117 replies to this topic

[Pablo]

Blue donuts are very rare and these were a gift from New Hampshire. I hope they have some life left under the crust

 

 

 

[Bill from NH]

They were kept in a fridge, out of sun light, for about ten yrs. after coming from WI. 

[tonyp]

FWIW, the PRO races for F1 cars were over by the end of 1969. None of the east or west coast series had any races for them on the schedule. 

[Jesse Gonzales]

some good pics of the west coast pro f1's, good times.

 

Anglewinder GP - Lotus 49B build - The DC-65X Diaries - Slotblog

 

Jess

[Pablo]

Rough first cut got down to fresh looking blue foam   

 

[Jim Lange]

I'm itching to build one of these. Does anyone still pop these wide F1 bodies? Hershman? Thanks

[Pablo]

I found my re-pop Lotus 49B on eBay

[Martin]

https://www.ebay.com...zMAAOSwgYlbkv5T

 

This is the #875 which is the wide body

 

Hope this helps Jim.

[Pablo]

That's the one I bought.     

[Pablo]

Fronts done, .752" OD. Rears given a second rough trim down to about .950" OD.

 

Regular emery boards are designed for fingernails, not slot parts. Even the high quality ones are not flat, and I don't like the rounded edges. Been wanting to make my own, and here they are. 400 grit wet/dry contact cemented to wood stir sticks. I tested them on the blues and I like them so far

 

 

[Bill from NH]

I found some Ruby coated nails files for cheap at Walmart. They're flat & last forever. I use one as a substitute "diamond file."

[Pablo]

Rear blues trimmed down to .878 OD x 11/16" width. They turned out real nice, like new. My home made emory board worked super - from now on I'll make my own 

 

[Pablo]

I'm pretty sure this will be the drop arm I use. Thickness is 40 thou and tongue rise height is proper for a Jet Flag. Sanded it clean for now and it will need some trimming later

 

[Pablo]

My old RGeo jig keeps on hangin' in there despite all the abuse. I just keep it clean and try not to overheat it. Here she is set up for WB 3 7/8", GL 1.0", chassis width 1 3/4".

 

The "888" drop arm tongue tilt is set slightly upward with the Tongue Tweaker and checked for perfect upright. Yes Bunky, I know I need to install the tube pieces to decrease the axles from 1/8 to 3/32 

 

I faced the rotating surfaces on the tongue a little, and I'll do it again with more gusto, later on .....

 

[Pablo]

Gears will be a new Sonic steel 64P 8T and a new vintage Faas 42T, shined up a bit and a new Koford Gold Billet hollow short set screw installed 

 

[Pablo]

The Noose body paint will have some red in it, so I dyed the flag with roiling salted water and a little white vinegar, and a squirt of Cherry Red Rit

 

 

Motor should be arriving soon so I bought a new cheapie Toaster Oven from Walmart, and a couple cans of paint

 

[Pablo]

Setup with new arm arrived. Mags installed with both epoxy and clips. Plenty of shaft meat on ED side for the comm cooler. 38 turns of 27 and a healthy dose of timing. .513" OD and .475" stack length. Balanced and mags zapped by Alpha. Airgap 10 thou per side

 

 

I can't wait to bake some paint on the can and test it  

[Pablo]

Paint turned out pretty good    Some primer, then 3 coats of black baked on.

 

Precise setup with a custom professional arm makes assembly very easy; arm spacing is perfect. Long buss bar trimmed. Comm cooler will be installed later if it fits under the body.

 

Koford brushes and M313 light springs. Time for a brush pre-radius and shunt party 

 

 

Brushes marked "+" and "-".

I decide when to stop rotating the tool based on the amount of material removed. It's an art, not a science. In this case, 15 turns in each direction worked well for me

 

[Pablo]

Motor assembly complete

 

 

 

Shorter of the two buss bars is positive. Comm cooler may be installed later, depending on space limitations. Break in and test results: 

Spins up immediately, dead smooth. Each time voltage was increased, the amps would increase slightly, then decrease slightly. This indicates a healthy motor that is already close to brushes being fully seated. Runs lukewarm temp, just as I would expect a 27 wire to do on a power supply

 

2V 2.3amps

3V 2.2 amps

4V 2.4 amps

 

IMO, this is classic amp draw indicative of a motor of this type. Then after a cooldown and re-oil, I fed 'er "some" volts, enough to feel the potency. This is a "happy" motor with awesome power. She meets my expectations 100% 

 

 

 

[bbr]

nice job on the shunts, when i do them, they r all stiff, LOL

[Pablo]

Thanks Mike   If you want to see perfect shunts, see dc-65x subforum for "gold standard" shunt workmanship. I'm just copying his works 

[Pablo]

So excited for this build, I got some new "tools" from Kimco. 80-5-10 Soder-Wick is a size "in between" the 2 widths I've been using. Trying to find a universal happy medium width - we shall see.

 

A roll of anti-solder tape, influenced by Slotblog mentor dc-65x. Not the exact stuff he uses, but it's what Kimko sells. I'll try it out for the first time here

 

[Larry Horner]

Pablo, lovely motor ... I can hardly wait to see the chassis come together!

 

I was reading Rick's post and your dialog with him regarding securing the motor from both ends ... just like you told me for my tanglewinder. But something that caught my eye was when Rick said he might build another F1 anglewinder in which the motor was a stressed chassis member. Rick if it ever happened, I hope it too was a Lotus 49!

[Pablo]

Any motor where the can is connected in 2 different places can be considered a "stressed member".  How much and how well it improves a chassis is a subject for discussion, based on how it's done.

 

I just now looked at Rick's newest one - THAT is a genuine pure 100% stressed member     

 

My theory is, an anglewinder can and will have evil "bunny hop" if the end opposite the gears is allowed to move up and down as the pinion tries to "climb" up the spur. It moves up like a lever, reaches a point where it's can't go any further, then goes back down. And so on, creating a see-saw motion, resulting in the dreaded evil "bunny hop". This can be prevented by bracing the opposite end on the opposing side. 

 

There has been discussion on the "bunny hop" regarding these type cars. I don't think it was a design fault. I think it was a lack of proper motor bracing. We shall see .......

[Pablo]

Rear axle tube cut at 1.063. I had a math prof in college who gave an hour long lecture on Pi I'll never forget. His ending statement was "Math is God".

 

Here are the beginnings of my GP A/W motor cage. Once a few steel spacers are applied, the overall width goal is 3.0" 

 

 

Not sure yet which way the spur will fit. Right now I'm only concerned with the tube