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Joel Montague's 1973 Nats Winner


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#101 TSR

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Posted 26 February 2007 - 07:37 PM

Hi Rick,
Do you have a correct Champion C-can or do you need some help? :)




#102 Horsepower

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Posted 26 February 2007 - 09:23 PM

KEEP IT UP I LOVE THESE ARTICLES LIKE THE OLD CAR MODEL MAGS.

YES, BUT BETTER BCAUSE THEY ARE IN COLOR~and they're free too. :)
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#103 S.O. Watt

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Posted 27 February 2007 - 12:07 AM

Why grow up? :lol:


A stunning recreation. Kudos are well deserved.



As Mike said earlier . . . I wanna solder like YOU when I grow up! :)


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#104 Maximo

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Posted 27 February 2007 - 01:59 AM

Rick,


I wanna bend - form - fabricate and polish metal like YOU when I grow up! 8)


-Maximo
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#105 endbelldrive

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Posted 27 February 2007 - 03:27 AM

Formidable project, Rick. I'm looking forward to the motor build too and curious if Joel might gives us an overview of his motors circa 1973. :)
Bob Suzuki

#106 brucefl

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Posted 27 February 2007 - 09:17 AM

Joel, buddy friend of mine, forgive me (credit where credit is due; you da innovator par excellence and your chassis, etc., were winners) but Rick, yours is a case where the copy exceeds the model. I've gotta see it with the other lighting (you da Vargas of replica builders).

May I make a suggestion: get a gold chain to match and I'll wear it! Forget about racing it.

Hey, when ya gonna fulfill my Hannakan list of chassis? PM me. :mrgreen:
Bruce Schwartz

#107 dc-65x

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Posted 27 February 2007 - 10:06 AM

Do you have a correct Champion C-can or do you need some help? :)

Thank you for the offer, Philippe. :) All I have is the later thin-walled CEE can. Joel did some searching and has come up some Pooch motor parts for the project. I will email Adam because Joel has some motor decisions for him to make. :up: This is going to be fun. :mrgreen: 8)

I'll post pictures of the Pooch-modified early thick-walled Champion C-can and the later thin-walled Champion CEE can soon. Below is what Joel told me last night:

PS: . . . the thin can you describe is probably the "CEE" can (as opposed to the C-can). It was a deep-drawn can similar in manufacture to the Mabuchi but somewhat better. Not nearly as good as the modified C's though . . . it was thin and the deep drawing process necessitates a taper in order to withdraw the form tool. I don't think any of the serious racers ever used one in anger.


Rick Thigpen
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#108 brucefl

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Posted 27 February 2007 - 11:54 AM

Rick, how much are you asking for it when it's done? PM me.
Bruce Schwartz

#109 dc-65x

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Posted 27 February 2007 - 01:06 PM

Hi Bruce,

Glad you like the chassis. I'm building it as a special project for my friend Adam. It's a car he's always wanted ever since he first saw it 34 years ago in Miniature Auto Racing newsletter.

Rick Thigpen
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#110 prplgeez

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Posted 27 February 2007 - 01:39 PM

Rick, yours is a case where the copy exceeds the model.

Bruce, I couldn't agree more. I'm tell'n ya . . . the original is nowhere near this pretty!
Joel Montague

#111 Bill from NH

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Posted 27 February 2007 - 02:16 PM

Joel, yours might not have been as pretty but it was pretty fast! :lol: :lol:

#112 dc-65x

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Posted 13 March 2007 - 11:56 AM

Joel found an original early Champion thick-wall can for the project. Not only that but he’s offered to modify the can and Mura endbell just like he did in 1973 . . . how cool is that!

He couldn’t find the original fixture to turn down the endbells to fit the Champion cans so he made up a one-off gizmo to do the job. Joel took a few pictures for us and apologized for the quality but I say thanks for sharing the “birth of a Pooch”! Here are his pictures and comments:

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" . . . first dialing in the fixture. Back in the day, I would have taken the time and effort to use a four-jaw chuck to get it dead nuts but I didn't have a South Bend "Heavy 10" then. :) Anywayz . . . first to get the fixture running true, then to do the actual turning. The spud is turned to the inside diameters of the endbell and has a cross pin that engages the tower of the endbell for a positive drive.

Posted Image

“The gizmo (on the other side of the endbell) is a home-made live center sort of thing
which consists of a ball bearing mounted on the end of a piece of aluminum. The bearing engages the endbell directly and spins with it to prevent it from sliding on the spud. A very gentle pressure is all that's required and honestly, it wouldn't really need the bearing . . . a little bit of rubbing wouldn't be a problem for such a minor amount of pressure.”

Thanks, Joel, can’t wait to see the can mods!

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#113 TSR

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Posted 13 March 2007 - 03:45 PM

Rick,
I am happy that you found a solution to the parts needed. In fact Joel, who happened to be at the time the finest motor builder on the East Coast, did a lot of work on those Pooch motors. Since we are lucky enough to have a few nearly intact survivors in the museum, I can tell you a few of the tricks he used, and they really worked.
The Champion C-can was indeed made in two versions, a thick one made with the same process as the Mura cans, i.e. made from a progressive die, stamping the can in a flat shape from sheet steel, then forming it over a buck. The joined sides were then electric welded. Material was carbon steel, .045" thick or so. It looks pretty good and straight.

The second type is much thinner and was drawn like a Mabuchi FT16 or a modern FK-series motor, but the Champion tooling was not too good and caused rippling all over the can. Those are almost unusable for anyone serious about building good motors. Some of these cans have two "ears" on top and bottom, drilled to receive the two assembly screws like the old Champion 517/617 used to be, corresponding to a groove on the Champion red plastic endbells. Of course this method was not satisfactory at all, and Joel discarded this method of endbell assembly. I do not know which was first produced, but I imagine that the later must have been the thinner one, so as to save money on production. I will have to ask Carl Ford about that one.

Joel used the "good" cans and machined the sides down to make them thinner and, it appears, also lower from what I have measured (to fit the magnets better, I suppose) while retaining the original thickness where the four Champion slotted flathead screws were mounted. He also increased the rear axle clearance by removing some of the can material where needed. The Champion Blue Dot magnets were then contoured and fitted without shims in the machined can, using two U-shaped springs, then honed to whatever clearance he wanted. Joel also drilled an extra 3/16" hole between the two vent holes on the can, again to alter the magnetic field and provide better cooling. He originally used Champion endbells as seen on some examples but later turned to the better Mura unit and machined them to fit. The early examples we have use hand-built buss bars, the negative one going though a hole drilled on top of the endbell, so that mechanical failure during a severe impact would be reduced. In comparison, Bob Green and Lee Gilbert merely filed a notch in the end bell and tied the buss bar with copper wire. Not quite as strong . . . Later Joel used the Mura buss bars after they went in production in late 1972.

On this Tony P-built car, one can see the buss bar going through the second-generation Mura endbell with the larger bearing. Note the use of machine screws to retain the hardware as well as the brush spring once wound in place, avoiding possible trouble during a crash as the spring is now captive.

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Joel was one of the first to insulate the brush springs with Teflon tubing, so as to let the brush shunt wires transmit both heat and power to the lead wires. Sounds pretty standard today, but was something pretty advanced then . . .

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You can see more of such motors in THIS STORY published a couple of years ago on the Electric Dreams vintage site. :)

#114 prplgeez

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Posted 13 March 2007 - 04:35 PM

Actually, Philippe, the cans were stock height. I didn't want to move the steel closer to the armature top and bottom and later even went to the extreme of machining the can from the inside over top and bottom of the armature to move it further away but the eventual solution proved to be just removing it completely. The magnets were shimmed top and bottom during that era but that was later discarded when we went to epoxying them in place and ID-grinding then polishing the magnets.
Joel Montague

#115 TSR

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Posted 13 March 2007 - 05:45 PM

Hi Joel.
I thought that you may have done that because the stock can I had here is taller by about 15 thou than the 1972-vintage Pooch motor in my hands . . . so my assumption was wrong. The difference may be explained by simple blueprinting, who knows? Since Bill Steube was doing it, I thought that you might have. The Camen/Pooch motors we have at the museum (loose and in cars) are of different eras, some with the Champion endbell (small bearing), some with Mura and the large endbell.
All except for the ones with the Mura cans have magnet retaining springs but do not appear to have shims. Then again I did not look that deep into it yet, I am just looking from the can bearing side . . . :)
If needed for the restoration, we have a few original NOS Champion "red" endbells for the C-cans, fitted with Mura buss bars. We also have a quantity of Mura endbells with the large bearing.
We are much poorer in Champion C-cans . . . :|

#116 Bill from NH

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Posted 13 March 2007 - 07:59 PM

I think there were at least two runs of the drawn .030 Champion cans. The first was available when the .040 stamped ones were. Does the museum have any Hi-Pro or Bullit (Walt LaBree and Russ Boyington, two well-known CT pros) motors or setups? Both always used .030 cans from this first batch. If so, you'll notice they possess the same level of straightness as the .040 cans Joel used. It was a later batch of .030 cans, made about 1974 that are wavey. I don't know if this later batch was made on worn-out dies or if they were made by someone else. But the quality sure wasn't there. This batch also has more shine to its black paint. :)

#117 TSR

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Posted 13 March 2007 - 08:07 PM

Does the museum have any Hi-Pro or Bullit (Walt LaBree and Russ Boyington, two well-known CT pros) motors or setups?

No, and that would explain the different dimension. I was never too familiar with the Champion C-can, since we just did not run them on the Left Coast. We just have a few Pooch/Camen plus some arms and that's it.
We do have earlier Kean Kans and an array of other Champion C-can motors but we do not know who built them.
When I visited with Carl Ford last month, I really did not push that issue, I should have . . . :|

#118 Bill from NH

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Posted 13 March 2007 - 08:12 PM

Bob Rule might be a good individual to talk to as well. :)

#119 Foamy

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Posted 14 March 2007 - 12:32 AM

Champion had .030 cans made on the same or similar tooling as the .040 cans, meaning they looked identical as the .040s.
I have seen .040 cans milled top and bottom to .030; maybe this is what you have.

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#120 Foamy

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Posted 14 March 2007 - 12:44 AM

I was never too familiar with the Champion C-can, since we just did not run them on the Left Coast.

Some of the fastest Balljoint motors I have seen race were Champion can-based. That was after you stopped racing, though. I was dragged to Bill's shop one day and tried to buy a couple cans. There was a tray of maybe 30 of them just sitting in the open. I was told no because the bearing hole was too big and I would never get the bearing centered in the can.

I made my own Champion setups with the help from a machine shop friend that ran just fine.

Too bad all that stuff got purged in the early cobalt motor days . . . I do have one Revtech Champion setup left never finished.

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#121 prplgeez

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Posted 14 March 2007 - 01:50 AM

Foamy, you're WAY TOO MODEST!!! Your stuff ran a whole lot better than 'just fine'!!! And the best part was the M80 when you'd had enough!!! :)
Joel Montague

#122 Bugeye

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Posted 14 March 2007 - 09:34 AM

Philippe or anyone,
Can you post a pic of a Kean Kan? I am suppose to have one in my
stash but don't know what I am looking at. :|
Rob Giorgi

#123 TSR

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Posted 14 March 2007 - 10:07 AM

Hi Rob,
I think that I will do this in another thread because poor Rick is just trying to build his motor for the replica of Joel's car here. :)
But I promise to do so soon.
Coming back to the 1973 Nats, I think that Joel should donate his colorful pants to the museum. Joel, you DID keep those, did you not? :mrgreen:

#124 Bugeye

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Posted 14 March 2007 - 12:03 PM

Oops. You're right. Sorry, Rick.
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#125 dc-65x

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Posted 31 March 2007 - 12:00 AM

Joel just emailed me and I've got to share this with you:

"Got the can sides ground. This was a can that had a broken weld and although the brazing process shown wouldn't have been a production technique until later, it was necessary for this one. Then a couple of poorly-lighted shots of the grinding process and the finished grind".

"In '73 this turning process would have been accomplished in a Unimat and would have taken many passes a few thou at a time with a single point cutter. Today, I'm just set up for can grinding and I didn't think this would violate the spirit of the era toooooo much and sure saved a lot of time".

This is what a professional in a well-equipped shop can accomplish. All I can say is HOLY SMOKES!

Posted Image

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A 1973 Pooch Plus V is being created before our eyes in 2007 . . . Is this cool or what! 8)

Thank you, Joel :)

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#126 Foamy

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Posted 31 March 2007 - 10:54 AM

Considering all the cans I blew apart trying to single-point them too fast, I gotta say that seems like cheating! :mrgreen:

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#127 prplgeez

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Posted 31 March 2007 - 12:46 PM

Oh, can I EVER identify with THAT!!! Hey . . . you got any of those cans left? . . . we can fix nowadaze. :)
Joel Montague

#128 dc-65x

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Posted 31 March 2007 - 07:20 PM

Joel's been working on the motor some more :) . Here is his latest report and pictures:

Got a little bit more done.

First we scribe a location mark for the center hole, then center punch and either punch or drill the hole. The punch would have been accurate for that era but a drill would have worked just as well except for a little more deburring involved. Ya say ya didn't get it in the center . . . yeah well, neither did I . . . that's what those nasty little round jewelers files are for. :)

There was some thinking that there would be better air flow if the hole was off center toward the direction of rotation but it eventually proved superior to simply remove all the metal over the armature.

Shortly after this era we experimented with machining the can from the inside to remove steel directly over the armature. Imagine spinning the can in a lathe and engaging the inside of the can between the original vent holes with a small grinding wheel in a tool post grinder or even a Dremel fixtured to the cross slide. The idea being to reduce magnetic drag produced by the energized armature coil in close proximity to the ferrous material. It helped a little, but as I said above, it eventually proved superior to simply eliminate all the steel and live with the resultant flux loss. The motors ran faster and cooler.


Posted Image

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Thanks, Joel. :)

Rick Thigpen
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#129 One_Track_Mind

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Posted 01 April 2007 - 03:29 AM

A 1973 Pooch Plus V is being created before our eyes in 2007 . . . Is this cool or what! 8) Thank you, Joel. :)

Rick, I'm not sure what the 'what' would be?, but you're correct, this is very cool! :up: 8)
Thanks everyone for sharing the info.
I just :love: this place!

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#130 Jeff Easterly

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Posted 01 April 2007 - 05:03 PM

Ah!!!! A Whitney punch! :mrgreen: :up:

My favorite tool! :kiss:

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#131 dc-65x

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Posted 14 September 2007 - 07:55 PM

This thread has been on hold because Joel has been super busy. Don’t you just hate it when our real lives get in the way of our vintage slot car passion! :D

Anyway, to get the ball rolling again Joel came up with alternate solution to building a “new – old” Pooch motor. Here’s the email Joel sent me with what he had in mind:

“Rick,

In the interest of time, I've changed things up a bit. I will send you a "kit" tomorrow. I have to go out to the house and work over the weekend so in order to get everything in the necessary time frame; it looks like you're going to have to do the assembly.”


I have to interject here with a WEEEEEEEEE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I get to help Joel Montague build a Pooch motor!

Now back to Joel’s email:

“I have switched cans because one of the things I found in the 'discovery' is a motor from not too much later that is not just a 'team' motor but is one of my personal motors from about 1977 and was named "Henri's Friend". Henri was my best motor circa 1977 Nats and the proper pronunciation is similar to the French... Awnrey... but with the accent on the first syllable as in; meaner'n hell:) ORNERY!!

Anyway, Henri's friend is coming your way. The heat sinks and buss bars are not correct (black anodized heat sinks - Mura buss bars) but I'll include them along with the bits and pieces you sent.

Magnets are a bit more trick than the 1973 era as they were ground in the can. You'll have to shim to an appropriate air gap.

I had to re-dye the endbell... it came out a bit dark but not too bad.

Joel”


I asked Joel if he wouldn’t rather keep this special motor and display it or something but he said:

“Rick, don't even THINK about it... Henri AND Henri's friend were built to USE!!! He's just delighted to find SUCH a marvelous opportunity to perform again. All'z he asks is that you pronounce the name right :)

Holy Smokes! Adam’s getting Joel’s personal Nats motor! Why didn’t I build this one for myself? Adam, you lucky dog. B)
Here is Henri’s Friend wearing a new coat of paint and freshly dyed purple (what other color could it possibly be!) endbell:

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Now how about this armature Joel sent WOW!:

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I’ll get the armature out of the bag and take some pictures soon. I sent Joel a set of my clone Parma Dougherty like these:

Posted Image

He said he has something planned for them. When I get them back I will assemble and install Henri into his new home. I’m sure Adam will give him plenty of opportunities to show his stuff!

Onward…

Rick Thigpen
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#132 Jairus

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Posted 14 September 2007 - 08:50 PM

Very nice, Rick! Couldn't have happened to a nicer guy/builder in my never to be humble opinion.
As an aside... the Pooch motor in my possession also happens to have those neat little cut and fold magnet tabs! Photos forthcoming in another thread... :D

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#133 Jon Laster

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Posted 14 September 2007 - 10:30 PM

Oh, a Pooch 6/7... Philippe never had a chance! Been looking at my old chassis from the era trying to remember who did what first, and drawing a near blank (bad habits of the time...) the progression from the first isos, with the rear very marginally connected to the drop-arm; then one rail soldered the length of said drop arm... finally two rails, straight from rear axle to guide; the progression seems clear, but who gets credit? The fuss over front wheel treatment seems a smaller detail.

Back to 1973 (gas lines?) the most interesting things would be chassis length, front-end weight. and general bite; if Joel's car was longer. With more front-end bias, it would have run freer, exhibiting more power. At least under the full-glue conditions of the day...
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#134 dc-65x

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Posted 14 September 2007 - 10:48 PM

Hi Jon and welcome to the forum. Bad habits of the time... indeed :lol: . That armature does look menacing! Thank you for sharing your insights.

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#135 Jon Laster

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Posted 15 September 2007 - 01:10 PM

Oops! I meant to be droll. What I should have said was; Wow, a Pooch 6/7! Those were the armatures of the gods! They were, too...
Jon Laster
12/23/54-8/23/09
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#136 dc-65x

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Posted 15 September 2007 - 06:15 PM

Here's the "Armature of the Gods" (I like that :D ) out of the package:

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I found a S26 that looks like it might be one of Joel's??? Look at the similarity of the engraving:

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Here are two other "hopefuls" that aren't engraved:

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Joel sent some other goodies for the next post...

Rick Thigpen
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#137 dc-65x

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Posted 15 September 2007 - 06:17 PM

Here are the other goodies Joel sent:

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Thanks, Joel!
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#138 mdiv

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Posted 15 September 2007 - 09:45 PM

DC-65X:

It looks like a LOT of goodies CAMEN the mail!

Ack, starting to sound like my father! Eeek!

Great pics man, you inspire me!

Mike DiVuolo

 

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#139 dc-65x

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Posted 22 September 2007 - 06:14 PM

Here's the progress on assembling Joel's Friend Henri. All it needs is the shunt wires to be ready to solder in the chassis. I'll do that when I get the modified heat sinks back from Joel. Here is drilling the hole for the copper wire buss bar to go through the endbell:

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The brush hoods were soldered to the copper backing plates. The slot in the hood is opened up so the brush spring insulation and shunt wire will fit and move freely. A fiber insulator is installed under the brush spring post. The buss bar attaches to the lower screw and runs up the side of the end bell, goes through the hole I drilled. I sure hope this is the way you did it, Joel :shok: I think it is but it's hard to tell from the pictures :unsure: . Man, those screw heads look like crud. They are new screws, too. I'll have to clean them up. Looks like I'd better countersink that hole I drilled, too. Man, these close-up pictures really show the boo-boos. :blink: ;) :blush:

The brush spring are modern Camen Heavy springs. I always thought they had a vintage look to them and I've been using them on a lot of my motors. This is what Joel said about brush springs when I asked what I should use: "Actually, the springs I was going to send were modern Camen. They are very close to the Boyington's that we ran in that era and I doubt I have any Boyingtons."

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Henri almost ready to go:

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Aren't those little 0-80 flat head screws holding the endbell on cool B)

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One last picture with Henri all dressed up with a new comm cooler. I know Joel didn't run one in the Nats but I finally got a batch made for me and I just had to see what it would look like on the motor:

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Next I'll get the front wheels soldered on and... well... wait for those special heat sinks from Joel to finish Adam's bitch'n car. :) ;) :D

Thanks for everything, Joel!

Rick Thigpen
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#140 Tex

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Posted 23 September 2007 - 10:52 AM

Schweet!
Richard L. Hofer

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#141 dc-65x

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Posted 24 September 2007 - 12:07 PM

I love the way a comm cooler looks but it won't be used on this motor. Here are Joel's thoughts on them and why his Nats-winning motor was "coolerless":

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One thing... RELIGIOUSLY did NOT use comm coolers. I know they look sexy but (in my opinion) they just add weight in the worst possible place. We didn't have excessive heat problems in that particular era and the bulk was not only unnecessary but counterproductive. Would much rather have heat sinks addressing the brushes (i.e. Elephant Ears, etc.) than adding non-productive rotational weight to the armature. Like I said... just my opinion... it seems to work.

Joel also commented on these other "Pooch hopeful" armatures I have:

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BTW... from what I can make out via the pics, your three additional armatures all appear to be authentic Pooch... the two unengraved are most likely 24ga winds of one type or another and the 26 is almost surely a vintage single 26 of the era. Those (the single 26s) were mostly special orders for mild power tracks such as "West Seattle" and tracks with similar conditions.

I've got to give out a WEEEEEEEEEEEEEE!!!!!!!!!!!!!! on that! Now I have a Pooch arm for my Lee Gilbert-Sundance-Car Model Magazine build. :D Lee did use a Pooch didn't he... geeeeeeeeeezzzzzzzzzz... gotta go look that up. :blink: :unsure: ;)

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#142 endbelldrive

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Posted 24 September 2007 - 12:40 PM

Man... those are classic arms. :whistle3:
Bob Suzuki

#143 Slapshot

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Posted 26 September 2007 - 09:21 AM

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The 26 appears (if you look below on the next stack) to be actually a 24 1/2 Guage or "24T" sorry can't see too clearly. Sometimes the wind numbers and Camen Logo got engraved on other stacks unless it was a double wind. The arm length is shorter with the bearing spacer cut flush nearer the windings (opposite side not the com end).

:shok: Dang... that 26-27 (double wind) is possibly the one that was a missing or misplaced B/O special order to West Seattle 25 some years ago. Joel was right we used the 26 single at West Seattle. I used 26 or similar 26-27 double winds at WSSH. If you got the 26 off E-pay then it most likely came out of Seattle. I still hve a few 24G fairly fresh Select and Plus 5 arms left that the coms are not lifted (Centerville) or cut to the "tab of death."

If I had knowen sooner I would have shipped Joel some C can forming slugs and inserts for milling sides along with an endbell turning tool holder I had. Plus the dozen or so Mura white endbells (and Elephant ear HS) some dyed Purple (ahhh boiling the endbell in purple Rit or comercial food coloring dye with lots vinegar in it worked perfect). .....Gads ZOOOKS....score... I just found my Camen "Pony" can forming slug now I can narrow my older Green C cans a 1/8".....cut cut hammer hammer braze....

Hey Jon.... (If you are the infamous Jon "Faster" Laster)... Lee Gilbert was just talking about you the other day...says Hey and someday you got to come up to Seattle to witness (or participate) in the fastest Flat Track 1/24 & 1/32 Eurosport racing in the country at
Lee Gilberts Speedshop . Hang him an e-mail off his web site.

Raymond Batchelor

Raymond Batchelor

#144 Tex

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Posted 26 September 2007 - 09:52 AM

To me, it looks like the top stack says "S 26" and the bottom stack says "24t"... 24 turns of 26 single(?).
Richard L. Hofer

Remember, two wrongs don't make a right... but three lefts do! Only you're a block over and a block behind.

#145 dc-65x

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Posted 26 September 2007 - 09:22 PM

Yep, that what's engraved on the stack.

Rick Thigpen
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#146 Jairus

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Posted 04 October 2007 - 05:12 PM

Rick,

I am currently building one of these chassis. I mentioned that you had inspired me...

Anyway, I usually toss in a jig motor now and then just to make sure that there are plenty clearances and I noticed something. The right side plumber rails bump into the motor end bell!! Yeah, it's just slightly but it touches it nonetheless. I had to use a grinder to taper that inner rod in order to make sure it clears and never touches.

I was just wondering if you noticed this? :secret:

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#147 Jairus

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Posted 05 October 2007 - 05:34 PM

See, Rick!

You can inspire... :) Although not as nice as your chassis... it is as close as I could get it.

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Jairus H Watson - Artist
Need something painted, soldered, carved, or killed? - jairuswtsn@aol.com

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Check out some of the cool stuff on my Fotki!


#148 dc-65x

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Posted 05 October 2007 - 05:50 PM

Hi Jarius,

That's a great-looking chassis. I think I know who is going to be very happy. ;) .
I'll check the plumber rail vs the endbell clearance tonight.

I can't wait to get the heat sinks back from Joel so I can finish mine up and get it on the track.

Rick Thigpen
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#149 S.O. Watt

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Posted 09 October 2007 - 09:55 PM

I used to run 23-26t 26 Selects (or Plus 5s?) at WSS&H. IMHO that thar is a 24T26.

And ya can take that to da bank!
:laugh2:

Tom Hansen
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#150 dc-65x

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Posted 23 November 2007 - 09:11 PM

The crowning touch for Henri's Friend is ready. Joel not only engraved the heat sinks:

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He modified them to match his Nats-winning motor:

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Thanks for including me, Joel :blush: but you did all the work. I just screwed it together :). And, together it is:

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I broke the motor in on the Koford analyzer using their recommended GP7 break in of 1.2v, 2v, and 3v. I used light Camen brush springs and the motor is drawing about 3.5 amps. It was barely warm at the end of the break-in, which surprised me.

The front wheels and front and rear motor mounts have been soldered onto the chassis. It's soaking in WD40 now and tomorrow I hope to get her finished.

THANKS, JOEL!
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Rick Thigpen
Check out Steve Okeefe's great web site at its new home here at Slotblog:
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