3573 replies to this topic

[Maximo]

Jeff,

That stuff is REHco I believe.

-Max

[havlicek]

Pretty sure that Max is correct that the bags marked "Motors Etc." are repackaged/resold by Rehco Jeff. Neat stuff.

-john

[Champion 507]

GULP, DROOL, SLOBBER

Them's nice parts dood. I've been unsucessful for the last 10 years to get any track in this area to hook up with REH.

[Bill from NH]

REHCO is one of the few non-computerized companies out there. Last I knew, when you ordered something from them, they couldn't tell you whether an item was in-stock or how many units they might have. I've heard from several people it's a great place to visit & buy stuff off-the-cuff. Anyone know how long REH has actually been in business? I first heard of them in 1969 so it's more than 40 yr.

[bradblohm]

Hello everyone,

Professormotor (Andy Smith) has some of the 26D cans and magnets but I'm not sure they're on his website.

REH (Robert Haines (sp?!?)) has been around since the late '60s. He was buying when everyone was dumping.

[havlicek]

Just finished-off the first 26D for the Blogger with all the kewl vintage Champion stuff. I had to change the shaft as the one on the arm was a little tweaked...and had a really rough finish that would have made static balancing very difficult. I used a drill blank for the shaft and it's really the way to go on these things when you're going to swap the shaft. I left it long so the motor can go either can or endbell drive. The wind is a #27 @.3 ohm...very smooth, revs up fast and draws around 1.25 amps no load.



The ball bearing Champion can was in pristine condition and all it needed was a bit of polishing and it came right to life. The Champion endbell is always a step-up on these things having more ventilation space and a large bushing. Pentroof brush carriers, shunted brushes and post protectors round off the package. I haven't done so many 26Ds so far, but this has got to be one of the nicest so far.



-john

[Slotgeezer]

Now, THAT'S a 26D motor!!!

Great job, John.... Love the "look" of those #27 windings...

Take care.....


Jeff Easterly

[Horsepower]

John, how do you push those new drill blanks in without the poles falling apart?

[havlicek]

Thanks Jeff...it is a sweet 26D, I almot hate to send it out

John, how do you push those new drill blanks in without the poles falling apart?

Hi Gary...spoken like a man that's been there Sometimes I'll put a stripe of epoxy on the outside of the stacks before I push out the old shaft. Sometimes I just reassemble the stack. The epoxy works pretty well (although sometimes not perfectly) and it comes off when I polish the stack anyway.

-john

[havlicek]

#2 out of four for a Blogger. This one's another Champion 26D, but on the milder side. A #29 wind that draws just a bit over 1 amp and meters around .4 ohm


The completed motor sounds excellent. Smooth and strong and it should be a cool runner.


-john

[Slotgeezer]

Man, that thing sure doesn't have much wire on it, compared to a "stock" Mabuchi blue-wire arm, eh??

Another wonderful 26D, John... I hope these are going to go into a Dynamic CanAm scratchbuilt, or a brass & wire thingie... Just seems appropriate, no??

Take care, buddy... Found a roll of old-school Belden #26, headed your way! LOL!


Jeff Easterly

[Mr Dynamic]

Hay John- Those arms are Zombie-licious!!
Captn Zombie - outre'

[havlicek]

Hi Jeff,

Man, that thing sure doesn't have much wire on it, compared to a "stock" Mabuchi blue-wire arm, eh??

10-4 Jeff. Part of the illusion is in getting the wire on there as neat as possible. It makes things sit "tighter" and look a bit more compact, but I'm also convinced that neater coils must produce a better field when energized. I'm guessing here but the physics seems to make sense...to me anyway The other part of the illusion is that when you don't use the big/thick Champion insulators, you actually wind up with extra room on the top and bottom of the stack. Since the insulators are plastic/non-magnetic, they aren't missed (except in so far as you have to be more careful about shorts)...but you wind up with an effectively shorter stack and less wire for the same number of turns. Even so, the arm is on the mild side and (I think) probably not what would have been considered "hot" at all for the period, but it sure runs nice.

Another wonderful 26D, John... I hope these are going to go into a Dynamic CanAm scratchbuilt, or a brass & wire thingie... Just seems appropriate, no??

Absolutely Jeff! I don't know what application he has in mind for these four motors, but I'm sure all of them will be for period cars. I love just the idea that some of my motors will be doing duty in some classic cars!

Hay John- Those arms are Zombie-licious!!
Captn Zombie - outre'

Hey there Cap'n...thanks mucho! Since they're made from decades-old parts that have been "resurrected"...the motors themselves are kinda like "zombies".

-john

[Slotgeezer]

Hi, John...

I'd have to agree, on your observation about straight-wound arms vs. scatter-wound arms... Back when my Dad & I built-up Pro 12 cars w/ World 12 chassis & ball-bearing equipped C-can X-12 motors, the CNC computer-wound armatures were always faster than scatter-wound machine-wound arms... We'd look thru the available arms, & try to pick the ones w/ the best-looking windings & least amount of balancing marks, thinking that, all other things being equal, the less-marks indicated a better initial in-balance condition caused by the length of wire per-pole being closer to being equal per-pole... Seemed to work out for us, as the RJR, ProSlot, Champion, & Koford .513" dia. arms I have are all pretty quick...

It still amazes me that a CNC machine can wind such a tight arm... Of course, you've moved that equation up one level, by doing hand-wound arms that rival any of the Thorp, Zimmerman, Pooch, or Checkpoint arms from the "glory yrs." of the 70's... The in-balance condition of a straight-wound arm certainly helps the performance, as most of the scatter-wound period Mura X-12's I own are a bit slower than the tightly-wound CNC ones...

Always enjoy looking at a new post on this thread... I just love looking at the finished armatures, it brings back so many memories of those armatures I'd see "in the counter", from the "custom rewinders" at my local slot car raceway... It's like being 16, all over again! LOL! ... Thanks, buddy!


Jeff Easterly

[tonyp]

The neater the coils the more equal the wire length is, the better the arm runs...

[Maximo]

John,

Nice work! I have a 26D with your name on it for future magic touch work!

-Max

[havlicek]

I just love looking at the finished armatures, it brings back so many memories of those armatures I'd see "in the counter", from the "custom rewinders" at my local slot car raceway... It's like being 16, all over again! LOL! ... Thanks, buddy!

Ha! Thanks Jeff...I'm feeling a little like 16 all over again over here myself

The neater the coils the more equal the wire length is, the better the arm runs...

Of course you're right Tony. I was also thinking that since each coil is an electromagnet all by itself...they might produce a tighter/more focused field if they're all lined up. Sometimes I overthink stuff.

Nice work! I have a 26D with your name on it for future magic touch work!

Very cool David. Both of the above winds seem like good candidates right now. Not too krazee

-john

[havlicek]

I finished-off #3 of the four motors of this group. The last two are 16Ds and he wants one "spicy" and one milder. So for the "spicy" one I decided to do something different and went for a double wound #29. The arm blank was a lovely old Mura .007 to which I added a Mura com (the one supplied looked dicey so I trashed it). It's awfully tough to keep the coils neat on doubles, but I did my best and figure it came out pretty nice. The arm meters around .2 to .3 ohm and draws 2.4 amps so it's right at the edge of the Mabuchi comfort zone ...but man...it sings like Roy Orbison!!!!



For the hotter 16D, the blogger sent me some Tradeship Dynomag V magnets I hadn't seen before. While I'm sure they're nothing new to the vintage experts, they're thicker and stronger than the Tradeship magnets I've used in the past...measuring above 800 on my meter.



Here's the completed motor. It also got the ball bearing can mod, a set of post protectors that just got here today and shunted brushes. I'm sure this one will be a real "mover", but I always worry a little about hotter Mabuchis "Use the force wisely Luke"



-john

[tonyp]

John, here is something to think about. On the RC motors you can tell a difference in performance if the pattern keeps the wire to the inside or outside of the stack.

[Maximo]

Now that's super nice, wish it was mine!

-Max Motori

[havlicek]

John, here is something to think about. On the RC motors you can tell a difference in performance if the pattern keeps the wire to the inside or outside of the stack.

...funny you should mention that Tony! That's another one of those things I think about because it "seems" like it might matter. That's very cool to hear.

Now that's super nice, wish it was mine!

...my god David, you have a lot of NICE motors as it is!

-john

[Champion 507]

Nice mills dood! I always liked term "mill".

[havlicek]

Thanks Doug. Three down, one to go and then I have a pile of others waiting. Tough to get through these things working in my "spare time" (as if there were such a thing as "spare time"). Still, I see improvements every time I do a motor whether it's in technique or just being more efficient. I guess I'll never get "there"...just hope to keep heading in "that" direction. On these motors, double winds are a bit of a PITA but cool to do. I understand that they don't really do anything that their single wind relatives do...or so I'm told...but they are still a nice reminder of those days.

-john

[Champion 507]

Yeah, I remember seeing triple silver #32 Mura arms for sale at the local track back in the day. Don't remember if they ever won any races but it would be nice to have one today as a keepsake from days of old.

[havlicek]

Finished off #4 of a group of 4 motors for a blogger. This one was to be milder of the two FT16Ds. Of course, going all the way "mild" doesn't make much sense so I did a wind I got from Tony P (at least I think it was from Tony)...55 turns of #29 awg with a healthy advance. The blank was a Champion piece and the shaft wasn't very good, so I replaced it with a 2mm drill blank, but I kept the Champion com and set it up so it can go either can or endbell drive. I also tossed the clear Champion insulators and used regular fibre ones. The arm measures .5 ohm and draws around 1.5 amps, sounding super and I have no doubt it will be a strong/reliable runner.


The setup is a stock Champion endbell with post protectors and 36D springs on a minty Champion can and even with the stock magnets it runs sweet. No doubt there's more potential in this motor with even more upgrades, but there's something cool about it as-is. As a motor for a period car, everything about the motor is from the time (well...except for the epoxy and magnet wire). This would make a great thingie or jaildoor power plant.



(for the blogger) All four motors go out in tomorrow's mail.

-john