"Balls-Out California Choti Proxy" official rules
#326
Posted 05 June 2012 - 10:38 PM
Boy howdy that's tall gears for a hot 24 arm !!!
Paul Wolcott
#327
Posted 05 June 2012 - 11:12 PM
Just wish the track was closer since it costs about $15 in gas each time I make the trip.
Jairus H Watson - Artist
Need something painted, soldered, carved, or killed? - jairuswtsn@aol.com
www.slotcarsmag.com
www.jairuswatson.net
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Check out some of the cool stuff on my Fotki!
#328
Posted 06 June 2012 - 12:42 AM
Sorry for drift, I can't help myself
Paul Wolcott
#329
Posted 06 June 2012 - 05:27 AM
-john
#330
Posted 06 June 2012 - 07:15 AM
I know little about what winds work well on which track and car type, so this is a great help.
Jairus, what is the name of that body?
I love the Hoola dancer in the grass skirt on the dash of your sweet old Ford.
"it's just Rich$Kraft"
*choppers and hotrods*
#331
Posted 06 June 2012 - 07:44 AM
Very useful info Jairus, the car looks great sitting there. Wow ! it's going to be hard to pick a body Been working on a newer version #8,( closer to the original one) but, this body your using really looks good. Not to mention a few X-project Choti-noda out there too
#332
Posted 06 June 2012 - 08:00 AM
Blacklight is running an 8t pinion with a 32t crown (at least as far as I remember). So thats a 1:4 gear ratio.
Jairus has tested his new car with an 8t pinion with a 28t crown, but Paul thinks that's "Tall" for a hot arm and so J is considering a 7t pinion with the 28t crown, again a gear ratio of 1:4
I understand ratios affect top speed and acceleration, but don't get all the terms used.
So if someone could explain in simple terms what tall, short and long mean and what the characteristics are for both, why/how arm hotness affect this, what the different characteristics are of the two 1:4 ratios mentioned above, if any.... Oh, and give me the perfect combination for two balls-out races on a King tracks (hehe). Then I'd be most grateful.
I'm sure I did this stuff in physics years ago, but as I say, that was years ago.
Al.
PS. Thanks for sharing that information Jairus, very useful for everyone involved, but particularly for the likes of me.
#333
Posted 06 June 2012 - 08:28 AM
No, just was wondering if you had checked all of them and if any other problems cropped up is all. I had thought you had said you were going to do that before you ran your new car and had not seen any report back on them till your post yesterday on running your Balls 'O Fire Thingie...... take a breath and relax Jairus.....
Barney Poynor
12/26/51-1/31/22
Requiescat in Pace
#334
Posted 06 June 2012 - 09:08 AM
Rich, the body is a #15 in Choti's list and they didn't name them. Ray (O2R) Fellows of Raynoda body works did the pull.
Jairus H Watson - Artist
Need something painted, soldered, carved, or killed? - jairuswtsn@aol.com
www.slotcarsmag.com
www.jairuswatson.net
http://www.ratholecustoms.com
Check out some of the cool stuff on my Fotki!
#335
Posted 06 June 2012 - 09:33 AM
OK Guys, not being a racer of either slots nor 1:1s I'm always a bit confused about gear ratios.
Blacklight is running an 8t pinion with a 32t crown (at least as far as I remember). So thats a 1:4 gear ratio.
Jairus has tested his new car with an 8t pinion with a 28t crown, but Paul thinks that's "Tall" for a hot arm and so J is considering a 7t pinion with the 28t crown, again a gear ratio of 1:4
I understand ratios affect top speed and acceleration, but don't get all the terms used.
So if someone could explain in simple terms what tall, short and long mean and what the characteristics are for both, why/how arm hotness affect this, what the different characteristics are of the two 1:4 ratios mentioned above, if any.... Oh, and give me the perfect combination for two balls-out races on a King tracks (hehe). Then I'd be most grateful.
I'm sure I did this stuff in physics years ago, but as I say, that was years ago.
Al.
PS. Thanks for sharing that information Jairus, very useful for everyone involved, but particularly for the likes of me.
Tall or High 3:1 or 3.5:1 means the motor is turning over fewer RPM's to move the car forward one tire rotation.
A low ratio increases 4/1 or 4.5/1 means more RPM's to move the car forward which is easier on the motor.
A tall gear ratio means higher top speed but might not be as quick off the line. A low gear ratio provides quicker starts out of the turn but top speed might suffer. Nobody wants their car screaming at top speed all the way around the track because there are also turns to consider. So we look for a compromise between the two
I am building my car for a King track. The race is won or lost on that long drag strip down to the banked turn. That is why I went with such a high gear ratio and put in a #24s to give it the horsepower to provide the torque. As it was plenty quick out of the turns. In fact, I think I found the perfect ratio for this arm on a King track, but... it's un-drivable on my track. Way too quick and can't seem to stretch it's legs. (Plus, the motor did get pretty warm so maybe it's working too hard?)
Might go back to that ratio before mailing into the first race, but for now I want to experiment with handling. That means making the car more drivable, example: lower the ratio to 4/1 and installing a #26s wind arm along with a few other... modifications to the chassis.
Jairus H Watson - Artist
Need something painted, soldered, carved, or killed? - jairuswtsn@aol.com
www.slotcarsmag.com
www.jairuswatson.net
http://www.ratholecustoms.com
Check out some of the cool stuff on my Fotki!
#336
Posted 06 June 2012 - 10:15 AM
Thank you John.
Rich, the body is a #15 in Choti's list and they didn't name them. Ray (O2R) Fellows of Raynoda body works did the pull.
Thanks, I'll have Ray send me a couple, it looks like a great choice.
"it's just Rich$Kraft"
*choppers and hotrods*
#337
Posted 06 June 2012 - 10:19 AM
Just one further question to anyone that wants to chip in...
What is the difference between a 4:1 (28t:7t) and a 4:1 (32t:8t) arrangement, or is there no discernable difference?
Al.
#338
Posted 06 June 2012 - 10:38 AM
Which by the way is being raised to .062.
So for all the rule junkies, the minimum clearance is being raised from .055 to .062. Scream all you want, it'll fall on deaf ears at my end. I tested my car for 161 laps and noted some very observable tire wear!
In order to make a set of tires go two races we need more clearance and that is just common sense.
Jairus H Watson - Artist
Need something painted, soldered, carved, or killed? - jairuswtsn@aol.com
www.slotcarsmag.com
www.jairuswatson.net
http://www.ratholecustoms.com
Check out some of the cool stuff on my Fotki!
#339
Posted 06 June 2012 - 10:56 AM
I was working on .062 anyway so it doesn't affect me.
Al
#340
Posted 06 June 2012 - 10:56 AM
Will have to see how this new ruling affects my car.
Won't SBR rubber wear a little more aggressive then natural rubber tires?
And also, doesn't the track conditions declare on how the rubber will wear?
Just curious.
Slots-4-Ever
Brian McPherson
REM Raceway
"We didn't realize we were making memories, we just knew we were having FUN!"
#341
Posted 06 June 2012 - 11:24 AM
Jairus H Watson - Artist
Need something painted, soldered, carved, or killed? - jairuswtsn@aol.com
www.slotcarsmag.com
www.jairuswatson.net
http://www.ratholecustoms.com
Check out some of the cool stuff on my Fotki!
#342
Posted 06 June 2012 - 12:30 PM
BINGO!
"Tire wear will be a factor Jairus with big motors..... I think 3 min heats is good." post 181
Going to .062 will prove a good idea.....IMO
"and noted some very observable tire wear!"
Both types will wear but natural should wear a little less. The motors spinning the rear tires is whats doing it for the most part.....
Barney Poynor
12/26/51-1/31/22
Requiescat in Pace
#343
Posted 06 June 2012 - 12:47 PM
What do you paint the Ray bodies with so they don't die a quick explosive death?
"Just once I want my life to be like an '80s movie,
preferably one with a really awesome musical number for no apparent reason."
#344
Posted 06 June 2012 - 12:54 PM
Prep is the key when using water based paint. I scrub the body with steel wool to provide "tooth" then wipe it out with 91% alcohol prior to masking and after masking to remove all skin oil.
Jairus H Watson - Artist
Need something painted, soldered, carved, or killed? - jairuswtsn@aol.com
www.slotcarsmag.com
www.jairuswatson.net
http://www.ratholecustoms.com
Check out some of the cool stuff on my Fotki!
#345
Posted 06 June 2012 - 01:03 PM
Barney Poynor
12/26/51-1/31/22
Requiescat in Pace
#346
Posted 06 June 2012 - 01:13 PM
"No maintenance between races and if the car breaks or fails, it gets sent home". And, if the chassis hits the track on the second race it is done! Plenty of room for wear in those rules. Even my Flexi racer could make it 2 and sometimes 3 races on a single set of tires and that was way heavier.
Jairus H Watson - Artist
Need something painted, soldered, carved, or killed? - jairuswtsn@aol.com
www.slotcarsmag.com
www.jairuswatson.net
http://www.ratholecustoms.com
Check out some of the cool stuff on my Fotki!
#347
Posted 06 June 2012 - 02:00 PM
11/4/49-1/23/15
Requiescat in Pace
#348
Posted 06 June 2012 - 02:30 PM
Slots-4-Ever
Brian McPherson
REM Raceway
"We didn't realize we were making memories, we just knew we were having FUN!"
#349
Posted 06 June 2012 - 03:02 PM
Jairus H Watson - Artist
Need something painted, soldered, carved, or killed? - jairuswtsn@aol.com
www.slotcarsmag.com
www.jairuswatson.net
http://www.ratholecustoms.com
Check out some of the cool stuff on my Fotki!
#350
Posted 06 June 2012 - 03:38 PM
Leaving the gluing/condition of the tracks up to the Track owner.............makes tire choice just a crap shoot. If one track is totally different than the other..............Oh Well......................Hello Wall
I personally have never seen a "Flush" track.............Maybe copper tape...lol
Sure would like some input from folks that race at the two tracks
11/4/49-1/23/15
Requiescat in Pace