221 replies to this topic

[Michael Rigsby]

Jairus, just use a small 3/8" long piece of 1/8" brass tubing at the front and rear of the motor where it fits to the chassis, and solder the motor at the top where it butts up against the motor bracket. It'll take a heckuva hit before that motor comes out doing it that way. I never liked soldering a motor directly to the flexi chassis as the tubing has a little give to it and actually holds the motor in better during collisions.

Looks like you and the family are having fun, and that's most important. Race on, bro.

Michael Rigsby

[Jairus]

Thanks guys... will do prior to next race. Not touching the car until then though.... I like the idea of allowing it to sit and get "use" to it's parts. More than a few suggested that constent fiddling only generates more trouble than it eliminates and that car ran near PERFECT until the motor brokeloose. Heck, I was in a solid 3rd place prior to that! Lost 10 laps just before they finally called "track" and shut off the power.

[68Caddy]

I sure hope that you are still pulling the trigger my friend?
Not seen any reports lately ?

Nesta

[Jairus]

Only race every four weeks.
Next race will be NASCAR on Sunday the 20th, so not a lot happening till then...

[68Caddy]

Good Luck
I'm glad you are hanging in there and your work is incredible.

Nesta

[NY Nick]

I am still reading your race reports, keep them coming.
Do you know what body is on the car on the orange lane, looks like a 70s wing car body?

[Jairus]

I should remember it... I painted it!

McLaren M8 I believe and indeed it is mid 70's MAC body! I purchased that from Electric Dreams a while back, but is sadly no longer available.
Jeremy and I started out wing racing with vintage bodies but I wanted to win so went with bloggers suggestion of switching over to a smaller aero-wing type body from O.S. Jeremy keeps using his vintage body and it seems to be working for him because he managed a 3rd place last wing race.

My yellow car is getting bent up really bad. One more race and I will be either switching back to the first vintage body or painting up a new wing body.

Next race is Sunday the 20th... NASCAR! Going with the ProSlot motor and the old beatup Taurus body for that race. Report Sunday night or Monday morning.

[Pablo]

Do you still think it's stupid ?
I don't

[Jairus]

Never did... but on this forum flexi's do not get much credit. Thus the title of the thread.

Think I should change it?

[Pablo]

Yes.

[Precision-Slotcars]

Thanks for changing the thread title.
There are those of us who do enjoy flexi racing.
Dave

[Mark C.]

i agree with dave

[macman]

The original Parma Flexi-car was the salvation of the industry in the 80s... Slots would not be still a viable hobby without the class... I admit I don't like the 4inch classes as much as I once did, but they are cheap and handle MUCH better than a womp!!!
Keep on racing Jairus we enjoy what you are doing...

[Jairus]

Jeremy and I hit the track yesterday. Next Sunday is our NASCAR race and we were testing and practicing and adjusting. No beer and no fish and chips this trip. We did it on the cheap hoping to save money for next weekend.

NASCAR race is to be Tech'd for the first time during this program. All cars will pass tech or receive a warning and not be able to race next race. Jimmy is happy because he has always kept his cars legal or so he says. Jeff and Carrie purchased two new chassis since Jeff likes to play with his Dremel.... and chassis must comply with IRRA rules. (The wing class will remain somewhat open)
I purchased a new motor because I wanted the very same equipment as the competition. Went with the Pro-Slot PS 2001 Speed FX which is what Jimmy, Jeff and Carrie are using. Seal tape is not required so I am pulling it apart, soldering the bearing and aligning the brush tubes (which were horrible attached). My Parma Super 16D works great now that I shimmed up the magnets but even so - running against a PS2001 it still only manages a 5.1 lap time. Mark's car can do a 4.6 with his PS2001 and he out pulls me on the back straight even though my JK treated tires allow better cornering. Nobody else will be running treated JK's. All are sporting either Parma tunas or Alpha full width rubber. I think the JK (NO GLUE) rubber might be my saviour this race!


Which brings me to the very reason for this post..... one of the brush spring screws was either drilled crooked or bent. Of the three motors on the wall this one had the best arm with the least amount of loopy winds and least amount of balancing holes.
No Outlaw arm allowed this race, just the cheap Chinese arm. Eventually I will send this puppy to John for com tying but there is no time before the next race.

Suggestions?

[Gus Kelley]

Hey Jairus! Says a lot for quality control. Gus

[Hworth08]

THe endbell hardware appears a mess unless there is an attemp to add timing through the brush hoods. I'd apply everything I could from part 3 from this post:

http://slotblog.net/...p?showtopic=777

[Jairus]

I wondered where that thread was Don! Thanks and will do!

[Bill from NH]

If you buy another of these motors, get one with all the drill holes from balancing. These ones spin up quicker than the others. Locally, I've seen several loaded with drill holes & each was faster than the ones with less. On another note, Proslot has been experiencing a problem lately with these Chinese 16D arms not having enough epoxy on them, so they prematurely blow or burn up. This problem has caused the New England Championship Cup flex series to stop using these motors for their handout motor classes.

[Jairus]

Would not logic dictate that fewer holes would make better arm? More material makes a stronger magnet! The windings them selves are not the magnet and a bunch of holes suggests a poor wind and poor attempt to balance. The best arms are the ones that do not need to be balanced, well duh!

[Champion 507]

Jairus,

To me, common sense and logic would dictate that the fewer/smaller drill balancing holes there are in an armature, the better. But I've had several friends tell me that some of their best arms look like swiss cheese...so I don't know.

I do remember when those motors first came out there was one at the track that looked like swiss cheese and it didn't even get totally broken in before it self destructed. But that's been a few years ago.

[Michael Rigsby]

Jairus, I'm going to go with Bill H on this one. More often than not, the Chinese ProSlot or Kelly arms with the most drill holes or sloppiest winds, or both, are the fastest ones on the track. It has to do with the least amount of mass on the arm, and the windings getting closer to the magnets. By all means, blueprint the can, solder in the bushing, and blueprint the endbell making sure to use super glue to put in the endbell bushing so it won't spin.

I haven't had much problem with the regular SpeedFX 16D throwing wires, unlike the S16D which throws them at the drop of a hat, but they do short out wires on the stack.

Oh, and use a pair of Gold Dust brushes. The stock ones are too soft and won't last very long.

Good Luck!

Michael Rigsby

[Jairus]

I received a wealth of info on setting up and repairing the PS 16D motor. So far am about 1/2 way through the tips and am very happy. Thank you very much to all the wonderful tips and tricks. Even if I don't agree with all the logic, the help is much appreciated and will add more to my psyche than anything else could. Now, can hardly wait for Sunday!

[mdiv]

Eeeeeeek!

Jairus, one of your posts mentioned Sunday the 20th was the Nascar race...did they change it to the 27th or (I hope not!!!!) did you miss your race?

Please tell us they changed the date!

Mikey

[Jairus]

Wow Mikey, good catch! Yes, Jeremy and I both had the wrong date in mind. A quick call to the track mgr. and we corrected our calendars. Race day is indeed the 27th. That is the problem when races are 4 weeks apart... and I cannot remember anything unless it is written down.

[mdiv]

Jairus,

Good, so happy to hear that! Good luck this Sunday!

Mikey