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Thingies: what were they all about?


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#301 MantaRay

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Posted 04 January 2012 - 10:32 AM

Glenn , I have an old Rgeo I would part with for shipping cost. Needs a few clamps and assorted bits but they c
an be made or gotten from rick. Will post pic later
Ray Price
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#302 Gator Bob

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Posted 04 January 2012 - 10:35 AM

Called Hobby Town locally and they still have Timiya paints.

Anyone needing it give me a part# and color name.
http://www.tamiya.co...cts/archive.htm

The helpful salesperson did not see lime green metallic on the rack.
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                            Bob Israelite

#303 One27ray

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Posted 04 January 2012 - 06:17 PM

Hey Bro-Rob,

Here is a pic of the color I was looking for, lime green metalic, maybe they don't make it anymore? Didn't see it on their web site?

Posted Image

Also, on a side note...these two bodies are "scale 1/24" bodies? they do fit on and Intl.32 chassis :good: you had mentioned them in another tread :D

Posted Image

i-ray

PS someone asked about this body style in 1/32 scale, mini/womp/Intl.32- Supercuc series, plus another 3 in 1/24 scale

Posted Image

one was done in the lime green too.
Ray Fellows

#304 draggon

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Posted 04 January 2012 - 07:04 PM

Thanks for all the good thoughts on my fire. Insurance people have been cking it out today and more to come tomorrow. Very stressful, bit I know the General Contr. and that helps a lot. So, Bob, do you mean to say that friendly stops at the checkered flag? :laugh2: I think some of my "issues" came from years of soldering on a pine block covered in asbestos. Seriously. A few hours of that got me feelin' sort of funny. :crazy: I thought I was real high tech when my Dad trued up that pine block on his tablesaw, and helped me make some set up wheels on the lathe. Thx for the tip about glass, I had already thought of graph paper, at least in the design and bending mode. Geez, nowadays I cant belive I layed out the chassis by pounding nails into that wood. And NO more fires!
Glenn Asher

#305 draggon

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Posted 04 January 2012 - 07:05 PM

Fantastic offer Ray! I am looking forward to seeing the pics!

Oh and while Im at it I should mention I got the Choti body from "George and Pearl" out of Oz. He sent it on the condition I build it 3 years ago, so I hope to make him proud.
Glenn Asher

#306 Mopar Rob

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Posted 04 January 2012 - 10:23 PM

Hey Bro-Rob,

Here is a pic of the color I was looking for, lime green metalic, maybe they don't make it anymore? Didn't see it on their web site?



Ray:

Have you seen the Testors lacquer Citrus Yellow Metalic? I believe it's similar to what you're looking for?

http://www.testors.c...136964/Lacquers

Rob Hanson

Shops at Mid-America Raceway and uses R-Geo Products


Rob was right!


#307 Gator Bob

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Posted 04 January 2012 - 11:42 PM

Super nice gesture Ray. :good:
Glenn, just funnin...we all are staying friends, I think? :unknw: Stress sucks... :mosking: get some takeout tonight..relax :pardon:

Bro-Noda, the color Rob posted looks real close. Tonights short track race was postponed last minute till next Wed. so I didn't get to Hobby Town but now I know what you are looking for so I'll check when I go there. You have so many freaking cool bodies to chose from :crazy:

Rob, Testors lists Go Mango as a Ford color :diablo: :sarcastic_hand: calm down dude.
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#308 One27ray

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Posted 05 January 2012 - 08:59 AM

Hey Bro-Rob,

Thanks man, I'm sure noda will vac you up some Thingies inexchange for some paint :good:
i-ray
Ray Fellows

#309 Michael Rigsby

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Posted 05 January 2012 - 11:00 AM

Though I never raced 'em, nor much less saw them at Florida tracks, I'm following this thread with interest to see what kind of creations you guys come up with. I guess the thingie craze was pretty much a Cali or northeast thing. About the closest we came to thingie racing down here was running Classic Manta Rays or Asps, but mostly we ran scale or wing car.

Build on guys, all the chassis look interesting. And with some of the winds you guys are talking about they should be a real handful to drive.

MR

"... a good and wholesome thing is a little harmless fun in this world; it tones a body up and keeps him human and prevents him from souring." - Mark Twain


#310 MantaRay

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Posted 05 January 2012 - 12:06 PM

Here is a pic of the R-Geo Jig...........A lot of Chassis's went thru this jig. PM me with your address
DSC03951.JPG
Ray Price
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#311 draggon

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Posted 06 January 2012 - 09:15 PM

You da man, Ray! Thats SURE gonna help. Im working on gathering the pieces I still need for the car.
Glenn Asher

#312 TSR

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Posted 06 January 2012 - 09:45 PM

I like this chassis, do you have any idea who built it?


Posted Image


Bill,
no idea but it was obviously one of those Norcal racers, and it is very likely that the added aerodynamic appendage was added later, possibly as late as 1971 when these became popular in open-class racing. Scott got the car from the auction and it is now in the LASCM in a drawer where I hide it from view until I can go through it and bring it back to what it was in the first place. :)

Philippe de Lespinay


#313 boxerdog

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Posted 07 January 2012 - 11:11 AM

Glenn, let me know if I might have something to help out, I'm just over the hill. In a lot of ways!

...and a question for Philippe: what kind of rules or restrictions would you think are appropriate for this thingie race? I have no idea what was current in 1970 so I would like to stay out of the gray area if possible. Thanks.
David Cummerow

#314 TSR

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Posted 07 January 2012 - 12:50 PM

David,
It is none of my business of course.
Assuming that I had any say, I would try to restrict the parts used for this to original or replicas of pre-1970 slot cars, because frankly, the "thingie" movement was very brief, very limited and plenty fascinating just the way it was and there was none of it left in 1970.
Now would I allow "new" thingie bodies? Sure! What I would not allow are "wing car" bodies from pro racing painted to mimic "thingies", because they in my opinion have no place in this.
As far as motors, I would only allow Mabuchi-based motors (again because no thingie ever used anything else made after the FT16, 26 and 36 series) and try to avoid the use of modern 16D stuff that is simply out of place here. Parts and motors are cheap enough...

As far as chassis, I would limit technology to what was that of pre-1970. I remember driving one of these cars I believe last year in one of the proxy events, and it easily was the fastest, best handling car there, but it was effectively a modern Eurosport, simply constructed from steel wire instead of laser-cut steel. So basically the builder followed the letter of the rules but ceertainly not the spirit.

It is a bit of a difficult issue, we have similar issues in D3 racing where somne racers are trying to push the envelope and burst it, which can only be damaging the whole process.

'Again, I must repeat that this is simply MY opinion and should have no bearing on what the gentlemen organizing this event are accomplishing, something that I greatly encourage and wish I had time to get involved in building such a car.

Philippe de Lespinay


#315 draggon

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Posted 07 January 2012 - 11:57 PM

Thanks for the offer David, I think Im gonna need it! And Ray, I was looking at my PM's and you sent me one in November I never read. Do you still want that Dynamic 343 bracket?
Glenn Asher

#316 Gator Bob

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Posted 08 January 2012 - 01:27 AM

Glenn, Reading your PM's is a rule in this series. lol
BTW: what is a #343?
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                            Bob Israelite

#317 havlicek

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Posted 08 January 2012 - 09:36 AM

As far as motors, I would only allow Mabuchi-based motors (again because no thingie ever used anything else made after the FT16, 26 and 36 series) and try to avoid the use of modern 16D stuff that is simply out of place here. Parts and motors are cheap enough...


I agree Philippe. I've seen people say they have a hard time sourcing motor cores or NOS Mabuchis, but they don't seem that rare, and with a such a light car they should provide for plenty of excitement. While I just want to "get along" and have no trouble agreeing with the majority, I also really don't see the point in allowing modern 16D parts. That blows the whole concept out of the water.

As far as chassis, I would limit technology to what was that of pre-1970. I remember driving one of these cars I believe last year in one of the proxy events, and it easily was the fastest, best handling car there, but it was effectively a modern Eurosport, simply constructed from steel wire instead of laser-cut steel. So basically the builder followed the letter of the rules but ceertainly not the spirit.


Yep...still, I'm going to wait and see what others do (and how much complaining any particular chassis design generates), before I make something up. At least the "inline" rule puts a fair limit on things.

'Again, I must repeat that this is simply MY opinion and should have no bearing on what the gentlemen organizing this event are accomplishing, something that I greatly encourage and wish I had time to get involved in building such a car.


Speaking only for myself, I would LOVE to see what you might come up with and hope you manage to put something together even though you don't see having the time right now. For me, these Proxy events really have nothing to do with "winning"...but more with recreating (at least somewhat) a bit of Slot Car History. You are after all a "historic figure" in slots :)

-john
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#318 Jairus

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Posted 08 January 2012 - 09:57 AM

While I do agree with everything Philippe says. The inference that by 1970 Thingies were gone and we should go back to only that which was available in 1968 regarding motors and the like, has been done to death in prior Thingie Proxy races.
The truth is that while the organized events may have disappeared by 1970, the cars sure didn't. They seem to keep popping up on eBay! The cars still existed in the hearts and minds of the racers as it was only a couple years later. So the premis of this series is that a teen is standing in the local 'still existing' hobby shop after reading a flyer announcing a new Thingie event with little to no rules and a pocket full of paper route money during the Summer of 1970!

If you were that kid back then.... how would you proceed?
You most certainly would buy the best motor available.
You would search out the best AJS, Dynamic, U-Go tires on the wall and head home to fire up the iron.
1970 was before added on wings became the norm but Mura had introduced the new brush hardware that totally eliminated the melted endbell. In fact, Mura now had, by '70, a new endbell for the "D" can motor.

Nobody is saying that builders cannot use pre 1969 technology. If John and others love the ol'Mabuchi motors, then "Go for it!"

Edit: Philippe, Bryan Warmack currently has my Mule in his possession for testing. I believe he plans on running it at Buena Park prior to the next D3 race. You are welcome to give it a try too. The car was built in the spirit of 1970.

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#319 havlicek

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Posted 08 January 2012 - 11:48 AM

Hi Jairus,

How long of a series is this supposed to be? I have a bunch of arms I've tested and any of them seems at least feasible depnding on how long these cars might run. For sure, a shorter series (2 or 3 tracks) would favor a hotter motor.

-john
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#320 Jairus

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Posted 08 January 2012 - 12:27 PM

Two races, 8 lanes on two king tracks, balls out!
One race would make the motors grenades, but adding a second track adds a level of longevity to the mix.

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#321 draggon

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Posted 08 January 2012 - 01:42 PM

The truth is that while the organized events may have disappeared by 1970, the cars sure didn't. They seem to keep popping up on eBay! The cars still existed in the hearts and minds of the racers as it was only a couple years later. So the premis of this series is that a teen is standing in the local 'still existing' hobby shop after reading a flyer announcing a new Thingie event with little to no rules and a pocket full of paper route money during the Summer of 1970!

If you were that kid back then.... how would you proceed?


Youre so right Jairus. We were still having "open comp" races as late as September 1969. So if i was lucky enough to be back in that day....
1" or 1-1/4" brass drop arm
brass floppies
piano wire main rails, perhaps 3
jet flag
Riggen grey for qualifying, orange for the race
smallest orings available for front wheels
mura pink, depending on the race length, 25 single or 27-28 double, I dont remember if mura made 26's, list price a whopping $20!
motor mounted can drive, soldered to the bracket
shunted brushes
choti with one wing made from lexan
and NO GLUE!
3" max width, 1/16 clearance, both seriously enforced!

And Bob, I hear tell the 343 bracket is for a GE motor. I bought it thinking it would fit a 16-d
Glenn Asher

#322 TSR

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Posted 08 January 2012 - 02:52 PM

Jairus,
i will ask Bryan for the car and will test it and report. Some of last year's cars were really good.

Philippe de Lespinay


#323 chief32s

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Posted 08 January 2012 - 03:41 PM

Some of last year's cars were really good.


I guess they really are last year's cars now, but the series continues into 2012 with a few more races yet to run. I wonder what wonders will comprise this year's cars???

ATB
Al.
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#324 Gator Bob

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Posted 08 January 2012 - 06:37 PM

Glenn, the tracks are so much smoother today so I'm not sure if a drop arm will be needed.

Very cool....looking forward to the feedback from Brian and Philippe. :)

Drop the plow and whip that Mule... the first row is the hardest to make straight, all others will follow.
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#325 draggon

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Posted 08 January 2012 - 06:39 PM

I guess they really are last year's cars now, but the series continues into 2012 with a few more races yet to run. I wonder what wonders will comprise this year's cars???

ATB
Al.


As I remember in sixtee-nine, an inline built with all the angle-winder tricks,even plummer, could pound a lot of cars into the ground! We had it on aerodynamics.

Im really liking this thread, as before this, I thot I was the only one to run an inline thingie in open comp. And then there was that whole debate about drop arms.......
Glenn Asher





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