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#76 Jairus

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Posted 28 January 2013 - 12:36 AM

Louvers seem to be the bane of most of the builders in this race. Good luck Terry, because what you have done so far is fantastic!


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#77 endbelldrive

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Posted 28 January 2013 - 02:12 AM

The Cunningham C4RK is my absolute favorite subject for that vintage Midwest treatment.  

 

You can check out model train forums or buy sheets of resin louvers from Archer Transfers. :secret:

 

http://www.archertra...om/AR88086.html


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#78 endbelldrive

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Posted 28 January 2013 - 02:50 AM

Making wood louvers from a Rod & Custom Models article Rick Thigpen post over hear:  http://slotblog.net/...-wood/?p=443121

 

GotWood-0006.jpg


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#79 Regis4446

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Posted 28 January 2013 - 08:29 AM

:good:  Terry, because it is very difficult to achieve a closed body.


Must use electric collars.

 

look here

 

http://folm.xooit.co...48.htm?start=60

 

collier-rilsan-co...-mm-1-1--3b75704.jpg


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#80 Regis4446

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Posted 28 January 2013 - 08:46 AM

Great stuff guys  :good:

 

Regis what are you using to make those aluminium parts?

 

p.s I live now in Boege near Annemasse 74 region....

 

I use many small files to my metal, and sometimes my 2 power tools

 

 

  la-lime-de-mecani...26564-1--3b75798.jpg

 

mf-70-micro-frais...27110-1--3b757a3.jpg

 

img34-1--3b757be.gif


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#81 Jaak

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Posted 28 January 2013 - 05:59 PM

Thanks Régis,

 

Your metal and woodwork is outstanding.

I have all except the lathe which I hope to own one day.


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#82 Jaak

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Posted 29 January 2013 - 05:28 PM

Can anybody point me in the right direction for 1/24 Triumph TR4 wheels and tires?


And what gears/gear ratio would be good for a Pittman DC65x?

 

Thanks in advance!



#83 dc-65x

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Posted 29 January 2013 - 07:12 PM

Hi Jaak,

 

I've been using a 4:1 gear ratio on my DC65-X builds. Not saying that's is the "best" ratio but the cars seem to have good speed, brakes and don't run hot.

 

For TR4 wheels in 1/24 scale maybe some Russkit set screw repops with "Cooper" wheel inserts. They look a bit like the great Minilite wheels of the period:

 

DSCN0225.jpg

 

DSCN0227.jpg

 

 


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#84 Bruce Wayne

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Posted 29 January 2013 - 10:41 PM

Can anybody point me in the right direction for 1/24 Triumph TR4 wheels and tires?


And what gears/gear ratio would be good for a Pittman DC65x?

 

Thanks in advance!

Jak, you do mean to say TR3, correct? 

 

BWA has some nice wire wheel inserts that would be period appropriate and fit a wide variety of vintage and reproduction wheels. If their online catalog does not show any in 1/24th just e-mail them. That's what I did and got a quick response. Since they were so reasonably priced I ordered all three sizes they offer to have some options...

http://www.bwaslotcars.com/

 

I think the tire of choice would be something from Ortmann, but sorry I can't refer you any part numbers or such. I'm working with Professor Motor by e-mail and phone here in the States to find me the appropriate size. Perhaps you have a European source that can find some for you too.

 

I'm going on popular opinion here that about 4:1 is a good start for a gear ratio. I may go little higher as my rear tires will be quite large at over 1.175". Only trials and testing would tell for sure.


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#85 Jaak

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Posted 30 January 2013 - 07:57 AM

Oops my bad Bruce you are right i meant TR3....not sure where the 4 came from  :unknw: Will pm Al to see if he has anything.    

 

Rick they look great, Do you know where to source these wheels?



#86 dc-65x

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Posted 30 January 2013 - 12:07 PM

Hi Jaak,

 

Some links for you are below. If you're going to run a TR3 how about a wire wheel insert?


Repro Russkit Wheels by Electric Dreams

 

Tom Anderson's Vintage Slot Cars Resin Wheel Inserts


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#87 Jaak

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Posted 31 January 2013 - 04:58 AM

Hey Rick,

 

 

Thank you very much for your help.

Much appreciated :victory:


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#88 Jairus

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Posted 31 January 2013 - 11:44 AM

Okay... after much thought and effort, I've designed drivers station plates for the new "Edgewater Raceway".  They were proofed yesterday, but I made a couple tiny changes and before printing... want to have the track builder approve of them one more time.

Driverplates_finalproof-vi.jpg

As for track scenery and a wall mural.  I came up with the idea of Monaco after watching the Movie "Grand Prix" again last night.  Think I can paint a pretty nice replica of the city on the coast to be digitally printed on vinyl and mounted on PVC sheet. That allows the mural to travel with the track... should the store move to a larger venue.

monaco1969nomadartanddesign-vi.jpg

 

Not painting the modern big city of today... but what existed of the harbor and tile roof buildings circa 1969.

At least, that's the plan.


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#89 Jairus

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Posted 31 January 2013 - 02:17 PM

Okay Balsa Carvers!
Time for an Information Post.
This time: Driver figures in 1/25th.
 
Yup, if you build a car, you got to have a driver in the front seat!
And.. the figure should look the part correctly. Right? Right!
 
I pulled a few out of my collection, but I know there are lots more out there so feel free to post yours as most of us are getting to the point were we need to start thinking about a good figure.
 
The first is a replica of a typical 60's driver carved and cast in Resin by: Immense Miniatures. 
IMG_0700-vi.jpg
Molded in Resin.
Pros: Goggles have great eye details which after painting can be filled with resin to create very realistic goggle glass.  Driver suit very period correct and face shape very close to that of Juan Manuel Fangio in my opinion.
Cons: No legs or lower torso. Helmet is a bit too modern but can be modified. Arms need some adjustment.
3 pieces
 
The second is a driver figure out of the Fujimi Drivers kit. Out of production at this time, but there are still kits available at some hobby sources and ebay.
IMG_0699-vi.jpg
Molded in injection molded styrene.
Pros: Driver suit seems to be mid 60's but comes with three versions of heads. I put this 50's helmeted head on and could make a great driver with careful painting.
Cons: Full figure might need some cutting down to fit over a motor. Driver suit a bit too modern.
5 pieces
 
The third is from E.J.s Hobbies and molded in resin.
IMG_0698-vi.jpg
Pros: Figure seems a bit small, but good details.
Cons: Details are a bit modern, which include full helmet and shoulder belts. My version had a lot of air bubbles in the casting, but mileage may vary. 
1 piece
 
The fourth is cast by Jimmy Flintstone Studios. (Lots of cool stuff on HIS web site that will distract) I think the original molding came from a vintage Revell Sprint Car kit so the casting is correct and cool. I don't know exact part number as he tossed it into one of my recent orders so send him an email and ask for the Revell Sprint car driver figure.
IMG_0697-vi.jpg
Molded in Resin.
Pros: Correct helmet and drivers suit.  Proportions look good. Price was cheap!
Cons: A lot of flash and clean up is necessary. Big hands?
1 piece
 
The fifth is from Cox and found in the Lotus 40 kit and alone as part number #13025. 
IMG_0696-vi.jpg
Molded in injection molded styrene.
Pros: Still very available and good starting place. Very light weight.
Cons: Head too big for the body. Helmet not correct and drivers suit too modern... but details shallow so good paint can hide a lot of faults.
3 pieces
 

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#90 Regis4446

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Posted 02 February 2013 - 02:29 PM



 

nearing the end










 


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#91 Jaak

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Posted 02 February 2013 - 06:00 PM

When I asked about gear ratio I mentioned the wrong motor,
I will be using a Pittman 196B..which may give me gear sourcing issues huh.gif
 
Probably still need to go for 1:4 so was thinking 7/28

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#92 John Secchi

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Posted 03 February 2013 - 06:18 AM

Jaak

Not sure what 7 tooth pinion you intend using but they normally have a bore size of 2mm which will not fit the 196B armature shaft which is 0.092 [2.35mm].

You could try and bore out the pinion but not sure it has enough material to allow this, another option is the grind the shaft down to size which is quite easy to do and would allow you to use a wider range of gears. 

Old brass bevel gear sets are still easy to find though, MRRC and others did 4:1 which will fit straight on, try Phil Smith in the UK.

Good luck

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#93 Jaak

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Posted 03 February 2013 - 06:40 AM

Thanks John,

 

I had been Googling and read about the uncommon width of the armature shaft.

 

Will have a look at what Phil has to say.

 

Thanks for thinking along with me.



#94 Jairus

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Posted 03 February 2013 - 10:40 AM

Jaak, I think 4/1 is what I am using.  Remember tho... the tires will be larger diameter than you are used to with other races. So you can go even higher than that if you need.
And as long as the car has realistic clearance, there is no need to be concerned with larger gears.  So you can run an 8 or 9t pinion with no clearance problems.
 
 
If you need some gears... you have but to ask. :)

P.S. you must go with vintage gears with the 196B due to the narrow width of the axle bearings. But you must have already figured that one out.

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#95 Regis4446

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Posted 03 February 2013 - 02:54 PM

The driver is ready

 






 

 

 

 

 


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#96 Regis4446

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Posted 08 February 2013 - 05:16 AM



 

Body before the varnishes, green is a little too dark.




 

The carburetor assembly, removable, like the other parts, for him to freshen up
after the journey if necessary




 

 



 


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#97 slotbaker

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Posted 08 February 2013 - 06:24 AM

Wow... :victory:

Beautiful job Régis.


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#98 Jaak

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Posted 08 February 2013 - 08:16 AM

Fantastic Regis  :clapping:


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#99 Jairus

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Posted 08 February 2013 - 09:55 AM

Wow, paint already?  
I need to get back to the bench!

 

Beautiful work Régis, just beautiful.


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#100 dc-65x

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Posted 08 February 2013 - 12:31 PM

That's SO nice Régis!!!


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