3139 replies to this topic

[Bill from NH]

 

 Another person on here that  you can PM is Mike Swiss, he may still have his .pdf file on the original jig showing how to bend wire.

 

Mike & Michael, Go to the [search] box at the upper right corner of this page & type in "Backtrack Chassis Jigs". You'll get the lead-ins to Mike Swiss's articles (as well as a few others) he posted on the use of Backtrack's chassis & wire bending jigs. It looks like all are still posted on Slotblog.

[James Grandi]

Mike Henry,

A good pair of parallel jaw pliers would be useful as well. When I started, they were great for bending up hinge wires ( especially anything smaller than .047 ). Now I use them for pretty much everything, even making tuning fork/wishbone rails. My wire bending jig spends most of it's time in a box

[tonyp]

I found I could bend the wire a couple times and get it right quicker than I could set up a bending jig. A good pair of parallel jaw pliers like mentioned are your best friend. a pair if lineman pliers and a good set of needle nose which you can grind multiple grooves in the inner jaw faces will let you make all those small wire bends the same length. Old school still works.

[Tex]

...a good set of needle nose which you can grind multiple grooves in the inner jaw faces will let you make all those small wire bends the same length...

 

Crap!

 

So simple!

 

Gimme 20 more years and maybe it won't be so hard; thanks for the tip, Tony!

[Michael Rigsby]

I don't use the backtack jig anymore at all and quit using the wire bending part when I found it too much of a pain in the butt. I bought the top of the line PSC Scratch Builder Long Deluxe jig with all the trimmings and bend my wire with pliers I got from MicroMark and a small pair of Crescent pliers and find it much easier than any bending jig.

 

But the young man's parents bought him the latest Backtack double jig setup from our raceway and I was offering to help him learn how to build on it and get it right the first time.

[Duffy]

Sure, it's possible to make the leap away from bending jigs, & I've argued in favor of that myself on occasions; but this was quite a gift, and it should be supported and encouraged. Has the tutoring session happened yet? Tell us how it went.

[Mike Henry]

Duffy the tutorial lesson hasn't happened yet mike rigsby was awesome enough to offer to meet at our local track but my new open wheel modified takes priority here lately that's why I was looking for videos and PDF's so i could learn a bit when I wasn't working on it or at work

[Michael Rigsby]

Mike,

 

Not a problem.  I have the tutorial printed out that I've had for a few years, and I'll leave it at the track for you to pick up.  I'll leave it with Rollin and Johnny today.  I can steer you away from mistakes I made years ago when I got back to building and give you an idea of additional tools you may want to have handy, as well as where to get the best buy on building supplies (wire, sheet brass, tubing, etc). 

 

When you are able to do your first kit build, then do your first pure scratchbuild and see the difference and know what goes into building, then you will know the work involved and the sense of pride you feel when you can say "I built that".

 

Take it easy and good luck racing Mike. PM me if you need to, I'll help anyway I can.

 

P.S.  If you don't get a chance to build anything between now and when we have the GRRR race at the end of next month, see me, I have plenty of extra good running and handling F1's and Can Ams you can "test race". With your reflexes, I know you can drive them better than I can.

[Bill from NH]

Michael, there shouldn't be any problem posting your link, The same Backtrack tutorial was posted by Mike Swiss on here three days previous.

[JoB]

A query about the GVP chassis!

 

How much should the movement for up&down play be on the wings?

[Cap Henry]

Start using tubing that is 3/32 OD with .047 wire on the inside. 

[TG Racing]

Cap, is that for a damping effect?

[Cap Henry]

Just my standard set up for floppy pans, seems to be a good start for movement.

One of the trends the past few years has been reducing the amount of movement the cars have.

[raisin27]

The direction I have been going on the GVP style chassis is very little up and down movement and more (about .055) fore and aft movement with the side pans. Its been working quite well for me.

[Dominator]

Start using tubing that is 3/32 OD with .047 wire on the inside. 

 

That's what I use.

[Cap Henry]

New F1, center section based off Ed Sohl's cars, with a plumber pan set up. Raptor .060 pans, .060 center weight and nose piece, Chicagoland flat tongue, JK 3/4" MB

[slotcarone]

Nice F1 Cap!!  What wheelbase a guide lead are you using?

[Cap Henry]

I went 4" wb and .95" gl

[Half Fast]

Nice build Cap! As soon as you learn to drive you'll be good to go

 

Cheers

[ejgehrken]

New Stock Car Chassis for John Weaver 

 

Gehrken Chassis #106

4 Rails of 0.062" Wire

Hansen "Zero" Motor Bracket

C/R Guide Tongue 

"Shaker" Center Weight

4.5" WB

0.75" GL

 

 

 

[Matt Sheldon]

That is a great looking chassis Eric and should work awesome!

[JerseyJohn]

Jersey John STOCK CAR / GTCOUPE

.062 wire/ .032 x .750 pans

Rgeo Nose and Bracket

Chicago Land rear Brace

Can be configured for either spec

 

[Cap Henry]

How does the car work as both a stock car and GTC?

[JohnnySlotcar]

Slip joint! LOL

[JerseyJohn]

[quote name="Cap Henry" post="589066" timestamp="1428334725"]

How does the car work as both a stock car and GTC? [/quote
I make it to either spec when built. Some guys like weight distribution for coupes. OBVIOUSLY once its built its rather or...