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#101 endbelldrive

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Posted 08 February 2013 - 05:48 PM

All the cars are really great and have so much character!  


Bob Suzuki




#102 Régis4446

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Posted 10 February 2013 - 12:21 PM



 

thank you friends



 

One of the highlights of a scratch, there is more to assemble the car.




 


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#103 slotbaker

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Posted 10 February 2013 - 04:59 PM

Wow... again.

 

If it goes as good as she looks, she's on the podium for sure.

:)


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#104 dc-65x

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Posted 10 February 2013 - 05:59 PM

Great stuff Régis!

What are you using for wheel inserts? They look really neat :)


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#105 Régis4446

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Posted 11 February 2013 - 05:38 AM

The inserts are made with wheels Merit, but I did not nut.

 


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#106 Bruce Wayne

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Posted 11 February 2013 - 11:21 AM

Excellent result on the project Regis, thanks for sharing your techniques and progress. Good luck in the Race!
 
The MB is progressing slowly but steadily. Using a body jig makes marking out the body lines and features an easy task. This is a tip I learned from scale Ship modelers.  An old pencil lead was taped to a block of wood at the appropriate height and a belt line was marked level all around...
 
W196 Body Jig 007.JPG
 
Since the jig is square and plumb, it can also be used as an aide in keeping all the features square and in line...
 
W196 Body Jig 008.JPG
 
I almost cut the unused back portion of the jig off, but glad I didn't now. The extra space was put to good use as a platform for an exhaust pipe jig...
 
W196 Body Jig 010.JPG
 
The body has gotten two coats of primer since these photos were taken, so it shouldn't be too long before it's in the booth for the color coat :D


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#107 Régis4446

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Posted 12 February 2013 - 12:39 PM

:good: thank you for sharing with us the method of work, it promises to be a beautiful car.


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#108 Régis4446

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Posted 13 February 2013 - 02:56 AM

Here are the latest photos, there is a mount frame.

 

 

 

 

 


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Régis Baron

#109 dc-65x

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Posted 13 February 2013 - 11:49 AM

Magnificent! Truly a museum piece.


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#110 Jairus

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Posted 13 February 2013 - 01:51 PM

Do you think we should tell him he needs a motor? 


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#111 dc-65x

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Posted 13 February 2013 - 02:59 PM

No, please don't. That way my car will be faster than at least one of the racers :)


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#112 n9949y

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Posted 13 February 2013 - 06:29 PM

I'm astonished at the depth and breadth of such marvelous
talent displayed here in turning out such splendid intricately modeled bodies.
You fellows are creating model cars that in may cases have never been modeled
before. I can only look on with envy.

 

However, I’ve heard the term “3d printing” more and more.
For a 70’s something person had little appreciation of what that term
meant.  Now I know.  Am wondering that soon 3D or additive
manufacturing process will allow others to produce any model of any car ever
existed.

 

Have any of you contemplated using this new manufacturing
process when it becomes readily available? I would think folk like Jarius could
produce incredibly wonderful models, of anything- and slot cars. Wow!





 


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#113 don.siegel

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Posted 14 February 2013 - 05:40 AM

Already been done - but for now the quality of the plastic used in 3D printing doesn't really make for an acceptable finish on a body. This will eventually be possible I assume, and it may not take that long!

 

Here in France, PSK is using this process for its 1/43 chassis for instance, and a number of small artisanal producers are also going this route. Not sure about any of the big model manufacturers, but it's already used in industry, and not just for prototyping, as in the beginning.

 

A friend here who is an industrial designer (and carves some of the PSK masters) has access to good 3D printing machines. When I mentioned I was having trouble finding old Monogram guides, he just printed out a tree of them for me: cost, about €3 apiece - but the trouble with this system is that the price doesn't go down with volume, at least not like injected plastic items.

 

Don



#114 Régis4446

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Posted 16 February 2013 - 04:18 AM

No, please don't. That way my car will be faster than at least one of the racers :)

I think so.


I try my car club on Ninco track, we do not have wooden track.


I think it is nice, but not very fast.


Its weight is 148 g, impossible to below.


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#115 Régis4446

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Posted 16 February 2013 - 10:20 AM



 

latest pictures under sun shy








 

 







 

 



 


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#116 Jairus

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Posted 16 February 2013 - 10:49 AM

I get it now. The chassis is held in the car by the rear axle and one screw!  Brilliant!

 

Looks great Régis!  Now that you are done, I suggest you take some time and figure out how to get that motor magnet "recharged".  Even if you have to remove the magnet and the side plates like so:

IMG_0738-vi.jpg

If you cannot take the motor apart then send the entire motor, ALL OF IT, to someone who can do magnet zapping. Or recharging.

We have a thread about that subject here.

 

Your entry is beautiful.  I would like to see it preform as well as it looks.  :)


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#117 Régis4446

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Posted 23 February 2013 - 08:43 AM

Thank you Jairus


The motor will remain like that, here in France, nobody does zapping.

Question:


on the track, what is the voltage and empérage


Régis Baron

#118 Jairus

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Posted 23 February 2013 - 11:23 AM

Voltage is set on the local track at 13v.  No idea of amperage because it's not wired yet.
Todd knows about the Pelican Park Raceway track. Maybe he can answer your question when he checks in.
Or... when I visit the track I will ask.

 

As for the two tracks in Europe... I will find out.


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#119 Bruce Wayne

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Posted 16 March 2013 - 07:44 PM

I'm hoping someone here can help me in selecting a larger Ortmann or any other Vintage style tire for my W196 entry. My first try was a pair of Ortmann ORT50A rear and ORT50 front Vintage Revell F1 tires from Professor Motor. Their overall diameter once mounted is perfect at about 1.140", but they are too narrow and look out of proportion to the rest of the car...

 

MB + Scratchbuilding tools 007.JPG

 

Their cross section is about .200" front and .300" rear. I thinking ~.300" front and ~.400" rear would be optimal. I have toyed with the idea of getting another set and sectioning them together to make them wider, but that prospect seems difficult at best and would involve some risk. I don't want to ruin four pair of tires!

 

The project calls for a 1/24 scale tire with treads, so that eliminates all the slicks.

For other Vintage treaded tires in the Ortmann line, I am considering...

1-ORT39D and ORT39E tires made for Vintage Series 1 Monogram cars

2-ORT45A and ORT49B tires made for Vintage K&B cars.

 

The problem is I don't have any Vintage Monogram or K&B cars as a tire size reference. In addition, the online Retail vendors of Ortmann tires in the US don't specify what the tire dimensions are. Contacting both their Customer Service departments time and again has proved to be more of an aggravation than help.

 

If someone here has a pair of either of the above Ortmann tire series on hand could you simply measure their cross section and report back?

Either that or the dimensions and suitability of any other viable Vintage tires options would be helpful too,

Thanks


Bruce W. Frye

#120 dc-65x

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Posted 16 March 2013 - 09:44 PM

Hi Bruce,

 

I'm not sure what wheels you are using but Ortmann has Russkit Dunlop rear tires that might help.

 

13D-Pittman-065.jpg

 

You may be able to stretch them over the wheels you are using and get the width and diameter you need.


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#121 Bruce Wayne

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Posted 18 March 2013 - 10:18 AM

Rick,

 

I saw the Russkit tires in the online catalogs, but passed them over because they look pretty big in the small thumbnail pictures provided.I do like that they are marked Dunlop though, and would probably work as well as either of my first choices.

Do you know the Ortmannn part number for them?

ED has a pair listed as ORT26, is that correct?

PM uses their own numbering system, and can't find a listing for those Russkit rear tires per say. Do you know which part number they sell them by?

 

Thanks


Bruce W. Frye

#122 dc-65x

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Posted 18 March 2013 - 11:16 AM

Hi Bruce,

 

I couldn't find them on PM site with their goofy descriptions and part numbers. I bought mine from Electric Dreams and the package is marked with the number 26.

 

Rick


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#123 gascarnut

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Posted 18 March 2013 - 11:25 AM

Bruce,

 

Remember that the Ortmann #26 are for the Russkit wheel, which I think is much smaller in diameter than what you are using. You may have to open up the center hole in the tire to make it fit.


Dennis Samson
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#124 dc-65x

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Posted 18 March 2013 - 11:38 AM

Bruce,

 

What wheel are you using? If I have one I can try the Russkit tire on it for you.


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#125 Régis4446

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Posted 18 March 2013 - 12:14 PM

look here, if it helps

 

 

http://www.rsslotrac...rationOther.htm


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#126 Bruce Wayne

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Posted 19 March 2013 - 10:44 AM

Rick,

The rear wheels shown in the pic are 0.670" dia where the tire mounts and about 0.400" wide. I choose them because they expanded the Vintage F1 tires to the desired diameter of ~1.140". If needed, I may be able to turn them down or source a smaller wheel. I also have a .600" wheel available to use if it fits better.

And yeah, PM's descriptions of the tires and applications are poor. Four e-mails and two phone calls to Andy and he can't help me out either :dash2:

 

Dennis,

I suspected they may be smaller, but as said you can't tell that by the tiny thumbnails most vendors post in their catalogs. That's another reason I thought the Monogram or K&B tires might be a better choice as they simply "look" larger. Either way I am open to opening them up :D

 

Regis,

Thanks for the link. They do show the dimensions for most of their tires, so that is a helpful resource as a cross reference.

 

Thanks for all your help guys, to be continued...


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#127 dc-65x

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Posted 19 March 2013 - 11:25 AM

Hi Bruce,

 

I will see if I can mount a russkit tire on a wheel similar to yours and give you the specs on it today.

 

Is the .400 dimension the wheel width inside the flanges or the outside the flange overall width?

 

Rick


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#128 dc-65x

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Posted 19 March 2013 - 04:49 PM

Bruce,
 
The Russkit tires are designed to fit on a wheel that's about .100" smaller in diameter than your wheel and only .340" wide. I have K&B wheels that are similar in size to yours and I was afraid if I tried to stretch the Ortmann Russkit tire over it I would break the tire.
 
I'm running the K&B Goodyear Stock Car Special repops on my car. They are made by Paul's Slot Car Shop in Canada. I get them on eBay. My wheels are .400" wide overall and the tire mounting surface diameter is .650". They are a little narrow for the wheel but I just filled in the gap at the back of the wheel with the same adhesive I glued the tire on with (Permatex Flowable Silicone Windshield & Glass Sealer):

 

CarNumber4-075.jpg

 

CarNumber4-016.jpg

 

My overall diameter after I ground the tires just enough to true them up is 1.135"

 

I'd rather be running a Dunlop tire too but...............

 


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#129 Bruce Wayne

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Posted 19 March 2013 - 10:22 PM

Rick,

This is just the kind of feedback that I needed, thanks so much for your time and efforts.

 

Yep, I had thought the Russkit tires might be too small. Phillipe told me months ago when I showed him the project that I would have trouble finding a big enough tire.  E.D. sells re-pop Russkit wheels that I think go with those tires, which they show as .560" where the tire mounts, so that was a vague clue too.

 

Anyway, the rear wheels I mentioned above are .400" wide overall, .340" between the rim beads, and again .670" diameter where the tire mounts. Since they are nearly the same as yours +.020", the K&B tire could be a good choice, and hopefully turn out to be a tiny bit bigger overall too.

 

Time for more research...


Bruce W. Frye

#130 dc-65x

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Posted 20 March 2013 - 12:51 PM

Hi Bruce,

 

PdL is right about the big Benz-O needing big wheels to look "Korrect". But, it's hard to find the parts we need and sometimes all we can do is the best we can. The Russkit wheels are pretty small in diameter for older cars and with the Russkit tire the overall diameter is only about 1.080".

 

The K&B's should work good for your wheels. You might want to try the urethane tires made by Paul's Slot Car Shop available on Ebay. He has them in different hardness too. Here's the link to his K&B's:

 

Paul's Slot Car Shop

 

 


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#131 Bruce Wayne

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Posted 22 March 2013 - 01:08 AM

Rick,

 

Thanks for the link! That was too easy.

I've promptly ordered some up because at that price they are certainly worth a shot :).

 

This is about where the Big-M project is at and there is still a long punch list to check off, so I'm in no rush to set a deadline.

While waiting for the tires, I've put on what is hopefully the last coat of white to seal the primer and wood...

 

244.JPG


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#132 dc-65x

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Posted 22 March 2013 - 10:05 AM

Good Grief Bruce!   :shok:   Is that your carved wood body? :unknw:   What amazing detail....it looks like an injection molded model kit body!!!! :good:


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#133 Régis4446

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Posted 06 April 2013 - 06:03 AM

Here are photos of the 1955 BRM my very young friend Nicolas who made the wooden body frame and rims

 

imgp0943-3a7509a.jpg

 

imgp0944-3a750d5.jpg

 

imgp0949-3a750e5.jpg

 

imgp1080-3aab438.jpg

 

imgp1083-3aab499.jpg

 

imgp1085-3aab4a4.jpg

 

url=http://folm.xooit.co...ab0fea.jpg.htm]imgp1110-3ab0fea.jpg[/url]

 

imgp1114-3ab0ff2.jpg

 

imgp1118-3ab1010.jpg

 

imgp1126-3ab1025.jpg

 

imgp1187-3b3b637.jpg

 

imgp1189-3b3b650.jpg[/quote]

 

 

imgp1168-3b3a377.jpg

 

imgp1172-3b3a38a.jpg

 

 

imgp1177-3b3a39d.jpg

 

imgp1271-3b8edce.jpg

 

imgp1263-3b8edec.jpg

 

imgp1266-3b8edf5.jpg[/quote]

 

 

 

last night in the first test on the track Ninco our club.

 

p1070986-1--3d3736e.jpg

 

p1070990-1--3d3738c.jpg

 

p1070992-1--3d373a4.jpg

 

p1070993-1--3d373bd.jpg


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#134 munter

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Posted 06 April 2013 - 02:04 PM

Beautiful and beautiful


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#135 Bruce Wayne

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Posted 08 April 2013 - 10:22 AM

Very nice Regis, Nicolas should be proud of his work :good:

 

The starting grid for this race is shaping up to be quite a spectacle.


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#136 Bruce Wayne

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Posted 02 June 2013 - 07:54 PM

At this stage, the body has received two coats of Tamiya Spray Lacquer in Metallic Silver, decals from Patto's Place followed by two coats of clear lacquer...

 

MB 196 005.JPG

MB 196 004.JPG

MB 196 006.JPG

 

 

 

After decanting the silver from the can and spraying it through an airbrush, the surface dried nice and smooth, so it was practical to apply the decals directly onto the model without having to first apply a clear coat.

I must say the decals from Patto's place worked very well and I'm pleased with the results.  Although quite thick they are very opaque and stood up well to my rough handling. By using a combination of Micro Set and Micro Sol decal setting solutions I was able to stretch them over the egg shaped rear bodywork with a little fussing and finesse.

 

The instructions that came with the decals and all advice from other modelers cautioned me to only to use Future Clear Acrylic over them, but I prefer to use old fashioned clear lacquer over decals for it's hardness and durability.  To make sure it was going to be compatible, I first test sprayed a wet coat of clear lacquer over some extra decals from the same sheet. The results were good as they were not dissolved or adversely effected by the lacquer, so two good coats were applied over the decals to finish model's topcoat.


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#137 Jairus

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Posted 02 June 2013 - 09:10 PM

Bruce,

That is looking beautiful!  Decals are great and the shape screams Mercedes.  

Wish I could say that things are going well for me.
Been a hugely disappointing last few weeks financially, spiritually, socially and humanistically.  I've lost money, time and my complete faith in humans around me. Unfortunately that tends to affect my creativity and so... the most I've been able to accomplish is getting Juan Manuel Fangio positioned in the cockpit and the wood rimmed steering wheel placed in his able hands.
IMG_1163-vi.jpg

Still need to install a steering wheel hub hub of course,.... and a few other details to add before twisting open the paint jars. But I'm getting there.
Might be a fun thing to do tonight.  
Ciao
 


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Jairus H Watson - Artist
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#138 SlotStox#53

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Posted 03 June 2013 - 05:33 PM

Sorry you've had a less than perfect couple of weeks Jairus, if its any consolation your Maserati is looking out of this world :D

Cant wait to see it wearing its top coat!!

#139 dc-65x

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Posted 03 June 2013 - 07:00 PM

I agree Paul.

 

Jairus your car is looking incredible. I have some projects that I'd love your help with and hopefully they would help restore your faith in people because you WOULD get paid for your hard......work as long as: 

 

"Do you accept... Cash? Cha-ching"   :D

 

do-you-accept-dot-dot-dot-cash-cha-chi_c

 

Seriously, I do have some stalled projects.


Rick Thigpen
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#140 Jairus

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Posted 03 June 2013 - 09:08 PM

Always willing to help you Rick!  :)


Jairus H Watson - Artist
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#141 dc-65x

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Posted 03 June 2013 - 09:46 PM

Thanks Jairus,

 

I have projects that I really like but they need the bodies and interiors to finish them. You do it all but I just love to do the mechanical things. I tend to finish the mechanical part and then the project stops...... :(

 

When I'm recovered from my eminent medical adventure, maybe we can put our heads together to finish them up and maybe, start some new ones! :)

 

Rick


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#142 Jaak

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Posted 05 June 2013 - 04:25 PM

Just thought I would let you all know I am (still) working on mine.

This one is V2.5   ..V1 the dog killed  V2 was way to big V2.5 is properly sized just needs detailing the curves and headlights of the TR3.

 

I bought a 1:24 plastic kit of the Triumph TR3 and then discovered my V2 was way of scale,

will see if I can use some of the plastic bits like the grille for my model.


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#143 Bruce Wayne

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Posted 11 June 2013 - 10:04 AM

Ready for Tech inspection...

W196 finished 002.JPG

W196 finished 003.JPG

W196 finished 006.JPG

 

Notice anything funny with the motor Rick? :D

W196f 014.JPG


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Bruce W. Frye

#144 dc-65x

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Posted 11 June 2013 - 10:15 AM

WOW!

 

Absolutely fabulous Bruce! :clapping:

 

The motor looks like a Pittman 196B with a Mabuchi 16D style axle bracket attached. Now you can run whatever crown gear you like :)

 

Did you make the wheel inserts from Strombecker plastic wheels?

 

K&B repop rear tires on what wheels?

 

Nice car! :good:


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#145 Jairus

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Posted 11 June 2013 - 11:30 AM

Most excellent Bruce... and, you got your's done before me. (drat)

Passes tech with me.  Now get some of the best "Hollywood" shots together so I can post them on various forums for the Concours when the time comes.
 

I like that you cut the legs off that 196B motor. I see someone was paying attention to my built....  :)

 

Who made the driver figure?


Jairus H Watson - Artist
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#146 garyvmachines

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Posted 11 June 2013 - 04:03 PM

 X- elent  Work Bat Man :clapping:

That is Beautiful Work Bruce !!!!!  Good luck in the race !!!!!

From  all in St Lou...........

 

GAV


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#147 slotbaker

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Posted 11 June 2013 - 05:49 PM

Wow... chaps. That is going to be on spectacular starting grid with all these cars lined up.

:clapping:


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#148 Bruce Wayne

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Posted 11 June 2013 - 06:49 PM

Rick,

Yep, it's a 196B with the axle mount arms cut off ala Jairus's tip, but look a little closer (please excuse my crummy photos) at the motor frame/magnet poles. Dennis Sampson told me an old Pittman hop-up trick was to take an old motor, cut off the sides and double them up on your good motor for more field strength at the armature. Dennis also did me a great favor by static balancing the arm and reassembling the motor. The motor bracket itself was scratched out of 0.032" brass sheet.

 

The wire wheel inserts are from Andy at BWA in 1/24 scale. I ordered all three sizes available, and used a variety of them to get the right fit. As for the wheels, I have no idea who made them. I had a front set of almost perfect ID, and they featured a nice step on the rim lip too. Found a suitable OD rear set, but had to turn the ID larger to fit the inserts and also had to turn the step on the rim lip. All machining was done by hand on a tire truer using an Exacto knife with a #11 blade as the cutting tool.

The rear tires are the K&B Goodyear repops from Paul's that you linked me to, fronts are Ortmann Vintage F1.

 

Jairus,

I beat my head for a week wondering what kind of gears I could find/use on a 196B, then thankfully you showed us your frame and let the cat out of the bag. Cut the legs off square, drilled and taped two 2-56 mounting holes and boom, gears are no longer an issue :)

 

Driver's abdomen is the Vintage figure from the Fujimi kit, widened ~1/8" by sectioning in two .060 styrene strips. His arms and head are from the Monogram Chaparral re-issue. Cut off the helmet to reposition the visor and carved a little more here and there to resemble something from the 50's. I used Bryan Warmack's suggested method to improve the look of the goggles by digging out the eye sockets with a Dremel, painting some dots and filling the void with clear epoxy to simulate the lens.

 

Gary,

Thanks for the compliment and well wishes. Hope to see you and your new home track soon, still pondering and putting off the move back East.


Bruce W. Frye

#149 Jairus

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Posted 11 June 2013 - 06:58 PM

You mean Al Penrose at BWA.
Great info Bruce. 

Looks like the head of the driver is also Fujimi?


Jairus H Watson - Artist
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Check out some of the cool stuff on my Fotki!


#150 Bruce Wayne

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Posted 11 June 2013 - 07:23 PM

Jairus,

 

Not sure of BWA's current ownership/status, but all of my dealings were with a chap named Andy. Either way ordering was smooth sailing and I highly recommend their products.

 

The driver's head/helmet started as the Monogram part, but was much modified to correct his visor (which pointed up too far), the full helmet was carved off at the bottom to better resemble the older open sided style, and a thin strip of stretched sprue was added for the goggle strap.

 

For pics I have some fantastic photos of it on track at BPR that Keith Tanaka took, but he sent them via e-mail to me in a compressed file, so I'll have those up as soon as I figure out how to un-zip them.


Bruce W. Frye





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