95 replies to this topic

[Pablo]

New in bag and original box, looks like Dynamic had a hard time deciding what to name it:

 

-"Sidewinder Chassis Kit"

-"Scratch Sidewinder Chassis Kit"

-"Bat Pan Sidewinder"

-"Sidewinder Scratch Chassis"

 

And it's not even a sidewinder LOL Plus there are multiple ways shown how to make it, including left hand or right hand drive. I chose to call mine "Dynamic Batwinder". No matter what you call it, it's an ultra cool kit. Top of the box is marked "$4.95" in pencil and bottom has some notes hand written in ballpoint pen

 

 

[Bill from NH]

Dynamic had 2 or 3 different chassis kits like this one. dc-65x built one of these kits during the past year & had pre-bent parts that didn't fit properly.

[Isaac S.]

Very cool. It'll be fun. 

[Martin]

I'm in

[Pablo]

Bill, thanks for reminding me dc-65x did one recently. I copy him a lot because imitation is the sincerest form of flattery 

 

Mine came with two sheets - a "General Instructions", and "Assembly Illustrations" which have precise drawings on paper to scale. The instructions say to lay the parts over the drawings to verify flatness and conformity. The paper is quite sturdy and smells like the late 60's big time. Not a bad smell, but unmistakably right out of the patina time machine.

 

I measured the following specs from the illustrations: WB 4.0", GL 7/8", front axle tube 2", pan widths 3", rear axle bushings 1 1/4". It can be made left or right side drive, endbell mounted. The front end can be main rail uprights attached to front axle tube, or "lay down supports" a la Tony P. style. I like the way dc-65x did his, with a buttress right behind the rear support so I'll be doing it that way.

 

Isaac, you are right, this is fun     

[Jairus]

Looks like fun!

[Richard G With]

Before jigs became available, I used to draw my chassis on velum and build on top of that.

Worked great but each was a one off because I didn't have a way to copy the drawings and paper doesn't 

survive the soldering environment.

[Pablo]

Welcome to the party, Jairus, you know I watch everything you do and love every minute of it 

[Bill from NH]

Richard, the British & some of the other Europeans built on graph paper. If you're familiar with the brass & wire retro chassis of Florida's Rick Moore, those are built on paper sketches using the vintage Champion Align-O-Jig plates. 

[Pablo]

My 7-bend main wire rail set is every bit as bad as Capt. Rick's was. I'm not going to fight it - I'm going to slice it into two pieces right here, then flatten them and re-join later

 

 

Started removing 50+ years of patina by hand sanding with 400 grit. Later I'll finish them wet with 2,000 grit

 

[Larry Horner]

Pablo, did you recently acquire this kit or is it a relic from your own vintage parts inventory? Looks like a fun project!

[Pablo]

It came in the mail from California, that's all I can say 

[dc-65x]

..............I'm going to slice it into two pieces right here, then flatten them and re-join later

 

NO FAIR!      

[Pablo]

Wheeeeeeeee!   Only took 20 minutes to make them behave on my flattest block. Made a 7/8" long piece of .063 Swiss wire to be married later

 

 

All major parts hand wet sanded with 2,000 grit

 

 

All kit bit ends smoothed and surfaces cleaned with Dremel carbon wire wheel. Stock drop arm hinge pin was corroded so I made a new one with Swiss wire 

 

 

At this point, everything is clean enough to start building. Body will probably be a vintage 3" wide Ford MK IV and motor will be a one-hole Mura can with 16D Havlicek arm    

[Pablo]

Oilites came out of the kit partially inserted and stuck hard into the (vintage) duffies  

 

 

They seem to be high quality. I sanded them with 2,000, placed them in a vice with blue tape protection, a slight "bap", and they went home no problem. Very precise and tight enough to not even need soldering. But I'm sure some will wick up there anyway   

 

 

Doggone gremlins opened up the kit and stole the Dynamic 1/2 x 3/32" pan hinge tube bits. So I made my own  

 

[Pablo]

Body is a very sexy Ford MKIV, already detailed and trimmed

 

 

Parts party:

-Fast Ones FO-300 Gold Dot matched magnets

-Champion #5006 16D pigtail shunted brushes

-Brass post protectors

-Mura endbell

-Endbell drive CCW pro-period balanced armature

-One hole Mura can

-Dynamic flag

-Dynamic 48 pitch 7/34 gears

 

[Isaac S.]

Cool parts Pablo. Love that end bell. Those are hard to come by.

[Pablo]

Vintage Mura endbells hard to come by? Stewie gets mine via his time machine

 

 

The motor looks like it will fit, so I plan to start working on it first   

 

 

"Trust, but verify" - I'm going to send the arm to Alpha for a comm swipe and balance check. Before I throw money at it, I verified the shaft was straight. Indeed, it is dead straight 

 

 

 

Can has some minor paint scratches. Big Mura bushing is pressed in, not soldered, endbell hardware is stock 16D size. I'd be a fool to mess with any of it because it all fits and it's right.

 

The only mod I plan to do is solder the stock EB hardware in place, secure the mags, and verify everything is aligned properly. Easy day 

 

[Pablo]

Trimmed some high up rotating mass off the arm on the can side. While I had it spinning I champhered and polished both ends of the shaft with 2,000 grit

 

 

Now she goes to Alpha. The service costs $8.50 and it's money well spent 

[Pablo]

Several things going on here:

 

1) All four holes in both can and endbell were already drilled (probably at the factory) precisely enough the EB can be installed in either orientation. And, they are exactly the right size to accept 0-80 Koford machine button screws. Made my job real easy.

 

2) I chose one orientation that looked a hair better, and marked "UP" with my chrome marker pen in two places. One dot up top and another atop the bushing flange. From now on, that is the way the EB will be attached.

 

3) Once all four screws were to the hilt, the bushing alignment shaft tool instantly passed the "falls through under it's own weight" test. No adjustments needed. Meaning either the bushings are sloppy enough to permit it, or the alignment is perfect. In this case, the bushings appear either brand new, or very close to it. They are both good and snug, not worn.

 

4) Post protectors shined up and installed with a microdot of CA.

 

5) EB to motor bracket screw holes tapped 2-56

 

 

[Bill from NH]

Another way to keep up & down orientation straight, one that I've used for years, is to assemble the can & endbell how I want, then use s Dremel cutoff disk to make a short, shallow groove across the top edges of the can & endbell. A carbide scriber for making a groove works too.

[Pablo]

Bill, I can't believe you want me to scribe a groove on a 50+ year old ultra rare antique motor. With a Dremel and shakey hands? No thanks  

 

Brush holder alignment was slightly off. Close, but not perfect. By simply relaxing the allen hold down screws a hair, sliding a length of .094 OD square tube in, and snugging the screws down again, she is good to go

 

 

Some vintage endbells instantly get damaged with acid flux. Especially the Tradeships, not so much the Muras. Anyway, this time I want to try a different method to keep the acid away. I gator clipped the holder to the pent roof (I'll do one at a time) and removed it carefully. Now I'll solder it away from the EB, wash, re-install, then do the other side, etc.

 

Always looking for ways to improve 

 

[Pablo]

Holder soldered to roof, wire/spring slot hogged out, lead wire tabs tinned both sides, pigtail brush wires soldered to tabs, then polished with carbon wheel and washed in a Dial/baking soda bath with a toothbrush

 

[Pablo]

My experiment to clip the holders to hoods, remove and solder away from the EB, was a failure. Good idea, but no matter how hard I tried it wouldn't retain it's proper alignment. Back to my usual method, tack solder with everything in place and nailed down, then run to the sink and wash.

 

Little chrome dots indicate brush up. Polarity marks will come later once the arm returns from Alpha and the mags are placed

 

 

 I removed the mags for the brush pre-radius so cleanup was easier. Here I have the Koford tool secured with old hubs, the brushes and Pro-Slot light red springs in place

 

 

Hand spun both directions to pre-radius the Champion pigtails. The motor is done for now until the arm returns .....

 

[Pablo]

Wheels cleaned up real nice on the Hudy with 0000 steel wool. The front tires are in good shape so I didn't mess with them, other than truing at .750 and slightly beveling the outer edges