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Total Performance - Baldwin Motion King Cobra


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#51 hiline2

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Posted 23 July 2014 - 04:29 PM

I hope more is coming on this post !! :shok:  :good:


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#52 dc-65x

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Posted 23 July 2014 - 04:49 PM

Hi Paul,

 

Once I finally get done with the R&C Proxy I've got to get my buns in gear on this car. It's going to the:

 

"NorCal V-town Rumble" in memory of Gene Husting - Drag proxy

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#53 Horsepower

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Posted 27 July 2014 - 11:25 PM

I am re-editing this post, as I thought there was some mention of Neo mags, but that was by another poster. So, I assume you remagged this motor with the big boy. Just wondering how the gauss came out? I have a boatload of these and now I also have the Trix Trax magnetizer and was wondering what to expect if I can get it done. :) That brass chassis of yours is JEWELERY!


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#54 SlotStox#53

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Posted 27 July 2014 - 11:32 PM

As far as I know Rick's RAM has the original magnet in it still :good:

Edit.... After reading your edit :laugh2:

From having a standard dc85 with 6 volt arm added & having it zapped the magnet reading increased by at least 100 maybe more will have to got check the archives :laugh2:

Edit again , just checked and the Pittman started out at 149 and after zapping it read 409 :good:

#55 dc-65x

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Posted 28 July 2014 - 11:16 AM

Hi guys,

 

Now this is just my humble opinion and to each his own.   :)   I'm a vintage nut so no neo-stuff for me.  :crazy:    My fun is seeing how the old stuff will run after some vintage style "blueprinting", not how it runs after being "improved" with modern parts........... "Your results may vary"  :laugh2: :dance3: :dance3: :victory:


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#56 Horsepower

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Posted 29 July 2014 - 01:54 AM

Paul- Thanks for the gauss info. That's quite an increase, although I would guess those magnets WOULD be pretty dead after 40 years. I remember reading some posts here a couple of years back about this stuff and I know that no two motors are alike. Mine will be for a small home track.


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#57 dc-65x

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Posted 18 August 2014 - 09:45 PM

I hope more is coming on this post !! :shok:  :good:

 

Thanks for the encouragement. It took some time but I'm finally moving forward.

 

Rodney made a pass with the Cobra at Eddie's when I was there for the R&C event and it seemed pretty quick. It lifted the nose up, lite the braid on fire and blew through the glue in the brake zone imbedding the car in the foam and crap-O-la at the end of the strip (the end of the strip will be protected for the vintage event, no worries for the entrants).

 

I beefed up the body mount posts a bit with aluminum sleeves:

 

KingCobra56.jpg

 

They were bonded in place with a thick application of JB Weld:

 

KingCobra53.jpg

 

Now the struggling began for me. I'm no "modeler" and my hat's off to those that are modelers. :hi:

For the interior, I cut the rear piece off the model kit and cut down the dash board a bit. They were glued onto a piece of .010" plastic sheet. A Revell driver and a Cox head will be used along with an aluminum rod roll bar:

 

KingCobra54.jpg

 

Then my real non-modeler fun began. :dash2:

 

The top..........it's comprised of multiple pieces with no real indexing features to help with putting them together. Once assembled, this menagerie of parts must fit on the bodies complex curves.

 

KingCobra55.jpg

 

It sure isn't perfect but at least it's finally done :laugh2:

 

KingCobra58.jpg

 

Hopefully I will be successful in painting this baby soon.........


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#58 SlotStox#53

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Posted 18 August 2014 - 11:15 PM

Look forward to seeing this baby finished Rick :good:

 

Keep thrashing , the Cobra doesn't seem far off now . Sure sounds quick enough if you can keep it from lifting /lighting the braids up !

 

Do you happen to know the mail in deadline for the Drag Proxy Rick? So I know how long I've got to try and race to get at least one of my entries ready by!



#59 dc-65x

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Posted 18 August 2014 - 11:29 PM

Hi Paul,

 

I should know the deadline but.......... :unknw:


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#60 SlotStox#53

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Posted 18 August 2014 - 11:36 PM

OK :good:

 

 

As for the roof of the Cobra , it came out great looking at it . Made plenty of kits that have bits like that, seemingly fitting together  :laugh2:

 

Good luck with the paint job !



#61 dc-65x

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Posted 27 August 2014 - 05:07 PM

 

Good luck with the paint job !

 

Thanks Paul, I could have used a bit more luck but it could have been worse too! :crazy:  The boo boos are a nice piece of dirt in the middle of the hood scoop   :wacko2:   and a large scratch in the trunk that I somehow didn't see when the body was in primer.  :dash2: I guess I just wasn't looking for anything on the trunk as I did nothing there but scuff up the plastic with 600 paper before priming. Oh well, it IS finally painted.

 

Rodney told me about the Canopy glue shown below to attach the roof on the body. It can be cleaned up with water and won't attack the paint. It's also gap filling and with the way the roof fit, or didn't fit, that was a lifesaver. The gaps really seemed to blend in when the stuff was dry:

 

KingCobra64.jpg

 

It should have been all smooth sailing. Next up was to install the fresh Revell-Monogram "King Cobra" decals. Nice, fresh decals from a quality company, what could be easier. :unknw:

 

 

:shok: YIKES!  :shok:

 

KingCobra60.jpg

 

That whitish crap-O-la is under the decals. I used Micro Scale Micro Sol setting solution in the hopes the decals would be OK when dry....big mistake. I should have peeled the damn things off before they set up.

 

In hind sight, it seemed like a film of the decal paper maybe came off with the decals? Whatever, these P.O.S. decals had to go. But how? That Micro Sol really locks the things in place.

 

With lots of time and Q-Tips, I was able to use the same Micro Sol to remove the two "King Cobra" decals from the side: 

 

KingCobra63.jpg

 

I wasn't so lucky with the rear fender "Cobra Snale" decals. They just wouldn't let go. I ended up using 1200 and 2400 paper to sand them off. Unfortunately I cut through the paint a bit but I think the new "Cobra Snake" decals will cover up the bare spots:

 

KingCobra59.jpg

 

Thank goodness Patto's Place has new decals.....and I know they work:

 

codradragonsnake24.jpg

 

The bad news is they won't get here from Australia before the Proxy event. I'll just have to send it off without decals or a nice clear coat finish...........

 

I really need a break from these hard body cars..... :laugh2:


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#62 SlotStox#53

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Posted 27 August 2014 - 05:58 PM

Rick, you just need to get back to soldering :good: :laugh2:

Sorry those decals messed up :shok:

#63 dc-65x

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Posted 27 August 2014 - 06:37 PM

 

Rick, you just need to get back to soldering........

 

Truer words have never been spoken! :laugh2:


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#64 Gator Bob

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Posted 27 August 2014 - 07:09 PM

Geez, that sucks about the decals.

 

We know how it feels to try and do it better every time  :D .... right to completion and ....opps.... :ireful3: "I just made it much worse"  :dash2:


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#65 idare2bdul

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Posted 28 August 2014 - 01:02 PM

Building hard bodies is fun! :dash2:

It does make me appreciate painting lexan from inside which I am far more used to.


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#66 dc-65x

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Posted 28 August 2014 - 08:47 PM

Ya, I'm burned out on these things Mike. I really like them when and if I get them finished OK but I need a break.... a good CLEAR body build.
 
Clear bodies don't have to be "blob bodies" either. A few "Russkit style" injection molded "embellishments" can really perk them up. This one is a personal favorite:
 
 

Lotus19Special178.jpg


Anywho, I'll get all the other goodies glued on the Cobra and send it off to the proxy. Meanwhile the decals and clear coat will have to wait.
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#67 SlotStox#53

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Posted 28 August 2014 - 08:53 PM

Funny you should choose this picture RIck... I absolutely LOVE :heart: that body/car :D :good:



#68 Champion 507

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Posted 29 August 2014 - 10:28 AM

Rick, have you ever tried Solvaset by Walthers as a decal setting solution? Walthers has been in the model train hobby for 80 years. They used to make model train decals from the 1950s - 1990s. They came up with Solvaset to get their decals to snuggle down and adhere to paint. Walthers' decals were thicker, so Solvaset is more aggressive than Micro Scale's because that. As far as I know, Solvaset is still available but I haven't checked lately.


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#69 dc-65x

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Posted 29 August 2014 - 10:49 AM

Looks like it's still available Doug. I'll give it a try.

 

But, I still wonder what was up with those Revell-Monogram decals. What was the milky film under the decals? It was almost like the decal paper came off in a film with the decal???


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#70 hiline2

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Posted 29 August 2014 - 02:49 PM

DC65, that is one great lookin care ! More shots/angles underneath please!!


Paul Bass

#71 dc-65x

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Posted 29 August 2014 - 03:22 PM

Thanks Paul,

 

Here's a link to the build:

 

Jerry Hansen's 1966 Lotus 19 Chevy

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#72 hiline2

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Posted 29 August 2014 - 04:50 PM

WOW ! Great link and build, thanks !


Paul Bass

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Posted 29 August 2014 - 10:32 PM

Years ago, I had a JoHan 1964 Petty Plymouth kit. When I went to put the decals on, I too got all that milky junk with mine. I was told it was the adhesive for the decal. Since you're using a solvent to make the decals stick, if they can hold up okay, maybe try getting the adhesive off the back of the decal under water before placing it on the model. :unknw:

 

Certainly Jairus would know. He's the model car expert.


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#74 dc-65x

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Posted 30 August 2014 - 10:29 AM

I'm no "modeler" but now I know what to look for Doug. For sure, I will get that crap-O-la off the back of the decal or not use them. :victory:


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#75 dc-65x

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Posted 30 August 2014 - 09:52 PM

SHIP IT!

 

Here is the almost finished car ready to ship to the proxy event:

 

1002800x600.jpg

 

1001800x600.jpg

 

Here's the view I hope she'll show to the competition..........or not :laugh2:

 

1004800x600.jpg

 

Onward to the land of clear bodies!!!!!!!!!! :dance3:


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