108 replies to this topic

[dc-65x]

I have a beautiful Lancer Ferrari P4 Can-Am body. It's a #963 Super Competition version, one of the 'fabulous first four' released by Lancer as shown in the data sheet included with the body:

 

 

These bodies along with the Super Comp Matich and Chaparral 2G first show up in the Auto World Catalog in the 1968 edition.

 

 

The body is super-detailed and I think absolutely gorgeous:

 

 

 

 

 

It's also massive for a 1968 body. It's a full 3-1/4" wide at the wheel arches. This allows the body to be dropped down over the 3" wide period track width and sit down low. This is great for a pro car I want to build. But there is a problem with the body sitting over the typical 1968 3/4" front and 7/8" rear tires: 

 

 

Those small diameter tires are lost in the huge scale-size wheel openings:

 

 

 

This is where NAMRA and Jose Rodriguez Jr. come into the play. NAMRA had a 1" minimum tire diameter rule which will fill up those huge wheel openings in the body. Jose Rodriguez Jr. built the beautiful concours-winning P4 in an early 1969 NAMRA race pictured below:

 

 

So the plan for this build is my own 'inspired by' version (not a clone) of Jose's wonderful car.

 

I've scanned the period magazine race report and will post it next...

[Isaac S.]

This is gonna be good! 

[dc-65x]

It should be a fun project Isaac with a scratch built anglewinder chassis, rewound 16D style motor and a good old vac body.  

 

Here's the NAMRA race report. Click on the photos to super enlarge them:

 

 

Did you notice the address label on the magazine cover? That's the shop of Lenz motor fame.  

 

 

Nice King Cobra:

 

 

 

I like the concours lineup too:

 

[Pablo]

  Those were the days 

[FastRichard]

Sure wish someone would make those bodies again.

[Bill from NH]

REHCO at one time re-popped Lancer bodies, The Lancer bodies in a clear bag with a black & lavender label were made by REHCO. Mid America borrowed some of  the REHCO molds last year & had bodies made on them, but I don't know if he still does. We use to have Tom Andersen in Ft. Wayne, IN who re-popped some of the vintage bodies, but he stopped about 5 yrs. ago.

[Martin]

Original Lancer bodies are the best. Glad the some of the remaining bodies are in Rick's skillful hands.

 

Looking forward to seeing this one come together.

[tonyp]

FYI   The track with on NAMRA cars (center to center) was determined by the specs of the real cars.  That’s why the fronts are so wide to get a wider front track for better handling.  Same deal with wheelbase 

[dc-65x]

Thanks for the info Tony. The only thing I knew about was the 1" minimum tire diameter rule. 

[Slot Car Rod]

I remember the Lotus Europa entry looking for the unfair advantage with tires smaller than 1" in a NAMRA race.  The real car had smaller diameter wheels and tires than most.

[dc-65x]

Hi Rodney,

 

I've got the scale version of the Lancer Lotus 47 (Europa) body. I've been hoping to find the "low and wide" version forever.   

 

The first order of business are wheels, tires and wheel inserts. Starting with the front wheels and tires, I know they need to be at least 1” in diameter and as Tony's explained, they also need to be pretty wide.

 

By the time of this race NAMRA had a couple of sources for custom front tires for their cars. From the race report:

 

 

I’ve seen what look like K&B Goodyear Stock Car Special tires used in previous race reports so that what I’m using:

 

 

With the scale size tires I might as well use appropriate wheels too. This Ferrari used 15” wheels. That 15” is actually the tire’s diameter across the bead. The wheel diameter for that size tire is 1” to 1 1/2” larger.

 

15” wheels are 16” to 16 1/2” in diameter or .665” to .688” in 1/24 scale.

 

‘Russkit 15” Road Wheels’ are too small at only 14 7/8” in diameter or .620” in 1/24 scale. Their ID is also too small for the wheel inserts I’ll be using.

 

I’m using K&B collet lock wheels that I can setup as “free wheeling” and with the K&B tires mounted are a little over 1”:

 

 

With a little truing up they are 1” and ready to go:

 

 

Wheel inserts are next.......

[dc-65x]

The very distinctive wheels on the P4:

 

 

Years ago Rodney gave me this old AMT model kit. I was going to bust open the sealed parts bag for the wheels:

 

 

I stumbled across these current production Ferrari wheel inserts and the vintage model kit was spared:

 

 

I turned down an aluminum spud for a light press fit to hold the inserts. 

 

 

They are cut down to .550" diameter to fit the K&B front wheels:

 

 

The finished inserts with "mystery" knock offs ready for paint:

 

 

Now, what to do for set screw rear wheels to fit a .625" wide tire, is .660" in diameter and with a .550" ID for the wheel insert......

 

 

[Dave Crevie]

They are the Chromodora Penta-Star wheels used on many production Ferraris through the 1970's. A lot of Ferrari model kits had them.

[dc-65x]

Thanks Dave. I'm glad I found just wheel inserts to modify so I didn't have to sacrifice any model kit.

 

To make the larger diameter PRO style setscrew wheels a full 5/8" wide I started with 1" lengths of 13/16" 6061T6 aluminum round stock from OnlineMetals.com. 

 

On my little Sherline hobby lathe (from left to right) a 1/4" hole was drilled then bored out to 1/2":

 

 

The part was flipped around, cut to length and the setscrew boss turned down:

 

 

The tire mounting surface was cut to size leaving a larger diameter flange like the old wheels used to have:

 

 

The ID was cut to .550" for the wheel inserts and the little bead detail cut into the flange face:

 

 

The wheels turned out nice but the process was a lot slower and more involved using the little hobby lathe:

 

 

For tires I used some Alpha Wonder Rubber Humongous donuts I've had in my refrigerator for years. Mounting an Xacto knife in the hobby lathe made slicing the excess rubber off easy and precise. Very little grinding was needed:

 

 

Time for the motor and chassis..........

[Isaac S.]

Wow! Great job.

[dc-65x]

Thanks Isaac  

 

To power the Ferrari I decided to build up a "race motor" from a variety of parts. For the can I'm using Champion's 1-hole version of the 1968 Mabuchi can. I ditched the crappy ball bearing and replaced it with a Champion oilite bearing:

 

 

I added Versitec magnets, a Dynamic (Mura) semi-can shim and Certus top and bottom shims:

 

 

 

For and early '69 motor I have a NOS Mura second generation white "unmeltable" end bell:

 

 

The brush holders are soldered to the brush hoods:

 

 

0-80 stainless steel machine screws hold everything together:

 

 

Now that I have a setup I'm going to start on a chassis while I ruminate on an armature.......

[dc-65x]

For my chassis I'll be following Mike Morrissey's March 1969 Model Racing Journal How-to, "The New 2-Rail Chassis":

 

 

 

Should be fun.....

[dc-65x]

To start the chassis the 9/32" rear axle tube gets a 12 degree clearance cut:

 

 

The motor gets shifted around until everything clears and then soldered to the axle tube:

 

 

I think the most important part of the chassis are the half rails. Here are Mike's:

 

 

I made mine with one less bend for each of them because I like the way that looks. But thinking about it I bet that extra bend could help with tweaking the half rails to the right position:

 

 

 

The half rails attached and the chassis can really start coming together now.........

 

[Pablo]

Awesome 

Do those Dynamic angled spurs mesh well with 7 and 8T brass pinions?

[dc-65x]

Hi Pablo.

 

Dynamic has 7T and 8T pinions just of these gears. They can work really well.

 

[Pablo]

I meant "how do the spurs work"?

[dc-65x]

I've had really good luck with them Pablo. Like is says on the spur gear package, I think they are happiest at a 10 degree or more motor angle though.

 

[Pablo]

Thank you 

[dc-65x]

The inner rails are 1/16" brass rod and spaced for a 1 1/4" drop arm. The outer rails are 1/16" piano wire:

 

 

The front axle jigged up:

 

 

This early style front axle uprights with the ones behind the axle facing rearward:

 

 

End bell side rear axle brace:

 

 

And the can side brace:

 

 

The center section scrubbed down with a Scotch Brite pad and ready for a drop arm:

 

 

 

 

[dc-65x]

Here's the Team Nutley, Tonyp approved drop arm I'm using. Quality stuff:

 

 

The drop arm hinge tubes attached to the frame.......

 

 

.........and the drop arm and it's hinge tube along with relief cuts to keep the solder from flowing into the hinge:

 

 

The one piece plumber rail hinge tube:

 

 

Now the arm is ready for its plumber rails: