86 replies to this topic

[DeanJ]

I was looking forward to seeing your hardbody clear coat method.
Sometimes I use Mop n Glo just to keep the outside waterslide decals from damage.
Maybe you have a better way 

Hi Pablo, yes there’s a method of course! lol but I use NoName 2K Clear from Spraygunner at the moment. I also have 2k’s from other manufacturers, but I want to run out of NN first. It’s really good stuff!

 

I spray a medium coat 2 times with about 5 minutes between coats, then a heavy coat and let it sit for 4 days before a final sand and polish.

[Pablo]

Wow that's pricey for a guy who makes one or 2 hardbodies a year.

 

Then slams 'em into the wall every week 

 

Can you recommend something simpler for just protecting the decals and adding a nice shine?

[DeanJ]

Alclad ALC-310 Klear Kote Gloss works well.

[DeanJ]

Well I completed my first race, although the body was unfinished, at least I know how it performs out of the gate. Here's the standings...

 

 

 

We were the slow bunch, the fast racers did 45 more laps on average and raced after us.

 

I borrowed a Third Eye FET controller for the race because my Slot.It SCP2 just isn't really made for these cars and has essentially no brakes.

 

I have to complete the body, and after riding someones lane during practice it flew off the track and smashed into the wall, breaking the rear section off. I need to properly affix the rear section to the main, the gap-filling CA didn't do it. I'll use acetone to get it back down to the plastic on both parts and use thin fiberglass sheet to make it one. I'll extend the FG to the exhaust and rebuild that part too because it broke off.

There's just no way these bodies will survive a full trigger blast down the straight and into the wall, something has to give!

 

Before the last heat I found my chassis was broken in the rear below the pinion. I need to investigate it and make adjustments. Pics will come of course!

[Pablo]

Alclad ALC-310 Klear Kote Gloss works well.

 

Thanks Dean, and good job on your podium finish 

[DeanJ]

Thanks Pablo, but the race last Saturday didn't turn out so well for me. Long story short, in Heat 6 the car started to slow down and I thought the motor was starting to fail. In Heat 7 it came to a crawl and one of the guys took a look at it, the spur gear came loose. I had lost roughly 25-30 laps by that point over the 2 heats, so I ended up 5th I think.

 

After the races one of the Old Timers was impressed with my car and took a close look at it - he pointed out what was "wrong" with it and what I should tweak. First order of operation is to lower it - it's about 2mm too high!! I remember thinking I don't want to fail tech inspection for it being too low when I was building it. I guess I overcompensated!

He trued down the rear tires a bit, and I need to reduce the diameter of the front by about 1.7mm. I need to change the braid for something thinner, what I'm using is too thick. And lastly I need to put small flat spots on the axle for the spur gear and the wheels.

Ohh, and I still need to complete the body!

 

I'll follow up with pics as I get to making these updates. Cheers!

[slotcarone]

All good suggestions except the flat spots on the axle. Not needed for this type of racing/motor and realistically unless you have a machine to do the flats it does not work well. In 19 years racing retro I have never used a flatted axle and I am pretty sure most of the other racers are not either.

[Bill from NH]

Mike, I'd be the exception. I've used flatted axles since the days of the Champion wheel collets. I used my Unimat with 2 or 3 Dremel cutoff disks. 

[slotcarone]

Mike, I'd be the exception. I've used flatted axles since the days of the Champion wheel collets. I used my Unimat with 2 or 3 Dremel cutoff disks. 

 

Like I said if done on a machine like the flatted axles that you buy, they work but cut by hand with a Dremel the wheel will loosen up. Ask me how I know this! LOL 

[Bill from NH]

When I ran wing cars in the 70s & 80s, I used splined set screws. I don't think those have been available for 20-25 years. I also used knurled set screws when they were available.

[bbr]

routinely tighten all set screws before the race starts 

[Bill from NH]

Mike, I always did that. I recall breaking rear axles, but not having a tire or gear loosen up.