3139 replies to this topic

[tonyp]

Nice!

[DPmax]

…….DCR #81 is a "Mid-Weight" chassis for Flat Tracks or Hillclimbs……………..Thanks for looking,DC

 

This same car was used this past Saturday on BPR's high speed King track with the removable center section taken out, handled very well.

Looks like this could be an incredibly versatile chassis for the traveling racer, no matter the track type!

Great build Don.

[DCR]

……..#84,,a DCR F1 built for SCRRA rules.Designed for a Very High Speed King track………DC

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[A Reeder]

That looks like a quarter midget chassis compared  to a sprint car ! That looks really short.

[DCR]

That looks like a quarter midget chassis compared  to a sprint car ! That looks really short.

 

…….Plus or Minus 3 or 4 inches…………….it's longer then some,,,shorter then most……………DC

[Les Boyd]

I have started on a redo of one of mr favorite chassis, it is a X25 kit.
I first set it up for a high banked tri oval. But I am going to go to GoFast's track so the whole chassis need a redo.
The original set up had only two main .62" wires which made it very tight. That did allow the use of harder tires. But at a race where they had hand out tires it was way too tight.
So to take some of the flexibility out I decided to add two more .55" wires and mount them to the outside of the nose.

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[MSwiss]

Les,
It's after the fact, but with your handout tire situation, you can narrow your tires.

[DCR]

…..New DCR Can Am for Mr Larry Woods!…………#85

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[James Grandi]

One of my few true scratchbuilds, the only pre-made components of the frame being the motor bracket and guide tongue. This one was a customer chassis that raced in last weekends Retro East race at Fast Tracks in PA.

4 rails ( 2 per side ) .063
.032 pans
.047 wire in 3/32 square tubing, double duty as up/down stops and pan movement control (.017-.018)
1.5" x 1" .064 nose piece
1.25" x 1" .064 shaker center weight
Chicagoland angled 1 inch bracket
Chicagoland hardened steel guide tongue

As a ready to run car (with motor/body), weight was 128 grams

*I've noticed that every picture I post here via my iPhone ends up rotating itself sideways, despite the picture being taken in the correct orientation. Not sure how to fix that

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[Tex]

How'd it do in the race? Have you driven it?

[James Grandi]

The car drove really nice once some weight was added to it - a bit too light for a small hillclimb without any lead. The guy seemed really pleased with it, but had a bit of a rough race. Stock cars are tricky to make handle - even trickier to drive quick

[blkdout76]

Amen to that James

[Cap Henry]

New F1, 4" WB, 60 grams as pictured

[Noose]

Hmm..I've seen that F1 Cap somewhere before (wink wink)

[Cap Henry]

It's based off a few different ideas I've seen. 

[James Grandi]

Yep, that rail style has kicked my *** a couple times. Makes for a great f1 car

[DCR]

…This is DCR #86  A Light-Weight  Retro Can-Am built for Mr Vteck Chuck Vaughn……….DC

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[Shooter7mustang]

Got a new JKD3X25R chassis for Christmas and don't have a clue about how to build it as it will be my first build. Are there any videos out there? Any help would be appreciated. It is for IRRA Can-Am class racing. Thanks !

[James Grandi]

I'll go ahead and assume you have the basic tools such as a decent soldering iron ( at least 50 watts, with a temperature controller ), dremel, decent pair of pliers preferably parallel jaw
and a chassis jig -

there aren't any videos of this particular chassis that I know of, but there are many pictures here on the blog of JK x25r chassis built by Cap Henry and Eric Gehrken that work extremely well. I've built them in the same style as they have, and I have yet to see a style of track that they do not work on

[Samiam]

There are so many build tutorials here but they are sometimes hard to find. These should get you started:

http://slotblog.net/...-2-f1-kit-2014/

http://slotblog.net/...o-can-am-build/

 

Not direct builds of your kit but Pablo's threads always show the important details many of us take for granted. Plus his attention to details translates to any build. Whether a vintage Pro Replica or a modern Retro build.

 

Good luck

[Shooter7mustang]

Thanks for the tips! You assume correctly , I have all that you mentioned and more. What kind of solder and size wire ?

[Samiam]

Found this:

 

http://irraslotracin.../steubedvd.html

 

Welcome to the SFB, Society of Finger Burners.

[JerseyJohn]

Thanks for the tips! You assume correctly , I have all that you mentioned and more. What kind of solder and size wire ?

http://www.amazon.co...er 60 40 solder

 

Kester 60/40 .062 and this flux DO NOT USE ON ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS>>>  http://www.amazon.co...stay clean flux

[James Grandi]

I like to use Kester 60/40, but in .032 diameter. Make sure you use a fan to pull the soldering fumes away from you.

Now, as for the main rail size, I like to build X25R chassis with .062 outer rails, and shorter .055 inner rails. Also, it is crucial to pay attention to the pan movement once you hang the pans and solder the hinges. They really need to be able to move smoothly, no bind. You can always tighten up/limit pan movement with tape later, but you can't compensate for a hinge wire and tube that don't line up right

[SlowBeas]

Is Steube's video still available online to view? If so, that's still the best tutorial for ground-level building that I've ever seen.