3139 replies to this topic

[MantaRay]

Craig,I like the "ears" you whittled out of the nose piece. I would think they are guide flag stops.

[Craig]

Craig,I like the "ears" you whittled out of the nose piece. I would think they are guide flag stops.

 

Exactly correct Ray.

 

I prefer to run a shorter guide lead so sugery needed to be performed so I could slide the guide tongue back.  A round grinding stone in the dremel, a little patience and some final filing got me the results you see there. 

[A. J. Hoyt]

Why does everyone put the little "kink" in the hinge wire going out to the .063 X .250 "bat pan"? Why not just cut a little angled notch in the "bat pan" and run the wire straight to the hinge tube? Simpler (single 90 degree) bend and the solder joint should be just as strong...

 

A proper chassis fixture would never let you go wrong.

 

Just askin'. I sometimes I get tempted to build a more "conventional" design and have always wondered about that...

 

Keep it "in the groove",

 

AJ

[JimF]

Personally, I find it way easier to put the dogleg bend in the hinge wire......but.......YMMV.

[EdC]

Speaking of the "dog leg" when do you put that bend in, before or after the 90?

[MSwiss]

Why does everyone put the little "kink" in the hinge wire going out to the .063 X .250 "bat pan"? Why not just cut a little angled notch in the "bat pan" and run the wire straight to the hinge tube? Simpler (single 90 degree) bend and the solder joint should be just as strong...

 

A proper chassis fixture would never let you go wrong.

 

Just askin'. I sometimes I get tempted to build a more "conventional" design and have always wondered about that...

 

Keep it "in the groove",

 

AJ

It seems like bending the wire is easier, and definitely neater, brass dust wise, than carving an angled groove in the width of the pan.

 

Also, if you solder your pin tube along side it, the wire being level, provides a neater/cleaner host.

 

The argument for doing it your way, would be a slightly lower center of gravity.

[JimF]

Speaking of the "dog leg" when do you put that bend in, before or after the 90?

 

After for sure.

 

FWIW.......I start with ~~ a 2" piece of wire for each hinge arm, put the 90* bend in, then an approximate dogleg, then slip it into the hinge tube, and lay the arm down on the pan. Adjust the angles if necessary, solder the arm in place and cutoff the excess width as the last step.

[MSwiss]

Ed,

Like Jim said, after makes more sense.

 

That 90 degree bend gives you something more substantial to grab on to with your pliers.

[DCR]

Hot off my jig,DCR #12.This is my first scratch built F1.

I stole ideas from a bunch of great builders on this one and you know who you are,LOL.Hopefully I'll get to race this in about 10hrs at the SCRRA race at BPR.............DC

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[Tex]

That's a sweet lookin' chassis, Don!

[SlotStox#53]

Top notch F1 build ,looks like you've been building them for a while ! If it goes half as good as it looks should be a winner!!

[macman]

Whose bracket, &  is it 3/4"???

[Tim Neja]

Looks GREAT Don---and yeah--it's definitely a 3/4 bracket!!  SWEET!!

[usadar]

For the coming Summer Western Classic at Buena Park Raceway, Kamo has built a new SCRRA Can-Am for me.

We call it a Kamo-Square & will do its shake-down on Saturday.

I have just got its picture taken from the bottom but its hinge movement is very standard as a Kamo-Speed.

The brass plates cut by Kamo for the chassis are .047 plates from Nobu Hanada.

According to Kamo-san, a ready to race car would weigh 90-92g, depending on a body & parts.

Whether or not I will race this at the coming SWC will depend on the result of its first shake-down on Saturday & my testing on the BPR King before the race.

 

 

Haruki

 

[Tex]

Great looking chassis, Haruki-san. Seeing such fine workmanship in your chassis'(and others!) is humbling.

[usadar]

Great looking chassis, Haruki-san. Seeing such fine workmanship in your chassis'(and others!) is humbling.

Hi, Tex,

Kamo-san tried to build a photogenic chassis.

We will find out its performance this coming weekend.

Please stay tuned.

Haruki

[Mad Mexican]

Hello Race Fans,

 

I would like to add to this blog a chassis that was built by 3d Racing. JK D3JKX25R Chassis Built By Eric Gehrken This chassis was delivered this past Thursday built it up on Saturday and test and tuned it on Sunday at REM Raceways 155ft Hill Climb. Handles extremely well with a motor that seem to be long in tooth it lap in the low 5.2 with a best lap of a 5.08 Tires used were JK standard hub with non treated tire. You can say that I'm very satisfied Thank you 3D racing with this chassis

 

http://slotblog.net/...ilt-x-25r-sold/

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[blkdout76]

All of us at 3d racing are glad to hear how happy you are with the chassis. Thanks for the positive feedback.

Gary Jr....3d racing.

[Preston M]

 

Rick sent me some of these to build up and try out. 

 

4 inch WB

1 inch GL 

10 rails of .047

floating bite bar. 

 

Weighs 57.7 grams as it sits. Should be a great coupe car

[Jim Lange]

Don, that chassis looks kinda familiar, how did it work for you?

[Craig]

After seeing the Kamo-Square chassis Haruki posted I decided to draw up a similar version as I like the concept.

 

Using a Warmack nose piece the following is what mine will look like.

 

[DCR]

.....Don't look Craig,mine is done......LOL

Just off the jig is DCR #14,,a Kamo Clone with a few mods.Im sort of happy with it,but I would change a few things if I need to build another one,,as this thing took me about 30hrs to build,,first time builds take longer,but this one was a HUGE pain with all the hand fitting and filing of parts,,I need to get another Sherline Mill to build this stuff.I hope to get to test it in a few days,but I need to keep building,back to work!......I hope your all well on this 4th of July!...................DC

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[SlotStox#53]

Looking good Don Really nice, like the front axle supports.

[Jim Lange]

Here's one I finished the other day. If 1 wish is good, is 2 better? We'll see next week. 2 wishbones of .055 with .039 outside.

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[Jim Lange]

This was a Kamo clone that after I tested it, didn't blow my skirt up. So I added a new twist. (or two) .062 rail pivots in the front tube, .055 pivots in the rear, .039 connects the two.

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