"Balls-Out California Choti Proxy" official rules
#276
Posted 31 May 2012 - 07:40 AM
I think these issues are very important in all areas of the build
Motor/Arm
Chassis
Body
Tires
11/4/49-1/23/15
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#277
Posted 31 May 2012 - 08:26 AM
Are the elephant ears on this motor of the correct time frame for this race? If not can you please post a pic or two of some that are? Thanks.
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#278
Posted 31 May 2012 - 10:19 AM
So, if you hand make your heat sinks, then they will be deemed legal whatever you come up with. If you choose to use a manufactured item, it should be provable that they were available during the summer of 1970. (post an advertisement scanned from Model Car and Track or Car Model) Or... hack them up so they LOOK hand made.
I purchased these from "Oldcertus" and he said they first became available in 1968. I used them on my Mule back in January. Not sure if I need them for the car I am currently building, but may have to move the whole motor over if I burn my current one up. (oops)
Testing is this Saturday hopefully.
Jairus H Watson - Artist
Need something painted, soldered, carved, or killed? - jairuswtsn@aol.com
www.slotcarsmag.com
www.jairuswatson.net
http://www.ratholecustoms.com
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#279
Posted 31 May 2012 - 10:23 AM
I'm in if the date will be set for after July like Barney has requested. It gives us all time to get chassis built and tested, motors built and burned in, and rebalanced and all that.
Sounds like fun.
Hmmmmm, I don't see my name listed yet????
11/27/57-8/12/22
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#280
Posted 31 May 2012 - 11:21 AM
I only got involved with this earlier in the week and haven't had the opportunity to read the whole thread yet. Sorry. Thanks for answering my question.
Maybe I can sit down this weekend and take it all in. Last weekend was no holiday for me...yard work, chores, building a gate in my privacy fence, etc. UGH!!!
"We offer prompt service... no matter how long it takes!"
"We're not happy unless you're not happy"
"You want it when?"
#281
Posted 31 May 2012 - 12:02 PM
New update posted in Post #5. I will add updates there in the future so they don't get buried and lost. Craig is added and as always, no rule changes have been made.
Also, still finishing up the Dynamic Challenge race and that is my first priority!
So I just decided no testing of my Balls Out entry on Saturday because I am taking all 25 proxy cars to the track to show the track owner what we are all about. I want him and myself to concentrate on the task at hand which is still the Dynamic Challenge. So... to that end and until the current race is over, I may not be giving 100% to the Ball Out Choti Race.
Jairus H Watson - Artist
Need something painted, soldered, carved, or killed? - jairuswtsn@aol.com
www.slotcarsmag.com
www.jairuswatson.net
http://www.ratholecustoms.com
Check out some of the cool stuff on my Fotki!
#282
Posted 31 May 2012 - 12:24 PM
I purchased these from "Oldcertus" and he said they first became available in 1968.
Jairus, no way. "Old Certus" is very mistaken there. Those copper heat sinks appeared in 1975 and are certainly not by Certus, however I cannot remember who made them. One goes over the motor, the other on the front side of it.
The FIRST such "elephant ear" heat sinks (two overhead, parallel pieces) appeared in the middle of 1972 and became truly popular from 1973 to the advent of the cobalt era in the early 1980s. There were no such heat sinks in the 1960s, to a single exception, that of the "Blown Hemi" by Thunderbolt that had long, thin aluminum tongues retained by the brush spring screws on each side these motors.
The FIRST aluminum heat sink plates had the same shape as 1/2 of the end bell and appeared in 1969 on the Mura "B", then in late 1970 on the Mura "C" can motor.
There is no known example of "elephant ear" heat sinks until the Parma "Dougherty" examples, issued in late 1972.
Just to make sure that you know the facts and where you decide to stand about the use of such heat sinks within your regulations.
I was also asked on a PM about these "Steube" tires:
They are "Steube" only in name. Mike had sold the use of his name to Lee Yurada, the half-owner of Associated Electrics, who marketed a whole line of "Steube" parts in 1969 and 1970. The list included the tires above, available mostly in blue of gray, some front wheels also with the telescopic rim, brass drop arms and side pans (the ones with the "round" holes and half-moon cutouts, plus conventional models), gears and even armatures that were made for Associated by Mura.
The groove in the center was supposed to act as a pocket for glue, so that the car would not get bogged in heavy stuff. Laughable of course but now cool collectibles! The rubber might be a bit dry for serious use.
Philippe de Lespinay
#283
Posted 31 May 2012 - 12:25 PM
- No angled hinged pans.
- No shaker or centerline hinge pans.
I have a feeling I may have to redesign my body mount arrangement. haha.
ATB
Al.
#284
Posted 31 May 2012 - 12:38 PM
Angled hinge pans are like this:
Hinges should be parallel as that is what everyone was doing back in the day. Provided you choose to put in pans.
Shaker is the modern Flexy chassis and I believe that's synonym for "centerline". But as before, someone will most likely prove me wrong.
Jairus H Watson - Artist
Need something painted, soldered, carved, or killed? - jairuswtsn@aol.com
www.slotcarsmag.com
www.jairuswatson.net
http://www.ratholecustoms.com
Check out some of the cool stuff on my Fotki!
#285
Posted 31 May 2012 - 12:46 PM
My vote is for NO WINGS of any type....
1955-2018
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#286
Posted 31 May 2012 - 12:49 PM
i agree,you put it in THE ORIGINAL RULES,Have U decided about the one winger?
My vote is for NO WINGS of any type....
NO WINGS
dont go changing them for JUST 1 PERSON
8/16/49-9/18/13
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#287
Posted 31 May 2012 - 12:52 PM
At least my wheels are old enough!
Slots-4-Ever
Brian McPherson
REM Raceway
"We didn't realize we were making memories, we just knew we were having FUN!"
#288
Posted 31 May 2012 - 12:56 PM
Jairus H Watson - Artist
Need something painted, soldered, carved, or killed? - jairuswtsn@aol.com
www.slotcarsmag.com
www.jairuswatson.net
http://www.ratholecustoms.com
Check out some of the cool stuff on my Fotki!
#289
Posted 31 May 2012 - 01:39 PM
Okay, heat sinks are out. Wish you had spoken up months ago when we were talking about this.
Jairus, sorry, I did not see it until now.
Philippe de Lespinay
#290
Posted 31 May 2012 - 02:42 PM
Re angled hinge pans... It is obvious in the photo you posted above that the pans are angled, with quite an extreme taper cut into them, however, in the chassis below (which you posted in the first post and have said is legal), the pans are parallel, but the hinges are slightly angled inwards towards the front. My pans are similarly arranged. Will this still be OK?
Re Ray's one-winger...The rules as they stand do not state that wings are not allowed. They say that no added spoilers wings or air dams allowed and that anything that even LOOKS like a modern wing car body or chassis will not be allowed. As Ray's one-winger neither has added aero parts nor looks remotely like a modern wing car I can't see any reason to ban it. In the rules discussion thread there was a proposed rule which might have outlawed the one-winger, when a max height of 2 inches was proposed. But this rule wasn't adopted.
If we banned any aero item that resembled a wing wouldn't that outlaw these two (potentially winning) bodies also?
Personally, I don't think the one-winger will be quick, but what do I know??? I do know its a masterpiece of vac-forming, but I wont be running it hehe.
ATB
Al
#291
Posted 31 May 2012 - 02:53 PM
- Minimum .055" chassis clearance measured under the rear axle at start of race including gear.
I didn't see any info in the rules about the clearance up front. Or, did I miss it somewhere?
P.S. If anyone has a vintage motor bracket, some rear rims (a few sets) and a jet flag or two I could use them.
11/27/57-8/12/22
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#292
Posted 31 May 2012 - 03:00 PM
Many props fer shure!Many many props to Jairus on this project.
I appreciate people who sacrifice time and energy to a project like this,
especially when we as slotcar people can be such a pain at times when it comes to rules.
Few rules is a good thing in "thingie racing" and I like Jairus's take on these rules.
That being said I am not a fan of using a Modern Parma W66 type body on a pre 70's thingie. JMHO.
I've been skimming over 10 pages of stuff and was wondering if there is a vintage gear rule? Are vintage Cox crown gears good enough or should I check my Box O'Junk for Weldun gear sets?
8/19/54-8/?/21
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#293
Posted 31 May 2012 - 03:21 PM
11/4/49-1/23/15
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#294
Posted 31 May 2012 - 07:10 PM
I also read between the lines that the chassis is not to touch the track at any point of the race; beginning, during, or the end.
Not even sure that the front wheels have to touch either, just as long as the chassis does not touch the track.
The wheels would have to touch the track before the chassis, so the chassis does not touch the track.
What other ways can it be said so the chassis does not touch the track?
Steve King
#295
Posted 31 May 2012 - 08:42 PM
Jairus H Watson - Artist
Need something painted, soldered, carved, or killed? - jairuswtsn@aol.com
www.slotcarsmag.com
www.jairuswatson.net
http://www.ratholecustoms.com
Check out some of the cool stuff on my Fotki!
#296
Posted 31 May 2012 - 10:45 PM
Bravo Steve! I couldn't have said it better. Common sense it seems still holds reign in Australia.
Yeah but vague rules can get ya in trouble. Rather be safe than sorry.
11/27/57-8/12/22
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#297
Posted 31 May 2012 - 11:12 PM
Jairus H Watson - Artist
Need something painted, soldered, carved, or killed? - jairuswtsn@aol.com
www.slotcarsmag.com
www.jairuswatson.net
http://www.ratholecustoms.com
Check out some of the cool stuff on my Fotki!
#298
Posted 01 June 2012 - 12:12 AM
Steve King
#299
Posted 01 June 2012 - 12:49 AM
"We offer prompt service... no matter how long it takes!"
"We're not happy unless you're not happy"
"You want it when?"
#300
Posted 01 June 2012 - 04:16 AM
John is building my motor, but we could do with a Mura 'A' end bell if anyone has one going spare. John put a call out a few pages back but so far we have had no luck. Failing that he says a Mura 'B' end bell will work with a little shimming. I'd be interested if anyone can help out and happily provide some recompense via PayPal.
Thanks in advance.
Al.
Oh, and a Jet Flag would be useful too.