3139 replies to this topic

[Phil Smith]

Gotcha!

[tonyp]

I got to build one myself. Grant built one and it runs really well. I dread having to gut out the pans.

[John Streisguth]

Let me know what you need and I can cut them on my band saw.

[Cap Henry]

That definitely sucks... lol

[crazyphysicsteacher]

Alrighty, I don't have the skills of Tony P or Cap Henry but here is my latest build. Done on a real block, .9GL ,4.0 WB. The pans are 078 while it has a single rail of 062 soldered in the back and a single brass rail of 048 connecting the ends. There are shaker tubes in the back with two pieces of wire as up amd down stops. 062 as the down amd 032 as the up. The up may need to be changed to tighten the car more.It flexes real nice and is my current attempt at a hybrid following a JimF design.

[slotcarone]

Chris that is going to be very underweight if you are racing to 100 gram rules. I would add 2 more pan rails to each side and move the body mounts to the top of the pan rails. They will be much stronger there soldered to 4 rails. There is no strength where they are now. Any good chassis has to be able to survive a wreck. Hope this helps!

[crazyphysicsteacher]

Thanks Mike. I will take that into consideration. I am shooting for the 100 gram minimum and it is just over that at 101.2g. The car is my fastest can am yet. Needs just a little more bite.......

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[Cap Henry]

New build, R-Geo GVP nose, Arrow pans, Swiss motor bracket. 52 grams.

[SlowBeas]

Cap (and others),

 

I enjoy viewing your builds.

 

I see you're using square tubing to hold round wire. Any specific reason (other than "it's all I had lying around" )?

 

Also, I'm seeing more builds these days with no rear gear guard. Are you of the opinion that they're not needed?

 

Just curious.

 

jb

[JimF]

That one ^^^^ will be gooood!

[Cap Henry]

I like that the box tubing lays flat, easy to solder and lots of surface area. As long as the motor box is braced well a gear guard isn't necessary. I've never broken a gear from a wall shot or getting hit by another car, only ever from not being braced well enough, i.e. Bending the bracket

[MSwiss]

For you have to really have a gear guard on a Retro chassis, it would have to be raised up to the height of the axle.

Regardless, as Cap mentioned, it's not needed.

The teeth on a crown gear aren't exposed.

[DOCinCanton]

I asked for help on a new 4-1/2" stock car chassis over on the GRRR folder. Finally, after some false starts, I was able to build it. Here it is.

 

I was able to run it at Bill Pinch's raceway tonight. Turns out to be my best road racing stocker! And I want to thank those who responded to my help post on GRRR.

 

Six rails of .047" wire each side. Brass is 032".

 

 

[tonyp]

Looks good Doc.

[Dominator]

Nice job, Doc. What does it weigh?

[DOCinCanton]

RTR on the track 130.4 grams. No lead weight.

[Hudson Valley Raceway]

New chassis kit coming soon from HVR/LUY.

 

Retro Stock Car based on the one I built for Jimmy Williams that has its fair share of Podiums. Bob Kalbfus set a track record with it at our store.

 

 

[Cap Henry]

Thanks to Josh Crutchfield for this sweet new RetroPro chassis!

[crazyphysicsteacher]

So what started as adding bearings lead to a total rebuild. .062" main and angled rails with an .055" down the center to stiffen it up. The rails are soldered front and back only with a small spot for the shaker mount. The pans are from the original setup and I kept them to allow to test with the original stock car body. The pans self-set to the lowest point and the spreader bar is to keep them from meeting midrace for a date.

[MSwiss]

A few things.

On your hinge wire, there wasn't any reason not to run it the full width of the pan, and lessen the chance of the pan getting knocked off in a crash.

Also, you can use a hotter iron.

Your lower temp joints look pretty good, but your bigger temp stuff, where brass is involved, look like they could use a bit more heat.

[tonyp]

And maybe more acid flux.

[crazyphysicsteacher]

Working on both as we speak. The pans are .062" and are the thickest I use on any car I currently have. I was using a torch to preheat the thicker stuff while also working around some old solder on some parts.

The hinge wire just ended up being short, no rhyme or reason. The pans are also in equal because that is how they were. If this works, I may make new pans with .032" to lighten the car and move stuff around.

Thanks for the input, guys. I always listen to the tips from the best.

[Tim Neja]

Take some time to clean and polish the areas you are going to solder as well.  Lot's more acid flux and heat until you see it "flow"!  The design should work well-- have fuN!

[slotcarone]

If that is a stock car chassis you need the .062" pans for the weight.

[glueside]

Here is one of the latest going out the door:

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