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Lotus Europa BP Foreign Production class race car


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#1 Pablo

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Posted 13 June 2020 - 08:22 PM

Don Weaver got me started on hardbodies by gifting me a Tamiya Lola T-70. I built it to Buena Park hardbody rules and Eddie Shorer has driven it into the winner's circle several times  :)

 

Now Eddie sends me this box, also intended for the BP "Mid-engine" class.

 

IMG_6056.JPG

 

Parts gathering has begun. JK Hawk Retro motor, firm donuts on JK plastic front rims, Daytona ProTrack N5203 rears, Chicagoland 2 degree tongue, etc.

 

My first question is, assembly instructions call for Tamiya cement. Is regular CA OK, or is there something special about the Tamiya glue?

 

I'm also going to have paint questions, because the Lola didn't need paint - this one will. This will be my first hardbody slot car paint job.


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#2 Don Weaver

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Posted 14 June 2020 - 06:16 AM

Without seeing the body panels to be glued together I would suggest that if they are "edge to edge" you use some type of overlapping piece to provide more contact area.  No idea about the glue but I do know regular glue will haze the "glass" pieces - I think Tenax 7.R is the glue to use for windows - maybe someone else with modeling experience can chime in here.

 

Looking forward to Hardbody #2...

 

Don


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#3 Rotorranch

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Posted 14 June 2020 - 08:01 AM

I wouldn't use the Tenax on the windows. Tenax is fine for the body panels. Tenax and Tamiya are solvent based glues that actually melts the plastic together. I use the Tamiya liquid glue here for the bodies.

 

This is what I use for clear parts:

 

https://www.google.c...Ls537QWmefoSg1W


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#4 Don Weaver

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Posted 14 June 2020 - 10:30 AM

Jeff,

 

Thanks for the correction...

 

Don


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Don Weaver

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#5 eshorer

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Posted 14 June 2020 - 12:34 PM

I'm pretty sure it will need some webbing tape or thin Lexan on the inside of the body to attach those lower panels, and then maybe a thin layer of E6000 glue to hold it all down. That would be my limited experience with this guess. That's what I do to strengthen the noses of the hardbodies I run, or to repair them after a hard hit gives 'em a "split lip."

Eddie


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#6 Pablo

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Posted 05 July 2020 - 07:53 PM

Where to start? :scratch_one-s_head:

 

IMG_6261.JPG

 

I began cutting pieces off the sprue I know for sure I'll need:

 

front and rear bumpers

front skirt 

side skirts

rear window molding

engine cover

 

IMG_6262.JPG

 

Please don't hold back on advice for the body assembly - I haven't assembled a model kit for decades  :)


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#7 dc-65x

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Posted 05 July 2020 - 08:17 PM

Oh my. Pablo I feel your pain. I've only built a few hard bodies but they are among my most favorite cars...........probably because I had so much trouble building them. I think it's the slot car Stockholm syndrome.   :crazy:  


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#8 James Wendel

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Posted 06 July 2020 - 04:36 AM

All I race are hard bodies, so here are a few tips off the top of my head.
 
Before I glue parts together, I will generally sand them lightly with 400 grit paper.  Often there are spots that are more accessible before assembly.
 
While sanding, hit the edges for better glue adhesion and soften sharp edges.  Sharp edges glued together will make any misalignment more noticeable. Also, some paints recede from a sharp edge.... fluid dynamics or something.
 
If you are planning any interior reinforcement: carbon fiber, epoxy, whatever, rough up the inner surface while you still have good access (before assembly).  Course paper or just scratching back and forth with the tip of a knife works well.
 
I use Model Master liquid cement for general assembly.  It is primarily a solvent that dissolves the surface of the plastic and "welds" it together. There are other similar products that may work just as well.  I frequently use a flat toothpick to apply / spread the glue on small pieces.  If you lightly apply the glue to both surfaces, it grips pretty well as soon as pressed together.
 
If you want to remove the "chrome" plating from plastic, soak overnight in ammonia solution (like Windex).
 
I use canopy cement for clear parts.  It's not very strong, but it drys clear and won't craze the plastic.  a small piece of clear tape across little parts, like headlight covers, will keep them from being lost when the canopy cement inevitably fails in a hard wreck.  
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#9 Pablo

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Posted 06 July 2020 - 07:48 AM

Good stuff, thanks James!


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#10 Bud Greene

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Posted 06 July 2020 - 06:40 PM

Glue the body together first then build the slot car chassis so you can figure out what parts of the kit will fit inside the body. Some might need modifications 


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#11 Bud Greene

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Posted 06 July 2020 - 06:48 PM

Is it going to be a sidewinder? My opinion is it will be easier to get the interior in there too



#12 Pablo

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Posted 06 July 2020 - 07:00 PM

Anglewinder or sidewinder, not sure yet. We are currently working on finding a way to make the wheel tracks a full 2 3/4". The class rules allow 3 1/4 widths so it's an issue we are working on first ...... stand by ....this one is on "pause" .....


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#13 Bud Greene

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Posted 06 July 2020 - 07:39 PM

Is there a year limit? I have a 84 Mustang GTO Road Race car here that is 3.03in wide with a 4.03in wheel base



#14 Pablo

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Posted 06 July 2020 - 08:19 PM

Here are the rules:

 

 

Mid-Engine class

BODY
1. May use any 1/24 – 1/25 scale plastic model car kit, mid-engine car.
Typical cars for this new class: LeMans race cars, GT-1, GTR, Can Am, Exotic high performance cars, etc. 
2. May flatten sides below body belt line, but not beyond vertical.
3. May not alter wheel wells (bodies with side skirt covering wheel well area is allowed or can be 
removed if it resembles real 1/1 race car)
4. Must have 3-D driver/interior, chassis not visible through interior.
5. Must have kit front and rear bumpers unless supported by photo documentation
6. Aero devices from kit or scratch built to resemble real car (documentation may be requested)
Cars with rear wing which Is not an integral part of the body must have at least 50% of the wing beyond the rear 
portion of the body unless supported by photo documentation.
7. Must use front windshield and rear windows (including quarter windows) from kit or .007" thick (min.) clear plastic.
8. Body must extend beyond chassis when viewed from above. No part of chassis may be 
visible from above and wider than the bottom portion of body. Body side panels cannot extend 
beyond vertical.
9. Body can be cut out (or modified) to provide clearance for spur gear, but gear must be covered/not visible from above. 
10. Body must have 3 numbers

CHASSIS
1. May be anglewinder, sidewinder or inline.
2. Must be scratchbuilt using any materials.
3. Maximum chassis width 3.250”. Chassis cannot extend beyond body side panel when viewed from above. 
4. Wheelbase to be determined by center of wheel wells in body (plus or minus 1/16”). 
Complete wheel/tire assembly must be visible in wheel well at a point level with axle centerline.
Bodies with side skirt covering wheel well area is allowed or can be removed if it resembles real car. 
5. Ground clearance - .050” rear min., .015” front min., measured under axles (front of body to front axle, rear of body to rear axle).

TIRES
1. Tires cannot extend beyond the body when viewed from above and cannot exceed 3.25” width.
2. Rear tire diameter, .950” minimum, maximum width .700”.
3. Front tire diameter, .850” minimum, minimum width .225” 

MOTOR
1. Must use stock (sealed, no tampering) TSR D3, Falcon 7 or Retro Hawk motor.


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#15 bluecars

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Posted 07 July 2020 - 10:07 AM

Haven't built a model since I was about 15. What I remember was starting by opening the Testers glue and having it ooze out on the newspaper, opening the box and starting to read the instructions until they got to fuzzy to read. Next thing I remember was having a big mess, headache and a cool car that didn't have much to do with the picture.

 

Some of my friends didn't think parts off of old airplane models, Moms old jewelry and bottle caps didn't really look right on my cars That is my recollection of model building. Probably doesn't help your build but it did bring back some fuzzy memories. LOL!!!


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#16 Pablo

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Posted 07 July 2020 - 10:22 AM

Cool, Red.

 

How do you "think" a part off a plane?

 

I remember the headaches but not the cars  :laugh2:

 

I remember one Saturday morning at Le Mans Raceway, just the owner Harce Rice and me. A dirty smelly doper looking guy and gal walked in, went up to the counter and asked Harce for 15 tubes of glue. Hoo boy the short hairs on Harce's ex-Marine crew cut neck stood straight up, and he shouted "GET OUT BEFORE I CALL THE COPS" LOL Never saw them again LOL

 

Harce, his wife, and his daughter went to church every Sunday before opening the raceway.

 

Another time Harce had just installed a bike rack out front for us kids to park our bikes. There was a bar next door. One morning an inebriated bar hopper wanted to park close to the bar but my bike was in the way. Harce watched him lift my Schwinn Sting Ray off the rack and move it, then pull his car up. He launched out the front door and he gave that guy a 15 second taste of Marine Corp Boot Camp discipline. The drunk carefully lifted my bike up and put it back in it's place like it was a fragile egg.

 

Yup I remember the headaches with models, that's why slot cars took over. Once I found out you could put a motor in one and race it on a track, I was hooked …... :laugh2:  


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#17 James Wendel

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Posted 07 July 2020 - 12:31 PM

As much as I love the Europa, Eddie's pick for the class is seriously disadvantaged against the bigger cars that are a "better fit".  That is going to make your life much harder, trying to fit those big tires inside the Lotus's little wheel wells.

 

Check out the cars that we race that would fit the class (ignore the T/A cars at the start of the post).  I would recommend the Ferrari Enzo SnapTite kit: cheap, available, low & wide, big wheel wells, plenty of room for guide-lead, very few body parts makes it easy to build and harder to break.

 

http://slotblog.net/...ceway-on-12720/

 

If Eddie is determined to race the little Lotus, then best of luck to you both... seriously I would love to see the results.

 

- James


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#18 Keith Tanaka

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Posted 09 July 2020 - 02:26 PM

Pablo, I sent an email to Eddie recently concerning the Europa as far as our D3 Hardbody Racing rules. I mentioned that the Europa in our "mid-engine" racing class would be at a big disadvantage compared to the typical mid-engine cars being raced. Also, the mid-engine class races against the GTP class which is our fastest racing class. 

Anyway, I suggested he request that the Europa be allowed to race in our Foreign Production Sports class ("hardtops"). Although this class is for front engine cars, I do allow mid or rear engine cars to race in this class if they are submitted and accepted to race against front engine cars. I already allow the Audi R8 to race in this class. The specs for this class are similar to the mid-engine class except the maximum chassis/tire width is 3.000" instead of 3.250", and the tire diameters allowed are smaller which would benefit the Europa with its very low profile. 

The big difference in this class is the "Lap Differential" assigned to this class is 14 laps which is 14 laps more than the mid-engine/GTP classes. 14 laps will give the Europa an excellent chance to make the podium against the faster classes.

 

Here's the specs for the D3 Hardbody "Foreign Production Sports (hardtop)" class:

 

Foreign Production Sports (FPS)
An approved body list will be posted online. Only cars listed on the approved list are eligible.


BODY
1. May use any 1/24 – 1/25 scale plastic, Foreign, production sports cars (i.e.,
Acura, Mazda, Honda, Datsun, Nissan, Toyota, Ferrari, Mercedes, Porsche, Triumph,
Austin Healy, etc.). 1950 thru present. Most Mid-engine cars are not allowed, however, a mid-engine
car can be submitted for approval and become eligible once approved.
 Mid-Engine Audi R8 is allowed.[/font][/b]
2. May flatten sides below body belt line, but not beyond vertical.
3. May not alter wheel wells except for having fender flares if on 1/1 racing car.
4. Lower edge of body may be trimmed to within 1/8” below door line.
5. Must have 3-D driver/interior, chassis not visible through interior. Open cockpit cars
must have roll bar.
6. Must have kit front and rear bumpers unless supported by photo documentation
7. Must have kit front windshield and rear window or same as 1/1 race car or .007" thick (min.) clear plastic.
8. Body must extend beyond chassis when viewed from above and bottom view. No
part of chassis may be visible from above or wider than the bottom portion of body,
except for side exhaust pipes (if used on the 1/1 racing car).

CHASSIS
1. Maximum chassis width 3.000” (including outer wheel width, front and rear, side exhaust).
2. Must be scratchbuilt using any materials.
3. Wheelbase to be determined by wheel wells in body (plus or minus 1/16”). Complete
wheel/tire assembly must be visible in wheel well at a point level with axle centerline.
4. Any motor configuration (anglewinder, sidewinder, inline).
5. Ground clearance - .050” rear min., .015” front min., measured under axles (front of body to front axle, rear of body to rear axle).

TIRES
1. Tires cannot extend beyond wheel wells when viewed from above.
2. Rear tire diameter, .900” minimum, maximum width .700”.
3. Front tire diameter, .800” minimum, minimum width .225”

MOTOR
1. Stock Falcon 7, TSR D3 or Retro Hawk motor (sealed, no tampering).

 

 

Keith :)


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#19 Pablo

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Posted 09 July 2020 - 04:31 PM

Bingo, sounds like the perfect solution, thanks Keith  :)


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#20 Pablo

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Posted 09 July 2020 - 06:42 PM

Front underside, side skirts, and engine cover secured with E6000. I would have used Tamiya Cement, but Walmart carries the E6000, it's inexpensive, and comes highly recommended from the hardbody crowd  :D

 

IMG_6314.JPG


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#21 gjc2

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Posted 09 July 2020 - 06:52 PM

A friend had an Europa. You would have to put your hand on the ground getting in and out and you would have to take your shoes off to drive it (the pedals were so close together)

 

But it was huge fun to drive!


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#22 SpeedyNH

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Posted 09 July 2020 - 07:05 PM

an old girl friend of mine had one too. it was glued to the road. it only had a Renault R16 engine in it, but you didn't get left at lights. 

and yes, it was difficult to get in, with the lowness and the center spine. but it was fun to watch when She did! 


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#23 Martin

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Posted 09 July 2020 - 08:38 PM

 I found my old Lotus project. I can barely get 2 5/8" track even with a little flare.

 

Does this look like the same mold as your Tamiya kit?

 

102_4096.JPG

 

102_4098.JPG

 

What are you going to end up with for rear track?


Martin Windmill

#24 Pablo

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Posted 09 July 2020 - 08:46 PM

Effective immediately this build is officially changed to be for the BP Foreign Production Sports (FPS) class.

 

Martin, the .900 rear and .800 front wheels should now allow 2 3/4 width with no mods to the wheel wells. Keith is happy, I'm happy, the owner is happy. Onward  :dance3: 


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#25 eshorer

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Posted 09 July 2020 - 10:08 PM

Looking forward to this build. I figure I'll see how it goes with the narrow track width for starters. Heck, with 14 handicap laps I'm pretty optimistic. 

**If anyone spots one of these Tamiya Lotus Europa bodies for sale somewhere without it costing two arms and a leg, let me know. I'd like to have a back up!

Eddie


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