3573 replies to this topic

[Slotgeezer]

WOW!!!

Now, really.... How excellent is THAT?!

I knew the potential was there... It just needed the right "massage" from the right Doctor!

Great job, John.... You da MAN, once again!


Jeff Easterly

[havlicek]

Thank you Jeff. This motor has been at least as much of a surprise as the SCX RX42 motors have been. With the can they used here, this motor also has a much more "vintage" thing going on. I may eventually wind another arm for this thing that falls somewhere in between the all-out insanity of this one and the "too-timid" first one. I don't want to use up too many 26D blanks now though. I LOVE this motor, too bad there aren't more of them around. I don't feel bad at all about using-up the Mura hardware to get this thing built either!

-john

[BoomerDog]

Great job again, John! Need some more Mura hardware?

Steve

[havlicek]

Hi Steve and thanks!,

I would never turn down Mura hardware (or anything else by Mura) and most Champion stuff. Hardware, unbalanced/unepoxied Mura arms for recycling (I think they were called "Wasp" or something as well as some others), cans magnets, endbells...it's all potentially "new again" You got 'em, I'll take 'em!

-john

[Slotgeezer]

Hey Jeff, any chance of seeing a photo of that 36D monster? Sounds intriguing...

Don

Of course, Master! Your wish is my command!









John has already ascertained that he'll leave these alone, w/ the 5-pole armature... It would seem a good fit for a 26D arm, if not for the beefy 3/32" armature shaft bearings... Case has the "usual" industrial part number, is marked "12vdc" & the endbell is... er.... "bullet-proof" ... At least, I think it is! ... Adapting Kemtron or Pittman NOS brushed wouldn't be out of the realm of possibility, eh?

There you go, Don... I'll check w/ my "crew chief" Ron Kiyomura, & see if he has any open-frame motors w/ a smallish stack dia., & a 3-pole comm... Stay tuned, Motor-heads!

Okay, enough of this junk... Back to John's sano winding projects!... Take it away, John!


Jeff Easterly

[havlicek]

Cool motors Jeff. I would have torn one apart just to see what's what, but only if it was "disposeable" as I wouldn't want to predict the outcome. They're certainly built for durability from the looks of them.

-john

[don.siegel]

Very interesting Jeff - it's a Pittcan! But if the 5-pole arm you're talking about is in there, not to mention those markings, then it is indeed an industrial version of this motor, since the regular Pittman DC6001 was a 3-pole... and came with either bronze or ball bearings.

The one next to it looks like a 26D out of a Faller 1/24 car, since they were the only ones I know that used the "skewed" sidewinder gears...

Now, back to .... Johnny!

Don

[havlicek]

Very interesting motors. Big, heavy and solid!

-john

[Prof. Fate]

Hi

In the day, Pittman sold that cast aluminum endbell separately, and in my brief 26d period in '66, a lot of locals used that endbell for the "insane" winds.

Fate

[BoomerDog]

I've got some, John and some things from the treasure chest as well. Just been a little slow getting them to you.
And, I wanted to post the awesome job you did on my motor. I haven't mounted it yet into a chassis, but I can tell you it's a screamer!!

It looks and sounds 1500 (well, maybe 1399 times) better than when I bought it. I will post pictures of it in its new home as soon as I complete the chassis.

Thanks again, John.....

[havlicek]

Much appreciated Steve and I'm most happy that you like the way the motor turned out! By all means post some pix when it's all set up in the chassis

-john

[havlicek]

A D29 Mabuchi FT16D

Old Motor


Body & Fender Work


New Can Bushing


New Paint & New Magnets and Shim


Now We're Getting Somewhere


Arm Salvage


Old Shaft Out, new drill blank shaft and assembly of .007" stack


More Lams


Epoxy the stack together, clamp and into the oven


Blank arm assembled & prepped


Double #29 wind, tie, epoxy, balance done


Completed Motor...very fast, but only 1.3 amps no/load, .2-.3 ohm, can or endbell drive


-john

[Slotgeezer]

WOW !!!

Breath-taking, boss!

Now, THAT'S a slot car motor, folks!


Jeff Easterly

[Alchemist]

Great buildup John!

If I may ask please, is amp draw relative to torque output?

Thank you.

Ernie

[HarV Wallbanger III]

Looking good John! Got some stuff com'in 'yer way as soon as I get the SCX rockets in.

[havlicek]

Thanks guys, I really like these double winds for the older motors ( especially the Mabuchis). I had done work on a bunch of Maximo's motors which seem to be all (or almost all?) aftermarket Mabuchis like Thorps and the ones I had seen were double winds. This lead me to try doubles again and they do seem to have some advantages that make them well suited for these motors.

If I may ask please, is amp draw relative to torque output?

Hi Ernie. If the motor is running properly, yes sort of. Remember that VXA=W (volts times amps equals watts) equation thing...well "watts" is an expression of the power output of the motor and that does sort of indicate torque. A motor can be built to favor rpms (speed) over torque (rotational moment of force) and even the same armature can be set up to produce more torque and less rpms or more rpms and less torque. I have to say that the actual physics involved here is beyond what I recall from college as that was decades ago You also have to remember that a motor that is not functioning properly will sometimes (depending on the problem) draw lots more current than it otherwise would and that people who really do a great job of setting up their motors (see Cheater's article posted here on setting up a C can) will have a longer lasting/cooler running motor that draws less amps. High current draw (amps) sounds like it would be a good thing then if it's related to power output, but the whole system (including the controller and even the track's power supply) will be stressed by motors that draw a lot of current. The magic bullet is a motor that is more efficient, or a motor that...for the amount of power it produces draws less amps. Flipping that around...two motors can draw the same amperage, but one can run faster and cooler than the other. However, when it gets down to brute force...a motor that draws more current (amps) will have more torque. So it is with all electric motors and when you buy say a power drill that is a "5 amp" drill, it will be noticeably more powerful than a "3 amp" drill. If this all sounds confusing...that's because it all IS confusing!

-john

[BoomerDog]

John,
What a great step by step pictorial of your process. I do have a question, on the picture showing the blank arm prepped.....is the white material coating the inside of the arm what you discussed way, way back in this string as ceramic glazing compound?

Thanks and keep up the great work...


Steve

[havlicek]

Hi Steve,


One of the many little details I skipped over (this stuff takes a lot of time ) is that, when I epoxy the stack together, I also coat the inside of it to help prevent shorts. This creates a nuisance in that the epoxy is so shiny/hard that the wire tends to slide around, especially the first layer. To give the stack some "tooth" so the wire stays put, I do a coat of high-temp paint like they use on BBQs and exhaust pipes. This not only helps the wire to stay put, but also adds a bit more insulation.

-john

[BoomerDog]

Cool....literally! Thanks.

[Kim Lander]

Joh...that old mabuchi looks familiar....love what you did to it...also...I am having a problem with the Mura you sent me....cant keep gears on the damn thing....it is sooooo strong I have to baby it to full speed ...I think I am going to have to gear it down some....I was smoking a guys G27`s yesterday with it, really p_ssed him off to be whooped by a c-can set up and a wire chassis. Anyways, it would just blister the track for about 6-7 laps then I would get heavy on the throttle and waste a gear, I think I went through about 5 gears befor I stopped , they were getting costly butI was enjoying every minute . Thanks again John......Kim

[havlicek]

Hey Kim,

I don't know whether to be sorry about the gear thing or tickled that you aggravated that G27 guy with your vintage sleeper You got the right chassis for that thing, I used to run G20 motors in those things and they were really fast and handled great too with some air control. With that Mura 26/26 C can it must be off the hook Before I geared the car down, I'd be looking at bracing up the motor/rear axle area...maybe there's some flex going on when you hammer the thing. Thank you for filling me in Kim

-john

[Bill from NH]

Kim were those 64 pitch plastic spur gears you were using? If so, you might want to try a bronze one by Camen or Sonic for some additional play time.

[Slotgeezer]

I bet John's on to the real deal....
Flexing chassis causing gear to shred ...
I wasted 4 - plastic ProSlot 64-pitch gears until I realized those ProSlot Euro motors have bad can plating....
Gotta get 'em solidly mounted!


Jeff Easterly

[havlicek]

I think also that Bill's idea about using bronze gears if Kim isn't already is a good one. Of course, I have had cars that chewed Faas gears (which at least back then were considered excellent gears) when the whole motor box/rear axle thingamabob wasn't super-solid. Oddly enough, I have also had cars that chewed gears with axle bearings and had less or no problems with bushings. All of this probably points to my weakness as a chassis builder more than anything else in particular

-john

[Pablo]

Kim, that motor is moving around, you gotta secure it, it's got mucho horsepower and it wants to chew.