Post #10
Thank you Martin.
I think if one person benefits from this thread I have done my job here.
BEGINNING A MASTER !!!
When a project was brought to me from John Brunson the owner, Lloyd wasn't part of this process, , I was given any means at
my disposal to create the master.
I think John had a subscription to every auto publication at the time.
He would come into my work room with a arm load of magazines to go over with me and we'd
talk over the project a bit, and after a while we had kind of a routine understanding of how most
things would be done.
At times there wouldn't be enough photo coverage of a car to suit John, and he's have me go
to the library for further research.
Once I had enough pictures of the project, I would begin sketching out a rough side view and top
view of the body on graph paper to get the art work in scale.
Even before Lancer Co. I was an accomplished
artist who had my work, both art and sculpting's in local shows and galleries, as well as being a published award winning
model car builder with model cars pictured inside as well as on magazine covers; SEE Rod &Custom magazine - June 1962,
Car Craft magazine - May 1962, and a one time only published AMT Model Car Handbook 1962....(see Ebay - there's copies there for sale periodically.
There collector's items now. I guess that officially makes me ancient ) . My model is on
the cover and featured inside, and Chosen as one of the top 10 models in the U.S that year by Car craft and
Rod & Custom magazine editors. I also had 2 years of college where I majored in mechanical engineering design and drawing.
I wanted to design sky scrapers for a living at the time. I was ambitious !!!
But I gave up one dream to follow another. I never looked back, and life became better than I could have ever imagined.
I went on to have a very successful engineering career in Oregon. There was life after Lancer Co. I have been retired now for 15 years.
I retired at 59.
I'm still quite busy creating my own artwork and using all those wonderful engineering classes I took in college for all my personal projects.
Is life good??? NO... AT 75 IT'S GREAT , I have been blessed !!!
After a year of training by Lloyd to make the masters, I was building masters at Lloyds level of skill.
Once John had approved my design work, Lloyd didn't do any of this, I went ahead and did a final finished set of working
drawings that I could scale the car from with all the details to be included.
The block of plaster I would use to carve the master from I had already poured into a mold, de-molded, and set aside to let the moisture evaporate for
a week and then heat cured in a designated oven for another day until it was fully cured.
The process to check it being moisture free was to set the block of plaster on a piece of steel to see if any moisture formed on the cold steel.
Once the plaster was fully cured I would go into the machine shop, where Milt Gibbs, our resident machinist was, and have him fly cut the plaster block to size
and machine a 1/4 in wide slot in the bottom about 4 inches long for a for a locating devise we could slide in.
(We used a 1/4 inch square machining tool blank that machinists use to form a cutting tool into for lathe work).
We also had one large piece of 2 inch thick phenolic block 12 inches square that had a 1/4 inch wide slot machined in it by Milt
to locate the plaster block for repeatability and exactness, so we could remove the master at any point in construction and then replace it exactly where it had been removed.
We also had a smaller piece of phenolic with a 1/4 inch slot in it. This was used to lay on it's side on the other larger phenolic block so we could use
our height gauge with a pencil in it to do the precise layout work that would give me the graph lines that matched the graph paper used for the body
layout and be the exact same spacing and location.
Once I had charted the block of plaster, I returned to my master drawings and traced over them using tracing paper, and then with carbon transfer paper, I would
transfer the designs ( There were 2 designs - one from the side and one from the top) to the charted block of plaster after center lines had been established on the
block of plaster for the reference base line that the design was started from. Once all of this was done, the block of dental plaster was ready for the design
to be carved into it.
We used coarse rasps to begin the roughing in process. We did only one side at a time, working to the center line on the top of the block.
Once the 1/2 shape of the master was completed using finer files and sandpaper, I would begin making templates at chosen points along the length of the body
to be transferred to the other side at the exact same location.
The templates were made by starting with non-hardening modeling clay. I'd roll a piece of clay into a cylinder like rolling bread dough, into a length of about 2 inches.
I would then wrap the clay cylinder around the plaster shape at a given location, and depending on body style - GP or 4 wheel, I would the take an Exacto knife and cut through the cylinder gently
to form a flat surface on the clay, outlining the car body, and cutting the cylinder into 2 pieces. Clay doesn't stick tightly to plaster because of the powdery surface, so it was easy to remove the 2 pieces of clay that were left after splitting the one piece into 2 pieces. I would choose one piece to keep and return the other piece back to the lump it came from.
I had sheets of .040 white styrene plastic that I would cut into template size pieces. I would take the piece of clay with a flat side on it created by cutting through it with the
Exacto knife and lay it flat against one of the template blanks of styrene plastic. Next, I would lay the template on a large scrap piece of disposable paper, like newspaper,
and with a large spray can of black lacquer primer, I would spray the entire piece including the clay, to get an outline of the clay template to be transferred to the sheet of styrene plastic.
The primer dried almost instantly, so there was very little wait time to remove the clay from the styrene.
This step would be repeated many times, 10-15, depending on the style of car being replicated. Each template was numbered and a corresponding number was put on the
plaster at that location. Once all were done, they were set aside to dry for a short while. Like I said before, lacquer primer dries quickly.
The last step was to very carefully trim out each template, removing everything that was primered, leaving a female template to be used on the other side for the matching shape.
Next post to come........
Finishing the plaster master, getting it ready for the RTV silicone rubber mold, and casting the master, and the finishing work, then making the base it sat on during forming.
Yeah...it was complicated. But no one made um like Lancer.