3139 replies to this topic

[Danny Zona]

Modified(WreckReady) R-Geo DS6. I added front ears. It is a 1/4" shorter then its stock length. It weighs in about 97 grams depending on what front wheels I use. This particular version has 10 rails of .047. My stiff version has 6 rails of .062 wire, 4 main rails and 2 side rails.

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[Tex]

LOL 

 

Man, I just don't get it.... I use less solder than that, wire-only perimeter pans, wire-only bumpers up front... and STILL can't get under 100 grams!

[Michael Rigsby]

Doc, I use the Parma TI-22 wide nose in nearly all my builds and can take the fronts to full width. I use either uncut HVR fronts or Samson fronts with no issues.  Now trying the same thing with a Parma Lola T163 is another matter entirely.

[Cap Henry]

A new Samson rail X25 for myself

 

And a Z-Rail for a customer

[James Grandi]

New one for me, wanted to try a different mousetrap from my usual.
RGeo nose plate, Chicagoland bracket. Pans and rear weights are .032

10 rails of .047
3-15/16 wheelbase
.039 hinge wires into 2MM square tubing
.047 into 3/32 square for up/down stops
Weight as it sits - 49.6 grams

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[Dominator]

Nicely done James. Don't forget to add a "V" piece of .025 or .032 wire over the wish bone to limit flex. You can of course try it without but you will see it make a big difference going around the donut part of the track especially at PA.

[James Grandi]

Thanks Dom, I knew I was forgetting something. She came out real light fully assembled, 101g with a can-am body. Get the feeling I'll be adding weight to it. Next time I'll try using .062 pans like yours do

[kvanpelt]

Nice build James!

 

Is there a common wishbone length inside of the square tubing or is that a tuning option as well? 

[Dominator]

Hi Kevin,

When I make my wishbones I usually make the bed about 7/8" in front of the motor bracket. I think the more important aspect is how/where you set your limiter. Do you use a single piece of wire in the middle of the wishbone or do you use a "V" piece of wire. Personly I like using using the "V" because if I need more bite I cut the "V" in the middle so the two wish bones work independently of each other.

[Gator Bob]

Damn nice work James G.

I like the rear pan down stop location, adds a lot.

[Rick]

Cap is the only one I know of that does not have the tuning fork joined at the split. Everyone else runs it soldered...........

[Cap Henry]

They always worked better for me unsoldered.

But hey, I don't always follow the trends lol

[James Grandi]

Nice build James!
 
Is there a common wishbone length inside of the square tubing or is that a tuning option as well? 

I run the wires full length, I leave about 1/16 space before they bottom out where the tubing meets the nose plate. To be honest I've never tried running them shorter/longer in the tubes. The other chassis I built were all .062 wishbone cars, this is my first using a .047 wishbone

[SlowBeas]

I've tried my R-Geo F1 tuning fork chassis a couple times on a Grandstand without the addition of the flex limiter, and it seems to work very well. In fact, it flies through the doughnut without any loss of traction.

 

I'm of the mindset that you should always give a chassis a try on the track and perform a little track-tuning before making structural changes. Just a humble opinion...

[Craig]

Been a while since I've built a new chassis.  Partly from loosing interest in the hobby and partly from medical issues that have plagued me over the last several months.

 

I got motivated this weekend and built a new ride that I'm hoping will work at the up coming Festival of Speed at BPR in April.

 

 

 

Quite a bit shorter than what I normally run at 4-5/8" overall length

4.00" wheelbase

1.00" coined nose piece braced

10 rails of .039"

2 rails of .047"

1.00" Hanada motor bracket 

Front ballast of .078" x 3/4" to help keep the nose planted.

 

 

[Tex]

Looks nice, Craig! Good luck at the FoS!

[DCR]

…….DCR #65 is a Mid weight Can-Am.Built for a customer's RTR……..

 

….Thanks DC…...

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[Tex]

Looks nice & strong, Don!

[DCR]

Looks nice & strong, Don!

 

Thank you Richard……I built this for a old time Slot Racer that is going to Tokyo for a Retro race,,and I wanted a strong-fast car for him,,,this guy still had a Slot Box with some cars from the 1960s,,all stock,that he purchased new…..so the man likes to "Hold On" to his toys…A nice guy too!…………..DC

[Tex]

The last few chassis' I've  built lean towards being very strong; t-boning an errant car on a King track can be vicious... being able to merely replace the car into the slot and drive away is worth it's weight in gold.

[SlowBeas]

I've noticed more and more builders using piano wire instead of brass pans. What do you see as the key reasons?

 

I think I could come up with a few of my own -- desired custom thickness of the wire "pans," custom width and, thus, weight. But I'd welcome your own reasons and rationale. Comments on strength and reparability?

[tonyp]

They dont bend.

[Mike Henry]

Is there a video/book or anything on how to properly use a back track retro jig and wire bender I mean it's fun to tinker with it all but I need a good lesson/tutorial on how to use it I've never had to scratch build cars before my experience is mostly flexi cars and real dirt oval race cars

[Michael Rigsby]

Mike,

 

If you want to meet me on a Sunday over at the track, I can show you how to do chassis setup and layout on the jig, and can give you a quick lesson on the wire bending portion of it.

 

You have the newer jig that has a separate building table, the one I was using was the original single table that did both.  Another person on here that  you can PM is Mike Swiss, he may still have his .pdf file on the original jig showing how to bend wire.

 

Let me know.

[JerseyJohn]

just Built a Stocker-Tuner

 

.062 rails

.032x.750 pans

Rgeo Nose and Motor bracket

Chicagoland Rear Bracket

Built on a Precision Jig.