87 replies to this topic

[dc-65x]

Cool Pablo  

 

I made up some springs for the pans similar to tonyp's:

 

 

And also an L-brace for the motor bracket and the pan down stops like the Nutley team car:

 

 

Here's the whole enchilada all cleaned up and hand polished:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[dc-65x]

Well, I'm pretty happy with the chassis so I'll move on to the motor.

 

I building a tribute to this Pete Zimmerman motor from the same time period as my chassis.

 

CLICK ON PIC TO ENLARGE:

 

 

I'm starting my tribute to Pete's motor with a 1968 Mabuchi can..........

 

 

..........and a NOS Champion oilite bearing:

 

 

Now I need to get that crap-O-la ball bearing out.

 

 

[Pablo]

How many balls did those have? Like, three?   

[dc-65x]

Looks like 6 Pablo, unless I lost one in the process:   

 

 

Rather than order a #39 drill blank and wait for it I decided to beat on a drill tip with my brass hammer. It worked great and the drill even survived.  

Now to get the other half the the BB shell and the aluminum housing off........

[Bill from NH]

I used to refer to those & the 26D's as "Budweiser Bearings." They became the "weak link" in a lot of slot car motors.

[dc-65x]

The top cap of the bearing (still shown in this photo) has been removed and not it's time for the aluminum housing crimped on the can to come off:

 

 

I used a 3/8" end mill to slowly peck away at the housing crimp until it simply fell off:

 

 

The factory hole in the can and the Champion bearing are perfectly sized for each other.....JOY!

 

 

I soldered the bearing on the inside of the can and got a nice fillet of solder around the outside of the bearing too:

 

 

I made sure not to get any acid flux down the bearing hole and I added oil to the bearing while it was still hot.

 

Magnets are next.........

[dc-65x]

The magnets are Versitec......

 

 

.........with a Mura Semi-can shim (this one was sold by Dynamic).....

 

 

.....and some Certus top and bottom magnet shims to keep the magnets centered:

 

 

Here's everything ready to install:

 

 

And installed:

 

[Isaac S.]

Lookin good.

[dc-65x]

Thanks Isaac. I've got an NOS Mura first generation unmeltable endbell for the project:

 

 

I tapped the endbell for 2-56 stainless steel machine screws because I'm one of the "endbell freaks" Lee Gilbert wrote about:  

 

 

I used 0-80 machine screws to attach the endbell:

 

 

Now I'm looking over my available armatures to finish up the motor.........

[dc-65x]

For a May 1968 armature I thought it should have:

 

Thick laminations

 

Fiberboard lamination endplates, no powder coating.

A high performance commutator (Kirkwood?), not a French/Tradeship or Mabuchi.

Solder, not welded, comm wires.

Thread wrapped comm wires.

 

I have this "mystery arm" that fits the bill going in the motor:

 

 

It's a double wind, .3 ohm and has CCW timing:

 

 

Comm wires are wrapped:

 

 

I trued the comm on my Hudy and we'll see how it runs........

[Isaac S.]

That arm looks like it was balanced by Thorp. I dont think its a Thorp as it doesnt have the right thread wrap on the comm.

I think that is a bit earlier that mid-68. That would be the single 25 or double 28 timeframe, pretty sure those would have less ohms. But, it will work just fine in your car, most of the period cars were overpowered anyway.

[dc-65x]

Yes it does have an early Thorp look to it Isaac but I don't think it is either. And I did try to err on the earlier side of that Zimmerman motor time period. 

 

Do you have Steve Okeefe's DVDs of Model Car and Model Racing Journals? They are really helpful. In their late April and May race tech charts there is a smattering of D29 winds being used but as you mentioned, far more heavier doubles and singles.

 

But I can only do with what I have, "You build a vintage car with the parts you have, not the parts you wish you had".     

[Isaac S.]

Exactly, that arm will still fly.

No, I dont. They do seem very helpful. The race reports and tech articles are great.

My apostrophes keep going away, I dont know why.

[Pablo]

Which was better - "Uncoughable" or "Unmeltable"? 

[dc-65x]

That first gen grey Mura endbell was definitely a meltable unmeltable endbell Pablo.    But they look cool. 

 

The motor is ready to go:

 

 

 

I used this kit for 'brush gear":

 

 

The brush springs have my "invisible" Teflon tube insulation and the hex brush holders are soldered to the hoods:

 

[dc-65x]

I'll try to move along and get this build done so I can put this dead thread to bed.

 

Wheels and tires. Fronts are Russkit repops with K&B hard vinyl tires:

 

 

More Russkit repops for the rear and Alpha blue donuts:

 

 

These wheels (and all mass machined aluminum wheels really) should be at least deburred with a Scotch Brite pad and I finish with a bit of metal polish:

 

 

The finish prepped wheel on the left. It really makes the raw as machined wheel look like grunt:

 

 

I also remove the unnecessary rear wheel flange to make it easier to get the donut on:

 

 

I needed to let 1/16" of tire extend past the inside edge of the wheel. I clamped an Xacto knife into a boring bar tool holder and my little aluminum frame hobby lathe accurately locate the cut:

 

 

Wheels and tires ready to install:

 

 

 

Time for the body.........

 

 

[Pablo]

The SANO bar just keeps getting higher    

[Isaac S.]

I agree Pablo.

[dc-65x]

Thanks and I think those of us who build and post vintage cars on Slotblog are always inspired by and learning from each other.  

 

I love the earlier cars like this mid '68 anglewinder because the bodies still looked like cars and not door stops.

 

In 1968 I was 18 and this is what a race car looked like then:

 

 

 

 

The versions of the Matich SR3 I know of are the Riggen/Brimhall:

 

 

Scale Lancer:

 

 

And the Lancer Super Competition which I'm using for this build:

 

 

The Matich is one of the first 6 Super Competition bodies Lancer introduced. It appears in the 1968 Autoworld catalog.

Here's a comparison with the smaller scale version on the right:

 

 

 

The scale version easily drops inside the Super Comp:

 

 

I'll get the body mounted and we'll see how it looks on the chassis...........

[Mr. M]

Is the white car I the background the Howmet Turbine?

[dc-65x]

Looks like it's a Porsche. Maybe a locally produced roadster version of the 906.

 

[Martin]

Good choice, always loved the Matich. It has so many rivet details.

 

I remember a Matich at the track 1968ish  with all the rivets painted a contrasting (to the body) color. I was very impressionable at 14. 

 

Rivet counters unite

[Isaac S.]

Great body, love these type cars. 

 

Chris, it is a Porsche 906. But, some were modified (both by factory, dealerships and owners) to be a type of "Bergspyder". These would have been made for hillclimbs but I could imagine they were taken to the US and used as road course cars. This is just what I've heard, I could be wrong. 

[dc-65x]

Martin, wasn't a green (I think) Matich on the cover of a 1960's British slot car magazine?

I thought I had that magazine and was going to post the cover picture but I can't find it now.  

I seem to remember you getting my Super Comp Matich in a trade because of how cool that car was. 

[Martin]

You may be thinking of this cover ? I thought I had it my files, but I too, could not find it.

So I scanned the mag so we can all admire the paint work Love the white panel lines.

No Matich though   Russkit Elfin and a Dynamic Lola T160.

 

"I seem to remember you getting my Super Comp Matich in a trade because of how cool that car was"

 

Was this just the body or a complete car?

 

Lancer made a Matich 161 a 5161Light weight  and the 961 Super Comp being almost 3 1/4" wide.

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