Jump to content




Photo

My sexy new JK C43 GTP car - step by step


137 replies to this topic

#51 JK Products

JK Products

    Rookie Keyboard Racer

  • Full Member
  • Pip
  • 24 posts
  • Joined: 12-December 15
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Algonquin, IL

Posted 06 December 2016 - 07:51 AM

Do they have separate categories for roller concours and body concours? You might need that, Pablo. 


  • Eddie Fleming likes this
Tim Homola
JK Products




#52 Pablo

Pablo

    Builder

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 11,654 posts
  • Joined: 20-February 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Johnson Bayou

Posted 06 December 2016 - 09:46 AM

That's way too much paint to qualify as a parking lot job.

 

:)  Concur, but I will say:

1. it's lacquer and all joking aside I want it to last at least three races.

2. the photo makes it look a lot denser than it actually is - in fact it is on the verge of not passing tech if there was a 'must be opaque" rule.

 

There is no official concours judging at The Dungeon, Tim, but photos are always taken of all the cars in all three classes.

Bud Greene, John Clow, and Bobby Page always show up with concours quality cars.

I have to say, during lane changes Bobby's cars on his pit caddy actually look like a real NASCAR pit.

 

For you "horsepower" freaks out there, just keep in mind I'm a "buy a motor, put it in the car" guy. No cherrypicking going on.

 

I do enjoy walking around during lunch within eavesdrop range of Red Valantine, muttering under my breath the words:

"Dyno... last night on the dyno... Bud's dyno... 110K RPM... real amp sucker... Norwegian squid bearing lube."  :crazy:


  • MSwiss, Tim Neja, boxerdog and 1 other like this
Paul Wolcott

#53 Fast Freddie

Fast Freddie

    On The Lead Lap

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 485 posts
  • Joined: 04-March 08

Posted 06 December 2016 - 11:44 AM

Pablo,

Are those body clips bent to be race ready?  Do you have a specific procedure you go through to make them "Pablo style" race ready.

I haven't always understood your method on how to bend the clips. Do you install the long leg in the front and then tape over the rear leg? 

I have a new C43 that I'm going to use the clips instead of pin tubing. I'm a proponent of pin tubes on just about everything and have used them since the early '90s but I thought for this chassis and one other one I have I'll give the clips a try.
Fred Younkin

#54 Tim Neja

Tim Neja

    Grand Champion Poster

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 5,299 posts
  • Joined: 11-June 07
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Orange County

Posted 06 December 2016 - 11:45 AM

Always good to see how much prep these little chassis can take in helping them perform better!! It's amazing how many things can be checked and realigned on such a simple stamped frame.  

Thanks for all the tips, Pablo, and for taking the time to post about them with pictures for us less adept folks!!

Merry Christmas to all you slot heads!! :)
She's real fine, my 409!!!

#55 Pablo

Pablo

    Builder

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 11,654 posts
  • Joined: 20-February 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Johnson Bayou

Posted 06 December 2016 - 04:55 PM

Yes, Fred, those are modified clips. The best way to learn it is watch the fast flexi racers.

I did post my method a while back, page #1, post 14, and page #2, post 62, here:
 
New Kurtis proxy car built by Pablo
 
After I punch the holes first time, I mount the body on the clips and note if there are any needing to go higher/lower or right/left.

Then I place squares of bulletproofing on the insides over the holes. Punch the final holes with the desired corrections.
Paul Wolcott

#56 Rob Voska

Rob Voska

    On The Lead Lap

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 399 posts
  • Joined: 12-April 08

Posted 06 December 2016 - 09:49 PM

"Norwegian squid bearing lube"

 

I'm gonna need at least a pint of that stuff!  :bad:


  • MSwiss likes this

#57 MSwiss

MSwiss

    Grand Champion Poster

  • Advertiser
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 16,399 posts
  • Joined: 16-April 06
  • Gender:Male

Posted 06 December 2016 - 09:52 PM

"Norwegian squid bearing lube"

 

I'm gunna need at least a pint of that stuff!  :bad:

 

Maybe two pints when you bunk with G. Norris. :laugh2:


Mike Swiss
IRRA® Components Committee Chairman
Five-time USRA National Champion (two G7, one G27, two G7 Senior)
Two-time G7 World Champion (1988, 1990)

Eight-time G7 King track single lap world record holder (pointless era - lol)

 

Chicagoland Raceway
17B West Ogden Ave
Westmont, IL 60559
(708) 203-8003
mikeswiss86@hotmail.com (also my PayPal address) 
Note: Send all USPS packages and mail to: 5858 Chase Ave., Downers Grove, IL 60516. Make checks out to Chicagoland Woodworking, Inc.


#58 Pablo

Pablo

    Builder

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 11,654 posts
  • Joined: 20-February 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Johnson Bayou

Posted 06 December 2016 - 10:21 PM

:shok: :laugh2:


Paul Wolcott

#59 bluecars

bluecars

    Race Leader

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 866 posts
  • Joined: 26-June 13
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Tuskegee, AL

Posted 07 December 2016 - 07:27 AM

My dyno is a $30 RPM meter from Harbor Freight :laugh2: 

 

Haven't  bought a new Hawk 7 or Retro in about three years.

 

My squid lube is a secret formula only the squid and I know and he's not telling.  :sarcastic_hand: 

 

If you run alum pans you have to use clips. :D


  • Rob Voska likes this

Robert "Red" Valantine :diablo: 


#60 Pablo

Pablo

    Builder

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 11,654 posts
  • Joined: 20-February 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Johnson Bayou

Posted 07 December 2016 - 07:35 AM

Why do you "have to"? I've used pins with aluminum pans before...


Paul Wolcott

#61 Pablo

Pablo

    Builder

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 11,654 posts
  • Joined: 20-February 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Johnson Bayou

Posted 07 December 2016 - 02:31 PM

When you punch your body mount holes, it leaves a raised nub where it exits.
Slice it off with a sharp blade (I use a scalpel), otherwise your body won't move freely.
 
IMG_4002.JPG
 
Clips are secured with tape. This also reinforces the bottom of the body skirt, precluding fouling.
Normally for a race car I use filament tape but this time I wanted to show off my sexy blue clips.
Transparent tape works fine.
 
IMG_4011.JPG
 
Cheater Wells and Jay Guard taught me this stuff years ago and it still works. :)
  • Jencar17 likes this
Paul Wolcott

#62 Pablo

Pablo

    Builder

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 11,654 posts
  • Joined: 20-February 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Johnson Bayou

Posted 07 December 2016 - 03:32 PM

I forgot about the rear wheels needing an additional 10 thou OD to clear. :)

Other than that, this car is ready to test and tune. Weight is 86.6 grams.
 
IMG_4032.JPG
 
IMG_4029.JPG
 
IMG_4030.JPG
  • Jencar17 and C. J. Bupgoo like this
Paul Wolcott

#63 Pablo

Pablo

    Builder

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 11,654 posts
  • Joined: 20-February 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Johnson Bayou

Posted 07 December 2016 - 04:16 PM

As an addendum, I'd like to say the rear upright brace probably isn't needed, as this chassis material is quite strong.

But I had one sitting here just collecting dust so I used it. No doubt in my mind it was simply overkill.

I chose not to double the tongue - due to the same reason - strong steel, and I didn't consider it necessary.  :)


  • MSwiss and JK Products like this
Paul Wolcott

#64 Cheater

Cheater

    Headmaster of the asylum

  • Root Admin
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 20,774 posts
  • Joined: 14-February 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Norcross, GA

Posted 07 December 2016 - 04:31 PM

As an addendum, I'd like to say the rear upright brace probably isn't needed.


Maybe, maybe not.

I think most racers underestimate the forces involved in the motor bracker/rear axle assembly, especially with inlines but also with anglewinders. And even more so with fast cars on highly-banked tracks.

One way to check whether an upright brace is warranted is to take your thumb and forefinger and squeeze as hard as you can to try to force the uprights toward each other. If you feel any movement at all, install a brace.

Here's a snippet from the T-Flex Tome giving another method for checking whether an upright brace is worth installing.

"On banked tracks, running fast C-can motors, a rear upright brace is necessary to keep the rear axle from binding in the banks; the rear of the chassis will flex under the loads it sees. You can usually see this yourself on an unbraced chassis: space the motor from the axle with a piece of paper when soldering it in place, and then take a black magic marker and color the axle for about 1/4 inch at the point where the can is nearest the axle. After racing a while, you will usually see that the can has been touching the axle, as evidenced by a silver stripe rubbed into the black marking."


Gregory Wells

Never forget that first place goes to the racer with the MOST laps, not the racer with the FASTEST lap


#65 Pablo

Pablo

    Builder

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 11,654 posts
  • Joined: 20-February 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Johnson Bayou

Posted 07 December 2016 - 05:45 PM

I did give it the squeeze test, believe me. I immediately sensed it doesn't need a brace.

Did it anyway just to show off. :)
Paul Wolcott

#66 bluecars

bluecars

    Race Leader

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 866 posts
  • Joined: 26-June 13
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Tuskegee, AL

Posted 07 December 2016 - 06:27 PM

Reason for clips with aluminum pans is having to get the body off and on quickly to straighten pans between heats if needed. :)


Robert "Red" Valantine :diablo: 


#67 Pablo

Pablo

    Builder

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 11,654 posts
  • Joined: 20-February 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Johnson Bayou

Posted 07 December 2016 - 06:34 PM

I hear that. My previous GTP car started out with aluminum pans/pin tubes and ended up with steel pans/clips.

 

Just wanted to point out it is possible to use pins with aluminum pans.


Paul Wolcott

#68 bluecars

bluecars

    Race Leader

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 866 posts
  • Joined: 26-June 13
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Tuskegee, AL

Posted 08 December 2016 - 07:13 AM

:dash2: :wacko2:


Robert "Red" Valantine :diablo: 


#69 Pablo

Pablo

    Builder

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 11,654 posts
  • Joined: 20-February 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Johnson Bayou

Posted 08 December 2016 - 09:11 AM

Why the angst? Was the blue paint job not pleasant for you, Monsieur Bobby? :laugh2:
Paul Wolcott

#70 Half Fast

Half Fast

    Keeper Of Odd Knowledge

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,380 posts
  • Joined: 02-May 07
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:NYC, Long Island

Posted 08 December 2016 - 11:10 AM

This step-by-step set-up guide deserves a place beside Greg's Turbo-Flex magnum opus! :good:

 

Cheers.


  • Cheater likes this

Bill Botjer

Faster then, wiser now


#71 bluecars

bluecars

    Race Leader

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 866 posts
  • Joined: 26-June 13
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Tuskegee, AL

Posted 08 December 2016 - 06:51 PM

:unknw: I think I'll be able to tell them apart. We'll see. :unknw:

Robert "Red" Valantine :diablo: 


#72 Pablo

Pablo

    Builder

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 11,654 posts
  • Joined: 20-February 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Johnson Bayou

Posted 08 December 2016 - 07:03 PM

Thanks, Bill B.

 

Red, I've no idea what you are talking about now - you lost me.


Paul Wolcott

#73 bluecars

bluecars

    Race Leader

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 866 posts
  • Joined: 26-June 13
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Tuskegee, AL

Posted 09 December 2016 - 07:25 AM

Pablo,

No idea that I may get confused about which blue car is mine?

Also the comment of having to use clips on alum pans was because of quick body removal which you have stated many times. Beating my head against the wall is you not thinking that I am aware of being able to use pin tubes on alum pans.

Hope this helps. LOL!!!


Robert "Red" Valantine :diablo: 


#74 Pablo

Pablo

    Builder

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 11,654 posts
  • Joined: 20-February 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Johnson Bayou

Posted 09 December 2016 - 11:30 AM

Well, stop beating yourself up.

 

Can't wait to test mine.


Paul Wolcott

#75 bluecars

bluecars

    Race Leader

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 866 posts
  • Joined: 26-June 13
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Tuskegee, AL

Posted 09 December 2016 - 04:41 PM

:good:


Robert "Red" Valantine :diablo: 


#76 Zippity

Zippity

    Posting Leader

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 4,252 posts
  • Joined: 05-March 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Wellington, New Zealand

Posted 09 December 2016 - 05:03 PM

Paul,

 

Have you tested your new toy yet?

 

:)



#77 Pablo

Pablo

    Builder

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 11,654 posts
  • Joined: 20-February 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Johnson Bayou

Posted 09 December 2016 - 05:09 PM

Track test 7 Jan 2017.
Paul Wolcott

#78 Zippity

Zippity

    Posting Leader

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 4,252 posts
  • Joined: 05-March 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Wellington, New Zealand

Posted 09 December 2016 - 06:22 PM

:( That is a long wait.

 

Keep us posted.



#79 Pablo

Pablo

    Builder

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 11,654 posts
  • Joined: 20-February 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Johnson Bayou

Posted 09 December 2016 - 06:42 PM

Sure.

 

Which parts are you most curious to see test results on? There is no doubt in my mind it will be dynamite.


Paul Wolcott

#80 Zippity

Zippity

    Posting Leader

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 4,252 posts
  • Joined: 05-March 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Wellington, New Zealand

Posted 09 December 2016 - 07:04 PM

Be prepared for just how deep you can go into those corners.  :)



#81 Pablo

Pablo

    Builder

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 11,654 posts
  • Joined: 20-February 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Johnson Bayou

Posted 15 January 2017 - 02:16 AM

Track test was delayed a week due to icy, windy weather across the southern continental USA on Jan. 7.

 

My sexy new C43 GTP car worked great (yesterday), just like I expected. Right out of the box it was perfectly race ready.

 

In the short amount of time I had to test, here are my findings/opinions:

 

1. My estimation of needing to add a 5 thou flag spacer to compensate for the Ralph Thorne chassis skin was spot on and I was happy with my scum patterns.

 

Instead of burn marks on the underside of the chassis where it normally shorts out and slows you down, I got a slick surface that is slightly scratched.

 

The skin, IMO, performed exactly as advertised. It's still intact and all I did after the race was wipe it with lighter fluid. I give this product an A+.

 

2. I have no scientific data to back it up, but the C43 worked super for me, first time out. I didn't adjust a single thing. It will dive into a corner and plant as well as, if not better than, any JK chassis I've even driven.

 

I did way overcook some entrances into the dead man and every time it would forgive, plant, and turn.

 

Usually my JK chassis perform this way, so I'm used to it. All I can say is, this one does it and maybe a better driver could push it even further.

 

Here is the braid wear and scum pattern after the race:

 

IMG_4645.JPG

 

And after I wiped it with lighter fluid:

 

IMG_4659.JPG

 

Skin still looks great and ready to rock n roll again.

 

The 7 thou Bentlee body was completely destroyed in a really bad crash but the car worked fine right to the end.  :)  :good:

 

Damage assessment to follow, tomorrow, but I don't think there will be much.


  • Jencar17, John C Martin and C. J. Bupgoo like this
Paul Wolcott

#82 Samiam

Samiam

    Posting Leader

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 3,378 posts
  • Joined: 18-January 12
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Long Island, NY

Posted 15 January 2017 - 09:34 AM

I seem to have exceeded my " Like " quota so here's my :good: .


Sam Levitch
 
When the only tool you have is a hammer, everything is a nail.
Support your local raceway, or you won't have one.
Slot cars are quad-pods.
Support your "Local Racer."
:laugh2:

#83 Fast Freddie

Fast Freddie

    On The Lead Lap

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 485 posts
  • Joined: 04-March 08

Posted 15 January 2017 - 12:08 PM

OK, guys, I need schooling on using pin tubes with aluminum pans. 

 

It's easy to do with the T-Flex because the motor doesn't interfere with the rear tubing but on a chassis where it does what method do you use to secure the rear pin tubes? I normally solder the rear tubes on the steel and stainless steel chassis. Do you use epoxy? If so what kind?  I would think even a good two-part epoxy wouldn't hold up although I have never tried it. 


Fred Younkin

#84 Pablo

Pablo

    Builder

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 11,654 posts
  • Joined: 20-February 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Johnson Bayou

Posted 15 January 2017 - 12:41 PM

Fred,

 

This car doesn't have aluminum pans nor does it use pins, but I'll try and help.
 
Here is a Pablo lightweight GTP flexi car which originally had aluminum pans and body pins (but eventually was switched to steel pans and clips).

 

Just solder keepers onto the tubes. They don't have to be rigid; in fact they can droop and move a little no problemo - post #55 right HERE.


Paul Wolcott

#85 Fast Freddie

Fast Freddie

    On The Lead Lap

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 485 posts
  • Joined: 04-March 08

Posted 15 January 2017 - 01:48 PM

Thanks Paul I can do that but just for old times sake I just might try clips modified in the manner you showed.  I haven't run with clips in 25 years but I've noticed many guys still do.


Fred Younkin

#86 Pablo

Pablo

    Builder

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 11,654 posts
  • Joined: 20-February 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Johnson Bayou

Posted 15 January 2017 - 02:32 PM

Post-race teardown: zero damage, other than a destroyed .007 Bentlee body and the clips need a new paint job :laugh2:

Believe me, it took some really hard hits. The C43 is still perfectly flat and true. I didn't even bother to remove the bite bars.

It's ready for the next race :D

 

IMG_4666.JPG

 

I oiled and braid juiced the car a half hour before the race. Other than an emergency body fix and changing lane stickers, that's all I did.

No frantic motor cooling, tweaking, juices, magic squid oil potions, nothing. Change lane sticker and slap it down.

 

Just for trivia's sake, this car (with chassis skin) weighs about 5 grams more than my C11 car. I don't think it even matters.

 

My conclusion is, the new JK C43 chassis is a winner and, as advertised, much stronger than previous JK chassis.

It retains the magic handling flex of previous versions. Easy to race prep and very low maintenance.

You won't see top level racers ripping the body off and tweaking the C43 back into shape between each heat like the C11's.

I give it an A+ :good: :good: :good:

 

Mission accomplished. I'll go back to my vintage trailer now

 

image5.JPG


  • Jencar17, glueside and JK Products like this
Paul Wolcott

#87 JK Products

JK Products

    Rookie Keyboard Racer

  • Full Member
  • Pip
  • 24 posts
  • Joined: 12-December 15
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Algonquin, IL

Posted 15 January 2017 - 03:20 PM

Hey Pablo, 

 

You musta used one o dem "screamer unicorn" motors cause you tore the hubs right off the back of a dat bad boy. 

 

Thanks for the kind words.

Tim 


Tim Homola
JK Products

#88 Pablo

Pablo

    Builder

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 11,654 posts
  • Joined: 20-February 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Johnson Bayou

Posted 15 January 2017 - 03:38 PM

Yep, drove the wheels right off it :laugh2:  Motor was a Hawk 7 with a new secret break in method - dry at 3 V for 15 mins.

No testing no tachometer reading no dyno no cherry picking - bought one and put it in the car. Just the facts  :dance3: 


  • Samiam likes this
Paul Wolcott

#89 gotboostedvr6

gotboostedvr6

    Race Leader

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 792 posts
  • Joined: 19-July 11
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Mt. Laurel

Posted 15 January 2017 - 03:48 PM

Pablo,

Thank you for taking the time for making this C43 build thread.

JK has a winner with this chassis. I have several observations of your build I'd like to discuss. Please accept my comments as constructive criticism.

I've found the use of Wonder rubber with a small diameter on banked tracks is extremely counterproductive. Going to a much larger diameter, possibly even running medium Wonder along with larger diameter plastic hubs and or narrowing always produces faster lap times. This is especially true when using high downforce bodys such as GTP.

That rear upright brace would be better served if it were mounted with the cross piece at the same height as the axle. In its current location a hard wall shot will still bend the corresponding uprite.

The motor mount JK supplys works better if it's mounted at a 45* angle from the can down to the chassis. This serves many purposes; first it keeps the motor in place but much more importantly it helps you maintain gear mesh through the bank. I also always solder the motor to the front of the motor box. This single change will drop your lap times tremendously.

Also that RTR skin only serves to raise the chassis cg .005", it only looks cool.

Dave

 

Screenshot_2017-01-15-15-36-53.png

 

2017-01-15 15.46.16.jpg


  • Jencar17 likes this
Thomas Jefferson: "Paper is poverty. It is only the ghost of money, and not money itself."
-David Parrotta

#90 elinsley

elinsley

    On The Lead Lap

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 219 posts
  • Joined: 29-April 15
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:West Haven, CT

Posted 15 January 2017 - 06:53 PM

Awesome build, Pablo!!


Eric Linsley

#91 Taylor Davis

Taylor Davis

    Mid-Pack Racer

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 164 posts
  • Joined: 04-January 15
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Hiram, GA

Posted 15 January 2017 - 08:15 PM

The motor mount JK supplys works better if it's mounted at a 45* angle from the can down to the chassis. This serves many purposes; first it keeps the motor in place but much more importantly it helps you maintain gear mesh through the bank.


Open wing cars don't solder in that high. How does it help maintain gear mesh any better than being flat???



#92 gotboostedvr6

gotboostedvr6

    Race Leader

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 792 posts
  • Joined: 19-July 11
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Mt. Laurel

Posted 15 January 2017 - 10:19 PM

Their chassis are much stiffer and weigh half as much.


Thomas Jefferson: "Paper is poverty. It is only the ghost of money, and not money itself."
-David Parrotta

#93 gotboostedvr6

gotboostedvr6

    Race Leader

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 792 posts
  • Joined: 19-July 11
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Mt. Laurel

Posted 15 January 2017 - 10:21 PM

Also the chassis solder point for the rear of the motor on spring steel chassis do not require that an additional brace be added to secure the motor.
Thomas Jefferson: "Paper is poverty. It is only the ghost of money, and not money itself."
-David Parrotta

#94 Taylor Davis

Taylor Davis

    Mid-Pack Racer

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 164 posts
  • Joined: 04-January 15
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Hiram, GA

Posted 15 January 2017 - 10:30 PM

They may weigh half as much sitting still but not hitting the bank at full speed. Also I don't think aluminum is stiffer than steel.



#95 Taylor Davis

Taylor Davis

    Mid-Pack Racer

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPip
  • 164 posts
  • Joined: 04-January 15
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Hiram, GA

Posted 15 January 2017 - 10:32 PM

Also the chassis solder point for the rear of the motor on spring steel chassis do not require that an additional brace be added to secure the motor.

 

You still didn't answer the question: how does the 45 deg. make it any stronger?



#96 gotboostedvr6

gotboostedvr6

    Race Leader

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 792 posts
  • Joined: 19-July 11
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Mt. Laurel

Posted 15 January 2017 - 10:56 PM

Think about the pivot point that might tighten up the gear mesh when hitting a bank.

My method makes a stiffer car. Try flexing a chassis while on a powersupply and listen for changes in the gear noise using both methods.


Thomas Jefferson: "Paper is poverty. It is only the ghost of money, and not money itself."
-David Parrotta

#97 Samiam

Samiam

    Posting Leader

  • Subscriber
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 3,378 posts
  • Joined: 18-January 12
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Long Island, NY

Posted 15 January 2017 - 11:05 PM

If all the solder joints are on one plane it is less stiff.


  • DOCinCocoa likes this
Sam Levitch
 
When the only tool you have is a hammer, everything is a nail.
Support your local raceway, or you won't have one.
Slot cars are quad-pods.
Support your "Local Racer."
:laugh2:

#98 swodem

swodem

    On The Lead Lap

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 264 posts
  • Joined: 29-October 14
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Auckland, NZ

Posted 15 January 2017 - 11:30 PM

Geez, Dave, is that your soldering job or did you accidentally drink some mercury and throw up all over the back of your car?
  • Pablo and Rob Voska like this

#99 MSwiss

MSwiss

    Grand Champion Poster

  • Advertiser
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 16,399 posts
  • Joined: 16-April 06
  • Gender:Male

Posted 16 January 2017 - 12:02 AM

I won't comment about the "soldering", except for someone so detail oriented, I surprised to see a portion of the brace, hanging in midair, doing nothing.

Why not just cut it off and get rid of it?

As far as flexing the chassis in your hands to hear a change in the gear mesh, I doubt whatever you're doing is happening in actual racing.

If "flexi" chassis were flexing a lot, why don't you ever see your arcing in the middle? LOL.

Mike Swiss
IRRA® Components Committee Chairman
Five-time USRA National Champion (two G7, one G27, two G7 Senior)
Two-time G7 World Champion (1988, 1990)

Eight-time G7 King track single lap world record holder (pointless era - lol)

 

Chicagoland Raceway
17B West Ogden Ave
Westmont, IL 60559
(708) 203-8003
mikeswiss86@hotmail.com (also my PayPal address) 
Note: Send all USPS packages and mail to: 5858 Chase Ave., Downers Grove, IL 60516. Make checks out to Chicagoland Woodworking, Inc.


#100 swodem

swodem

    On The Lead Lap

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 264 posts
  • Joined: 29-October 14
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Auckland, NZ

Posted 16 January 2017 - 06:07 AM

Recessed braid? We have one banked track down this neck of the woods and after a hard night running you do get a small buildup of track paint (true story!!) on the chassis. Track shows no sign of wear though! Must be thick paint! So the chassi must be flexing a little... admittedly there is only .024 clearance...





Electric Dreams Online Shop