3573 replies to this topic

[BoomerDog]

Anyone remember the circular Globe motors? Tons of RPM's and I think they were 5 or 6 poles or something ridiculous like that....a motor only the "grownups" could afford back when I was a kid..

[havlicek]

Anyone remember the circular Globe motors?

...yeah Steve, only from the "other side of the glasss" On a paper boy's pay I was lucky to buy a Mabuchi every so often.

-john

[Alchemist]

As usual - those are real nice arms John!

question please?? Did you use an electric engraving tool to enscribe your logo onto the arm? Just curious because it is exceptionally clean! Whenever I use my engraver it's bouncing all over the place and makes my initials look like chinese characters - LOL!!!!

John,

What are your thoughts please, of "rewinding" a Globe motor performancewise, compared to the Mura motors. From what I remember, the Globe motor I had in one of my slot cars back in the late 60's didn't seem to wind up as fast as my Mura motors. I don't remember if it was geared properly though?!

Thanks John!

Ernie

[havlicek]

Hi Ernie and happy new year. I use a small diamond point in my Dremel tool to do the engraving. It can also jump around, but not so bad on the .007" blankls as they are smoother. I've never seen the inside of a Globe and so have no idea what's in there All I can say is that the Champions and Muras are much better for rewinding...even the Mabuchis can be great if you're careful. Maybe someone else who's rewound a Globe (?) can chime in with more info.

-john

[Bill from NH]

Ernie, to keep your engraver from jumping all over the place, hold it by the engraving point rather than by its body. Also, if it's a unit with variable speed, like the Dremel engraver, turn the vibration down low.

[Alchemist]

Thank you for the tips Bill! I'll give it a try the next time I use the engraver.

Ernie

[don.siegel]

Anyone remember the circular Globe motors? Tons of RPM's and I think they were 5 or 6 poles or something ridiculous like that....a motor only the "grownups" could afford back when I was a kid..

The Globe SS91 Screamer was a 5-pole motor with sealed ball bearings and shunted brushes and a price tag of $14.95 - in 1964! It was rated at 40,000 rpm, and I have now accumulated about 5 of these motors, and assuming my tach is correct, they are winding from 36 to 45K. Most of these don't have any brakes and need to be geared about 5:1...

You're right about this being an "adult's" motor. At the time, who could even imagine buying one of these on an allowance? I never saw one, but still remember hearing one that was on our local dragstrip, probably in about 1965.... what a sound! But a fair number must have been sold to adults who absolutely had to have the best motor on the market, judging by how many pop up on ebay. They're pretty sturdy motors too, real industrial/aerospace grade...

Globe (or its new Versitec division) also issued the SS101 in 1967, and that was a more modern, flatter, cheaper motor, at $9.95, with rpm rating of 53,000. I had one of these at the time, and it seemed very fast at first. But as it got a bit older and the rewinds got hotter it seemed to slow down, so I took it apart, thinking to rewind it or something - and then I looked at the 5-pole arm (still pretty much the same as on the SS91, but hotter), and there it stayed for all eternity. I still have the ball bearings for some reason...

Don

[havlicek]

Thanks for that info Don. $14.95 in 1964 for the Globe sure accounts for the scarcity.

-john

[BoomerDog]

The Globe's sure did make a sweet sound.....and I loved the "other side of the glass" comment, John.

All RPM's and no brakes with silicone tires on smooth tracks AND A THUMB DEPRESSOR COX CONTROLLER!!! How the heck did we even get the cars around the track then??????

[Prof. Fate]

Hi

In the day, I was building for adults from spring of 64. And eventually, a couple had me rewind these for them.

The engraving. In the day, I just used my memory AND building motors all the time I could glance at an arm and know what was there. I am out of practice these days! As someone said, I don't remember people engraving the arms back then.

In the 90s, I did a bit of motor work for the locals for some unlimited races locals. too modern.

The 28 wind was popular pre good endbells as being about the upper limit that you could make live through the whole race!

When we were starting NCC/USRA in 68 the thinking went this way. Good "unmeltable" endbells had just resulted in motor prices soaring. No more dynarewinds for a buck and a half! So, the structure was that novices would do 12 buck rtrs in "Group 12". Group 20 would be the mid step to actual pro/Group 7 racing. As the Group 20 motor, a 27 was "last year's Hot arm, but now people were running 24s it was thought to be a mid level arm.

But the thought was that after a bit you would transition to "real" cars. Obviously, it didn't work that way. The Mura 20 was a good motor, but champion's spec chassis was not successful.

Fate

[BoomerDog]

I'd like to pose this question to all who have been reading and learning from this great thread. It seems that although the winds are important to the motor's performance, much has been mentioned about the comms and how they seem to make or the wind being put on the arm. Would it be safe to say that the comm is the weakest link in equation?

I'm asking this specifically because of all the arm failures my group of racers experience in the Chinese 16D - S16D flexi class. American arms hold up much, much better and we haven't had a failure yet since switching to them. The Chinese arms still seem to outperform the American arms, but the failure rate is astronomical. Is it the comm and the tranfer of heat to the arm that makes them fail?

Thanks everyone and I look forward to hearing your comments.

[Bill from NH]

Steve, I've never seen a Chinese arm out perform the American-wound ones. What track do you run on & what class of arms are you running & comparing? I believe the use of higher quality materials & better workmanship make the American ones far superior. Back when we had only Chinese 16D arms to run (mid-90s), the ones I recall blowing, threw winds rather had blown comms. I wouldn't say they were comm failures, more like poor quality control. I still have a few Chinese arms, but today, I wouldn't run one unless it was a class where it was the only thing legal to run. Since your group is experiencing an astronomical failure rate, I'd check to see if gearing wasn't the issue.

[BoomerDog]

Thanks, Bill. I can tell you that we're running ProSlot 16D Chinese arms. All the gang is cranking the timing up to about 42 degrees and then backing that off with the endbell. Cheetah 7 Flexi chassis and GTP bodies on a King. Gearing is anywhere between 11/36 to 13/37. The track record (with breakout removed) is 4.28 and that's with a Chinese arm. They DO make some heat which is why I was theorizing that the comm was holding too much and insulation is melting off thus shorting the motor out in a glorious puff of super glue smoke!

It usually brings cheers.....

[Noose]

I have run this class with Steve. Did 3 races on a Chinese arm motor and it's fine. The last one I ran in though I got killed by an American Arm version and mine hasn't slowed at all. Don't remember what mine is geared right now but can check tonight. I have seen one guy in particular there blow one at every race which leads me to think it may be more of a set-up problem then the motor.

[Bill from NH]

Where are you running these motors Steve? The batches of SpeedFX motors starting about 6 mo. ago, has been extremely unreliable due to arms blowing up because of poor epoxy jobs. The scale touring series in New England, the NECC, stopped using the SpeedFX as a handout motor just because of this problem. Officials of this series first went to Dan Debella because of this problem, received no satisfaction, so they switched motors. What they chose is not quite as fast as a SpeedFX were but they more than make up for it when it comes to reliability. Steve, if you want to see a really fast 16D, build yourself a 16D using one of the "fat" American arms by RJR, Viper, Proslot, or BOW.

[havlicek]

...speaking of Steve, this one's for him I assembled an arm blank out of some pieces of short X-12 stacks (actually one stack and a piece on either end) to come up with a .480" stack of .007" lams...the thick old ones. I slapped all that onto a new drill blank shaft and did another of those 38T/#27 winds:


I cleaned up some old Mura parts (endbell hardware, can, magnets) and zapped the setup and it reads somewhere around 1170 on my meter now which is nice and healthy. I grooved the hoods for shunts, but I don't really think the motors needs them. In any case, it's there if he decides to install them anyway. After assembling it all, it looks like this:



After a very quick break-in it sounds aces I hope you enjoy it Steve.

-john

[BoomerDog]

John -

Absolutely stunning!!! Can't wait...... You are an artist and a true gentleman. It's my pleasure to know you.

Noose, can we run these in something????

[havlicek]

You're quite welcome Steve, thank you too

Noose, can we run these in something????

...well, I'm not Noose but of course you can run them in something. You get a bunch of brass and piano wire and...

-john

[BoomerDog]

Thanks, Bill,

I've often thought that there was a bad bunch of arms coming out, but never had it confirmed. And no changes are being made...???

I actually did set up a "fat boy" American arm and it is quite fast....but, nothing heads above the Chinese arm. In fact, almost everyone has made the change to the American arms just so they can finish a race.....go figure....


Noose - when are you coming back to run another Thursday night?

[BoomerDog]

John -

Well, I've got some piles of brass and piano wire..... Oh, and some bad soldering habits.... but, i do get an "A" for effort....tada

[Noose]

Those beauties John made can be run in something but nothing Retro wise.

Plate is full painting and getting stuff ready for other retro races Steve. Believe me, I wish I could get down there. I have cars for all the classes all ready.

[BoomerDog]

Noose -

We miss you, buddy...Good luck at Dom's and I'll see you on the 24th at Slot Spot.

[John Schoen]

My SCX Little Terror arrived this week; it is a gem. Ed advised me to run it in for five minutes at 4 Volts, five minutes at 5 Volts and then put it in the car. It sounds sweet, so I got my tacho out to see how fast it ran at the end of the 5 Volts run. 29,700 RPM at that voltage for an SCX motor is unbelievable, that means that it runs almost five times as fast as a stock RX-42. Snow and ice on the roads prevented me from going racing this week; this motor is going to shock the other guys at my club. Thank you very much for this great little motor, John.

[havlicek]

Hi John,

I'm very glad it finally got there, doing this stuff internationally sure is slow! Anyway, that's a solid break-in and also a good durability test as well, so I think you can be sure the little SCX will stay together just fine.

It sounds sweet, so I got my tacho out to see how fast it ran at the end of the 5 Volts run. 29,700 RPM at that voltage for an SCX motor is unbelievable, that means that it runs almost five times as fast as a stock RX-42.

Thank you very much for that information. I don't own a tach so I never really know anything more than how the motors sound and feel. Extrapolating from your tach reading, I guess we're looking at somewhere over 50,000 RPM @12V easily if the response of the motor is linear. I sure hope you don't run these things over 12V!

Snow and ice on the roads prevented me from going racing this week; this motor is going to shock the other guys at my club. Thank you very much for this great little motor, John.

As I've said before, the little SCX motors have loads of potential for increased performance...both because of what you can do with them, and because they seem to be able to take it. Now the thing to look at is how to put all that extra power to the track and control it...tires, gearing, handling modifications to the car etc. In any case, it's my pleasure and also kind of a kick to know one of my motors is over there. I hope you and your fellow club members have some fun with your "Little Terror"

-john

[havlicek]

I recently got involved (happily) with a sort of "black ops" project I call "Project X" (oooo...sounds spooky!). This involves doing up some can-drive 26D motors and between some vintage goodies I was sent and what I have here, I came up with two motors.

The chrome motor on the left is a double wind with Arcos that I spent most of today working up. It draws a little over 1 amp no load and doesn't seem at all to get very warm...although that will surely change when it gets in a car and on the track The yellow motor on the right is a single wind with unknown magnets (they don't look like Mabuchis and measure stronger than the Mabuchis thankfully) which is pretty stout wire for a 26D and also draws a little over 1 amp. Because of the sensitive nature of this project, I can't go into details on the actual winds , but they should be very different motors on the track...and the double wind was done a bit differently from how I have done them recently but seems to have good potential.

Anyway, they're pretty much ready to send off to Langley...er...I mean the blogger



-john