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Tonyp's mid-1968 Eastern winning chassis


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#26 dc-65x

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Posted 02 August 2021 - 06:10 PM

Cool Pablo   :)

 

I made up some springs for the pans similar to tonyp's:

 

Matich chassis (39).JPG

 

And also an L-brace for the motor bracket and the pan down stops like the Nutley team car:

 

Matich chassis (41).JPG

 

Here's the whole enchilada all cleaned up and hand polished:

 

Matich chassis (40).JPG

 

 

Matich chassis (44).JPG

 

Matich chassis (42).JPG

 

Matich chassis (47).JPG

 

 

 

 

 

 


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#27 dc-65x

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Posted 04 August 2021 - 11:55 AM

Well, I'm pretty happy with the chassis so I'll move on to the motor.

 

I building a tribute to this Pete Zimmerman motor from the same time period as my chassis.

 

CLICK ON PIC TO ENLARGE:

 

MCJ V1N11 p7 - Copy.jpg

 

I'm starting my tribute to Pete's motor with a 1968 Mabuchi can..........

 

Matich motor (6).JPG

 

..........and a NOS Champion oilite bearing:

 

Matich motor (12).JPG

 

Now I need to get that crap-O-la ball bearing out.

 

 


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#28 Pablo

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Posted 04 August 2021 - 12:02 PM

How many balls did those have? Like, three?  :bad:  :D


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#29 dc-65x

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Posted 04 August 2021 - 12:37 PM

Looks like 6 Pablo, unless I lost one in the process:    :D

 

Matich motor (8).JPG

 

Rather than order a #39 drill blank and wait for it I decided to beat on a drill tip with my brass hammer. It worked great and the drill even survived.   :crazy:

Now to get the other half the the BB shell and the aluminum housing off........


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#30 Bill from NH

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Posted 04 August 2021 - 03:54 PM

I used to refer to those & the 26D's as "Budweiser Bearings." They became the "weak link" in a lot of slot car motors. :laugh2:


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#31 dc-65x

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Posted 05 August 2021 - 12:34 PM

The top cap of the bearing (still shown in this photo) has been removed and not it's time for the aluminum housing crimped on the can to come off:

 

Matich motor (7).JPG

 

I used a 3/8" end mill to slowly peck away at the housing crimp until it simply fell off:

 

Matich motor (9).JPG

 

The factory hole in the can and the Champion bearing are perfectly sized for each other.....JOY!

 

Matich motor (10).JPG

 

I soldered the bearing on the inside of the can and got a nice fillet of solder around the outside of the bearing too:

 

Matich motor (11).JPG

 

I made sure not to get any acid flux down the bearing hole and I added oil to the bearing while it was still hot.

 

Magnets are next.........


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#32 dc-65x

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Posted 05 August 2021 - 05:32 PM

The magnets are Versitec......

 

Matich motor (16).JPG

 

.........with a Mura Semi-can shim (this one was sold by Dynamic).....

 

Matich motor (15).JPG

 

.....and some Certus top and bottom magnet shims to keep the magnets centered:

 

Matich motor (14).JPG

 

Here's everything ready to install:

 

Matich motor (17).JPG

 

And installed:

 

Matich motor (25).JPG


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#33 Isaac S.

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Posted 05 August 2021 - 06:08 PM

Lookin good.
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#34 dc-65x

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Posted 06 August 2021 - 11:12 AM

Thanks Isaac. I've got an NOS Mura first generation unmeltable endbell for the project:

 

Matich motor (2).JPG

 

I tapped the endbell for 2-56 stainless steel machine screws because I'm one of the "endbell freaks" Lee Gilbert wrote about:   :crazy:

 

Matich motor (1).JPG

 

I used 0-80 machine screws to attach the endbell:

 

Matich motor (3).JPG

 

Now I'm looking over my available armatures to finish up the motor.........


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#35 dc-65x

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Posted 06 August 2021 - 03:17 PM

For a May 1968 armature I thought it should have:

 

Thick laminations

 

Fiberboard lamination endplates, no powder coating.

A high performance commutator (Kirkwood?), not a French/Tradeship or Mabuchi.

Solder, not welded, comm wires.

Thread wrapped comm wires.

 

I have this "mystery arm" that fits the bill going in the motor:

 

Matich motor (18).JPG

 

It's a double wind, .3 ohm and has CCW timing:

 

Matich motor (19).JPG

 

Comm wires are wrapped:

 

Matich motor (20).JPG

 

I trued the comm on my Hudy and we'll see how it runs........


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#36 Isaac S.

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Posted 06 August 2021 - 04:25 PM

That arm looks like it was balanced by Thorp. I dont think its a Thorp as it doesnt have the right thread wrap on the comm.

I think that is a bit earlier that mid-68. That would be the single 25 or double 28 timeframe, pretty sure those would have less ohms. But, it will work just fine in your car, most of the period cars were overpowered anyway.
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#37 dc-65x

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Posted 06 August 2021 - 05:09 PM

Yes it does have an early Thorp look to it Isaac but I don't think it is either. And I did try to err on the earlier side of that Zimmerman motor time period. 

 

Do you have Steve Okeefe's DVDs of Model Car and Model Racing Journals? They are really helpful. In their late April and May race tech charts there is a smattering of D29 winds being used but as you mentioned, far more heavier doubles and singles.

 

But I can only do with what I have, "You build a vintage car with the parts you have, not the parts you wish you had".    :unknw:  :victory:


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#38 Isaac S.

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Posted 06 August 2021 - 06:13 PM

Exactly, that arm will still fly.

No, I dont. They do seem very helpful. The race reports and tech articles are great.

My apostrophes keep going away, I dont know why.
Isaac Santonastaso

#39 Pablo

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Posted 06 August 2021 - 07:59 PM

Which was better - "Uncoughable" or "Unmeltable"?  :D


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#40 dc-65x

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Posted 07 August 2021 - 01:23 PM

That first gen grey Mura endbell was definitely a meltable unmeltable endbell Pablo.  :wacko2:  But they look cool.  :D

 

The motor is ready to go:

 

Matich motor (21).JPG

 

Matich motor (22).JPG

 

I used this kit for 'brush gear":

 

Matich motor (5).JPG

 

The brush springs have my "invisible" Teflon tube insulation and the hex brush holders are soldered to the hoods:

 

Matich motor (23).JPG


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#41 dc-65x

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Posted 11 August 2021 - 10:49 AM

I'll try to move along and get this build done so I can put this dead thread to bed.

 

Wheels and tires. Fronts are Russkit repops with K&B hard vinyl tires:

 

Matich wheels (2).JPG

 

More Russkit repops for the rear and Alpha blue donuts:

 

Matich wheels (1).JPG

 

These wheels (and all mass machined aluminum wheels really) should be at least deburred with a Scotch Brite pad and I finish with a bit of metal polish:

 

Matich wheels.JPG

 

The finish prepped wheel on the left. It really makes the raw as machined wheel look like grunt:

 

Matich wheels (3).JPG

 

I also remove the unnecessary rear wheel flange to make it easier to get the donut on:

 

Matich wheels (4).JPG

 

I needed to let 1/16" of tire extend past the inside edge of the wheel. I clamped an Xacto knife into a boring bar tool holder and my little aluminum frame hobby lathe accurately locate the cut:

 

Matich wheels (5).JPG

 

Wheels and tires ready to install:

 

Matich wheels (7).JPG

 

Matich wheels (6).JPG

 

Time for the body.........

 

 


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#42 Pablo

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Posted 11 August 2021 - 11:27 AM

The SANO bar just keeps getting higher  :D  


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#43 Isaac S.

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Posted 11 August 2021 - 12:11 PM

I agree Pablo.
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#44 dc-65x

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Posted 11 August 2021 - 05:15 PM

Thanks and I think those of us who build and post vintage cars on Slotblog are always inspired by and learning from each other.   :victory:

 

I love the earlier cars like this mid '68 anglewinder because the bodies still looked like cars and not door stops.

 

In 1968 I was 18 and this is what a race car looked like then:

 

Matich Photo (1).png

 

Matich Photo (4).jpg

 

Matich Photo (3).jpg

 

The versions of the Matich SR3 I know of are the Riggen/Brimhall:

 

Matich Riggen (1a).JPG

 

Scale Lancer:

 

Matich Lancer Scale 161 (1).JPG

 

And the Lancer Super Competition which I'm using for this build:

 

Matich Lancer Super Comp (1).JPG

 

The Matich is one of the first 6 Super Competition bodies Lancer introduced. It appears in the 1968 Autoworld catalog.

Here's a comparison with the smaller scale version on the right:

 

Matich Lancer Interior (5).JPG

 

Matich Lancer Interior (4).JPG

 

The scale version easily drops inside the Super Comp:

 

Matich Lancer Interior (2).JPG

 

I'll get the body mounted and we'll see how it looks on the chassis...........


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#45 Mr. M

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Posted 11 August 2021 - 05:41 PM

Is the white car I the background the Howmet Turbine?


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#46 dc-65x

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Posted 11 August 2021 - 06:04 PM

Looks like it's a Porsche. Maybe a locally produced roadster version of the 906.

 

ah-autosportsman-june-67.jpg


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#47 Martin

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Posted 11 August 2021 - 06:40 PM

Good choice, always loved the Matich. It has so many rivet details.

 

I remember a Matich at the track 1968ish  with all the rivets painted a contrasting (to the body) color. I was very impressionable at 14. 

 

Rivet counters unite :wacko2:


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#48 Isaac S.

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Posted 11 August 2021 - 07:33 PM

Great body, love these type cars. 

 

Chris, it is a Porsche 906. But, some were modified (both by factory, dealerships and owners) to be a type of "Bergspyder". These would have been made for hillclimbs but I could imagine they were taken to the US and used as road course cars. This is just what I've heard, I could be wrong. 


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#49 dc-65x

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Posted 12 August 2021 - 11:31 AM

Martin, wasn't a green (I think) Matich on the cover of a 1960's British slot car magazine?

I thought I had that magazine and was going to post the cover picture but I can't find it now.   :dash2:

I seem to remember you getting my Super Comp Matich in a trade because of how cool that car was.  :)


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#50 Martin

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Posted 12 August 2021 - 02:17 PM

You may be thinking of this cover ? I thought I had it my files, but I too, could not find it.

So I scanned the mag so we can all admire the paint work :sun_bespectacled: Love the white panel lines.

No Matich though :dash2:  Russkit Elfin and a Dynamic Lola T160.

 

"I seem to remember you getting my Super Comp Matich in a trade because of how cool that car was"

 

Was this just the body or a complete car?

 

Lancer made a Matich 161 a 5161Light weight  and the 961 Super Comp being almost 3 1/4" wide.

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