3139 replies to this topic

[MSwiss]

A Jersey John "A Mainer" copy.

He's officially made it. Lol

Actually a fair amount different.

Way different down stop system.

Nice job by Eric.

[JerseyJohn]

LOL agreed Mike. great work, looks a lot more flex able. My chassis by design is stiff from the motor back and gets flexible forward of the Motor.

[Noose]

KATZenjammer Slammer

[JerseyJohn]

Sexy Stocker, another great Katz Build !!!

[slotcarone]

Since I won't be in the Stock car race I hope Joe can make it work and put it in the A main!!

[Eddie Fleming]

It has been 25 years but I thought I would give building a try. For the first one I kept it simple. Looks like it may require a little weight, but not much. 

 

Attached Images

• 
• 

[MSwiss]

Nice job.

[Tex]

Looks great, Eddie! Simple is usually the best. Now, go race it!

[Eddie Fleming]

Thanks Mike. I have looked at some of your parts and will be in touch when I start the next one.

[Tim Neja]

Looks good---simple and effective!!! Nice!!

[slotcarone]

Looks good Ed!!You will have a big smile when you drive it around the track!! If I may make a suggestion--try putting acid on the bottom of the pan hinge tubes and resoldering without adding any more solder. This will make a much stronger joint since the tubes will now be attached securely on both sides.

[Gator Bob]

2015 Gator-Built AdjustaBite^TM  LTO (prototype preview)

 

R-Geo Kit based 3 rail will get inspected for rule compliance at this stage before final fit and finish.

"Why mess around?" After solder touch-up and tumble it should look pretty good. Test results to follow.

 

**Beware of copies**

 

 

[slotcarone]

Bob that looks real nice!! I don't see any reason why it should not be legal. My question is what are the vertical pieces attached to the pin tubes for?  Also have you ever had a motor attached to that bracket?

[TG Racing]

Bob, Looks interesting.  3 rail?  I think I see 4.  Could you explain what the motor box/rear end does?  I assume the vertical brass pieces in the middle are to control flex?  Great Build!

[JimF]

Really nice build from a great basic starting point (Victory kit). Looks to me as if the primary function of the vertical fences is to provide lightweight reinforcement to the pin tubes. What I'm wondering about is the "adjustable" part. Looks to me that the adjustment is adjusting the wheelbase via moving the rear bracket fore and aft but then...................I don't see all that well these days. 

[Gator Bob]

Coming from you guys it must be OK so far.

Thanks !

Bob that looks real nice!! I don't see any reason why it should not be legal. My question is what are the vertical pieces attached to the pin tubes for?  Also have you ever had a motor attached to that bracket?

Mike,

Motor was mounted, bracket tweeked to (almost totally) flat, flaired for BB/PD if needed. The motor was removed before the axle tube was put in... it's a complicated process (for me) to build the floting box. Picture #4 makes the mount look totally curved but I think the angle cut on the 'Sliders' and the camera really tricks the eye.  

 

Bob, Looks interesting.  3 rail?  I think I see 4.  Could you explain what the motor box/rear end does?  I assume the vertical brass pieces in the middle are to control flex?  Great Build!

Thom,

It's 3 rails.

Here is the 'Slider Box' post assembly in the 'chill-out' stage. This would be the best time to sand the solder joints and then tumble.

 

 

Really nice build from a great basic starting point (Victory kit). Looks to me as if the primary function of the vertical fences is to provide lightweight reinforcement to the pin tubes. What I'm wondering about is the "adjustable" part. Looks to me that the adjustment is adjusting the wheelbase via moving the rear bracket fore and aft but then...................I don't see all that well these days. 

 

Jim,

The "AdjustaBite" feature gives the option of adding up to 1/6th of an inch of pre-set 'rear steer'. The 2x1 rail flex will add more active movement under load on track. The  static 1/6th'full bite' will probably only needed be on shorter flat tracks    

 

Keep in mind this is a Left Turn Only chassis.

 

The vertical brass 'Aero-Pans" serves many functions. I figured if I was going to raise the cars weight and CoG with these they better work hard.

 

• Possible under body air channeling.
• They keep the narrow rails strong by making them a modified 'T' 
• They support and ad some rigidity to the body pin tubes.
• Flexibility in body tuning with respect to side force. Locals affectionately call many of my LTO cars "all cattywompus".
• And .. last but not least will be 'Body Slop or Stop' and obvious when the car is completed. 

The chassis is far from complete as I have to do the whole front end 'Inertia cross weight' drop center part.

 

The front up-rights are spread to the full width of the pans. If what is seen here is IRRA compliant then the rest of the chassis will be too.

 

What I learned in slots was brought over to 1:1, now that I'm back in slots I'm bring over what I learned in 1:1 racing.

Much of it does translate 'both ways'. 

[Craig]

Spent some time over the weekend with the hopes of upping my game at the Summer Western Classic.

 

Got some info from my friend Don Cambell because I wanted to build a multi rail chassis similar to what he has been doing quite well with lately.

 

This is what came off the jig.

 

 

This is the drawing I did in advance.

 

 

I recycled an old chassis I had stuffed in my retired chassis drawer for the Warmack nose piece.  Ripped it apart and sliced and diced to what is pictured.

 

Overall length:  4.835"

Guide lead:       1.00"

Wheelbase:       3.835

Main Rails:         4 X .047"  (per side)

Pans:                 3 X .0625" (per side)

Motor bracket:   1.00" Warmack

[Tex]

Good job, Craig! Recycling, huh? Why not... the 1:1 guys did it too.

[Cap Henry]

New DS6 build, 4" WB, 10 rails .047 only soldered front and rear. 57 grams bare

[DCR]

……This is DCR #47…….built for a customer for the up coming Western Classic race in July at BPR.Light weight Can-Am for a high-speed king track.At 43g this should build a 90gram RTR.

 

I plan to build a few more Can-Am's to sell before the big race…………….Take Care everyone……..DC

Attached Images

• 

[JerseyJohn]

Awesome build and design Don....

[DCR]

Awesome build and design Don....

 

Thank you John……….DC

[DCR]

…..Hot off the jig,DCR #52….a customer order,,this one is about as light as Iv ever built,that's what the man wanted.At 37g it should build a mid 80 gram RTR.I just hope he never hits anything with it!…LOL………DC

Attached Images

• 

[DCR]

….DCR #53, another customer order.A little longer,stronger then #52,it is also a bit heaver at 40g…..a nice weight,should build a 88-90 gram RTR….also it has some tricks that I hope will give the car even more bite………..DC

Attached Images

• 

[Cap Henry]

Built some new stuff in my downtime this week. First are a Can-Am/ F1 Pair using Samson style .063 steel/ bronze rails. Can-Am uses a Warmack Nose and Older R-Geo Pans with a 3/4" CL MB. F1 is a Raptor Kit using a CL 3/4" MB and Flat Tongue. 

 

The other car I built is a Tony P inspired 18 rail Can-Am. 18 Rails of .039, Warmack Nose, Older CL 3/4" MB.