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"Rods and Rails" discussion and car show


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#401 Gator Bob

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Posted 01 October 2014 - 12:52 AM

:laugh2: If it don't go chrome it :D

Will have to look for some junk dc85 & RAM motors, even just the lams & end plates for an unlimited project :D Every motor I've got is already lined up for a regular vintage class build.

Will you be tuning the Valiant & re entering it next time Bob?

 

But it went "gah ga gh Ghost" :shok:  :wizard:  :sarcastic:

 

Heck yeah I'm running it ... but ..... not it in the wheelstander class this year :wink2:  :laugh2:


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#402 SlotStox#53

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Posted 01 October 2014 - 07:53 AM

:laugh2: did lift it's wheels rather easily!

Keeping the front on the track you could have some fast E.T's for next time :D

#403 hiline2

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Posted 01 October 2014 - 04:29 PM

I wasnt sure if to start a new topic or keep running on this one.

 

Discussion of allowing "protrack" style wheels and tires or other brands as long as they appear vintage is interesting. I see Protrack does offer wheels fitting 1/8' axles (for vintage rail style cars Like I just ran) but there are some good looking wheels but only in 3/32" axle sizes. SO,  one can sleeve down rear bearings or replace rear bearings for 3/32" axles. BBs  are available but they run 3/32" X 3/16" size and I was wondering on how to fit in the 1/4" holes for 1/8"X1/4" BB's. 

 

So please weigh in and share your ideas and thoughts on this idea ?

 

Lookin forward to next vintage padlock run with  more then 2 cars this time ! :good:  :sun_bespectacled:


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#404 SlotStox#53

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Posted 01 October 2014 - 05:37 PM

I think It's slick 7 that do reducer sleeves that have 1/4" o.d and 3/16" I.d so you can use 3/16 X 3/32 bb's and fit them in the 1/4 hole using the collar :good:


Out & about so sure someone can put a link or the part # ... If not will post it when I get back .

#405 Gator Bob

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Posted 01 October 2014 - 09:49 PM

Wow ...

I didn't think 3/32 was used in 67 drag cars but they are on page 94 of the Car Model - Tech Journal parts guide.

 

  • Ball bearings are allowed.
  • 3/32 axles are allowed

 

I think I know what you're saying but lost me on the question, :wacko2:  :D

STANDARD OFFICAL ANSWER "It's up to the builders to figure out how to get them in there ... :laugh2: "


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#406 Bill from NH

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Posted 02 October 2014 - 02:03 PM

The Slick 7 1/4 to 3/16 reducers are part #S7-142, $1.98 per pr.


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I intend to live forever!  So far, so good.  :laugh2:  :laugh2: 

#407 Gator Bob

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Posted 02 October 2014 - 04:06 PM

I wasnt sure if to start a new topic or keep running on this one.

 

Discussion of allowing "protrack" style wheels and tires or other brands as long as they appear vintage is interesting. I see Protrack does offer wheels fitting 1/8' axles (for vintage rail style cars Like I just ran) but there are some good looking wheels but only in 3/32" axle sizes. SO,  one can sleeve down rear bearings or replace rear bearings for 3/32" axles. BBs  are available but they run 3/32" X 3/16" size and I was wondering on how to fit in the 1/4" holes for 1/8"X1/4" BB's. 

 

So please weigh in and share your ideas and thoughts on this idea ?

 

Lookin forward to next vintage padlock run with  more then 2 cars this time ! :good:  :sun_bespectacled:

Good question.

 

I think It's slick 7 that do reducer sleeves that have 1/4" o.d and 3/16" I.d so you can use 3/16 X 3/32 bb's and fit them in the 1/4 hole using the collar :good:


Out & about so sure someone can put a link or the part # ... If not will post it when I get back .

Good answer.

 

The Slick 7 1/4 to 3/16 reducers are part #S7-142, $1.98 per pr.

Good call.


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#408 SlotStox#53

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Posted 02 October 2014 - 06:41 PM

The Slick 7 1/4 to 3/16 reducers are part #S7-142, $1.98 per pr.

Thanks Bill :good:

 

Things got a bit crazy & totally forgot to post it ..... :dash2: :wacko2: 

 

The 1/4 to 3/16 reducers work great on BB's for Padlock motors too.... Used them to fit a 3/32 shaft RAM arm in the motor for the Bug :)



#409 Gator Bob

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Posted 02 October 2014 - 07:06 PM

Hey Bill,   Are going to join the fun and send a car to :sun_bespectacled: Florida this time? :clapping:


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#410 Bill from NH

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Posted 02 October 2014 - 07:54 PM

Nope. The only open frame motor I own is a Pittman DC-196B. I have a few other things on my construction list.


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I intend to live forever!  So far, so good.  :laugh2:  :laugh2: 

#411 Gator Bob

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Posted 02 October 2014 - 10:25 PM

Bummer.... I was hoping you could.

If you need a motor what would you like to build up?


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#412 Gator Bob

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Posted 06 October 2014 - 02:30 PM

News update:

 

We have a date for the 2nd Annual 'Rods and Rails' proxy.

 

18 May 2015

 

The rules, class breakdown and motor list will be posted in a separate 2nd Annual announcement.

 

There will be a sign-up sheet and owner/builders will state what classes they will be entering.


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#413 SlotStox#53

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Posted 06 October 2014 - 02:57 PM

Awesome! Time to get cracking on some builds then :D :laugh2:

#414 CoastalAngler1

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Posted 08 October 2014 - 01:23 PM

Can anyone help me identify this chassis?  Can u suggest a motor?  (I messed up the other chassis in post #351 - Mustang motor is a maybe fit)

 

look here.jpg


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#415 Gator Bob

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Posted 08 October 2014 - 01:36 PM

:unknw:  Don't know that one but it looks 'universal'.


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#416 SlotStox#53

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Posted 08 October 2014 - 01:53 PM

Have no clue on that one ,looks universal as Bob says :good:

The short front pieces almost look like from different adjustable chassis kits meant for regular can motors?

#417 don.siegel

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Posted 08 October 2014 - 04:39 PM

Bingo Paul! 

 

Just looked at my 1966 Auto World catalog (p 96), and there's a little photo of an MDC magwinder frame, exactly the same as the one shown above; no front extensions! I assume they made the same model out of brass. It says, "the design is such that you can adapt it to inline or sidewinder motors."

 

From the photo I can't see how the front axle was supposed to be mounted, but there's a fair amount of hardware with the frame. 

 

Don 

 

PS: from another photo it looks like it was designed for the 16D. 



#418 Gator Bob

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Posted 08 October 2014 - 07:45 PM

Good call on the MDC rails. :hi:

 

The kit probably included an in-line bracket, droparm and the threaded rods'n nuts. 

 

And ..... 'Instructions' ... :to_become_senile:


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#419 BillB

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Posted 08 October 2014 - 08:14 PM

Here is a smaller dragster set up with a similar type front extension, Pittman 65 is the perfect size for this one.

6 -1/4" wheel base. Unknown mfg.  

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Bill Bilancio

#420 SlotStox#53

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Posted 08 October 2014 - 08:18 PM

Hi Bill :)

Nice car, looks like it maybe a Kemtron chassis by the rear axle mounting brackets... nice idea of extending a normal car chassis :good:

#421 Gator Bob

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Posted 08 October 2014 - 09:51 PM

I have to get the rules completed.

 

Last call for the approved motor list that will be legal for the 'Rods and Rails' proxy.

 

Any missing?

 

Laminated

  • Giz Winder w/BB
  • Kemtron 503- X
  • Kemtron 503-8
  • Kemtron Bronco SR22
  • Kemtron Mustang SR21
  • Mini DV18D-8
  • Mini DV18E
  • Pittman DC65
  • Pittman DC65-6
  • Pittman DC-84
  • Pittman DC-85
  • Ram 857-6
  • Ram DC850
  • Russkitt  41
  • Strombecker Destroyer 8473

In-line less axle bracket.

  • AristoCraft R6
  • K&S MR 1 Super
  • Mini Auto DH15
  • Mini DH13A
  • Mini DH13M
  • Mini DH18
  • Pittman DC63M
  • Pittman DC70
  • Revell RP66
  • Revell RP77
  • Strombecker Hustler
  • Tradeship MX70
  • Tradeship MX77
  • Varney KM1

In-line w/ axle bracket

  • Aristocraft 18
  • Atlas AT206
  • Atlas AT208
  • Atlas AT306
  • Atlas AT406
  • AW Stingray
  • Mini DH13M ?
  • MRRC Super 3P
  • Pittman 196A
  • Pittman 196B
  • Ram DC711
  • Ram DC711 6volt
  • Strombecker Avenger 8387
  • Strombecker Scorcher 7  8389
  • Strombecker Scuttler 8379
  • Strombecker Super Charger 8528
  • Strombecker Super Scuttler
  • Tradeship MicroMotor MN30
  • Tyco 901
  • Tyco 902
  • VIP Club

Sidewinder

  • K&B Challanger 1502
  • K&B Super Challanger 1504
  • Mila Miglia Capolupo 501
  • Pittman DC 704, 705, 706
  • Ram DC 222
  • Ram DC XL500
  • Ram DC283
  • Ram DC426A
  • Strombecker Devastator 8474
  • Tyco 952

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#422 CoastalAngler1

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Posted 08 October 2014 - 10:01 PM

One question - which one is the fastest?


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#423 boxerdog

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Posted 08 October 2014 - 10:10 PM

I don't know...Bonners?? Or these GEM motors??? 

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#424 don.siegel

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Posted 09 October 2014 - 03:53 AM

Pittman DC9003 (boat motor, some used on early drag cars...)

 

Pittman9003.jpg

 

MPC Dyn-O-Charger

Motors-divers.jpg

 

Regent (Australia, probably made in Japan)

 

Regent515-R.jpg

 

Athearn Jet 500

 

AthearnJet500.jpg

 

Lindsay

 

lindsayboxmotors.jpg

 

Torquemaster

 

TorqueMaster1.jpg

 

In fact, any open-frame, or non-can period motor... 

 

Don 



#425 Gator Bob

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Posted 14 October 2014 - 04:42 AM

Thanks Guys .. cool motors. I have one of those Ahearn "Jet" 500 ... they forgot to put the 'Jet' in this one unless they meant 500 RPM ...LOL

Don what is the open frame motor on the bottom left of the circle (7 o'clock). I have one of those and it looks well designed.

 

OK................ So, here is the draft rule set. any comments, questions or concerns before I post them in an official thread.

 

Please - I need a volunteer to handle the owner sign-up / car class registration sheet duty.

 

 

 

2nd Annual “Rods” and “Rails” Vintage Drag Proxy

  • Race date is May 18, 2014
  • Registration closes April 15, 2015.
  • Heads up racing. It's about the cars.
  • Track voltage at 14.7.
  • Scale 1000 ft. trap -
  • Heavy glue shutdown
  • Track braid depth is .010 
  • All cars make passes both lanes
  • ALL Vintage running gear and gears.
  • Modern or Vintage Guide flag blade portion must be black or have foil reflective tape to prevent ‘No Time’ displayed or ‘can’t stage’ issues.
  • Rear wheels and/or tires can be modern or vintage. Any compound allowed. Builders can chose to mix and match wheels or put new rubber on vintage wheels. Minimum Dia. of 1”.
  • Front Wheels and tires must be 67 or before vintage. Min Dia. – 7/8. No Min. width, O rings allowed.
  • Front tires may not be more than 1/16th off the race surface at the starting line.
  • No weight rule.
  • 3.25 maximum width
  • 8 inch maximum overall length for “Rods”
  • 11 inch maximum overall length for “Rails”
  • Only laminated motors allowed, any mods - except no Neo or Cobalt magnets.
  • Any chassis design or materials, We can't put the Genie back in the bottle ... it's been tried.
  • No wheelie bars.
  • Bodies - Reproduction or vintage - any hard body model, vacuum pulled clear, Styrene, or hand craft made (wood, tin, alum, plastic, brass, etc.).
  • No modern Pro/Mod looking bodies regardless of year the concept was created from.
  • 1967 cut-off for components and OEM body style. 1955 to 1967 for Stock Class
  • Car Model Technical Journal of Model Car Racing Volume #1 * is the component timestamp guide.
  • $10.00 entry fee for the first car.  $7.50 for each car thereafter.
  • All shipping charges to and from the event and any requested return insurance/customs costs are on the racer.
  • Cars will be returned in original senders package. Please pack accordingly.
  • Box plaque will be packed with the entries for the return trip. 

 

Stock  

  • 1/24th and 1/25th scale model body (hardbody) only.
  • Any  1955 to 1967 car that had a total production minimum of 500.
  • Stock full street OEM trim only , no 3in1 kit type customizing.
  • OE wheelwell radius and fender lip must be maintained at 80%
  • Stock Laminated or Open-Frame motors .

“Rods”

  • Will combine cars with a total length of 8” or less:
  1. Sports and Modified Sports
  2. Roadster and Modified Roadster
  3. Gas
  4. Altered
  5. Competition Coupe
  • Stock or modified  Laminated or Open-Frame motors (No Neo or cobalt magnets)

“Rails”

  • Stock or modified  Laminated or Open-Frame motors (No Neo or cobalt magnets)
  • Total length = 8” Min and 11” Max.

Exhibition Classes

  • 'Unlimited' cars using Padlock or Open frame motors, neo magnets, Wheelie Bars, parachute, multi motors .... etc. Low E/T and High MPH Awards.

 

  • 'Wheelstander' cars can be Padlock, Open frame or Mabuchi 36D powered, wheeliebars allowed. Cars must be on the front wheels at the line and must be on two wheels the whole length and at the finish line. Low E/T. Wins.

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