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Making a Cox Gurney stocker


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#126 Mattb

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Posted 27 August 2015 - 07:16 PM

Bruce, I've gutted the second issue AMT kits for the wheels/tires. They are slightly smaller than 1/8 inch. I've used 1/8 id brass tubing for the front axles to go thru. Running them thru a piece 2 inches long take most of the wobble out of them. One of the guys just drills his out to 1/8 inch. That's what I will do in the future. I am using them as fronts on my Indy cars. The carded Gurney chassis came with Ford GT wheels and Dunlop tires, I think. Different than the wheels that came in the kit.

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Vintage Cox Slot Cars




#127 racie35

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Posted 27 August 2015 - 09:04 PM

Thanks Matt....I've actually drilled a few sets for use on another project...they come 3mm for some crazy reason. From what I can tell on my instructions(copy) the gurney galaxie has the spinner in front only??
I didn't know the carded chassis had different wheels,that's good to know
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#128 dc-65x

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Posted 28 August 2015 - 09:52 AM

You're right Bruce. Free wheeling fronts with spinners.......on the front only.
 

I've had several requests for Gurney stocker front wheels.

GurneyStocker011.jpg

I made a few extra pair years ago but they are long gone. I remember trying to make mine an exact copy of the originals. Since I don't have any originals to compare them with today, I can't be certain. On the extra wheels I made, I ground a groove in the tire mounting surface of the wheel to identify them as repops.

Anywho, here's a "measured drawing" of the wheels I made in case anyone feels the need to make their own:

GurneyStockerWheelDrawing-0001.jpg

Of course you should size the axle hole to fit whatever your 1/8" axle measures out to be.

To cut the .125" inner radius I used a 1/4" diameter 2-flute ball end mill set up as a lathe tool. There's a lot of tool contact area and it will chatter on you if you run it too fast.

Onward....


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#129 racie35

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Posted 28 August 2015 - 11:45 AM

Thanks Rick....my info sheets are copies and I wasn't sure....after looking at the amt again I think they are too much bigger in dia to pass at a glance. You would hafta use 4 all the way around to trick your eyes. I'm happy I got good orig parts to start with ,you know I'd been looking.
That said....we got 3. My brother and I doing a gurney eats up 2. We were thinking it would be cool to do the other as something else. Maybe a petty Plymouth, number 21 fairlane, one of the Chervys that ran nascar..something to park it near. What are your thoughts on that? Btw,Cox screwed up not doing it for us .
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#130 dc-65x

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Posted 28 August 2015 - 12:36 PM

 

...............We were thinking it would be cool to do the other as something else. Maybe a petty Plymouth, number 21 fairlane, one of the Chervys that ran nascar..something to park it near...............

 

Maybe do a "What If" version, meaning do a big name 1967 driver and car as Cox might have done for a companion to the Gurney.


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#131 Mattb

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Posted 28 August 2015 - 03:56 PM

You could do an Olds Toronado. That was the model Cox had planned on using that chassis for. Fortunately somebody thought a 66 Ford was a better idea.
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#132 racie35

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Posted 28 August 2015 - 05:46 PM

I think we have the tornado amt kit somewhere. I'd rather do a car that race I think. Same period etc.
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#133 dc-65x

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Posted 03 September 2015 - 04:56 PM

Bruce has pointed out a boo boo in my dimensions below......I hope it's the only one! :shok:
 

I had some requests for some basic chassis dimensions. Here are some ball park dimensions:

CoxGurneyStockerDimensions0001.jpg


The 3.875 dimension from the rear axle to the drop arm down stop should be 2.875.....SORRY!

 

Thanks for pointing that out Bruce :good:


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#134 Mattb

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Posted 03 September 2015 - 07:30 PM

A small group of us guys have a great relationship with the local track owner. He lets us play on a "closed nite". We reward him generously with purchases, pizza and stuff we make. Last week he showed me a 66 Ford he built for their spec race series, then he pulled out a complete Gurney chassis and said I could have it. I couldn't do that, I told him I would give him $100 for it. Later I told him I would buy it in the future, but I wanted to take it home and see what I could do with it. I put together one of my old 66 model kits as a Cox body and put it on the frame with correct interior and driver. I put resin window bars on it, cut out the gas door and fixed that, then dremeled the windshield wipers off. I put some white lacquer on it and gave it back to him. Told him to build it and finish it and I would buy it whenever he decides to sell it. He said a guy brought in a box of stuff to sell and the chassis was in it. Everything else was just some new stuff. He builds great looking cars, so it will look better than any of my work!
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#135 racie35

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Posted 04 September 2015 - 11:15 AM

You better give that to me...I'm not as gracious.
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#136 dc-65x

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Posted 15 September 2015 - 04:20 PM

Here's a "Gurney Stocker" style car from my buddy Rodney in his own words:

 

Rick,

 

I finished the 1965 Gurney Riverside Ford.  The car uses a Cox chassis that was totally rebuilt by Rich Roberts.  The body mounts and main rails are new.  Great chassis workmanship by Rich.

 

gurney4.jpg

 

The model used is an AMT 1965 Ford Galaxie.  This was chosen over the more traditionally used 1966 model kit.

 

gurney5.jpg

 

Resin interior and bumpers are used.  The resin interior is thicker than the original and the area above the rear tires needed to be thinned out to clear the tires.

 

gurney1.jpg

 

The wipers and some emblems were sanded off a a gas filler was added.  The wing windows and frames were left on for more body strength.    

 

gurney2.jpg   

 

The body was painted with Tamiya lacquer paints  White primer was used. Then bright mica was sprayed on.  While the bright mica paint is still wet, dark mica Metallic was misted on.  Then also while still wet, Tamiya clear is sprayed on.  Original Cady decals are used.  The body is then finished off with Mr. Super UV Cut clear over the decals and paint. 

 

gurney6.jpg

 

After many tests, I think "Germans" work best on the Cox Gurney stockers.  The motor should be glued in the chassis with some type of Zap glue (can bearing and endbell side).  No hopping or other vibrations this way.  Get yours out and try it Rick.

 

gurney3.jpg

 

Thanks for sharing Rodney and I'll try the gluing in the motor trick. :good:


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#137 Bill from NH

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Posted 15 September 2015 - 08:13 PM

1/32 guys also use hot glue & silicone for glueing in motors. :)


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How old should a highway be before you tell it, that it has been adopted?


#138 don.siegel

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Posted 16 September 2015 - 03:17 AM

Yeah Bill, but if you really want to be vintage you should wrap the motor in six layers of masking tape... 

 

Guys, while I was looking for different wheels, I think I came across a pair of Gurney fronts, will post these to see what you think. 

 

Don 



#139 Bill from NH

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Posted 16 September 2015 - 09:51 AM

Don, we used masking tape to make different sized armature slugs. :)

 

Rick posted some engineering drawings of the Gurney fronts he made. They're probably on the earlier pages of this thread. I found them in post #128.


Bill Fernald
 

How old should a highway be before you tell it, that it has been adopted?


#140 TSR

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Posted 16 September 2015 - 10:28 AM

Markus Ward,
I have some of the original Cox Ford chassis body mounts. In the 1990's I was able to get right and left sides of the ones unsoldered by the gals at REH, to make open-wheel Lotus turbine cars with a Russkit body. I can spare a few.
PM me for help.



#141 Jairus

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Posted 16 September 2015 - 11:57 AM

Nice inspiration!
I needed this... as I am trying to finish up another Galaxie build for an article in Slot Cars Mag. 
Thanks for posting Rick!
Rod's car is looking good.


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#142 TSR

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Posted 16 September 2015 - 03:17 PM

A few years ago, a gentleman made these great display boxes for the Cox Ford Galaxie... a great way to display the car as the box's graphics were quite cool.

 


 

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#143 markus

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Posted 17 September 2015 - 10:41 AM

Markus Ward,
I have some of the original Cox Ford chassis body mounts. In the 1990's I was able to get right and left sides of the ones unsoldered by the gals at REH, to make open-wheel Lotus turbine cars with a Russkit body. I can spare a few.
PM me for help.

PM Sent, thanks!


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#144 racie35

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Posted 18 September 2015 - 08:31 AM

Those boxes are cool.
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#145 Mattb

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Posted 18 September 2015 - 12:22 PM

Is the box maker still around? I haven't heard or talked to him for a couple years. Last I knew he was selling some rtr 2E boxes on Ebay. He makes great looking repro boxes.
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#146 TSR

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Posted 18 September 2015 - 07:54 PM

Matt, I do not know. I have had no contact with the person in several years.



#147 proptop

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Posted 19 September 2015 - 08:28 PM

I have one of these chassis, but someone removed the body mounts long ago...

 

In Rick's drawing above, I see a couple of dimensions for the mounts, but a few are missing...could someone post the details of the body mounts please?

The height of the sheet brass side pieces that have the tabs for the body for instance...and the lengths of the 3/32" brass tubes that connect them to the central part of the chassis...details so I can make mine whole again...:)


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#148 Slot_Grasshopper

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Posted 20 September 2015 - 05:25 PM

   Here's some more dimensions of the body mounts :

 

 

 

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#149 proptop

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Posted 20 September 2015 - 05:32 PM

Hey...that'll do it...thanks! :)

 

I just saved that collection of images, and now using it as my "wallpaper"...blown-up to full screen size... :sun_bespectacled:


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#150 Bugeye

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Posted 21 September 2015 - 03:23 PM

I sure could use a set of front wheels for mine.  :)


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