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One of "my built" motors


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#101 CoastalAngler1

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Posted 09 July 2014 - 09:33 AM

Gator Bob said:

Align set-up and solder brush holders/hoods.

Notch is cut for good solder flow. 

This is done on a dumbly dumb bell end bell.

Then .... Paint and decorate the can any color you want.

Get your parts. 

 

I am pretty sure I can do all these - what an education I'm getting!  :good:

Can you show me how the magnets and shim go in the can?

And the arm spacers / assembly.

 

Question: are you using metal sleeves on the spring posts?

 

I promise not to copy cat - my 16D can will be a marx mustard colored one, and the arm will be different :wacko2:


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#102 SlotStox#53

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Posted 09 July 2014 - 09:48 AM

If this is going in your Rod & Custom car Bob you won't be able to use the shunted brushes . :)

& CoastalAngler no post protectors for this motor if it's for the Rod & Custom race/car ...weren't around at that time.
If it's for another car than post protectors and shunted brushes are GO! !

:D

#103 Gator Bob

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Posted 09 July 2014 - 12:21 PM

The arm has the plastic insulators and blank that IIRC was sold in the 507-R kits and loose.

 

The Champion shunted brushes are for 26D holders and do not fit this motor.

They have been replaced with Associated brand 16D size. :good:

 

It will be 'fire it up' day. :D

Watch it go :wacko2: ... "zoom, zoom ...no boom"  :bomb: 


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#104 CoastalAngler1

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Posted 09 July 2014 - 12:26 PM

& CoastalAngler no post protectors for this motor if it's for the Rod & Custom race/car ...weren't around at that time.
If it's for another car than post protectors and shunted brushes are GO! !

:D

Not ready to play...not entering. I need more skills - Onward Teachers!  


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#105 SlotStox#53

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Posted 09 July 2014 - 03:58 PM

Those plastic insulators are on the RTR 507R motors aswell.. got one waiting to be cleaned up, neat arm with the grind balancing.

Bob, is that color you did the can a Dodge/Hemi one? Looks really cool.

#106 Gator Bob

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Posted 09 July 2014 - 07:38 PM

Yes, Mopar color....

"SubLime" on a Dodge and "LimeLight" on a Plymouth.

 

 

              "One of MY built Cars"

137763806_display.jpg



#107 SlotStox#53

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Posted 09 July 2014 - 08:08 PM

Oh wow that is one sweet ride Bob, always loved the muscle cars :D You still got it?

#108 Gator Bob

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Posted 10 July 2014 - 01:17 AM

Car is gone , sold 2003.

Darn, I didn't like doing that... :dash2:

 

Back to the motor.

 

Put it together all nice and neat.

Wow, it started at like .5 v.

Broke it in @ 2v for 5 minutes and 3v for 3 minutes. Only at about .65 amp draw.

Put it up to 6v for about 30 seconds and then bounced it to 12v.

 

It is a freaking 'dog' ... that arm just will not get up on the revs at all.

Discouraging outcome so far.

IMG_3139.JPG

IMG_3141.JPG

IMG_3142.JPG

 

 

 

 

 

 


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#109 Gator Bob

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Posted 12 July 2014 - 06:11 PM

It likes this one better. :sun_bespectacled:

Motor problem solved. :D

 

92.7 "Screamer of the week" :shok:

IMG_3148.JPG


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#110 Gator Bob

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Posted 07 October 2014 - 10:39 PM

Forgot to post the finished product. :sun_bespectacled: Cheetah got claws. :shok:

.

.

.

.

 

IMG_3160 r2.jpg SubLime green.jpg


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#111 Gator Bob

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Posted 07 October 2014 - 10:43 PM

So... What's all the fuss about?

 

IMG_3279s.jpg

 

 


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#112 bluecars

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Posted 08 October 2014 - 12:01 AM

:wacko2: That depends, are those really small people or a really big motor? :wacko2:


Robert "Red" Valantine :diablo: 


#113 Gator Bob

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Posted 08 October 2014 - 12:38 AM

:shok:  :laugh2:

 

Both  :o - Final answer     :crazy:  :clapping:


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#114 bluecars

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Posted 08 October 2014 - 06:12 AM

:o But what if I want to buy a vowel ? :dash2:  :sarcastic_hand: 


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#115 CoastalAngler1

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Posted 08 October 2014 - 06:52 AM

That looks like my new motor! :yes:  :ph34r:  - I think the car is gonna weigh plenty - but what about taking up all the lanes with the wide stance?  How much rear tire air pressure do I need?


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#116 Michael Rigsby

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Posted 08 October 2014 - 07:48 AM

How much rear tire air pressure do I need?

 

 

 Ummm...LOTS!


"... a good and wholesome thing is a little harmless fun in this world; it tones a body up and keeps him human and prevents him from souring." - Mark Twain

#117 Gator Bob

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Posted 08 October 2014 - 01:35 PM

:o But what if I want to buy a vowel ? :dash2:  :sarcastic_hand: 

 

Red, you paid your dues ... vowels are free.

 

That looks like my new motor!     - I think the car is gonna weigh plenty - but what about taking up all the lanes with the wide stance?  How much rear tire air pressure do I need?

 

Yes it is !  :bb:

It's on the bench and the 'factory tour group' is getting to see the magic tricks.   :umnik2:  :whistle3:  :secret:  :huh:  :search:  :popcorm1:


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#118 Gator Bob

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Posted 15 October 2014 - 09:56 PM

It's all good ....just 'MyTuned'  :good: Move along factory tour visitors nothing to see here :spiteful:  :crazy:

 

Another 'Happy' customer. :D

"I gotta thank the Landoll boys back at the shop for building a great hot rod" :clapping: 

 

IMG_3292.JPG

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


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#119 CoastalAngler1

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Posted 15 October 2014 - 10:30 PM


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#120 bluecars

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Posted 16 October 2014 - 06:19 AM

:dash2: Speed don't kill. It's that sudden stop that will get you. :sarcastic_hand:


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Robert "Red" Valantine :diablo: 


#121 CoastalAngler1

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Posted 16 October 2014 - 01:01 PM

I like the bullet you made for me!   :heart:  :yes3:  :yes:  :ph34r:

 

That Thang needs a chassis!   :tease:


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#122 Gator Bob

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Posted 17 October 2014 - 11:00 AM

Or 1in7 Barrel .... :laugh2:


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#123 Gator Bob

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Posted 15 November 2014 - 01:43 PM

Rocket Kirkwood Gilbert shunted brushes.png

What brushes are those that have shunts or did you make them?

 

Marty, I got the answer....

 

 

 

The "Lee Gilbert" shunted brushes were Kirkwood L-206 Grade with a shunt pressed in during production and later brush runs didn't have the shunt pressed in.

Every Production Mura motor made from 1971 and until early 2000 had L-206 brushes in them.

 

Kirkwood L-206 Rocket Brushes....high copper content. Yes 70%

 

 

Those brushes came with the shunts installed, I can't remember who mad them but they were super SANO, expensive and hard to find. I bought them at Zepplin Hobbies in 1989 or 90. I used them in my championship "Outlaw Flexi" class cars. Save 2 pairs for this kind of motor, 1 pair left.

Date Correction - 1990 or 91


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#124 Gator Bob

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Posted 01 December 2014 - 01:55 PM

This clearly is not ....

IMG_3355.JPG


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#125 CoastalAngler1

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Posted 01 December 2014 - 06:17 PM

parma get new sealed motors finally?  :roflmao:


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#126 Gator Bob

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Posted 18 January 2015 - 01:24 PM

The pink Parma condom motors were the first attempt at "leveling the playing field for racers that don't have the 'time' to work on motors".

 

:clapping:  :bomb:


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#127 CoastalAngler1

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Posted 18 January 2015 - 01:56 PM

Hey Bob - ever build a GTP MySeries motor?  any advice?


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#128 Gator Bob

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Posted 07 February 2015 - 05:06 PM

Hey Bob - ever build a GTP MySeries motor?  

 

:o No ! 

Everything I run is totally stock.  :D

Right outta the can.


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#129 Gator Bob

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Posted 07 February 2015 - 05:18 PM

   "Troglodyte"

 

The next in the series of 'MY Built'.

"To build in ancient and uncharted territory"

 

What we're gonna do right here is go back, way back. "

 

IMG_3392.JPG


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#130 SlotStox#53

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Posted 07 February 2015 - 08:24 PM

Ah, you're finally diving in at the deep end of padlock infested waters ! :laugh2:

May the force be with you, brave Proxy car builder!
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#131 Gator Bob

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Posted 08 February 2015 - 02:03 AM

:laugh2:  

Maybe the pros break them in like FK motors ... but in the 'deep water'.    :unsure:  :blink:

 Boat motors on the pond with the Bertha and the Butt Sisters on board :shok: .... How many volts captain ? :wacko2:

 

  :wizard: All "The Force" is in that DC-706 I posted that 'produces more current than it consumes' white it is running on the power supply.

No one has explained that one. :umnik2:


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#132 Gator Bob

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Posted 08 February 2015 - 12:58 PM

Help - What do you guys suggest on the build up....?

 

Everything I know (and don't) -

 

A Pittman 13 lam set-up. - check

L-R

  1. A roll threaded Pitt arm -red wire- unknown gauge - unknown voltage rating.
  2. A Ram arm- red wire - unknown gauge - unknown voltage rating.
  3. A Ram arm - copper wire - unknown gauge - unknown voltage rating.
  4. A Pitt arm -red wire- unknown gauge - unknown voltage rating. Shaft cut, I bumped the timing about 20 deg. CCW looking from the endbell side. 

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#133 SlotStox#53

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Posted 08 February 2015 - 03:01 PM

Those Pittman arms "could be" the hotter factory 6 volt ones.. although looking at the 6 volter I've got here its slathered in epoxy over those long comm connection ends & black piece.

Whereas those ones look like they could just fling off the moment the voltage got serious :laugh2:

The 2 RAM ones could be anything from the 3 volt supercharged , tunnel ram equipped 6 volt or regular oem carb 12 volter ...

Give us a few, will dig out a few of the RAM arms I've got to see if any look like your ones :good:

Right this minute I'd choose one of the RAM arms :)

*update*

Checked the stash of RAM bits and your arms could be any number of voltages.. size of wire, color, how they're wound are all fairly similar. The only one that's noticeable is the 3 volt coat hanger in Rick's Cobra :D

Rick's 12v and 3v arms

#134 Gator Bob

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Posted 08 February 2015 - 04:04 PM

Supercharged preferred... lol

 

There aren't any tabs on the Ram commutator, are they rewindable/reusable?

 

I tacked those wires down on the short Pittman.

IMG_3394ms.JPG

 

.

Update:

I don't expect mine to come out as good as Rick's beauty.

The copper wire Ram showing is not a 3 volt fat wire, maybe the red is a 12v  and the copper is a 6v?

Anyone have ohm readings?


Edited by Gator Bob, 08 February 2015 - 05:02 PM.

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#135 SlotStox#53

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Posted 08 February 2015 - 05:44 PM

The wires are electro welded to the comm on the RAM arms, already asked John about rewinding one. ... Nope :laugh2:

 

Here's  an 8 volt RAM that they made to fit the Kemtron Mustang showing the copper colored wire. Shorter comm compared to the RAM arms out of their own motors.

 

 

RAM Mura.jpg

 

RAM Mura 1.jpg


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#136 Gator Bob

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Posted 08 February 2015 - 07:30 PM

Thanks Paul,

Good scaling picture. That looks like the closest in wire size ... guess that Ram is an 8v.

 

 

Could the red wire Pittman be a 6v?

.

.

Pittman 85A 6.JPG

 

 


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#137 SlotStox#53

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Posted 10 February 2015 - 03:03 PM

WIll have to get a close shot of the 6V Pittman that's in the 32 Ford chop top for a closer look :good:

 

Continuing the wire comparison/ just for reference here's a close up of the RAM 3v arm they made for Kemtron's Bronco motor with thick wire & a vivid red color wire. Also the 6V RAM 850 arm nestled inside it's setup .

 

 

3Va.jpg

 

 

3Vb.jpg

 

 

6V Ram.jpg


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#138 Gator Bob

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Posted 10 February 2015 - 04:10 PM

My ohmmeter is 'fritz' today... that's the only way to figure these things out. :umnik2:

There doesn't seem to be a lot of detail on this whole 'volt' rating system. Gauge, color, turns, resistance #s ..... :scratch_one-s_head:

 

Can I have that 3volt, :) please. :D  :laugh2:


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#139 Gator Bob

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Posted 11 February 2015 - 03:26 AM

"Troglodyte" is born!!!

 

I'm all in on the "DC-Punk" motors.

Lotta work, tons of fun... that build really was rewarding. :D

IMG_3405s.JPG

IMG_3410s.JPG

IMG_3406s.JPG

IMG_3412s.JPG

IMG_3421s.JPG

IMG_3419s.JPG


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#140 Pitt Man

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Posted 11 February 2015 - 05:07 AM

Very cool motor, Bob :good:

 

I particularly like the sweet little wire loom.

 

One lil' tip, now that you have installed ball bearings, whack off the unused raised casting that surrounded the old oilites.

 

This will give you a bit more room for mounting the gear up close to the casting which in turn gives you more room for tires and holding the 3 1/4" max width.

 

The alternating painted lams looks awesome. I considered doing a red, white and blue scheme, but never got around to it.

 

Job well done, my friend.


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#141 havlicek

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Posted 11 February 2015 - 07:54 AM

KEWL!

 

-john


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#142 SlotStox#53

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Posted 11 February 2015 - 09:49 AM

Now that is sweet ! Think you have mastered the ways of the Padlock :D

#143 Bill from NH

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Posted 11 February 2015 - 10:55 AM

I would have expected to see green "Gator Stripes." :clapping:  :laugh2:


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Bill Fernald
 

My wife says I don't pay enough attention to her, or something like that.  :unknw:


#144 Gator Bob

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Posted 11 February 2015 - 02:26 PM

:laugh2:

 

You guys know me all too well .... :D

 

It took me two days of 'talking to myself' to resist doing Bad Black and Gator Green laminations. :crazy:  :dash2:

I toned it down a bit.... this time... :)  :sarcastic_hand:  


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                            Bob Israelite

#145 Gator Bob

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Posted 11 February 2015 - 02:39 PM

Very cool motor, Bob :good:

 

I particularly like the sweet little wire loom.

 

One lil' tip, now that you have installed ball bearings, whack off the unused raised casting that surrounded the old oilites.

 

This will give you a bit more room for mounting the gear up close to the casting which in turn gives you more room for tires and holding the 3 1/4" max width.

 

The alternating painted lams looks awesome. I considered doing a red, white and blue scheme, but never got around to it.

 

Job well done, my friend.

 

Thanks Bob

Coming from "The Pitt Man" his-self ... that's big.  :good:

 

The loom acts as a strain relief to keep the brush arms in the correct position even if there is 'tug' on the wire when the drop arm comes down (or flag twist/tug if used on a  non-straight-liner). Plus ... the exposed wire has much less 'tension' on the brush arm while acting as a heat sink too  :sun_bespectacled:

 

Thanks for the tip on cutting down the casting at the bearing. :victory:

 

BTW:

I looked at the NOS Pittman DC84-6 you helped me procure off epay and it has what looks like the same gauge red wire.

Could the one I installed be a 6 volt?


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                            Bob Israelite

#146 Pitt Man

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Posted 11 February 2015 - 04:11 PM

Mmmm, that's a tough one to say, Bob.

 

I just compared  an 84-6 motor to an 85 12 volt motor and to my eye they are quite different on wire size.

 

I went another step farther and measured the wires on nos arms, both dc85's. ( I have no 84-6 arms out of a motor)

 

The 6 volt seems to be 28 awg and the 12 volt checks 31awg. These diameters ARE over the insulation so they may be one more size smaller.  Also the 6 volt arm's wire is a darker red than the 12.

 

To make it more confusing the 6 volt arm IS factory epoxied and the 12 isn't, as Paul mentioned earlier, BUT, I also have a nos 85a 6 volt motor that is ink stamped on the frame as a 6 volt, but it is not epoxied???

 

My official call....I dunno :crazy:

 

Rev'em both up and compare may be the answer. Of course to be accurate, they'd both need a fresh zap and equal spring pressure. Then again, the 84 should rev a bit higher anyway. Ohhhh, it's a viscous circle! My little noggin is starting to hurt :wacko2:

 

I really like the heat sink and holding the brush arms still that the wire loom affords you. :victory:

 

The best part is, we're all learning together as we go along. :good:


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Bob Steere

#147 Gator Bob

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Posted 11 February 2015 - 07:21 PM

I fired it up .. pulled 1.3 amps at the start of 6 volts then in about 2 minutes it settled in at .75.

Pulls .83 amp at 12 volts now. ^_^

Zero to full punch (Drag start :clapping: ) ..... it bounces to 1.25 - 1.41 amps. Not enough for me .... :wizard: :bomb:

 

Not zapped yet, poor balance, the stacks seem to have 'run-out.'  Guess I gotta send this arm out.

'Might just have to 'roll my own' arm ....  :D


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                            Bob Israelite

#148 SlotStox#53

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Posted 11 February 2015 - 08:23 PM

If it's anything like the 12v arm I took out of the dc85 to swap in the 6 volt it could be waaaay out there in terms if balance!

Even after John beautifully wound it, new drill blank shaft, it still needed the snot drilled out of 2-3 poles :shok: plus a healthy does of JBweld epoxy balancing aswell.

What lead wire have you used Bob? Looks a fairly hefty gauge .

#149 Gator Bob

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Posted 11 February 2015 - 09:25 PM

I'm used to building motors that :shout:

This one :nea:

 

This is my 'R&D working platform' :spiteful:

Hot Rod train motors...I gotta be nuts :wacko2:

 

 Hmmm ... build one that screams like a C can  :umnik2:... even if I have to stuff it all In a 56-D size can and put 36 volts to it  :wacko:  :stinker: :sarcastic_hand:

 

Paul,

You 'gotta' serial wound?  :o

The wire is TQ brand 16 AWG drag wire. :bb:


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#150 SlotStox#53

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Posted 11 February 2015 - 09:33 PM

Yep, all freshly wound using the HPower serial /sequential pattern.. although the Pittman arm is now sitting in a Kemtron Mustang setup and sings a mighty tune :D

Will have to grab some of that lead wire, got some Marklin that is much thinner.
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