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Good Wood Revival Proxy - work in progress


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#51 Régis4446

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Posted 23 December 2012 - 12:48 PM

Chassis, very simple, it is 9 g, because the engine is heavy and not very powerful.

 

p1070696-1--3a9581c.jpg

 

p1070695-1--3a957d6.jpg

 


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#52 Jairus

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Posted 23 December 2012 - 03:34 PM

Nice metal work Régis!  What motor are you using?


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#53 Régis4446

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Posted 23 December 2012 - 04:19 PM

I use Pittman RP 77

 

303784rp77-1--3a974ce.jpg


Régis Baron

#54 dc-65x

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Posted 23 December 2012 - 04:46 PM

Nice Régis, I love the louvers in the chassis.


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#55 Jairus

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Posted 23 December 2012 - 05:01 PM

That's a good one!  

If you get a chance you should "zap" or "recharge" that magnet.


Jairus H Watson - Artist
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#56 don.siegel

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Posted 23 December 2012 - 07:55 PM

Or try to find a Pittman DC77-6V....

 

Don



#57 Régis4446

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Posted 24 December 2012 - 09:38 AM

Thank you friends.
I think the engine will stay home, I'll just watch the weight.

Merry Christmas to all

 

 

p1070700-1--3a9b38f.jpg

 

p1070702-1--3a9b3a4.jpg

 

p1070701-1--3a9b3b8.jpg[/

 

 

 

 


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#58 Régis4446

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Posted 27 December 2012 - 06:56 AM

Today, stering wheel, alu and wood.

 
p1070730-1--3aa9124.jpg

 

p1070731-1--3aa9134.jpg

 

 p1070732-1--3aa9144.jpg

 

 p1070733-1--3aa914e.jpg


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#59 Bruce Wayne

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Posted 08 January 2013 - 02:09 AM

Once I had a basic body roughed out, it was time to start thinking about the chassis.

With limited experience, I had to use a great deal of imagination in order to interpret the rules and to make one similar to what "might" have built during the 60's. I didn't have much time to research or find any suitable references to go off of, so it was built just as it could have been in 1965 with no modern over the counter parts. Everything was scratchbuilt at home from K&S brass and wire using tools commonly available then. At this stage it still needs some small details such as drop arm stop, axle tube trimming, final polish etc...

 

Goodwood Revival 2013 Edition 002.JPG

 

Goodwood Revival 2013 Edition 004.JPG

 

Goodwood Revival 2013 Edition 008.JPG

 

The body was put on hold about a month ago after it was roughed into it's basic shape (I think it's best to have it fully mounted and fitted on the chassis before going on to finishing the bodywork and paint). With the main chassis work done and the body mounts located, it was time to go back to the body and work on some of the numerous external details. I initially thought the carving was going to be the hard part, but the Basswood is easy to work with and has proven to be a pleasure to carve.

It still has a lot of work to go, so please excuse the smudges and knicks. Initial work has been to place a few bulges, open some holes, start on the grille opening, and begin fabrication of some exhaust pipes...

 

Goodwood Revival 2013 Edition 026.JPG

 

Goodwood Revival 2013 Edition 039.JPG

 

Goodwood Revival 2013 Edition 050.JPG

 


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#60 manitouguy

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Posted 08 January 2013 - 02:37 AM

wow, more wonderful work!!

thanks for keeping us updated

great stuff

 

Ron


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#61 dc-65x

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Posted 08 January 2013 - 11:46 AM

MAN! Those are some GREAT cars :good:


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#62 Rhino

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Posted 12 January 2013 - 04:00 AM

It's been a while since I logged in, and am stunned by what you guys are doing!  Now I have to find  out about this Good Wood Proxy.  I have a 1/32 Cisitalia Coupe that was started a couple years ago.  GORGEOUS WORK, GUYS!!!!!!


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Terry Hreno
Where's the 3-view? I need to carve another body!

#63 Régis4446

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Posted 12 January 2013 - 11:41 AM

It's nice to see other beautiful cars.

 

for Connaught, I made exhaust and front suspension.

 

 

p1070742-1--3b12cf7.jpg

 

p1070741-1--3b12d0f.jpg

 

p1070743-1--3b12d34.jpg

 


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#64 Rhino

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Posted 13 January 2013 - 03:44 PM

Jairus,

 

I've read both threads and am anxious to get started.  I have my geezer goggles and dust mask ready to go.  Being a Midwesterner, I'm inclined to make a 1/32 Midwwest pan chassis like the old ones done by Dobson, Hagenbuch, and all.  There are a couple of questions I had before making a selection(s)

 

1.  Is there a deadline for receiving entries yet?

 

2.  On the midwest 1/32 pan cars of the era, the body was often mounted loosely.  They were called "rattlers" if memory serves correctly.  No separate  

     shaker pans, just a loose body.  Is this acceptable on 1/32?

 

3  How large will the tracks be?  In '63 my first two bodies were 1/32 lotus 23 and a Lotus 25 carved in balsa.  The didn't survive when we went to a

    bigger track.  I worry  about durability if we get onto bigger tracks - especially for the full-bodied cars.  Smaller tracks also solve the motor issue.  No

    point in using a monster motor with a 16' main straight.  A few years back the Can-Am proxy ran about ten races and the cars survived surprisingly

    well because of the small tracks.  Mine lost most of the detail bits  before it got back from New Zealand, but that's about it.

 

 Time to get back to the 3-views.

 

Terry


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Terry Hreno
Where's the 3-view? I need to carve another body!

#65 dc-65x

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Posted 13 January 2013 - 04:48 PM

Hi Terry,

 

 

"Shaker bodies" are period "Korrect" and I show how I'm doing mine in post #114 here:

 

Got Wood

 

If you haven't already, you should also check out what's going on for the proxy event in Europe on SlotForum:

 

Balsa Proxy


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#66 Jairus

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Posted 13 January 2013 - 06:34 PM

Terry,

 

Tracks will all be flat tracks that are rather tight regardless of length.  The one currently being constructed a few hundred feet from my home is slated to be race #2 here in America.  Pics of the track as of yesterday afternoon:

IMG_0648-vi.jpg

 

Length is 125' but check out this tight corner.

IMG_0653-vi.jpg

 

Also... there are plans to install some nice in-field scale stuff.  Paul Painter the builder said it will be up and fully operational by April. And THAT is the plan for the first race at Pelican Park Speedway.  But, no due date yet on mailing.  

 

Before you choose your vehicle type or a race number.  Here is a copy of the current list of entrants and registered vehicle numbers currently being updated by my good friend Jaak Beentjes.

1/ Jairus Watson #01---1/24--- Maserati 250F driven by Juan Manuel Fangio 
2/ Tony, Bigtone #02---1/32--- Briggs Cunningham Cadillac Le Monstre
3/ Old Fred #04---1/24--- 1960 Indy 500 Offy/Watson roadster
4/ Bruce Wayne #06---1/24--- Mercedes Benz W196
5/ Nicolas Cavoleau #11--- 1/24--- 2.5 liter BRM
6/ Phil Smith #12---1/32--- TBD
7/ Mike Newns #13---1/32--- Aston Martin DB1 DHC (Le Mans 1949)
8/ Rick Thigpen #14---1/24--- Sports car
9/ Régis Baron #22---1/24--- Connaught Type B
10/ Bob Suzuki #28---1/24--- Musitelli 1953 Ferrari 166 Abarth Spyder
11/ Jon Grainger #32---1/32--- Maserati 250F, Jean Behra, 1956 Italian Grand Prix.
12/ Volfoni Boys #33---1/24---- Lotus 11, Mc Queen Grey
13/ Brad Korando #34---?--- Lancia-Ferrari D50, Fangio, 1956 Argentina GP
14/ Brad Korando #36---?--- Lancia D24, Fangio, 1954 Panamericana
15/ Volfoni Boys #38---1/24--- Lotus 11, Lotus Green
16/ Bob Suzuki #54---1/32--- Ferrari Super Monza
17/ Phil Smith #70---1/24--- TBD
18/ Jaak Beentjes #77---1/32--- 1960 BRM P48
19/ Little Fred #78---1/24--- Lotus 15 sports car
20/ Joel, Merkit The Grof #110 or #524 ---1/24--- TBD
21/ Joel, Merkit The Grof #???---1/24--- Alfa Romeo 512
22/ GerardL #558---1:24--- OSCA MT41500 chassis 1163 Mille Miglia 1955 
23/ Jon Grainger #722---?--- Mercedes 300SLR, Mille Miglia 1955, Moss and Jenks car
24/ GerardL #729---1:32--- Jaguar XK120 JWK 650, Mille Miglia 1950
25/ Mike Zimmerman #16---1/32--- Lance Reventlow Scarab, 1957


Jairus H Watson - Artist
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#67 Régis4446

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Posted 24 January 2013 - 06:13 AM

Connaught driver

 

p1070774-1--3b59900.jpg

 

p1070775-1--3b5990d.jpg


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#68 Jairus

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Posted 24 January 2013 - 11:20 AM

The look is very scale and appropriate Régis.  

Have you sealed the wood with something?


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#69 Régis4446

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Posted 24 January 2013 - 04:38 PM

Thank

 

Not yet.


I'll put cyanoacrylate glue, then sanded, primer and then paint


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#70 Jairus

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Posted 24 January 2013 - 07:09 PM

New pics of one of our proxy tracks at Edgewater Raceway.
These are less than 2 hours old as of today, January 24, 2013.
IMG_0686-vi.jpg

 

IMG_0687-vi.jpg

 

Arrows denote green areas for spectators, berm and parking.

The bump out in the Esse's are to be pit row.
Total lane length is 135foot. 
Braid depth is near flush at .010.

IMG_0688-vi.jpg

 

Paul's work is first rate! 

:)


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Jairus H Watson - Artist
Need something painted, soldered, carved, or killed? - jairuswtsn@aol.com

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Check out some of the cool stuff on my Fotki!


#71 Bruce Wayne

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Posted 25 January 2013 - 01:38 AM

Looks like a good GP/Sports Car course Jairus, excellent work going on there. Those long straights combined with the tight turns and esses should make it a real challenge for both car set-up and the drivers.

 

The Merc is almost ready for the paint shop. I'm using a two part polyester body filler, aka "Bondo", although a modern fine grade professional version as a general filler and to close the wood's grain. I'm using that because it doesn't tend to shrink as much as lacquer based body putty's or scratch fillers, so hoping it will result in a quicker end to a smoother finish. I also strongly feel it is more period correct than using Cyanoacrylate or "Super Glue", little of which was used on this model.

 

There were a total of eight separate pieces of basswood added on to the basic wooden silhouette in order to better model all the bumps and bulges the Mercedes team added to their bodies back then. I guess that is where the styling cues for the 60's muscle cars began! In addition to that were several chunks of wood added to the insides to compensate for blunders and oversite on my part :redface:

 

There were also seven pieces of brass used on the model's external bodywork.

The exit for duct the long intake bulge on the hood was made of sliced 1/4" tubing flattened out and shaped to fit. Brass was used here instead of thinned wood so it would have a "scale" thickness appearance when viewed from the back, yet be strong enough to handle the abuse of motorization.

Next was to fabricate the two cooling exhaust ducts on the rear deck from flat .016 sheet, then they were both recessed into the wood and faired in with filler.

The two flat front wheel "fairings" (?) started as .016" x 1/2" brass sheet, and are held up on each side by a bent up and soldered .025" music wire supports.

Last were the two driver controlled "crotch cooler" cowl intake duct doors. These were simple to make out of 1/4" brass channel, only having to cut them to length and file them to a thinned and slightly convex shape. They will be left loose and not glued on until the final painting stages in order to retain their seams.

 

The exhaust pipes have been rough formed from 1/8" Pastistrut ABS tubing. It was easy to bend them into shape, but the material has little memory. To solidify them I jigged and clamped them up in their proper shape and filled them with JB Weld Epoxy filler. After it set, they are strong and have retained the proper shape. They should now only need final trimming and finish :)

 

Slotblog pics of W196 012.JPG

 

Slotblog pics of W196 013.JPG

 

Slotblog pics of W196 022.JPG

 

Slotblog pics of W196 027.JPG

 

Next up is to install and trim the quirky rear view mirrors, make a grille, work on the interior, the driver, the dash, etc etc etc!

 

Dang this project is a lot of work!!! When is the first race? :D


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#72 Jairus

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Posted 25 January 2013 - 09:48 AM

Bruce, First race was set for April I believe. But that is not set in stone and can be moved to make sure everyone who wants to enter gets their car finished.  I for one am stymied due to the need to get other projects out of the way first.  Hoping to get back to my chassis this weekend.
I've been keeping careful track of progress of all entries and they run the full range including a few who have just started carving.

But the bulk here, on Slot Forum and on FOLM (The French guys) are pretty much in the same spot you are sir.

 

As is always the case with these proxies, some will drop out, at least one or two will be dark horse(s) we didn't even know about and the majority of the entries will arrive on time.  As Nesta says: "It's all good"!  :)

 

P.S. The stance on that car is OFF THE HOOK Perfect!  It is going to look sooo damn cool watching these machines run around the track. 


Jairus H Watson - Artist
Need something painted, soldered, carved, or killed? - jairuswtsn@aol.com

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Check out some of the cool stuff on my Fotki!


#73 Jaak

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Posted 27 January 2013 - 06:11 PM

Great stuff guys  :good:

 

Regis what are you using to make those aluminium parts?

 

p.s I live now in Boege near Annemasse 74 region....



#74 Jaak

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Posted 27 January 2013 - 06:13 PM

Ok so after a lot of talking, I am going to have to walk the walk.

I am jumping of the high diving board into the deep end.... and I am not wearing any flotation devices huh.gif 


Phase 1, Balsa pieces

 

GEDC0135.jpg

 

Phase 2, cutting them at a oversize length.

 

GEDC0137-1.jpg

 

Phase 3, play with that big bottle of glue.

 

GEDC0139-1.jpg

 

more to follow... :ph34r:


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#75 Rhino

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Posted 27 January 2013 - 11:12 PM

Here's my rough carved Cunningham C4RK.  The photo isn't as good as what most of you guys are posting, but it will hopefully give you an idea.  I'm a little worried about keeping the roof attached through a series of races.  The actual car had a roof fuel filler, so that might give some good support.

 

I gave a lot of thought to doing a formula car to keep more of the body parts tucked in between the wheels.  The temptation to do an old Midwest  pan car was just too hard to resist.

 

The motor will be a Pittman DC196.  My very first scratchbuilt car was a Lotus 23 with a DC196.  There was a temptation to do that one again, but I couldn't find a 3-view.

 

If my count is correct, the car has eighty louvers on it.  Anyone have any suggestions on how to do those?

 

Terry

Attached Images

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Terry Hreno
Where's the 3-view? I need to carve another body!

#76 Jairus

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Posted 28 January 2013 - 12:36 AM

Louvers seem to be the bane of most of the builders in this race. Good luck Terry, because what you have done so far is fantastic!


Jairus H Watson - Artist
Need something painted, soldered, carved, or killed? - jairuswtsn@aol.com

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Check out some of the cool stuff on my Fotki!


#77 endbelldrive

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Posted 28 January 2013 - 02:12 AM

The Cunningham C4RK is my absolute favorite subject for that vintage Midwest treatment.  

 

You can check out model train forums or buy sheets of resin louvers from Archer Transfers. :secret:

 

http://www.archertra...om/AR88086.html


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#78 endbelldrive

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Posted 28 January 2013 - 02:50 AM

Making wood louvers from a Rod & Custom Models article Rick Thigpen post over hear:  http://slotblog.net/...-wood/?p=443121

 

GotWood-0006.jpg


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#79 Régis4446

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Posted 28 January 2013 - 08:29 AM

:good:  Terry, because it is very difficult to achieve a closed body.


Must use electric collars.

 

look here

 

http://folm.xooit.co...48.htm?start=60

 

collier-rilsan-co...-mm-1-1--3b75704.jpg


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Régis Baron

#80 Régis4446

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Posted 28 January 2013 - 08:46 AM

Great stuff guys  :good:

 

Regis what are you using to make those aluminium parts?

 

p.s I live now in Boege near Annemasse 74 region....

 

I use many small files to my metal, and sometimes my 2 power tools

 

 

  la-lime-de-mecani...26564-1--3b75798.jpg

 

mf-70-micro-frais...27110-1--3b757a3.jpg

 

img34-1--3b757be.gif


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#81 Jaak

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Posted 28 January 2013 - 05:59 PM

Thanks Régis,

 

Your metal and woodwork is outstanding.

I have all except the lathe which I hope to own one day.


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#82 Jaak

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Posted 29 January 2013 - 05:28 PM

Can anybody point me in the right direction for 1/24 Triumph TR4 wheels and tires?


And what gears/gear ratio would be good for a Pittman DC65x?

 

Thanks in advance!



#83 dc-65x

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Posted 29 January 2013 - 07:12 PM

Hi Jaak,

 

I've been using a 4:1 gear ratio on my DC65-X builds. Not saying that's is the "best" ratio but the cars seem to have good speed, brakes and don't run hot.

 

For TR4 wheels in 1/24 scale maybe some Russkit set screw repops with "Cooper" wheel inserts. They look a bit like the great Minilite wheels of the period:

 

DSCN0225.jpg

 

DSCN0227.jpg

 

 


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#84 Bruce Wayne

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Posted 29 January 2013 - 10:41 PM

Can anybody point me in the right direction for 1/24 Triumph TR4 wheels and tires?


And what gears/gear ratio would be good for a Pittman DC65x?

 

Thanks in advance!

Jak, you do mean to say TR3, correct? 

 

BWA has some nice wire wheel inserts that would be period appropriate and fit a wide variety of vintage and reproduction wheels. If their online catalog does not show any in 1/24th just e-mail them. That's what I did and got a quick response. Since they were so reasonably priced I ordered all three sizes they offer to have some options...

http://www.bwaslotcars.com/

 

I think the tire of choice would be something from Ortmann, but sorry I can't refer you any part numbers or such. I'm working with Professor Motor by e-mail and phone here in the States to find me the appropriate size. Perhaps you have a European source that can find some for you too.

 

I'm going on popular opinion here that about 4:1 is a good start for a gear ratio. I may go little higher as my rear tires will be quite large at over 1.175". Only trials and testing would tell for sure.


Bruce W. Frye

#85 Jaak

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Posted 30 January 2013 - 07:57 AM

Oops my bad Bruce you are right i meant TR3....not sure where the 4 came from  :unknw: Will pm Al to see if he has anything.    

 

Rick they look great, Do you know where to source these wheels?



#86 dc-65x

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Posted 30 January 2013 - 12:07 PM

Hi Jaak,

 

Some links for you are below. If you're going to run a TR3 how about a wire wheel insert?


Repro Russkit Wheels by Electric Dreams

 

Tom Anderson's Vintage Slot Cars Resin Wheel Inserts


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#87 Jaak

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Posted 31 January 2013 - 04:58 AM

Hey Rick,

 

 

Thank you very much for your help.

Much appreciated :victory:


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#88 Jairus

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Posted 31 January 2013 - 11:44 AM

Okay... after much thought and effort, I've designed drivers station plates for the new "Edgewater Raceway".  They were proofed yesterday, but I made a couple tiny changes and before printing... want to have the track builder approve of them one more time.

Driverplates_finalproof-vi.jpg

As for track scenery and a wall mural.  I came up with the idea of Monaco after watching the Movie "Grand Prix" again last night.  Think I can paint a pretty nice replica of the city on the coast to be digitally printed on vinyl and mounted on PVC sheet. That allows the mural to travel with the track... should the store move to a larger venue.

monaco1969nomadartanddesign-vi.jpg

 

Not painting the modern big city of today... but what existed of the harbor and tile roof buildings circa 1969.

At least, that's the plan.


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#89 Jairus

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Posted 31 January 2013 - 02:17 PM

Okay Balsa Carvers!
Time for an Information Post.
This time: Driver figures in 1/25th.
 
Yup, if you build a car, you got to have a driver in the front seat!
And.. the figure should look the part correctly. Right? Right!
 
I pulled a few out of my collection, but I know there are lots more out there so feel free to post yours as most of us are getting to the point were we need to start thinking about a good figure.
 
The first is a replica of a typical 60's driver carved and cast in Resin by: Immense Miniatures. 
IMG_0700-vi.jpg
Molded in Resin.
Pros: Goggles have great eye details which after painting can be filled with resin to create very realistic goggle glass.  Driver suit very period correct and face shape very close to that of Juan Manuel Fangio in my opinion.
Cons: No legs or lower torso. Helmet is a bit too modern but can be modified. Arms need some adjustment.
3 pieces
 
The second is a driver figure out of the Fujimi Drivers kit. Out of production at this time, but there are still kits available at some hobby sources and ebay.
IMG_0699-vi.jpg
Molded in injection molded styrene.
Pros: Driver suit seems to be mid 60's but comes with three versions of heads. I put this 50's helmeted head on and could make a great driver with careful painting.
Cons: Full figure might need some cutting down to fit over a motor. Driver suit a bit too modern.
5 pieces
 
The third is from E.J.s Hobbies and molded in resin.
IMG_0698-vi.jpg
Pros: Figure seems a bit small, but good details.
Cons: Details are a bit modern, which include full helmet and shoulder belts. My version had a lot of air bubbles in the casting, but mileage may vary. 
1 piece
 
The fourth is cast by Jimmy Flintstone Studios. (Lots of cool stuff on HIS web site that will distract) I think the original molding came from a vintage Revell Sprint Car kit so the casting is correct and cool. I don't know exact part number as he tossed it into one of my recent orders so send him an email and ask for the Revell Sprint car driver figure.
IMG_0697-vi.jpg
Molded in Resin.
Pros: Correct helmet and drivers suit.  Proportions look good. Price was cheap!
Cons: A lot of flash and clean up is necessary. Big hands?
1 piece
 
The fifth is from Cox and found in the Lotus 40 kit and alone as part number #13025. 
IMG_0696-vi.jpg
Molded in injection molded styrene.
Pros: Still very available and good starting place. Very light weight.
Cons: Head too big for the body. Helmet not correct and drivers suit too modern... but details shallow so good paint can hide a lot of faults.
3 pieces
 

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#90 Régis4446

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Posted 02 February 2013 - 02:29 PM



 

nearing the end










 


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#91 Jaak

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Posted 02 February 2013 - 06:00 PM

When I asked about gear ratio I mentioned the wrong motor,
I will be using a Pittman 196B..which may give me gear sourcing issues huh.gif
 
Probably still need to go for 1:4 so was thinking 7/28

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#92 John Secchi

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Posted 03 February 2013 - 06:18 AM

Jaak

Not sure what 7 tooth pinion you intend using but they normally have a bore size of 2mm which will not fit the 196B armature shaft which is 0.092 [2.35mm].

You could try and bore out the pinion but not sure it has enough material to allow this, another option is the grind the shaft down to size which is quite easy to do and would allow you to use a wider range of gears. 

Old brass bevel gear sets are still easy to find though, MRRC and others did 4:1 which will fit straight on, try Phil Smith in the UK.

Good luck

[oneofwos]



#93 Jaak

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Posted 03 February 2013 - 06:40 AM

Thanks John,

 

I had been Googling and read about the uncommon width of the armature shaft.

 

Will have a look at what Phil has to say.

 

Thanks for thinking along with me.



#94 Jairus

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Posted 03 February 2013 - 10:40 AM

Jaak, I think 4/1 is what I am using.  Remember tho... the tires will be larger diameter than you are used to with other races. So you can go even higher than that if you need.
And as long as the car has realistic clearance, there is no need to be concerned with larger gears.  So you can run an 8 or 9t pinion with no clearance problems.
 
 
If you need some gears... you have but to ask. :)

P.S. you must go with vintage gears with the 196B due to the narrow width of the axle bearings. But you must have already figured that one out.

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#95 Régis4446

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Posted 03 February 2013 - 02:54 PM

The driver is ready

 






 

 

 

 

 


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#96 Régis4446

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Posted 08 February 2013 - 05:16 AM



 

Body before the varnishes, green is a little too dark.




 

The carburetor assembly, removable, like the other parts, for him to freshen up
after the journey if necessary




 

 



 


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#97 slotbaker

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Posted 08 February 2013 - 06:24 AM

Wow... :victory:

Beautiful job Régis.


Steve King


#98 Jaak

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Posted 08 February 2013 - 08:16 AM

Fantastic Regis  :clapping:


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#99 Jairus

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Posted 08 February 2013 - 09:55 AM

Wow, paint already?  
I need to get back to the bench!

 

Beautiful work Régis, just beautiful.


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#100 dc-65x

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Posted 08 February 2013 - 12:31 PM

That's SO nice Régis!!!


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