87 replies to this topic

[dc-65x]

That's the cover Martin. I thought it might have been a Matich but it's cool none the less. Thanks for posting the picture.

 

Here's my Matich mounted nice and low and the Lancer full interior will still fit with one little trimmed relief:

 

[Martin]

I assume you are using the full interior from the 161 scale body. It has the really nice frame detail. Were as the 5161 and the 961 has the plain flat interior.

 

Nice stance

[Larry Horner]

Gotta say that is one low mean looking beast!

[Martin]

Found some details you may be interested in including in your build?

 

High mount mirror and the spare wheel under the windshield. Screen shots from a U-tube race video.

 

Matich lead start to finish BTW.

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[dc-65x]

Thanks Martin but this build was all planned out before I started the thread.

[Martin]

Look forward to seeing the end result

[dc-65x]

I'm starting to detail the body so I thought I should share a "mission statement" for what I'm doing:

 

I hope to end up with a "low and wide" PRO type car that performs as it should and a body that actually looks like a period race car, but not necessarily recreate every last detail of the original prototype.

 

I'm not a master modeler and I am not capable of properly recreating every last detail of the original car. 

 

For those reading this who are great modelers, it would be wonderful to see a thread of your build from its beginning to completion with pictures here on Slotblog. We would all enjoy that and certainly learn from it.

 

So I'm doing what I did when I was racing at my local track back in the 60's. I enjoyed adding the details I was capable of that would (hopefully!) stay on the car through the completion of the race. Whenever possible the details would be held on with tape and transferable to a new body if severe race damage happened.

 

Here's what I've made up for my Matich. The scale version of the Lancer Matich comes with this really nice full interior:

 

 

 

I have a repop of the interior by TrueScale along with these other goodies I've made up:

 

 

There's a transaxle detail that glues to a small thin styrene sheet that will be tapped to the body. The roll bar is 1/16" aluminum rod that will be glued into the interior. Detail Masters velocity stacks will be glued to holes drilled into a thin sheet styrene piece and glued to the interior. I also have aluminum tube exhaust pipes, a Russkit driver's head, a rear spoiler, a Russkit wheel insert and the not yet completed spare tire that will use that wheel insert.

 

The spare tire is a 2-piece vinyl job from the Revell Competition Porsche model kit. It's shown snugged up on a spark plug socket and being sliced to size:

 

 

The rim section of a repop Russkit front wheel was parted off:

 

 

From left to right are the tire and wheel I started with, the pieces that were removed and the finished pieces:

 

 

I still need to mount and paint the wheel insert to complete the spare tire.

 

Here it's shown on the Matich during one of it's races that I suppose the rules required it be in place:

 

 

Time to start painting..........

[chrisguyw]

Hello Rick, Absolutely spectacular as usual !!!.......................If you are looking to create some easy to do "period correct" looking exhausts,......you may want to try this. (I learned this from one of the static modeller sites)

 

Buy some "Blacken It" (available from online model shops)......this stuff is used to "weather" metal bits used primarily by the military model folks,...........dip some brass tubing in it for a few seconds, (the longer you dip it the darker it will get), and it will turn the brass into the weathered/used/ heated cooled look of steel pipes,.............much more realistic than aluminium  

 

PS this stuff does not work on Alu.,.......and once you have achieved the look/darkness you want, give the brass a quick rinse in water.....this will stop it getting progressively darker.

 

Cheers

Chris Walker

 

 

[dc-65x]

Thanks very much for the tip Chris.

 

Chris IS a master modeler and anything he kind enough to post on Slotblog is absolutely spectacular...........I'm a big fan!

[Bill from NH]

Micro Mark had the blacking fluid at one time. You might find it in a well stocked model train shop too. Chris builds some great cars in both 1/32 & 1/24 scales.

[Isaac S.]

For sure, Chris is an expert.

Thanks for the tip on exhaust pipes, I will try it out.

[dc-65x]

I finished up the spare tire:

 

 

The wheel inserts are also done. I machined down Cox magnesium Lotus extra narrow front wheels for inserts.

Since no knockoff was used on this sports racer I modified some 5-40 stainless steel set screws to fill the axle holes:

 

 

Here are the front and back of the modified parts for the front and rear wheels:

 

 

The Cox wheels were micro bead blasted with a super fine compound and clear coated with Testors lacquer:

 

 

I guess I can't put off painting the body any longer.....

[Isaac S.]

Looks good, you did a great job. A lot of work went into those little inserts. 

[chrisguyw]

Spectacular job on the inserts 

 

Cheers

Chris Walker

[dc-65x]

Thank you.    Those inserts were a fun project. A not so fun project for me was the detail painting. I pushed through and got it today:

 

 

 

[dc-65x]

The finished interior:

 

 

[Alchemist]

Hi Rick,

 

Your project builds, to me, are like seeing Slot Car jewelry!

 

Excellent Rick!

 

Ernie

[Isaac S.]

Beautiful! It will look great in the body.

[dc-65x]

Just don't look to closely Ernie!       I haven't found any paint brushes yet that don't shake like crazy.   

 

Thanks Isaac. I think it should really perk up the monochromatic paint livery with the spare tire and velocity stacks.

[Bill from NH]

 I haven't found any paint brushes yet that don't shake like crazy.  

 

Maybe they just need some well-placed chassis weights.   

[Pablo]

Hey that's not a bad idea. People weight golf clubs and fishing rods with great improvements in balance and feel.

[dc-65x]

Today was a perfect day outside for rattle can spray painting in my trashcan paint booth.

 

The body is all masked with Teflon tape and the windscreen masking is burnished down well:

 

 

Here's my spray booth:

 

 

I used the now discontinued Testors British green metallic enamel and backed it with metallic gold:

 

"Sometimes things have to get worse before they get better"    

 

 

That looks better:

 

 

Testors brush cleaner thinner cleaned off all the overspray:

 

 

I love this color. Such a deep green with its sparkling gold metal flake.......so naturally its been discontinued:  

 

 

Now I need to wait a few days for the enamel to fully cure before I tape things to the inside of the body...

[Pablo]

Super sweet! How long did you let the green dry before backing it with the gold?

[Bill from NH]

I think the entire line of Testors pant is gone due to Rustoleum having purchased them, I spent many a dime on their bottles & 69 cents for their spray cans over the years.

[dc-65x]

Hi Pablo,

 

Using light coats, it only took a few minutes in the sun for the paint to "skin over" to the touch (on the taped windscreen). Then I could blow on another coat or the backer. I don't know if that is the "right" thing to do but it works for me.

 

Bill, I really liked that Testors and Model Masters had a zillion colors to choose from. Now that is changing. Lots fewer color choices and limited availability. I bought up a bunch of colors but I know it could potentially go bad over time......