118 replies to this topic

[Bill from NH]

Some model builders use that model Paasche. I've only heard positive things said about that brush from its owners. Of course, there are naysayers who will say negatives about any single action brush. I used a single action Binks from 1970-2005, mostly with various lacquers. I was able to do good work over the years.

 

I would bet that Badger still has repair parts & gaskets that would get your black brush into good operating condition, if you wanted to. The gaskets on a brush that old are probably o-rings. They are on my old Binks.

[Mark Onofri]

BillNH, I've torn that thing apart soooooo many times that, for the $20 U.S. presidents I spent, I'm ok with retiring it.
Trying to put the finishing touches on this Ferrari . I'd like to test it tonight.
I'm going to deviate from no soldering. I have to change the #12thhn lead wirers to something more appropriate.

[Mark Onofri]

The paasche was $20.00

[Bill from NH]

You got it for an excellent price. In the past. it was $30-$35 around here, haven't looked lately. I only mentioned fixing the Badger to have as a back-up in case you needed it sometime. I kept my Binks as a backup, then a few years ago a new Aztek appeared on here for $30. Now I have two backups plus a new Paasche that's never been used,

[Mark Onofri]

So much for a easy build. I was wondering how it could be soooooo difficult to mount the body. Fortunately , for me, my last brain cell is holding on for dear life.
Can you see the problem? I know BillNH can. Isaac , do you see it?

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[Mark Onofri]

Cheap imports.
Can we just make like this didn't happen? Uh

[Mark Onofri]

As if I don't have enough things to keep me awake at night.
In order to expedite this operation, I'm going back to the first chassis. I'll show you why I didn't use it. It will require a little more front weel trickery. It's simple ( I've dun tunked it out for you ).
Soon a new repore

[Isaac S.]

I see a couple problems.

The rear end is tweaked, rears are too wide, motor needs screwed in, gears need work.

[Bill from NH]

Mark, get yourself one of the ceramic honeycomb soldering plates & some pins so you can check a chassis for straightness, flatness, & squareness before you assemble anything on it. 18 ga. nails for a nailing gun make good pins, as does .047 piano wire. Total cost, about $25 vs $100+ for a corian chassis jig. One is especially useful for checking brass/wire chassis & repairing them too. You can even solder with a torch on them.

[Mark Onofri]

Out of square would have sufficed Isaac. I took it for granted that it was square but, I should have known. If it's b&w and by Parma, it's wacked from the get go.
BillNH, I have a custom made chassis jig, I've just been trying to keep this build as simple as possible. The introduction of any tools/equipment utter than a beginner might have, was beyond the scope of this thread.
Any hoo, in a way, I'm glad that these issues are happening to me,in this thread. It gives me (and any one else who wants to participate) a platform to show ways, SIMPLE WAYS, to rectify the situation at hand.

[Mark Onofri]

Guys keep in mind, this is Slot Blog. Not Lawrence Livermore laboratories. Any input that anyone can give to make this build simple is greatly appreciated.
SIMPLE is SIMPLE.

[Bill from NH]

The simplest way is to give it to someone else to build. I'm not volunteering. 

[Mark Onofri]

You have been drafted. No running to Canada, borders are blocked. You should receive the package in a hour.

[Mark Onofri]

I'm going to use the 1st chassis. Only thing is, it has a 3/32 axel. The tyers are 1/8. I've come up with a simple solution but, I'm pressed for time at the moment.
More later.

[Bill from NH]

Get bushings for 1/8" axles that fit in that chassis. Simpler than using adapters in spur gear & rear wheels. 

[Mark Onofri]

It took longer for the soldering iron to heat up then it did to straighten out the chassis. Here it is with some of its lineage. In the right front corner of the LMP car you can see my solution for the axel diameter difference. Aluminum tubing for a bushing. I'll save that for another more complicated build. I'll put the final touches on this tomorrow. Then track test it at speedy's fast lane and solvay New York.

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[Mark Onofri]

It's a good thing that I don't have a schedule. Just when I thought I was done.......

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[Mark Onofri]

In order to get the free weeling action, I soldered a axel spacer from the organ donor car to the axel. I know,I know, but if you don't have a soldering iron you can use super glue. I've also switch the incedious #12thhn leed wires to TQ's.

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[Mark Onofri]

I've been accused of being a deviant so, I'll deviate once again.
In the photos are my (2) two options. I'm going to try the weighted guide first. I don't really want to gum up the chassis & it has a habit of falling off.

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[Mark Onofri]

To clarify the last post, I was referring to the self sticky lead. It always seems to not stick unless I solder it in place.

[Bill from NH]

Use a bottle of rubber cement. The lead won't come off until you're ready to take it off or until it sits for 10-12 years. Another good glue is gorilla snort, aka 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive. .

[Mark Onofri]

Thanks BillNH been there done that. Don't want to gunk up the chassis.
I've got a few more of these b&w chassis. Should post them here?

[Bill from NH]

Do you put the lead on with a plumber's torch? Soldered lead doesn't stick to all chassis materials, the glues I mentioned will. 

[Mark Onofri]

😂 I tried that once, and only once. I was 12 ish?
Actually, I solder the edge to a small tinned area of the chassis. BillNH, I have a jar of rubber cement on my bench.l though it might have been in one of the pics. When I wall a car, I wall a car. Armstrong'sContact cement ®, Eastman's 510 or 810 adhesive ® they work but, solder is quicker, usually .

[Mark Onofri]

I had everything loaded in the truck and moved to Beverly............
Ummmmm, to go to the track for racing and testing but before I knew it it was 2 late. I'll try Thursdsy