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Good Wood Revival Proxy - work in progress


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#51 Regis4446

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Posted 23 December 2012 - 12:48 PM

Chassis, very simple, it is 9 g, because the engine is heavy and not very powerful.

 

p1070696-1--3a9581c.jpg

 

p1070695-1--3a957d6.jpg

 


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#52 Jairus

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Posted 23 December 2012 - 03:34 PM

Nice metal work Régis!  What motor are you using?


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#53 Regis4446

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Posted 23 December 2012 - 04:19 PM

I use Pittman RP 77

 

303784rp77-1--3a974ce.jpg


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#54 dc-65x

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Posted 23 December 2012 - 04:46 PM

Nice Régis, I love the louvers in the chassis.


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#55 Jairus

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Posted 23 December 2012 - 05:01 PM

That's a good one!  

If you get a chance you should "zap" or "recharge" that magnet.


Jairus H Watson - Artist
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#56 don.siegel

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Posted 23 December 2012 - 07:55 PM

Or try to find a Pittman DC77-6V....

 

Don



#57 Regis4446

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Posted 24 December 2012 - 09:38 AM

Thank you friends.
I think the engine will stay home, I'll just watch the weight.

Merry Christmas to all

 

 

p1070700-1--3a9b38f.jpg

 

p1070702-1--3a9b3a4.jpg

 

p1070701-1--3a9b3b8.jpg[/

 

 

 

 


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#58 Regis4446

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Posted 27 December 2012 - 06:56 AM

Today, stering wheel, alu and wood.

 
p1070730-1--3aa9124.jpg

 

p1070731-1--3aa9134.jpg

 

 p1070732-1--3aa9144.jpg

 

 p1070733-1--3aa914e.jpg


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#59 Bruce Wayne

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Posted 08 January 2013 - 02:09 AM

Once I had a basic body roughed out, it was time to start thinking about the chassis.

With limited experience, I had to use a great deal of imagination in order to interpret the rules and to make one similar to what "might" have built during the 60's. I didn't have much time to research or find any suitable references to go off of, so it was built just as it could have been in 1965 with no modern over the counter parts. Everything was scratchbuilt at home from K&S brass and wire using tools commonly available then. At this stage it still needs some small details such as drop arm stop, axle tube trimming, final polish etc...

 

Goodwood Revival 2013 Edition 002.JPG

 

Goodwood Revival 2013 Edition 004.JPG

 

Goodwood Revival 2013 Edition 008.JPG

 

The body was put on hold about a month ago after it was roughed into it's basic shape (I think it's best to have it fully mounted and fitted on the chassis before going on to finishing the bodywork and paint). With the main chassis work done and the body mounts located, it was time to go back to the body and work on some of the numerous external details. I initially thought the carving was going to be the hard part, but the Basswood is easy to work with and has proven to be a pleasure to carve.

It still has a lot of work to go, so please excuse the smudges and knicks. Initial work has been to place a few bulges, open some holes, start on the grille opening, and begin fabrication of some exhaust pipes...

 

Goodwood Revival 2013 Edition 026.JPG

 

Goodwood Revival 2013 Edition 039.JPG

 

Goodwood Revival 2013 Edition 050.JPG

 


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#60 manitouguy

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Posted 08 January 2013 - 02:37 AM

wow, more wonderful work!!

thanks for keeping us updated

great stuff

 

Ron


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#61 dc-65x

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Posted 08 January 2013 - 11:46 AM

MAN! Those are some GREAT cars :good:


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#62 Rhino

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Posted 12 January 2013 - 04:00 AM

It's been a while since I logged in, and am stunned by what you guys are doing!  Now I have to find  out about this Good Wood Proxy.  I have a 1/32 Cisitalia Coupe that was started a couple years ago.  GORGEOUS WORK, GUYS!!!!!!


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Terry Hreno
Where's the 3-view? I need to carve another body!

#63 Regis4446

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Posted 12 January 2013 - 11:41 AM

It's nice to see other beautiful cars.

 

for Connaught, I made exhaust and front suspension.

 

 

p1070742-1--3b12cf7.jpg

 

p1070741-1--3b12d0f.jpg

 

p1070743-1--3b12d34.jpg

 


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#64 Rhino

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Posted 13 January 2013 - 03:44 PM

Jairus,

 

I've read both threads and am anxious to get started.  I have my geezer goggles and dust mask ready to go.  Being a Midwesterner, I'm inclined to make a 1/32 Midwwest pan chassis like the old ones done by Dobson, Hagenbuch, and all.  There are a couple of questions I had before making a selection(s)

 

1.  Is there a deadline for receiving entries yet?

 

2.  On the midwest 1/32 pan cars of the era, the body was often mounted loosely.  They were called "rattlers" if memory serves correctly.  No separate  

     shaker pans, just a loose body.  Is this acceptable on 1/32?

 

3  How large will the tracks be?  In '63 my first two bodies were 1/32 lotus 23 and a Lotus 25 carved in balsa.  The didn't survive when we went to a

    bigger track.  I worry  about durability if we get onto bigger tracks - especially for the full-bodied cars.  Smaller tracks also solve the motor issue.  No

    point in using a monster motor with a 16' main straight.  A few years back the Can-Am proxy ran about ten races and the cars survived surprisingly

    well because of the small tracks.  Mine lost most of the detail bits  before it got back from New Zealand, but that's about it.

 

 Time to get back to the 3-views.

 

Terry


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Terry Hreno
Where's the 3-view? I need to carve another body!

#65 dc-65x

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Posted 13 January 2013 - 04:48 PM

Hi Terry,

 

 

"Shaker bodies" are period "Korrect" and I show how I'm doing mine in post #114 here:

 

Got Wood

 

If you haven't already, you should also check out what's going on for the proxy event in Europe on SlotForum:

 

Balsa Proxy


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#66 Jairus

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Posted 13 January 2013 - 06:34 PM

Terry,

 

Tracks will all be flat tracks that are rather tight regardless of length.  The one currently being constructed a few hundred feet from my home is slated to be race #2 here in America.  Pics of the track as of yesterday afternoon:

IMG_0648-vi.jpg

 

Length is 125' but check out this tight corner.

IMG_0653-vi.jpg

 

Also... there are plans to install some nice in-field scale stuff.  Paul Painter the builder said it will be up and fully operational by April. And THAT is the plan for the first race at Pelican Park Speedway.  But, no due date yet on mailing.  

 

Before you choose your vehicle type or a race number.  Here is a copy of the current list of entrants and registered vehicle numbers currently being updated by my good friend Jaak Beentjes.

1/ Jairus Watson #01---1/24--- Maserati 250F driven by Juan Manuel Fangio 
2/ Tony, Bigtone #02---1/32--- Briggs Cunningham Cadillac Le Monstre
3/ Old Fred #04---1/24--- 1960 Indy 500 Offy/Watson roadster
4/ Bruce Wayne #06---1/24--- Mercedes Benz W196
5/ Nicolas Cavoleau #11--- 1/24--- 2.5 liter BRM
6/ Phil Smith #12---1/32--- TBD
7/ Mike Newns #13---1/32--- Aston Martin DB1 DHC (Le Mans 1949)
8/ Rick Thigpen #14---1/24--- Sports car
9/ Régis Baron #22---1/24--- Connaught Type B
10/ Bob Suzuki #28---1/24--- Musitelli 1953 Ferrari 166 Abarth Spyder
11/ Jon Grainger #32---1/32--- Maserati 250F, Jean Behra, 1956 Italian Grand Prix.
12/ Volfoni Boys #33---1/24---- Lotus 11, Mc Queen Grey
13/ Brad Korando #34---?--- Lancia-Ferrari D50, Fangio, 1956 Argentina GP
14/ Brad Korando #36---?--- Lancia D24, Fangio, 1954 Panamericana
15/ Volfoni Boys #38---1/24--- Lotus 11, Lotus Green
16/ Bob Suzuki #54---1/32--- Ferrari Super Monza
17/ Phil Smith #70---1/24--- TBD
18/ Jaak Beentjes #77---1/32--- 1960 BRM P48
19/ Little Fred #78---1/24--- Lotus 15 sports car
20/ Joel, Merkit The Grof #110 or #524 ---1/24--- TBD
21/ Joel, Merkit The Grof #???---1/24--- Alfa Romeo 512
22/ GerardL #558---1:24--- OSCA MT41500 chassis 1163 Mille Miglia 1955 
23/ Jon Grainger #722---?--- Mercedes 300SLR, Mille Miglia 1955, Moss and Jenks car
24/ GerardL #729---1:32--- Jaguar XK120 JWK 650, Mille Miglia 1950
25/ Mike Zimmerman #16---1/32--- Lance Reventlow Scarab, 1957


Jairus H Watson - Artist
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#67 Regis4446

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Posted 24 January 2013 - 06:13 AM

Connaught driver

 

p1070774-1--3b59900.jpg

 

p1070775-1--3b5990d.jpg


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#68 Jairus

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Posted 24 January 2013 - 11:20 AM

The look is very scale and appropriate Régis.  

Have you sealed the wood with something?


Jairus H Watson - Artist
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#69 Regis4446

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Posted 24 January 2013 - 04:38 PM

Thank

 

Not yet.


I'll put cyanoacrylate glue, then sanded, primer and then paint


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#70 Jairus

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Posted 24 January 2013 - 07:09 PM

New pics of one of our proxy tracks at Edgewater Raceway.
These are less than 2 hours old as of today, January 24, 2013.
IMG_0686-vi.jpg

 

IMG_0687-vi.jpg

 

Arrows denote green areas for spectators, berm and parking.

The bump out in the Esse's are to be pit row.
Total lane length is 135foot. 
Braid depth is near flush at .010.

IMG_0688-vi.jpg

 

Paul's work is first rate! 

:)


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Jairus H Watson - Artist
Need something painted, soldered, carved, or killed? - jairuswtsn@aol.com

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Check out some of the cool stuff on my Fotki!


#71 Bruce Wayne

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Posted 25 January 2013 - 01:38 AM

Looks like a good GP/Sports Car course Jairus, excellent work going on there. Those long straights combined with the tight turns and esses should make it a real challenge for both car set-up and the drivers.

 

The Merc is almost ready for the paint shop. I'm using a two part polyester body filler, aka "Bondo", although a modern fine grade professional version as a general filler and to close the wood's grain. I'm using that because it doesn't tend to shrink as much as lacquer based body putty's or scratch fillers, so hoping it will result in a quicker end to a smoother finish. I also strongly feel it is more period correct than using Cyanoacrylate or "Super Glue", little of which was used on this model.

 

There were a total of eight separate pieces of basswood added on to the basic wooden silhouette in order to better model all the bumps and bulges the Mercedes team added to their bodies back then. I guess that is where the styling cues for the 60's muscle cars began! In addition to that were several chunks of wood added to the insides to compensate for blunders and oversite on my part :redface:

 

There were also seven pieces of brass used on the model's external bodywork.

The exit for duct the long intake bulge on the hood was made of sliced 1/4" tubing flattened out and shaped to fit. Brass was used here instead of thinned wood so it would have a "scale" thickness appearance when viewed from the back, yet be strong enough to handle the abuse of motorization.

Next was to fabricate the two cooling exhaust ducts on the rear deck from flat .016 sheet, then they were both recessed into the wood and faired in with filler.

The two flat front wheel "fairings" (?) started as .016" x 1/2" brass sheet, and are held up on each side by a bent up and soldered .025" music wire supports.

Last were the two driver controlled "crotch cooler" cowl intake duct doors. These were simple to make out of 1/4" brass channel, only having to cut them to length and file them to a thinned and slightly convex shape. They will be left loose and not glued on until the final painting stages in order to retain their seams.

 

The exhaust pipes have been rough formed from 1/8" Pastistrut ABS tubing. It was easy to bend them into shape, but the material has little memory. To solidify them I jigged and clamped them up in their proper shape and filled them with JB Weld Epoxy filler. After it set, they are strong and have retained the proper shape. They should now only need final trimming and finish :)

 

Slotblog pics of W196 012.JPG

 

Slotblog pics of W196 013.JPG

 

Slotblog pics of W196 022.JPG

 

Slotblog pics of W196 027.JPG

 

Next up is to install and trim the quirky rear view mirrors, make a grille, work on the interior, the driver, the dash, etc etc etc!

 

Dang this project is a lot of work!!! When is the first race? :D


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#72 Jairus

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Posted 25 January 2013 - 09:48 AM

Bruce, First race was set for April I believe. But that is not set in stone and can be moved to make sure everyone who wants to enter gets their car finished.  I for one am stymied due to the need to get other projects out of the way first.  Hoping to get back to my chassis this weekend.
I've been keeping careful track of progress of all entries and they run the full range including a few who have just started carving.

But the bulk here, on Slot Forum and on FOLM (The French guys) are pretty much in the same spot you are sir.

 

As is always the case with these proxies, some will drop out, at least one or two will be dark horse(s) we didn't even know about and the majority of the entries will arrive on time.  As Nesta says: "It's all good"!  :)

 

P.S. The stance on that car is OFF THE HOOK Perfect!  It is going to look sooo damn cool watching these machines run around the track. 


Jairus H Watson - Artist
Need something painted, soldered, carved, or killed? - jairuswtsn@aol.com

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Check out some of the cool stuff on my Fotki!


#73 Jaak

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Posted 27 January 2013 - 06:11 PM

Great stuff guys  :good:

 

Regis what are you using to make those aluminium parts?

 

p.s I live now in Boege near Annemasse 74 region....



#74 Jaak

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Posted 27 January 2013 - 06:13 PM

Ok so after a lot of talking, I am going to have to walk the walk.

I am jumping of the high diving board into the deep end.... and I am not wearing any flotation devices huh.gif 


Phase 1, Balsa pieces

 

GEDC0135.jpg

 

Phase 2, cutting them at a oversize length.

 

GEDC0137-1.jpg

 

Phase 3, play with that big bottle of glue.

 

GEDC0139-1.jpg

 

more to follow... :ph34r:


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#75 Rhino

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Posted 27 January 2013 - 11:12 PM

Here's my rough carved Cunningham C4RK.  The photo isn't as good as what most of you guys are posting, but it will hopefully give you an idea.  I'm a little worried about keeping the roof attached through a series of races.  The actual car had a roof fuel filler, so that might give some good support.

 

I gave a lot of thought to doing a formula car to keep more of the body parts tucked in between the wheels.  The temptation to do an old Midwest  pan car was just too hard to resist.

 

The motor will be a Pittman DC196.  My very first scratchbuilt car was a Lotus 23 with a DC196.  There was a temptation to do that one again, but I couldn't find a 3-view.

 

If my count is correct, the car has eighty louvers on it.  Anyone have any suggestions on how to do those?

 

Terry

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Terry Hreno
Where's the 3-view? I need to carve another body!





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