the heck out of that can...you created a gigantic strap motor The Speed FX mags are shaped for a (nominal) .510" arm diameter, so they're not optimal for the much larger 36D arm...but they're much more powerful than the Mabuchi mags (well...anything is more powerful than those!) and probably more powerful than Arcos, so they might just work out OK. It would be tough to get a really tight airgap though since the tips of the magnets will wind up much closer to the stack than the center of the arc. I really couldn't say how they'll work, but I have a hunch they'll be OK.
Honestly, I can't see anything at all you've done wrong...only that you did what looks like an excellent job. I can't tell if you epoxied the arm, but even a #32 wind could use a little insurance against the coils moving around. Even some lacquer on there would be a lightweight and sufficiently strong way to "glue it all together". The Mabuchi com should be absolutely fine for that wind too, a well as soldering the tabs. The only other things I would do would be to at least static balance the arm, and I usually true the end of the com as well as the tail spacer...VERY lightly on the com when it's a Mabuchi com The balancing is actually pretty significant in making the motor run well, and if you don't want to static balance it, send it out to be dynamically balanced as that will usually be much better still. It looks like the arm is definitely worth it! Have you metered the arm? Even a regular el cheapo multimeter (as long as you're dealing with relatively high resistances) can help you predict how the motor will run and a #32 wind on such a large arm should be (I guess) around an ohm...give or take. What you really want more than any particular resistance is very close to the same on all three poles.
Really, I wouldn't critique such a nice looking job, after all...who the heck am I? 108 turns of 32 is probably around what I'd put on a 16D, since I routinely do 80-ish turns of #31 on a 16D...so the motor might run a bit warm (or not!?). You really did a nice job and also created a pretty unique motor!
From what I can see, the com tabs appear to be centered in the pole gap. If so, that would produce a roughly "neutral timed motor" and it should spin about the same in either direction, as well as have good brakes and run cooler. Using your bottom picture as a guide (where you're balancing the arm on it's tail), if you set the com tab more to the right of the gap, the motor will spin faster in that direction but I wouldn't go past 15 degrees or so with the big "Buchi" for most mild winds...you won't gain "that" much and anyway, you have a hand built motor there you can sign...what could be better than that? (besides a Philly Cheesesteak with onions)
Oh I don't know about that at all, I think you pretty much banged it out of the park right out of the locker room
-john
From the looks of it, you did an excellent job of winding, nice and neat and it all looks tight on there...congrats!
I used speedfx mags and cut the tar out of the can for air and to see other drivers look like what in the crap...LOL. The power on the track is bulldog 14.1 Hillclimd and a small oval.
I can see you really DID cut the heck out of that can...you created a gigantic strap motor
The Speed FX mags are shaped for a (nominal) .510" arm diameter, so they're not optimal for the much larger 36D arm...but they're much more powerful than the Mabuchi mags (well...anything is more powerful than those!) and probably more powerful than Arcos, so they might just work out OK. It would be tough to get a really tight airgap though since the tips of the magnets will wind up much closer to the stack than the center of the arc. I really couldn't say how they'll work, but I have a hunch they'll be OK.If you would look at the pictures and tell me what you would have done and what I did wrong. Your opinion on how this might work. This is the first motor I finished from wounding on up.
Honestly, I can't see anything at all you've done wrong...only that you did what looks like an excellent job. I can't tell if you epoxied the arm, but even a #32 wind could use a little insurance against the coils moving around. Even some lacquer on there would be a lightweight and sufficiently strong way to "glue it all together". The Mabuchi com should be absolutely fine for that wind too, a well as soldering the tabs. The only other things I would do would be to at least static balance the arm, and I usually true the end of the com as well as the tail spacer...VERY lightly on the com when it's a Mabuchi com
The balancing is actually pretty significant in making the motor run well, and if you don't want to static balance it, send it out to be dynamically balanced as that will usually be much better still. It looks like the arm is definitely worth it! Have you metered the arm? Even a regular el cheapo multimeter (as long as you're dealing with relatively high resistances) can help you predict how the motor will run and a #32 wind on such a large arm should be (I guess) around an ohm...give or take. What you really want more than any particular resistance is very close to the same on all three poles.Really, I wouldn't critique such a nice looking job, after all...who the heck am I? 108 turns of 32 is probably around what I'd put on a 16D, since I routinely do 80-ish turns of #31 on a 16D...so the motor might run a bit warm (or not!?). You really did a nice job and also created a pretty unique motor!
And one big question is setting the timing, how do i determain where to start it and how. I set this on I feel nuatral and as I turn the hood the rpm's pick up big time,so this motor could have started with more timing.
From what I can see, the com tabs appear to be centered in the pole gap. If so, that would produce a roughly "neutral timed motor" and it should spin about the same in either direction, as well as have good brakes and run cooler. Using your bottom picture as a guide (where you're balancing the arm on it's tail), if you set the com tab more to the right of the gap, the motor will spin faster in that direction but I wouldn't go past 15 degrees or so with the big "Buchi" for most mild winds...you won't gain "that" much and anyway, you have a hand built motor there you can sign...what could be better than that? (besides a Philly Cheesesteak with onions)
Thanks for any help. I know its sloppy but don't have the skill you and others have. ya'll do a killer job
Oh I don't know about that at all, I think you pretty much banged it out of the park right out of the locker room
-john
John Havlicek
#3413
Jairus
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Posted 22 February 2012 - 06:07 PM
Holy cow John! That Champion/Mura motor is the bees knees! I love it and see no reason why it would not make a perfect motor for the next proxy. NOW, build a car and test it out!
P.S. I love the motor you built for my entry!
P.S. I love the motor you built for my entry!
Jairus H Watson - Artist
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Check out some of the cool stuff on my Fotki!
#3414
Bill from NH
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Posted 22 February 2012 - 06:35 PM
Russell, that's a very interesting motor. It sure sets the mind in motion. Is the bottom of that 36D can cut away similar to the top? What did you use to glue in the SpeedFX magnets? I wonder if the magnet locations could be moved around to retime that arm?
Bill Fernald
I intend to live forever! So far, so good.
I intend to live forever! So far, so good.
#3415
boxerdog
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Posted 22 February 2012 - 07:19 PM
Looks like he timed it by rotating the endbell?? Pretty nice motor, I think!
David Cummerow
#3416
havlicek
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Posted 23 February 2012 - 06:59 AM
Holy cow John! That Champion/Mura motor is the bees knees! I love it and see no reason why it would not make a perfect motor for the next proxy. NOW, build a car and test it out!
P.S. I love the motor you built for my entry!
Thanks very much Jairus
I'm still going to wait around to see some of the other builds to figure out which way I might go. I haven't even really settled on a body.-john
John Havlicek
#3417
Russell
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Posted 23 February 2012 - 11:29 AM
Thanks Havlicek for the kind words.I was shocked to see that the speedfx mags were pretty close and when I sat one on the arm to see.There was very little difference so thats why i decided to try them.I did set the timing in the center and thats what I noticed,it will run in either direction,but pulls more amps onway over the other.This has turned out to be a little on the fun side,slowing down from big compitition races to just playing.Now this is just a test motor,seeing what works and what does not. I was playing with the timimg the other night, my hands slipped move the endbell the arm hit one of the mags a mags went flying, busted the tar out of that mag. Thats why I like using spare parts. I wound have been pissed if I had to order the magnets.LOL Bill,Yes, it is cut out close to the top,Just got the idea off a BOW can.The magnets were just super clued in then but will be jbwelded in when I get the arm where i want it.They could be moved and that I was tring.They are small enough to play with,the c can mags are to small, but the d cans are wht I used.I did all my timing with the end bell. I cut the can for air just to see if I could get the air gap closer and tested last night on the temps. Ran for 5min. at 8 on powersupply and the com started at 85 degrees and at the end of the 5 minutes the com was 83.5 degrees and the stacks were 84. So I guess it worked.I don't know if it matters but I have always payed attention to temps,cause some slow down when they get hot.(ya'll know that lol) Sorry about all this running together, I hit edit and save changes and it ran it all together. Don't know how to fix it.
Russell Dobbs
#3418
havlicek
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OCD Rewinder
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- Location:NY
Posted 29 February 2012 - 05:45 PM
Not much going on in "motor land" so here's a little "slot-porn" for you gearheads. I screwed up on some motors for Chris Walker when I did one of his as end bell drive, when it should have been can drive...OOPS! So I did him a long stack out of a couple of Bugenis short (.300") stacks pressed onto a new drill blank shaft. The wind is a 55T/#29, using my "special pattern" because it worked out well for this wind on this lam, producing nice tight/compact coils. Installed back in it's Mabuchi FT16D setup with better-but-not-crazy (maybe about the same as Arcos) magnets, the motor sounds excellent. It pulls about 1.3 amps at 6V, and after running at that voltage for 5 minutes, the motor was just a little warm...nice!
-john
-john
- MarcusPHagen likes this
John Havlicek
#3419
Jairus
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Body Painter Extraordinaire
- Gender:Male
- Location:Salem, OR
Posted 29 February 2012 - 08:36 PM
Mmmmm nummy!
Jairus H Watson - Artist
Need something painted, soldered, carved, or killed? - jairuswtsn@aol.com
www.slotcarsmag.com
www.jairuswatson.net
http://www.ratholecustoms.com
Check out some of the cool stuff on my Fotki!
#3420
Alchemist
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Posting Leader
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Posted 01 March 2012 - 05:12 PM
Wow John!
Your hand winds always look as though it was done by machine - amazing!
Ernie
Your hand winds always look as though it was done by machine - amazing!
Ernie
Ernie Layacan
#3421
havlicek
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OCD Rewinder
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Posted 02 March 2012 - 07:10 AM
Thanks guys...a little patience and perseverence ("wax on/wax off") helps. This particular wind (55T/#29) on this blank with this pattern just happens to be a "natural" fit, and I always look for that sorta thing when I have a bunch to do. It's more effort to start out, but makes for a nicer arm and less time in the long run. In this case, I spent the time planning even though it was only a single arm and it still works out, because I'll remember what I did and use the same pattern on this blank in the future. I do a lot of 55T/#29 winds, so this will come up again.
-john
-john
John Havlicek
#3422
Coal Train
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- 89 posts Joined: 02-March 09
Backmarker
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- Location:Penrith Slot Car and Hobby Center
Posted 02 March 2012 - 01:50 PM
I have tinkered with winding arms and have wondered what is the diference between " bell drive and can drive "
can you elaborate on the differences please.
can you elaborate on the differences please.
Robert Keough
Pro motor and car builder
Australian AA/FC quickest car
Pro motor and car builder
Australian AA/FC quickest car
#3423
havlicek
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OCD Rewinder
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Posted 02 March 2012 - 02:00 PM
I have tinkered with winding arms and have wondered what is the diference between " bell drive and can drive "
can you elaborate on the differences please.
Hi Robert,
There really isn't any difference. End bell drive just has the extra length of the shaft on the endbell side for mounting the pinion gear. Can drive will have that extra shaft length on the can end. With an inline car, you just flip the position of the pinion gear so the arm is turning in the proper direction for it's timing advance. With sidewinder/anglewinder cars, the drive end of the motor is more important because you could have a motor timed to run the "wrong way" for it's application (can or endbell drive). In either case, you can wind the arm which ever way you prefer (clockwise or counterclockwise, regular or hemi wind) as long as you time the com for the arm to rotate in the proper direction. You can also press many shafts to have enough for either can or endbell drive. Sometimes, a can drive motor can use extra shaft length on the end bell side for one of those nifty com coolers. You could even try a "posi" rear end on a slot car by using two pinions and two spur gears if the shaft was long enough.
-john
John Havlicek
#3424
Coal Train
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Backmarker
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Posted 03 March 2012 - 05:09 PM
I noticed the threads on glue , have you tryed shelac ?
Robert Keough
Pro motor and car builder
Australian AA/FC quickest car
Pro motor and car builder
Australian AA/FC quickest car
#3425
havlicek
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OCD Rewinder
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Posted 03 March 2012 - 05:35 PM
Shellac was one of the original materials used for keeping the coils together and something that looks like a "shellac" still seems to be used on some lower arms today. It has nowhere near the heat tolerance nor the strength required for most modern arms.
Either back then or now, I've tried most readily available and commonly used things for all this stuff.
-john
have you tryed shelac ?
Either back then or now, I've tried most readily available and commonly used things for all this stuff.
-john
John Havlicek
