87 replies to this topic

[dc-65x]

I was looking for a 1968 anglewinder to build and this tonyp how-to article in Car Model Magazine caught my attention:

 

 

 

Steve Okeefe has the article scanned and posted on Slotblog.

 

Here's a link to it:

 

Team Nutley's Eastern Winning Chassis

 

A similar tonyp chassis driven by Team Nutley's Wayne Williams came in second at the June 15, 1968 New York ARCO. That race was covered in a really good issue of Model Car Journal with lots of pictures.

 

I'm posting all 8 pages of it here (click on the picture to enlarge):

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Time to start building........

[dc-65x]

I won't be building an exact replica of Tony's chassis but rather an "inspired by" version.

 

It will (hopefully!) look very much like his super cool chassis. But I'll be doing some things differently based on what's fun for me starting with the motor box. Tony used a clever and much easier to make 2-piece motor box design which I really like. Why, because I use yards of piano wire before I finally get a 1-piece motor box made correctly.

 

Lucky for me, Steve Okeefe is a master at making them and sent me some to use.

 

Here is a link to how he makes them:

 

Emott Style Motor Box

 

I made up an axle tube to use with one of Steve's motor boxes:

 

 

As Steve points out in his how-to article it's important to have the outer corner of the motor box bumped up against the outer most frame rail. Based on the size and angle of the motor box the outer frame rail width is determined. They should blend in nicely with both sides of the motor box (which you'll see when I start laying in the main rails):

 

 

So with the axle tube soldered to the motor box uprights I made some simple L-braces for the endbell side...........

 

 

................and the can side:

 

 

Finished:

 

 

 

Laying in the main rails is next.

[Isaac S.]

Very similar to the Tanaka side-saddle sidewinder that was a also in a how-to in Car Model. Will be a fun and cool build. 

[Bill from NH]

Keith built his Car Model magazine chassis using a Champion Align-O-Jig. You have one of those Isaac? Rick Moore, of FL, is the expert on using these chassis jigs.

[Isaac S.]

Yes, tried to use it but haven't got the hang of it yet. I'll mess with it some more another day. 

[Bill from NH]

I've had one  50+ years & never got the complete hang of it yet either.   Someday, I'll mess with it again to get it more square using some Dubro set crew collars. I still have the original paper instruction sheets, if you'd like a copy, email me your address.  wffernald@aol.com   

[dc-65x]

OK.........well..........moving right along with this build, I'm starting with the outer rails rather than the inner rails first.

 

With this particular angle and width motor box my outer main rails needed to be 1 9/16" wide to flow smoothly along the sides of the motor box:

 

 

The goal is to have the bend in the main rails aligned with the corners of the motor box for a clean look:

 

 

I made the rails run the full length of the motor box to beef it up:

 

 

The inner rails are added, spaced for a 3/4" drop arm and the front axle tube and uprights are jigged up:

 

 

It's starting to look like a chassis:

 

 

2 more brass rails per side are next...........

[Pablo]

Beauty 

[Bill from NH]

Didn't know I was in the middle of your thread Rick. Steve built a left-side drive version of this chassis about 10 yrs. ago so he could run a contemporary t6D motor. He said the chassis ran beautifully at his local raceway. He had his chassis posted online at one time, but I don't know if it still is. It may have been included when his forum moved to Slotblog.

[Bill from NH]

Here is Steve's build  from The Independent Scratchbuilder forum.

 

 

 

[dc-65x]

The last frame rails are both brass, Tonyp put a cool little bend in the third rail. It looks trick and provides more surface area to solder to:

 

 

 

Here's the setup the Rick's Jig allowed to align and center up the drop arm hinge tubes:

 

 

Here's where the chassis is so far:

 

 

 

The center section is now ready for the motor bracket and the braces between the main rails and motor box like Tonyp used.

[Larry Horner]

Lovely work as usual Rick! Obviously its been around for awhile but this design for supporting the front axle tube is new to me and I like its simplicity.

[Dave Buchholz]

I was a junior at Williamsville High School, when this race happened in 1968. Grell's Raceway was my home track. Still have my original pit box, with the Grell's sticker on it I was in the crowd with a friend,  watching this race.  The Red track had a very bumpy main staight, and was somewhat of torture for a particular seventeen year old making a $1.00 an hour at a nearby Grocery store. at the time. I remember calling in sick that day, just to watch the race!

[dc-65x]

Thanks Larry.     

 

That front axle design makes for a much easier build. I believe it fell out of favor because the 2 front axle uprights increase the chassis stiffness. Tonyp's 2-piece motor box also makes for an easier build. Those things along with the simple pans and no plumber rail really make for easier anglewinder build for anyone wanting to give it a try.

 

Very cool that you were there for the race Dave.  

[dc-65x]

Tonyp used a modified Russkit inline motor bracket. I found this advertisment in the May 23, 1968 MCJ for an Associated anglewinder bracket with adjustable gear ratio:

 

 

This early anglewinder bracket could be the one in the ad and I'm going with it:

 

 

I also installed the motor box to main rail braces:

 

 

 

The motor bracket is also soldered to the rear axle L-brace:

 

 

I still need to add another motor bracket brace......just not sure where yet:

 

 

The drop arm is next:

 

 

 

 

[old & gray]

Lovely work as usual Rick! Obviously its been around for awhile but this design for supporting the front axle tube is new to me and I like its simplicity.

 

Thanks Larry.   

 

That front axle design makes for a much easier build. I believe it fell out of favor because the 2 front axle uprights increase the chassis stiffness. Tonyp's 2-piece motor box also makes for an easier build. Those things along with the simple pans and no plumber rail really make for easier anglewinder build for anyone wanting to give it a try.

 

Very cool that you were there for the race Dave.  

 

I seem to remember the front axle tube support design changes when the plumber hinge moves in front of the axle.

[dc-65x]

Hi Bob

 

That rear axle tube support was a convenient and popular place to mount the plumber hinge. A quick look through MCJ/MRJ and I didn't see any cars with that style axle mount located anywhere else.

 

I did see a mix of this style axle tube mount and the main rails bent up 90 style. Then the evolution to the long used L-braces mounted between the frame rails took over.

[dc-65x]

Here's a COBRA 3/4" drop arm and my modified arm for 3/16" ID tube and relief cuts for the hinge tube:

 

 

This is the 3rd time I've used this style drop arm down stop and setup to solder it in place. It just works:

 

 

Soldering on the hinge tube and guide flag tube:

 

 

The finished drop arm:

 

 

 

Time for the pans:

 

[Isaac S.]

Did you turn down where the guide tube was soldered to the drop arm? I assume it was just for cleanup? It looks great, lots of brass on this one. 

[dc-65x]

Hi Isaac,

 

Tonyp used a brass tube for the guide in his build so I did the same. I opened up the hole in the drop arm to 7/32". The COBRA drop arm's guide tongue was also anything but flat so I left a little of the tube protrude from the bottom of the drop arm:

 

 

The tubes top and bottom surfaces are flat and parallel.

[Isaac S.]

I was wondering about this. The circular scratches make me think that it was turned on your sherline. 

[dc-65x]

Those circular scratches were done with a piece of 400 grit sandpaper draped over the tube and a twisting motion done by hand. Makes a nice uniform cleanup.  

It didn't to anything to the actual solder joint, just smoothed out the solder on the guide tongue from moving the soldering iron around the tube.

 

It's cool that you noticed it Isaac.  

[Isaac S.]

Ah, your twisting is very smooth. I will try that trick. 

[dc-65x]

I've been waffling for a few days on the pans. I've decided to take some ideas from Team Nutley team car that deviate from the how-to article. I'm not adding a 1/16" rod to the outside edge of the pan and I'll be using the team cars pan down stops:

 

 

But first, I finally attached the pan hinges.  In 20/20 hindsight, I wish I'd moved the drop arm hinge a little farther back:

 

 

The pans and extra long pan hinges jigged up:

 

 

I don't like trying to hold little short pieces of pin tube in place so I leave them long and let the hinge tube hold them in place:

 

 

Then I can add solder to the top of the tubes and let it wick down to the pans without dragging the irons tip on the pan. Makes for a super neat and easy cleanup later on:

 

 

Pan down stops are next.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Pablo]

I really like the "wickie-wickie" trick    Brilliant, Maestro