3139 replies to this topic

[Eddie Fleming]

For what it is worth?

 

 I would take the little rear pans out and fix them solid to the main side pains. (to many things flopping around)

 

.055 main rails I would strengthen by adding a third .062 half rail from the bite bar to the rear end. (to much flexing around in the motor bracket area)

 

Make sure it is flat and square.

 

Build simple, flat, square, and strong. 4' WB .9 GL That will work. then experiment from that. 

[tonyp]

Your car is short. Short cars are fast on sticky tracks. They react faster and can be hard to drive under less then ideal traction. I'd suggest the dimensions Eddie suggested as a good all around starting point. A longer car will be more forgiving in all traction scenarios. Move the split pans closer to the rear tires.


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[crazyphysicsteacher]

Thanks guys, I will go from there. I have another one in the works but just need to borrow some setup blocks to set the front axle and rear bearings to the right height. I will put it up for all to see soon.

[Trevor Rosenberg]

After watching online retro racing for the past couple years I decided to order the parts to build up a car, planning to make my way down for the R4/R10. Still not satisified with the rear pan stop so have only built half the car up. I think i will drill out the motor bracket and use a bite bar like on my eurosport chassis. The side rails are floating like on my 1/24th euro car. Any input or advice would be greatly appreciated.

[MSwiss]

What kind of body is that?

[Trevor Rosenberg]

What kind of body is that?

I just tossed the package, i believe a parma ti-22 mac short? Does that sound right?

[MSwiss]

Probably not a good choice for Tom Thumb.

Nice work on the chassis.

[Trevor Rosenberg]

Probably not a good choice for Tom Thumb.
Nice work on the chassis.

Thanks Mike! You make a can-am body?

[MSwiss]

No, I don't.

Parma 1043B and 1041B are good choices for TT.

[crazyphysicsteacher]

Okay gents. Here is the most recent build. It already hit the track and ran decent. I made sure to sand and clean the wire as I went and use as little of the silver stuff as I could. .9gl and a 4.05 wheelbase with 0.62 main wires using a 0.50 rgeo 1" tongue bracket. I hope to run it with a coupe body at HVR this weekend.

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[Dominator]

Hi Trevor,

You have all the pieces to make a great car. Retro chassis work kind of opposite to eurosports in that they like to be stiffer as the motors used have far less torque than the euro's. When a retro chassis has too much flex the car will pop out.

In terms of what rail combination to use, the rule of thumb I use is (each side) 1 rail of .078, 2 rails of .062, and 4 rails of .047. Most don't use .055 for rails but it doesn't mean it can't work. Rails are usually soldered full length from the nose to the motor bracketo however I am one of the uncommon ones who likes 8 rails (4 on each side) of .047 not soldered in the middle. This works well on flatter style or lower banked tracks. On modern King track's the rails being unsoldered will cause you to lose speed.

For the rear pan stops I suggest soldering the "L" verticallyrics to the motor bracket as this will hold up better in a crash.

[Upfront slot cars]

Trevor !!! Nice work on your first one man ! I can already tell your cars are gonna be nice after you get it figured out . Welcome to retro........ The sky is the limit

[James Grandi]

Trevor, that is great work in general, and would say it is amazing to see that qualify of work on your first retro build. I like just about everything I see going on there, there is one area I offer a suggestion with. It looks like you are using .047 wire in a piece of 1/8 square tubing to control pan movement - this is way, way more movement than you'll want to use in a car. Getting pan movement up/down to be in a range of .025 or less is pretty much the direction to go in

[Trevor Rosenberg]

Trevor, that is great work in general, and would say it is amazing to see that qualify of work on your first retro build. I like just about everything I see going on there, there is one area I offer a suggestion with. It looks like you are using .047 wire in a piece of 1/8 square tubing to control pan movement - this is way, way more movement than you'll want to use in a car. Getting pan movement up/down to be in a range of .025 or less is pretty much the direction to go in

James,

The tubing ID is .065 and the wire OD is .047 so it has .018 of range in the hinge, the rear is fixed so its limited to .018 of movement with the front being the floated portion the range is .036 at its maximum. The average range of movement would be .027 for the pans "shake".

As for weight placement, do you know off hand the balance point of the cars you have used at Tom Thumb? If you could find the balance point and then measure from the rear axle to the balance point for me that would be great. If you could also share with me the wheel base and guide lead of the cars you have had success with at Tom Thumb.

Dominic,

Do you prefer the stiff car with the lower power motor so you can run a softer tire and get the bite out of the car? My thiught process was a softer car would bring up the bite allowing a firmer tire or narrower tire. With the limited power motors i was hoping that by reducing the tire drag would create some additional speed in the chutes and straights.

Andrew,

Thank you very much, I have enjoyed following the progression of the cars you have been posting. I like that your always thinking and trying new ideas. Keep up the good work!

Cheers,

Trevor

[Trevor Rosenberg]

James,

I just re read the post and realized the reference was in regards to the pan tilting box tube, i have some smaller ID tubing that i will replace the boxed brass stop with.

Thanks,

Trevor

[Trevor Rosenberg]

Added the second pan and have started to work on tying the rear together.

[Dominator]

Trevor,

First great job on incorporating the tuning fork limiter into also a pan stop. It's really slick and I think you are the first to do this. Please let us know how this works.

For chassis flex v.s. softer or harder tires, when I first started building about 8 or 9 years ago my thought was along the same thinking as yours. Thinking if a flexible chassis works in eurosports it should work with Falcon motor. As I'm sure you know the eurosports motor are essentially in a constant state of torque so the chassis needs to flex to get grip. With the Falcon motors the average RPM is only around 50,000 and once they peak any torque that builds in the frame tends to unload when the RPM's drop back down. This causes the car to de-slot especially when accelerating out of a turn.

Most of the time guys will start with a JK untreated or Kelly Retro tire for low bank tracks like Tom Thumbs. On a higher speed track like Port Jeff or Slotcars R'us wonder rubber is needed with the higher banking and grip of the surface.

[slotcarone]

Beautiful chassis work Trevor!!  Nice design work. One thing I would suggest is a rear bracket brace like this one on a chassis I built a few years ago.  Very important to survive many types of wrecks.

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[Joexemm]

Car for a local guy. Less front axle didn't realize I was out!


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[Cap Henry]

Some new builds







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[tonyp]

I like that last one.


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[Cap Henry]

LOL

[Phil Smith]

I like that last one.


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LOL

 

What's the joke? Is it a Tony P knockoff?

[old & gray]

What's the joke? Is it a Tony P knockoff?

From an old Retro East report, when Tony was in New Jersy:

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[Cap Henry]

Yea Tony built the original in 2007-2008, this is the second copy I've built