28 replies to this topic

[crazyphysicsteacher]

So here I go. The new Mid-America controller looks like it will fill the space left by Third Eye. But, I have questions.
 
1) How soft is the trigger pull? Does it compare to a Third eye or a Carsteen? This is important because of loss of strength in my hands. And those who have raced with me can attest.
 
2) I heard there were issues with the USB coming unplugged. Has this been addressed? If so, great but still an important point.

That is all I have at the moment as I have to look past my Third Eye and find a new or spare for races.
 
Thank you in advance for any info and help.

[Dominator]

Chris,

 

I tried one this weekend at PJ. Very simple to use and good range for sensitivity. Granted I tried it on a high-speed track I was turning the same times as with my Carsteen. I think the USB potentially coming loose is a simple fix.

 

For the price it's one of the best values out there. I would be interested to try one again on a flatter style track.

[crazyphysicsteacher]

Thanks, Dom. That was the type of review I needed.

[blue&orange]

I was able to try one on the Trains & Lanes 220' mostly flat track and found it very friendly. I expressed concern about the USB coming unplugged in a heat-of-the-moment event as soon as I saw it, but, as Dom said, there are possible solutions (i.e.duct tape!).

[rmjlmartin]

I have yet to try one, so I can't comment yet on the feel or performance, but my local raceway has one on order, so hopefully I'll be able to soon.

 

It reminds me very much of the JayGee Linear 200 controller that I have, which also uses a USB cable for a cord. You can see in the pictures in the Mid-America Facebook POST about the new controller that there are a pair of holes in the pcb, one on either side of the USB port. The JayGee PCB has those holes, too, and you can run a zip tie through them and around the cable end to tie the cable to the PCB. It's probably not absolutely foolproof, but it should help minimize the risk of accidentally unplugging it.

 

[crazyphysicsteacher]

Thanks, guys. The cord issue was just something I picked up from a few people that mist have been on preproduction. I am not worries about it too much as there are always solutions. My biggest concern is the trigger throw. The Dubick has a nice throw but I like my cars too much to risk them with that controller and I have a Difalco but the trigger is just way too stiff. I have tried to lighten it but I would rather find a whole better solution.

[Eddie Fleming]

Adjusting the trigger pull is just part of controller setup and maintenance. In the Third Eye instructions there is a big section on adjusting wiper contact and feel The trigger pull strength is adjustable in several ways. Just be sure you maintain a good Brake contact.

 

If you like the Third Eye so much it still works and there are an untold number of them that will work and can be serviced for years to come.

 

Good luck with whatever you do.  

[Jim Difalco]

Thanks, guys. The cord issue was just something I picked up from a few people that mist have been on preproduction. I am not worries about it too much as there are always solutions. My biggest concern is the trigger throw. The Dubick has a nice throw but I like my cars too much to risk them with that controller and I have a Difalco but the trigger is just way too stiff. I have tried to lighten it but I would rather find a hole better solution.

 

Crazy, my older controllers used a Parma spring which is why you may find it stiff for your hands. My new controllers have a much lighter spring. Email me your address and I will send you one.

 

Ace Hardware has one particular spring that has a very light feel. It is about 3 inches long so you can cut it down to the length and stiffness you need. Too light a spring tension and you may not get good contact on your brake post.

[team burrito]

It reminds me very much of the JayGee Linear 200 controller that I have, which also uses a USB cable for a cord. You can see in the pictures in the Mid-America Facebook POST about the new controller that there are a pair of holes in the pcb, one on either side of the USB port. The JayGee PCB has those holes, too, and you can run a zip tie through them and around the cable end to tie the cable to the PCB. It's probably not absolutely foolproof, but it should help minimize the risk of accidentally unplugging it.

 

Glue it with silicone.
 

[crazyphysicsteacher]

 
Crazy, my older controllers used a Parma spring which is why you may find it stiff for your hands. My new controllers have a much lighter spring. Email me your address and I will send you one.
 
Ace Hardware has one particular spring that has a very light feel. It is about 3 inches long so you can cut it down to the length and stiffness you need. Too light a spring tension and you may not get good contact on your brake post.

 

Thanks Jim. I have already started to loose track of when I buy stuff, it all seems to melt together, so it very well could be the parma spring. I will give the one from ace a try, thank you for the offer.

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[rmjlmartin]

I got to try one at my local raceway last night, and I would say that the trigger pull feels similar to the current Difalco controllers. Overall, I'd say it's a nice enough controller, and seemed to work well.

 

It has a very square, hard-edged trigger, though, that I think would get uncomfortable over the course of a race, particularly if you're like me and can get caught up in the race and put a death grip on it. It does look like a Difalco or Parma trigger would fit, so If I got one, I'd probably swap it out and install the Difalco trigger pin and bearing kit. That kit is a great upgrade for any controller that doesn't already have something similar (thanks Jim!), and will let you get a smoother, lighter trigger feel.

[Clyde Romero]

We have 1 racer who bought one and he loves it, no issues. 

[crazyphysicsteacher]

I got to try one at my local raceway last night, and I would say that the trigger pull feels similar to the current Difalco controllers. Overall, I'd say it's a nice enough controller, and seemed to work well.
 
It has a very square, hard-edged trigger, though, that I think would get uncomfortable over the course of a race, particularly if you're like me and can get caught up in the race and put a death grip on it. It does look like a Difalco or Parma trigger would fit, so If I got one, I'd probably swap it out and install the Difalco trigger pin and bearing kit. That kit is a great upgrade for any controller that doesn't already have something similar (thanks Jim!), and will let you get a smoother, lighter trigger feel.

 

I upgraded my third eye with that trigger pin and bearings as soon as I got the controller. The setup makes it very easy to adjust the side play in the controller.

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[Tim Wood]

Is this the DD721 Trigger pin kit. And will this work for a Third Eye Fet 3 Controller.

 

Thanks Tim

[rmjlmartin]

I upgraded my third eye with that trigger pin and bearings as soon as I got the controller. The setup makes it very easy to adjust the side play in the controller.

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I've installed it  on all of my non-Difalco controllers that are used regularly, including the two Third Eye Hitman controllers (Hitmen?) that my two sons prefer.

 

For those who aren't familiar with it, being able to adjust the side to side play out of the trigger will let you adjust the wiper on the trigger so there's less tension against the resistor, or wiper board, as the case may be, and still maintain a good connection, which will give you a smoother, lighter trigger pull.

 

Yes, Tim, it is the DD721 kit, and as far as I know, it should work on any Third Eye controller, and probably about anything that uses a 1/8 diameter pivot with 1/4" outside diameter oilites in the trigger.

 

Whether or not you prefer Difalco controllers, Jim Difalco makes very good quality controllers, and some great upgrades that work on other controllers as well.

[crazyphysicsteacher]

Is this the DD721 Trigger pin kit. And will this work for a Third Eye Fet 3 Controller.
 
Thanks Tim

 

Yes. It works with every controller I have worked on and it allows much better adjustment. Just make sure to add a steel axle spacer on each side to be a thrust bushing and also to adjust the position of the trigger.

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[Jim Difalco]

Yes. It works with every controller I have worked on and it allows much better adjustment. Just make sure to add a steel axle spacer on each side to be a thrust bushing and also to adjust the position of the trigger.

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Racers, do not add an axle spacer to each side of the ball bearings in my DD721 trigger kit. My trigger ball bearings have a built in extended inner race so no washers are needed. Make sure the ball bearings are seated flat against the trigger by applying pressure to the outer flange, never pushing on the inner race. If you upgrade to my trigger you will notice the ball bearings press into the pivot firmly. If you have a Red Fox or even a Parma trigger the bearings will just fall out for a sloppy installation

 

Then add the nyloc adjustment nut and carefully tighten until there is zero side play. A gentle push sideways on the middle of the trigger will let you easily find any side play that needs to be adjusted. Last is to check your wiper arm tension. Since the ball bearings remove any trigger side play your will usually have to lighten up the wiper arm tension compared to when the controller had oilites and a lot more side play.

[Tim Wood]

 

I've installed it  on all of my non-Difalco controllers that are used regularly, including the two Third Eye Hitman controllers (Hitmen?) that my two sons prefer.

 

For those who aren't familiar with it, being able to adjust the side to side play out of the trigger will let you adjust the wiper on the trigger so there's less tension against the resistor, or wiper board, as the case may be, and still maintain a good connection, which will give you a smoother, lighter trigger pull.

 

Yes, Tim, it is the DD721 kit, and as far as I know, it should work on any Third Eye controller, and probably about anything that uses a 1/8 diameter pivot with 1/4" outside diameter oilites in the trigger.

 

Whether or not you prefer Difalco controllers, Jim Difalco makes very good quality controllers, and some great upgrades that work on other controllers as well.

Thanks  For the info. I already have a upgraded Difalco controller as well as a few other controllers. Depends on what I'm racing. Thanks again.

[crazyphysicsteacher]

For those still wondering, I have purchased one.
As such, it is a very good controller. No choke but more than enough adjustment in the throttle curve to correct for a motor for the majority of people.
The only issue I have is with the brakes. I find them to be a little weaker at full than my 3rd eye and have a smaller range of usable adjustment for me. All of my brake adjustment was able to be done in the first number range. If I went farther, the car just seemed lose all brake to me.
But, I will take this controller over a difalco just on the throttle curve adjustments alone.

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[Bucky]

I believe controller preference is subjective, but I am curious about your observation of the MAs throttle curve compared to a Difalco. Specifically, newer Difalcos have traction control and interchangeable chips/resistors, if needed, that make throttle curve options seem nearly limitless. Is there something specific you like about the MA over the Difalco in that regard?

[crazyphysicsteacher]

The throttle curve can be adjusted from a linear curve to a parabolic shape. Not something easily done with just a chip on the difalco. And I have tried to make a curved difalco chip. The problem I had was the chip was only good for a specific set of motors. I could not use the same chip for a stomp womp motor as I did for a proslot 16D. It was too slow for the 16D and just about right for the womp.
The mid America I was even able to adjust the curve during the race to better match lane conditions without changing the base sensitivity. Kinda how you can adjust a third eye with the throttle switches without needing large sensitivity changes mid race.

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[crazyphysicsteacher]

Alright, have a beef with this controller. Only one, brakes. I know it is a pwm setup with fets but I like brakes. The upper range of the brake range is fairly narrow before it drops off quickly for me. That is just because of the motors I run, sealed 16D and tin can fk motors, but the range is small for me. It would be good if the upper range was spread a little more out on the dial. Otherwise, I like it.

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[scooter_trasher]

Alright, have a beef with this controller. Only one, brakes. I know it is a pwm setup with fets but I like brakes. The upper range of the brake range is fairly narrow before it drops off quickly for me. That is just because of the motors I run, sealed 16D and tin can fk motors, but the range is small for me. It would be good if the upper range was spread a little more out on the dial. Otherwise, I like it.

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Double or triple the diameter  of your brake knob, it will give more swing and perceived fine tuning. 

[dalek]

Alright, have a beef with this controller. Only one, brakes. I know it is a pwm setup with fets but I like brakes. The upper range of the brake range is fairly narrow before it drops off quickly for me. That is just because of the motors I run, sealed 16D and tin can fk motors, but the range is small for me. It would be good if the upper range was spread a little more out on the dial. Otherwise, I like it.

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It sounds like Third Eye controllers.

 

My Third Eye Hitman has excellent brakes when set to max (10 on the dial).  

 

When turning down the brakes, there is not a huge change until you get down to about 4 on the dial then the braking suddenly drops off a bunch when the brake knob is turned down just slightly below 4.

[Wannabe80]

revive and old thread i know, not much out there on this controller.

 

I have just bought one of the 1350A mid america controllers.

 

Looking forward to using it in the coming weeks, as it is a birthday present for myself.

 

I currently only run a old vintage mura20d on a parma flexi kar and gemini brushless flexi.

 

Currently i am using an older difalco from late 2000's and it is ok with the mura motor but not so much on the brushless.

 

Hoping this new controller will be much better with the brushless cars.

 

Any tips on tuning it.