159 replies to this topic

[Jean-Michel Piot]

From now on, after the reparation or preparation of parts, we will see the enhancement and building.

This does not always only imply the body, as we will see now with the Chaparral 2A.

Indeed, a good knowledge of the chassis, engines, wheels, axles etc. may lead to some modifications. I must precise that we will only consider the Cox parts, to make a possibly modified but 100% Cox car.

Furthermore, we have to start with it because the technical choices of the frame and rolling trains may induce modifications or enhancement of the body.

May-be do you remember the Cheetah I made with a full interior… This could only be possible because of the existence of some aftermarket Cox parts, a chassis for the TT-X 150 engine that gave more room for the interior.

Here, I decided to make a somewhat special 2A with Ackermann steering (with Chaparral wheels at the four corners, not only at the rear) mounted on a Team-Modified (adjustable) chassis.

First of all, the Ackermann steering with Chaparral wheels.

At first, I considered the extra-narrow Chaparral wheels, just as used in the RTR Lotus and Ford GT that were sold by Cox with narrow wheels (always those of the Ford GT).

I chose not to modify the Chaparral Extra Narrow wheels for them to suit, but rather modify the Ackermann steering, so the standard nuts could be used. We will see that.

But first of all the Ackermann also had to be modified to be placed a little backward.

This was done thanks to the cuttings indicated in red in the next picture and to give more room for the mounting screw forward. as indicated in green:



This implied to make the tie rod narrower (otherwise it would touch the frame)

We see this in the following picture, with a standard Ackermann as a reference:



The whole, from an upper view:



I also had to cut the nylon/plastic poor axles and had to drill a hole for a threaded axle (I used the part that maintains the drop arm in the standard chassis).

Here you see the first drilled hole, a small one to be sure the definitive one will be right in the center.



Then you can place the threaded axles.



Next step was to use the brass tube also used for the drop arm (two of them, of course, but in the next picture there is only one) because its internal and external diameters are perfect for that application.





One can then simply cut at the right dimension the “axle” and the tube, always using an electric drill, so the tube has the size of the wheel in its transverse size and the axle is long enough for the nut to be put on.



Then I found out that the standard front wheels would perfectly suit the modified Ackermann steering !





Nice indeed. And it runs great too !

Now the incidence on the body: Using an Ackerman steering imposed to slightly enlarge the wheel arches and the front valence, this only in front of the wheels.

About the choice of the Team-Modified chassis and its possible consequences on the body:

All 2As see their interior cut at the front end of the floor, this to give room to a transverse element and the mounting of the drop arm in the case of the standard chassis. This gap has no use in the case of the Team Modified version, though the body remained unchanged in 1967 when Cox issued a new version of the 2A kit with the said chassis.

On the right of the next picture, we see that the floor is cut for the standard chassis. On the left, with the Team Modified chassis, the gap has no further use.



Now, I’ve always considered that the cut of the floor for the chassis was not esthetic.

I then decided to cement a styrene element to complete the floor and use some epoxy mastic to integrate it the best I could.










Here is the result with the painted body where you can also see other modifications that will be detailed soon.

On the next two pictures, with some attention, you can see that there is little more room for the tires in front of the wheels.





But with a more classic view, you won’t guess it…

[TSR]

Sacrebleu! Quel Ackermann!
J-M, once again, nicely done!

[Jean-Michel Piot]

As we have already seen a painted 2A body, let’s see the modifications I brought and how I proceed.

It is not only a mater of skill or techniques, but also a strategy as for the way to build, that may be different to the one of the Cox building instructions. Indeed, for me the building is greatly conditioned by the strategy for painting, having in mind what may give the best result.

We will see examples of that for the 2A and the 2E. The 2D requires no special strategy, as its body is in one part (OK, two with the roof air duct).

As we are talking of painting and modification, the very next step is to define what car you will do: a fantasy one, even if typical of the car, or try to be close to an historic one.

Even if I sometime do a fantasy livery (like the yellow Team-Modified Cheetah that was a kind of tribute to Chris Clark’ style which I appreciate a lot) I generally try to be faithful to the original.

Because Cox designers themselves copied a genuine car, It is easier and more close to the standard body to find pictures of the very same car.

I will not insist on the sometimes difficult task to get all the pictures you need, throughout Internet, the books, the pictures you may order to a photograph who took pictures of the car, just like I did for several Lotus 30 and 40.

Let’s start with the 2A.

Cox reproduced the 2A of the Sylverstone 12 hours race of 26-27 March 1965.

2 cars were engaged, #3, the winner of the race, and #4 that finished 22nd.

Studying pictures of the genuine car and compare them to the model will make you decide what modifications or detailing can be made.














Now, let’s see in details the modifications and strategy for building and painting:

As seen before, I considered that the transparent part for the head light covers and its mounting as taken in sandwich between the body and the front valence was a poor system.

To have a nice smooth continued surface for the nose, you have to glue the front valence and use bonding means such as epoxy mastic before painting.

Then the genuine transparent part cannot be mounted.

By the way it is too thick so no “seal” can be painted from the inside.

At last, the way the transparent Cox part joined the body and fills the holes is far from perfect.

I will not insist on this, we have already seen how I modified the mounting and created transparent individual covers for all the lights.



Here I still have to create the fourth transparent part.

I also decided to fill up the 4 holes that are dedicated to the mounting of the windscreen.

Here we see where were the 2 front ones.



Why ? it is always better when not really necessary to remove the mounting pins and polish the surface. This way you will have a neat seal that you will paint and only thereafter you will be able to glue the screen with wood cement.

Different elements have visible hinges on the genuine car. There are door hinges and 3 others for the respective 2 tank filler caps trap doors and the last one for the trap on the front bonnet.

The hinges are made with a metal rod, put against a ruler in order to engrave lines with a knife.

I then use a thin round file in order to enlarge the separation line that will receive the hinge.



Depending on whether or not the hinge will be painted or not, you glue the metal rod before painting or after.

Here, for the 2A, the hinges will be painted.

Now the seal around the screen.

The genuine one is not regular, there’s quite a mess at the door level. Moreover on the genuine cars the screen is bolt on the body and you see the white paint from underneath (no black rubber seal on the 12 hours of Sylverstone cars).

I then decided to “integrate” this poor and non-realistic seal in the body by filling the gap with epoxy mastic and filing or sanding the un-useful and imperfect embossment at the upper side of the doors.



















The “seal” will be figured out by painting a white line from underneath the screen and by creating rivets.

Here is a test. With some adjustment, there will be no gap between the screen and the body and it will be OK.





The air apertures of the 2 rear wings have to be filed to have an harmonious shape and be faithful to original car. The area of the roll bar mounting also has to be modified …






The front bonnet aperture also needs some work. It is not symmetric and the right corner needs to be filed.

In green the aperture once modified, in red the genuine part.




As for the interior of the 2A with Ackermann steering and Team-Modified adjustable chassis, I cut an oval in a thin plasticard sheet and glued it on the floor at the junction of the passenger “seat” (only a vague concave form, as at that time there were no cushion for the passenger, not even for the back, such cushion was added only after this race).

This oval element can be seen on some pictures. On the one In color I showed, you see some tape around. It will be painted flat black on the otherwise brown floor.

On the floor I will also place a fire extinguisher along the passenger seat and may-be a gear level along the driver seat.

Another detail that concerns the painting strategy: I decided not to glue the round lateral air scoop that exists on the left side. This will be placed at the end.

The reason is I will have to use masking tape in order to paint in brown the lower sides of the body. Masking will be far easier without the scoop.

Once the brown color be painted, putting the scoop in place will not be a problem either.

Another modification consists of sanding the little embossments that represent the Dzus fasteners.



It will be better to put photo-etched parts instead.

Here are the photo-etched parts, for 1/24 scale models that will be used at the finishing stage.



To be continued...

[Jean-Michel Piot]

At last, a good preparation of the body imply that you use epoxy mastic to fill the gaps around the lower lateral NACA air ducts and everywhere the body requires it.

Before:



After:



Sorry, I almost forgot the enhancement of the front right wing, close to the head light, where the separation line was not sufficiently raised-up. Already seen, but here it is again:



When each and every above-listed modification is done, it is time for preliminary sanding with 1000 or 1500 grade sand paper and a first coat of primer.








In fact you will also have to drill 4 little holes, 2 for the clips for the filler cap trap doors, one for the rear screen support and one for the unique right side light for the race number (there was no such light on the left door). I will do this at the end but if you are not self confident, you’d better drill the holes now.

And if you forgot something, keep in mind that even with primer on it is still time for modifying with epoxy mastic, just as I did for the right front wing.

Once the gray primer coat is dry, I use 1500 grade sand paper.

Then I wash the body in soapy water then with lukewarm water and dry with my airbrush.

I then spray a white primer.

Then use 2000 grade sand paper, and wash again and dry with air.

It is now time for 2 or 3 coats of Tamiya pure white paint in can :



Once done, allow the paint to become really dry and hard, at least 2 weeks. Yes, 2 weeks. If you insist I will say 3 ...

Next time, we will see how to enhance the 2E.

[H10]

great looking to the details !!!

[Jean-Michel Piot]

Sorry, before the last picture I talked of a hole for the rear screen support. I mean "rear miror" support ...

Would Cheater edit this, please ?

Meanwhile, just a teasing for the next topic:



Have a nice day!

[Brad Korando]

Again, thank you so much for this superb article. Every aspect of your modeling work is exceptional; as are your photography and writing. It is a very kind gesture that you are willing to share your knowledge and techniques for achieving such fantastic results.

Brad

[Jean-Michel Piot]

Brad, I'm particularly pleased by your kind comments, especially as concerns the quality of writing. English is not my native language, so I'm really touched by this compliment that I would not have expected.



Now, this gives me an opportunity to also thank Cheater who sometimes rephrases my poor English...

[Edo]

...Every aspect of your modeling work is exceptional; as are your photography and writing...

ABSOLUTELY true!

A flabbergasting thread!

Merci beaucoup J-M!

E

[Jean-Michel Piot]

Allons bon, même les cinéastes/vidéastes/photographes s'y mettent ...

Many thanks Edo my friend, but coming from You, confirming that the pictures are good ??? I don't deserve it !

P.S. At least wait for the M9 camera (my next one for sure, but when ... ?) without even mentionning to others than Edo that the camera is nothing and what really maters is the eye...

[TSR]

The Leica M9 costs $7K so I guess I will have to do with my old little Nikon S1...

[Edo]

The Leica M9 costs $7K so I guess I will have to do with my old little Nikon S1...

Let's face it Dokk:

a Leica lens quality would do wonders for the iconographic part of your Book!

The S1 it's not gonna cut it for It!

Sell the Bertha and get a real camera!

...many thanks Edo..confirming that the pictures are good ??? I don't deserve it !
...At least wait for the M9 camera (my next one for sure...)

Yes J-M, you do take great pics!

Gee, are you going to photograph your toys with a rangefinder M9? You're such a dandy!

Edo (still taking pics with film cameras)

[Jean-Michel Piot]

Edo, I've used in my short life a R3Mot, a IIIc, a CL, a M4P with Leicameter, 2 M6 (the last I had with 21, 35, 50, 90, 135 a 200 telyt with visoflex) and a Digilux 1 and Digilux II (the one I use). Unfortunately I had to sell my last M6 and almost all the lenses to pay the repairs of a Porsche engine (944 turbo cup).

Indeed using a M9 for the model cars looks like a dandy attitude...

But I already have the Visoflex III and the below system, ready for a 3,5 Elmar 65mm or the head of an old 90mm Elmarit and macro pictures...

With this system, notably the 65mm, you can take picture from almost 1:1 to infinity...

And the M9 will not only be used for macro of course... (otherwise I would indeed have been a dandy ... )

When you have used a M and its lenses for years, it's hard to go backward...

[TSR]

Sell the Bertha and get a real camera!

And what do I do for a casket when I croak?

[Jean-Michel Piot]

The enhancement and building of the Cox 2 E (with magnesium frame, of course, I’m not talking of the IFC version) is a little more complex that the 2A.

But how rewarding it can be with some attention…

I propose to drill the holes in the top part of front wings, create lower lateral air scoops, engrave separation lines in the bottom of the sides, add door hinges, considerably enhance the mounting of big side air scoops (the ones for the radiators) and modify the shape of the meshing zones close to the mounting of the wing struts. We will also see how to modify the back of headrest, put a safety harness for the pilot and place real metal meshing. And few other minor things…

Lot of things indeed.

First job to do know: drilling the front wings holes.

In the real car this was made for aerodynamic consideration. It was not to cool down the brakes as one might think.

Of course this will take some time, but in fact it is almost easier to drill the holes rather than paint in flat black all those little points , on a dark blue area. (Yes it is dark blue, not black).

I can compare the two methods, as I painted the holes (illogical, I know…) for the second 2 E I built, the one of my friend Don Siegel who preferred that way to do.

The first 2 E I made was so badly damaged that I notably had to repair with polystyrene cement a front wing and this had incidence of the little embossments for the fake holes. This gave me the idea to really drill the holes and resurface the top of the wing.

Let’s see the final result:



By the way, since I got additional information this first 2E I made will be modified soon. I will change the pilot head, to be closer to the late Phill Hill’s helmet, paint the wing in dark blue, put red shell stickers rather than gold ones and add an aerodynamic blade at the rear. This way it will be closer to the car that raced in the 1966 Canadian Grand Prix at Bridgehampton, which had no front spoilers and the very same livery (apart from the Shell stickers to modify) with the Firestone sticker at the radiator level and not at the rear wheel level.


But let’s revert to the holes in the top of the front wings.

When I was young, I could have done all this with naked eyes because of my myopia. Now I use a binocular magnifier headband… Important to have a binocular magnifier, in order to keep the 3D vision. And on the head it is really more convenient.


Yes, this is at last, revealed here, my ONLY secret … When you can see all the defects you avoid to do many …

Now that you know that we can close the thread, as you will be able to do all the rest.

It is un-useful then to say that I use both hand tools and electric mini drill.

First of all I do a pre-drill with a conic tool, mounted on a modelling drill chuck held by hand.





Thereafter, I drill a first tiny hole, to be sure it will be right in the centre, still made by hand.







Once this is done, you can progressively enlarge to holes up to 0,70 mm, using 2 or three drills. How is-it in inches? 0.03 ?

With such tiny holes, it is better to progressively enlarge rather that only use 1 drill of the final diameter.











Once you get all the holes drilled, you can sand the surface with a 1000 grade sanding paper (like on the left of the picture above), to get rid of the original embossments that were there to suggest holes, as well as suppress the "line" that indicates the area to be painted in dark blue.

We will do without such a line. No need for such a help. Are we artists or not ?


In few hours from now: the lateral air scoops and technique for engraving lines.

[Dave Wilson]

Fantastic work and detailing Jean-Micheal.
Is one of thise 2e's mine ?

No matter how many posts you do, you still amaze me.

Keep up the great work and help for us new bees to try and follow.

Dave

[Jean-Michel Piot]

Before going on, as we were talking of optical means...

The binocular magnifier I use. Bought at a flea market for peanuts, though it has Zeiss lenses.



The camera, a Digilux 2 with a rare Elpro D for macro pictures (very difficult to get nowadays). This optical complement is excellent for close-ups and often used here.

[Jean-Michel Piot]

On the side of a 2 E, under the door level, there are 2 separation lines.

After some measures taken on a book, I decides that a line had to be engraved at 15mm from the rear wheel arch and another one at 2mm from the front wheel arch.

To engrave such lines you would need a ruler, but how to maintain it on the plastic ? An excellent tip given by a friend (Bigblock AKA Grosbig) is to use a Dymo band used to create plastic labels. It is rigid enough to be used as a ruler for a dry point, it sticks to the plastic, well, it is simply great.







Now the small lateral air scoops:

I made only one part, sculpted in styrene.






Then I reproduced this unique part in resin, with a 2 parts silicon mold.

As the part is symmetric, it can be used on either side.

It is now time to draw the aperture zone, open it, file it and use epoxy mastic, just the way we learnt to do earlier.


















Once the epoxy mastic is dry, file or sand if needed and then glue the resin parts with contact glue in gel version.

[Jean-Michel Piot]

The rear of the headrest of the Cox 2E is hopelessly flat.

On the genuine car there is a meshing, surrounded by a rather complex hedge.





I then sculpted a shape in polystyrene and added a little part made of aluminium.



The whole was then glued on a sheet of plasticard, so it was ready to be moulded in silicon and copied in resin.





Easy to glue then those parts and integrate them in the general shape of the headrest of each and every 2E I had to build with epoxy mastic and/or Tamiya putty.







Now let’s see the shape of the meshing zone just in front of the wing struts. On the Cox model the rear hedge is curved, quite like an “S”, though the genuine separation line on real cars is straight.

I then used epoxy mastic to modify all this.











Of course, after “cutting” the new line, you have to get rid of the excess:





Just a reminder for those who are not used to it: as we have seen before at the early stage of repairs techniques, make sure you always work with wet tools, first put in water.


We have talked of “strategy” for building and painting. Let’s see now a typical case: the interior of the 2 E. It is a complete separate part in the Cox model. It has to be mainly painted in dark blue, though the body is mainly white. Then one might consider rather logical to assemble the interior and the body after painting.

But the vertical firewall that limits the back of the interior is mainly included in the Cox body and for a little part included in the interior.

So assembling after painting would show an unwanted seal.

Moreover, the separation line between the white zone of the firewall and the dark blue one is not at the junction of the 2 parts.

At last, you will also have to paint in blue other zones of the body. Not even mentioning the fact that the interior and its blue painted zone is also partly delimited by the internal front extremities of the big side scoops!

The best result implies then to first assemble the interior and the body, joint perfectly with epoxy mastic and/or putty, sand and finally paint afterwards, using masking tape.

By the way the rear upper edge of the interior has to be filed on the two right and left extremities, for it to joint to the corresponding edge of the firewall that is part of the body.

So indeed it is far better to first take care of a perfect sealing and handle the paint job later on.

But this strategy also imposes that the dashboard, that is flat black and supposed to be mounted in the interior before the said is glued to the body, be finally assembled at the end.

This imposed to file the lower supports of the dashboard, so this part could thereafter be mounted from underneath.

Rather complex to say and understand, so here are pictures:

I first modify the front end of the interior, so the dashboard could be mounted from underneath at a late stage rather than from upward at an early stage.



I also have to mount the metal inserts for the screwing mounts of the chassis.

Here, for a resin interior (one of my repro parts):







On the last above picture, one will notice that it can clearly be seen that the dashboard will be able to slide from underneath.


I then can glue the interior, once filed and adjusted for a perfect fit.

Here in the case of a resin interior (one of my resin retro parts) I use contact glue.




And for a genuine plastic interior, I use polystyrene cement.

I rather use liquid glue for plastic, and put it (then press the parts) side by side.

Here only one side:






I also put epoxy mastic from the inside of the body, all around the interior part (but not where the wind screen will go into slots, in the middle of the doors) to make sure the linkage between the two parts will be strong.






The perfect junction of the two elements has to be made at the level of the firewall, first with epoxy mastic...



And with some putty thereafter, as you can see on the 3 bodies on the back. The two closers bodies received a grey primer, that shows now a perfectly flat firewall. For this, do not forget of course to also treat the junction with the headrest.



As we will see later, the mounting of the radiators and big air scoops that include them will be different from the process described by Cox (one can find in the VSRN Online Cox Library, a very useful site, here : Cox Library ) and the painting will require some masking …

[Jairus]

Excellent thread!
You are not only restoring... you are making them BETTER!

[Jean-Michel Piot]

Thanks Jairus.

Now, enhancing plastic kits is a quite common attitude you know. It could have been done more than 40 years ago at the time the first owner did build a certain Cox model.

But considering that we are restoring today and not building in the sixtees, this would lead us to a large debate: how far can one enhance a vintage model...

As Don Siegel and Philippe said: only the MIB has collector value. If we want to build, we should do it for pleasure only and be free.

As for myself I nevertheless consider that a beautifuly built car does have value. And I try to fix limits: rather modify parts than replace them for instance (with some-times exceptions for some small parts, I have to confess). Or make sure that whatever the degree of modification one can immediately identify a Cox.

Where is the truth ?

But for sure I'm having a lot of fun with those vintage cars !

[H10]

this is " JUST " the perfect built !!!!!!

[janj86]

jean-micheal you are 'superman' i can't deal with one piece you got a dozen --how is your little girl? growing like a weed as is my grand daughter == are you pouring sidepods and actuators for 2e anytime soon ?

[Jean-Michel Piot]

Dear Jim,

As I wrote I cannot do many parts because the silicon mold has its limits.

But you are one of the few people to whom I promissed to do repro parts and I will do them.

I will contact you by P.M.

And, thank-you, our little girl is starting to walk and she's so cute ...

[Jean-Michel Piot]

This time we will see the actuator.

As I said, this part is poor and needs to be modified.

This will give me the opportunity to show with more details a tip for resin casting.

We start with resin, precisely.

For small parts, rather than use an electronic balance for the mix of resin and hardener in equal quantities, I use two big syringes (60 ml), without needles.

Using the graduations, it will be easy to make the perfect mix.

Here I use 10ml + 10ml for each casting.



Now a close-up of the silicon mould and of 3 already casted copies of a genuine part.



The tip here is to poor only a little part of the mix and, using a wood tooth pick, to make sure there will be no air trapped in the zones designated by the blue arrows.



Here we go, we have few seconds to remove the air bubbles…



… and poor the rest of resin before closing the mould.





Then I gently press with my fingers around the mould



The resin starts to reticulate, as the white opaque zone in the centre shows.



Once the resin gets opaque, I stop pressing and leave it for 20 or 30 minutes. Then it is time to remove the resin at the top and open the mould to liberate the part.











You now just have to trim.

But the work is not finished yet. It’s now time to go back to the solitude of the workbench…



Can you feel the solitude ambiance?

So, what must be done now? Here we have several 2Es chassis and resin copies of the actuator.



The two that are mounted of their respective NASCAR engines are supposed to be clipped after a rotation. But the embossments that are supposed to allow that are too weak. The system has to be improved.

What I do is file a little the part that goes in the aperture of the engine and glue with contact glue a supplementary element made with plasticard. This element has two corners filed to be round, so the whole can turn.








The last thing to do with the resin copy is to drill the hole for the metal wire.

This metal wire can be found at Electric Dream. It is made of the very same material than the one of the wires one can find in the Cox brake kit.





The actuator can now be engaged in the engine upper aperture and turned clockwise into position.