95 replies to this topic

[Pablo]

Diary of a Madman - ready for jigging - pencil math and a calculator to verify everything is proper

 

 

-Jig motor of exact same dimensions as the one-hole Mura assembled and ready. Junk arm is secured to both bushings and EB secured to can with CA so nothing will move. Gears are Dynamic 7/34 (4.9/1 ratio)

 

-Front wheels will be .75" OD; rear wheels max width 11/16, OD .875"

 

-34T Dynamic spur will clear a little better than 1/16". I have a new Dynamic 35T on standby if it needs a little fine tuning, and it will clear also (barely) 

 

-I found out Dynamic 7T 48P brass pinions are slightly bigger than all the 7T 48P brass pinions in my stash. So the Dynamic gears must serve as "jig" gears. As soon as I get the jig motor placed they need to come out and get washed quick 

 

 

[Pablo]

The forward ends of the main rail wire set came cut a little too short. I can fix them with some clever finagling no problemo. The rear axle tube was also too short at .686". It needs to be about .720" so I made a new one

 

 

Front axle tube was too short also so I made a new one

 

 

[Pablo]

Despite careful alignment/tweaking of the bracket, it still needed a little Dremel carving to make it right with all the axle bits installed. Now she sits perfect

 

 

Bushing parts (duffies) and tube ready for soldering, jigged up and lubed with ATF to prevent solder from wicking into wrong places

 

 

Soldered, washed and dried. Alignment is perfect 

 

 

[Pablo]

Jigged up and ready for soldering

 

 

Arm came back from Alpha, excellent service

 

 

Drizzled some CA to secure the mags. Owner supplied parts were an absolute perfect match, making my job easy.  Arm spaced perfectly. I don't know how to describe it, but when I spin it by hand and it stops, it kind of "shivers" for a microsecond. Tells me it's really "happy"   

 

 

[Pablo]

New Koford donuts on vintage rims 

 

 

 

Motor assembly, piece of cake

 

 

Testing was impressive. Spins up instantly upon clicking the power supply

 

 

2 volts = 1.7 amps

3 volts = 1.5 amps

Lukewarm temperature and zero vibration. A rest, a couple drops of new oil, then I fed her some volts.

She screams. Motor is done 

[Pablo]

Final goal will be 7/8 OD, and 11/16 max width. This is just the first rough trim, then they settle and cure for a day or so

 

[Pablo]

Final trim/true of the rears at .900 OD for testing wear and clearance. I was concerned the left tire wouldn't clear the motor can at max rule width of 11/16" width. I was right

 

 

No problemo. I'll trim some meat off the insides to about 5/8" and be good to go 

[dc-65x]

Hi Pablo,

 

I think your collection of parts could very well put the build into the late 1968 time period. Then the needed 5/8" rear tire width would be perfect.  

[Pablo]

Thanks Capt. Rick, this is why I need smart people like you looking out for me. I looked at the "vintage wheel rules" document you sent me years ago. I was assuming 1969-ish, not 68. The wheels I'm using will be better at 5/8 anyway   

[dc-65x]

I don't know about "smart"......... ...........but I have always liked and remembered this ad from the July 1968 MCJ newsletter when Russkit showed their low and wide version of the Ford Mk 4 body:

 

 

Very cool  

[Pablo]

"May I have it?" (Edo B.) LOL 

[Don Weaver]

What ever happened to Edo?

[Pablo]

He's fine, busy making films with pretty women, playing on his home slot track, and tearing up the foothills on a Ducati

[Pablo]

Now we have clearance, Clarence

 

[Pablo]

Back to my post #14 where I tried to make the wire rails as true to the plans as possible. I knew they were going to be too short up front. And I knew the more I tweaked them, the weaker they would be.

 

In the back of my walnut size brain I kept considering just bending my own. I know I can do better, especially making them in two pieces. And it would be sweet to use Swiss plated wire.

 

That time has come. Once I set the jig pins for them I realized there is only one way to do it right - bend my own. In this photo they may appear good, but they aren't even close to my standards

 

 

I'll use them as templates and bend up some plated Chicagoland main rails. Bracket tacked to tube and wires will conform to it

 

[Pablo]

Traditional wisdom is never bend wire more than once. My new right side rail bends (!) the rule a little - two bends. The rear end will get a "U" connector

 

 

It's long enough to make the "Alternate" front axle tube assembly correct

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Pablo]

Pablo rails tacked to bracket. Cross piece up front is just a dummy temp to secure alignment

 

[Larry Horner]

Looking good Pablo! So dumb question #1 (I can't promise there won't be more): What is Mike's wire plated with? I aways assumed it was just pre-tinned but this looks to have a brownish tint. Is it plated with brass or bronze?

[Pablo]

You'd have to ask Swiss. I'm not an expert on it. No, it's not simply "pre-tinned". It's much more complicated than that. All I know is, it saves me from having to tin, it's super quality, always straight, and stronger than standard wire. Here is the original product announcement link:

 

Nickel-plated music/piano wire from Chicagoland Raceway - The Parts Counter - Slotblog

[Don Weaver]

As the header says for the announcement of "Nickel-Plated music/piano wire from..."

[Pablo]

See Larry, I told you the smartest slotters hang out on "Pablo's Builds" subforum   

[Pablo]

Running into the exact same problems Rick and Tony P. described. I'm copying heavily from dc-65x' version. Improvise, adapt, overcome   

 

Left brass outer rail is stock from the kit. Right brass outer rail, I had to make my own. So far everything is just tack soldered and left dirty

 

 

 

 

[Half Fast]

Interesting build PW.

 

What is a carbon polishing wheel?

 

Cheers

[Pablo]

Dremel attachment

 

[Pablo]

.032 X 1/4" brass strip crosspiece secured to rails with Koford silver solder. When you need to see when it melts and when it dries, this is the stuff to use. First cleanup