179 replies to this topic

[Don Weaver]

Front axle ends acid tinned before tumbling. That way the outer wheel retainers can be soldered on afterwards sans acid

 

 

Pablo, to keep acid out I've always use 63/37 solder with regular flux on the wheel retainers.  Never had a wheel come off.

 

Don

[Pablo]

Eddie, before the days of D3 and retro, cars were teched for clearance with the flag in a (non - recessed) slot.

This ISO chassis will pass that method fine.

 

But when they started teching with all four wheels resting on the block and the flag in a recessed slot, that may disturb an inexperienced inspector who doesn't have knowledge of ISO design. The flag and center section is going to drop, it's the nature of the design. If they understand that, you are fine. If they don't, or won't, you may have to convince them. Maybe Noose can explain this better, I'll ask him to chime in here today 

 

Like I said, as - is, the chassis barely meets the 15 thou goal when it drops. Just make sure the tech guy understands it's an ISO and you shouldn't have any issues. As far as track damage, an ISO is the least likely car on the track to touch in front, especially mine.

 

No, you won't use spacers to adjust for tech clearance, that is wrong. Space the flag for the track so the front wheels BARELY touch the track surface.

 

Don, you missed my point on tinning the front axle ends. I don't have a problem with wheel retainers getting soldered up. The point is, I don't like applying acid on my chassis after it comes out of the tumbler - by tinning the ends it accepts paste flux much better. Ever look at your front wheels after you solder on a retainer with acid? Instant corrosion. I don't care if you wash it off immediately, it pits. That's all my trick does. Maybe I'm not explaining myself well?

[Pablo]

Chassis is done

 

 

 

[Don Weaver]

What I was trying to say was that by using 63/37 or 60/40 solder with rosin flux for the retainers no acid flux ever gets near the front axle "bearing" surface - thus no rust or pitting.  Just my way of doing things...

 

Don

[eshorer]

That's one fine-looking chassis! A good nickname could be "The Shock Absorber" since it seems to have a number features that do just that. The only thing missing is a perpendicular center pivot for the motor/rear axle assembly. I'M KIDDING!!! The gearing will be off on my home track (it's 8' x 18') but I should be able to get a feel for it here before I can get into BPR. Looking forward to it.

Eddie

[Pablo]

I prefer "ISO Plumber's Nightmare" but hey it's your car. You can call it LuLu" if you want 

 

I consulted with Noose on the issue of teching ISO cars using the recessed block method. I quote:

 

"It (an ISO car) should be teched with the guide in a (non-recessed) slot so the clearance at the furthest point forward meets the rule in place. Not doing so drops the front on the block as the wheels touch"

 

Tony P. said this: 

 

"I would tech it on a block with same recess as the track. That’s how the car will sit on track and ensure the center section is measured in a race configuration"

 

Hope that clears it up for you. Meanwhile, back at The Ranch, assembly has begun. Motor broken in dry at 3V for 15 mins, drew .32 amps, stayed steady and cool, a good sign. Then given a 10 second Ohren splash.

 

I acid tinned the tabs, shaft, and both attachment points. Installed the pinion, then gave it a Dial and baking soda scrub.

Installation can now be done with paste flux, no more acid

 

 

Eddie, if you need to change the motor, slice the "U" brace up top right at the blue line, then unsolder the lower can end joint. I made two extra braces for you 

 

 

Two coats of nail polish on the fronts, Red Fox flag blueprinted, all rotating surfaces faced as standard procedure.

One CR .032 spacer below, one Koford bronze 10 thou above as a spare - that's for starters and we will adjust as necessary later ........

 

[Pablo]

Motor/lead wires/flag installation was a breeze, except the Koford flag nut was too tight on the RF flag shaft.

I used an aluminum nut instead, which fits perfectly. Rotation is perfect with minimal wobble.

 

California Loops with blue TQ wires on TQ clips. The return is perfect. No brag, just fact 

 

 

Why am I painting a white body white? Good question. I guess, just to hide fingerprints, blemishes, and glue goobers. 

Today is hot with low humidity so I wired it under my apartment balcony. Every time I walk the dog I give it a light squirt with Rustoleum primer/paint hi gloss white. Then tomorrow I'll give it some Rustoleum clear coat

 

 

 

[SpeedyNH]

doesn't the string mess up the paint? 

[Pablo]

Let's hope not LOL  Is that your best shot at "String Theory", Steve?    Just kidding of course.

 

Today's "bump in the road" was, the donuts I used for the JK hubs didn't pass muster. I hoped they would expand enough to make at least .920, and they didn't. Good thing there is no time deadline on this car. So I ordered big new donuts straight from JK.

 

Clearance between the pos motor tab and wire was so tight I had to trim it. Just something to be aware of in case a motor change is needed, Eddie. Drivetrain test 100% successful - perfectly smooth

 

 

[eshorer]

It's getting there! So, what will my options be for wheels with tires pre-mounted similar to Protrack? And what will the procedure be for narrowing them? Use a Hudy and slice some off the outer edges?

Eddie

[Pablo]

Excellent question, glad you asked, but I don't have an answer yet.

Let me sleep on it ....

[Pablo]

Eddie, I don't have a good answer to your wheel question. This car is "one-of-a-kind".

All I can say is, keep me informed as to what you need in advance so I can custom grind tires for it here at "The Ranch".

 

3 light coats of white Rustoleum primer/paint then Rustoleum Clear Coat. It still looks white 

I installed the decorative bits. The left side mirror took flight and I can't find it. I'm sure it will appear at some point 

 

 

 

 

[eshorer]

Looks like it's just about there!. Just waiting on tires? A friend has a back up Europa body for me, so that's a good thing. I'll definitely want a tracking # for this pup. I don't want any Package Pirates getting their hooks on this one!

Eddie

[Pablo]

I always use tracking 

[Pablo]

I cut the Lexan windshield and rear window pieces to size, then drooled microdots of Loctite CA glue little by little inside to secure them

 

 

 

[Pablo]

Noose interior is in and I think that's about all I can do to the body.

Eddie is going to apply the decals etc. himself

 

 

Big JK donuts will probably arrive today and get glued tomorrow ........

[Pablo]

I installed the decorative bits. The left side mirror took flight and I can't find it. I'm sure it will appear at some point 

FOUND IT    On my desk nestled up against my Parma curved scissors, not 18 inches from my eyes 

And I knew as soon as I painted and installed a Warmack mirror, it would appear. 

 

Now you have a spare one for when the right side one falls off, Eddie 

[Rotorranch]

Isn't that always the way it goes?

 

I usually find it after I ordered a new one!

 

Rotor

[Bill from NH]

To keep small parts from getting lost, get a picture frame(any size) remove the glass & replace it with sheet cork. You now have a walled-in space for keeping small parts so you'll know where they are when you want them. This is not my original idea. I got it from a long time model kit building friend Dave Perkins.

[Pablo]

Rear wheels given final trim/true at .925 OD, installed and width set at 2 3/8.

Body goes on, and we are back to square one - this body is way too narrow for a 1/24 slot car.

 

Rear wheels are currently 15/32 wide. I'm estimating they would fit if narrowed (on the outer edges) to 3/8.

But every estimate I've made on this car has been wrong.

Even if I'm right, you end up with 3/8 wide rears.

 

I was really hoping this would work    For now, this car is on "Pause". 

 

 

The rears are wedged tight against the body

 

 

Shoveling 50 pounds of dirt into a 35 pound bag never turns out good 

[Don Weaver]

Pablo,

 

I pretty sure I remember a wheel (Eurosport, I think) where the hub of the gear fit inside the wheel rim.  This would allow you to move the tires in a little while still maintaining their width since the gear hub width basically "disappears".  

 

Don

[SpeedyNH]

yes we had recessed inner hub 1/32 eurosport wheels for when things were tight. 

[eshorer]

It looks like even with a recessed hub gear combo, there's not much width to be gained because the inner part of a wide tire will soon hit the pinion on the motor. I've run narrow tires before, but never 3/8th on a 1:24 car. You said the tire diameter is cut to .925. Does cutting them down further give you any substantial extra tire width?

Eddie

[Pablo]

Eddie, no. Even at .900 we would still have the same problem.

So we need to re-think this. Reverse hubs, like you said, won't solve anything.

[Bill from NH]

Thinking out loud, add rear flares, rebuild the back end of the chassis into an inline, or rebuild it with a steeper motor angle. None of these is an easy fix.