3139 replies to this topic

[Tex]

Not meant to be an F-1.

[Justin Wills]

Nice. Maybe a little hard to marshall, but nice

[Tim Neja]

Hmmm--it may be susceptible to  "tweaking" as brass does not have a lot of "memory"!  But it sure looks cool!!

[Eddie Fleming]

Not saying it was an F1, just that it looked like one with wide body mounts.

[JerseyJohn]

Third generation JERSEY JOHN TRI_TUNER

 

The Tuner rails are Independent of main rails .- floating bite bar.-
The main rails are made of one piece of wire wrapped around the motor bracket
I made this chassis with more flex for tracks that tend to be a little
loose.- It can also be stiffened by soldering in 1/4 x .062 stiffeners between tuner and main rail

 

 

 

                                                            

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Tex]

Very nice, JJ!

[DCR]

Nice. Maybe a little hard to marshall, but nice

 

Yes Justin,,I guess that could be a problem before I built it,,,,but I did come-up with a easy fix if I ever raced the car.I built these brass based cars in 2013……The strength issue bugged me from the start,,,but they did handle sweet.Im building some more brass cars right now for testing,,,,Im starting very my builds very conservative to start,,and I will cut & grind on them a little at a time to see what I can get away with,,the new cars will look pretty standard stuff……..thanks DC

[DCR]

…….This is a F1 I built in 2013 also…….I have some new updated Brass F1 cars in the works for testing soon……..DC

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[MSwiss]

I ran a chassis for quite a long time that didn't have the pans at the widest point of the chassis and marshaling wasn't an issue.

If the pans don't have a bent up lip, you're relying on the body stiffness anyway.

[86ed once again]

My retro pro car doesn't have sides, just the body mounts sticking out. Isn't hard to marshal at all.

[DOCinCanton]

I was fortunate to win a Duffy War Beaver chassis kit at the GRRR awards race. Duffy had denoted the kit as a prize. Thank you Duffy. The chassis kit went together very easily. The parts are very well made. The pan are flat and the motor bracket square. This is a very nice kit. Since my soldering skills are not as good as so many others on this thread, I have been reluctant to post any of my chassis. But I had to show this kit because its so good. The car RTR is 105 grams.  Also, the kit came with an instruction sheet and pics.

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[James Grandi]

Chassis looks good! One thing though, maybe it's just the picture angles, but the front track width looks narrow?

[DOCinCanton]

If it gets any wider, the outer edge of the front tires will rub the front fenders. I do not trim away all of the front fender. I could use spacers and get the front track a little wider but not much. Now the front track width is 2 15/16".

I don't know. Do you trim away all of the side fender?

[James Grandi]

I don't have to normally, I use the Parma TI22 for Can-Am and the Parma Lola T70 for GT Coupe and don't have any issues with front tire to body clearance. I have had that problem when using some OS bodies, the Chevron B16 in particular.

I've also had an issue when using a JK TI22, but that was the only time I ever tried one of those.

I also tru all my front tires down to .760-.765

[DOCinCanton]

I have a Parma Ti22 on this chassis. It does look like I could go out to 3".

[Danny Zona]

Nice build, Doc. Don't worry how nice the solder joints look. Just worry how they perform. That is all that matters. I'll see you in Holly Hill. Tony P calls it, Holly Hell. We are the, Holly Hellions. Ha-ha.

[Noose]

I have a Parma Ti22 on this chassis. It does look like I could go out to 3".

You should be able to get to the max allowed width with that body with absolutely no problem Doc.

[John Streisguth]

I always make sure I cut my bodies so that they have plenty of clearance around the tires, and then put a little smear of shoe-goo just inside the lip to help prevent rips

[Half Fast]

Doc-

 

Taking track width out to the maximum permitted by the rules will definitely increase cornering speed over a non- maximum car.

 

Cheers

[Cap Henry]

Those fronts look way too big. I just installed some HVR fronts on customer cars and they were .780.785, which is WAY big. I'd start with .765-.770 which will gain you front clearance on the body.

[John Streisguth]

My scissors don't have .010" accuracy....

 

But yes, I have seen that HVR fronts are a little big. Don't think it makes a huge difference on the bodies unless you really have the nose slammed down.  A bigger issue is putting them onto a chassis set for .750 tires, and then finding the front of the chassis 030 above your tech block

[tonyp]

Looks great doc.

[glueside]

Finally got into the shop and done a copy of Cap Henry (sorry):

 

 

 

 

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[Cap Henry]

Looks great!

If you race on super speedways Id advise adding an extra rail on top of the others to stiffen the car up a lil more

[Half Fast]

Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery  

 

Cheers