3573 replies to this topic

[Alchemist]

All the motors that I have acquired from Sir John H are all "Hot"!! That's what the guys say that I have shown John's motors to!

Even now John, each and every rewind you share on the forum, intrigues, fascinates and excites me - just like the first time!!! Also the motors that Vic and Robert (pardon me please if I've left anyone out that has posted their rewind) get me inspired and excited!!

Thank you gents for sharing!

Ernie

[havlicek]

Thanks again Ernie I like to think the motors keep getting better but even the ones that were totally and completely inappropriate and nutso are special to me because they all represent "steps" along the way. Like I've said here before, I may never quite "get there", but the trip has been fun!

-john

[Jeff Buyer]

John, with that endbell strap to hold the bearing, this motor is starting to look like the 36D's we ran at Buena Park a few years back. I can't wait to see the finished product.

[havlicek]

Hey Jeff...thanks Well, I dun doo'd it and I gotta say this is one suweeet 36D. I did a #27 sgl. wind for this thing, but favored torque and brakes over revs, and the thing screams like a banshee (for an FT36D anyway). Torque and "natural" brakes seem outstanding too! As I often do, I removed the fiber endplates from the stack and shortened it by another 2 lams, and it got a Kirkwood com that I welded. The motor seems to be working really efficiently, because with all the revs and torque, it still only draws under an amp at 6V...with only a very short (less than 5 minutes) break-in, staying really cool! I went to town on the endbell as well on this one, using old Mura C motor hoods mounted on thicker brass brush plates with integral tabs. I figured the thicker brass would help dissipate heat better over the wider area of the jumbo 36D endbell. As it turns out, the arm seems like it would survive with ease even with the stock endbell hardware. I have to believe the more precise fit of the axle arm shaft to the axle bearings is contributing significantly to how efficiently the motor runs. To finish up the build, I cut the bottom of the Champion shim and made up a pair of thicker magnet clips to better center the Arcos in the can as the Stock Champion shim seems to somewhat offset the magnets top & bottom. It seems that the magnets can now be shimmed tighter, but the motor runs so well and cool now, I left well enough alone. I figure, don 't mess with success I topped it all off with a set of Camen regular tension springs:



-john

[Robert V.]

Hi John

Great work on that 36D i didn't think they could handle that kind power but it sounds like it runs pretty cool so the end bell should hold up, now i wonder what gear will fit on that shaft

[HarV Wallbanger III]

Great work John but it's endbell drive so maybe a "cross" or a "T" strap for the bearing support with holes so you can mount it to a motor bracket????

[havlicek]

Hi John

Great work on that 36D i didn't think they could handle that kind power but it sounds like it runs pretty cool so the end bell should hold up, now i wonder what gear will fit on that shaft

Thanks Robert, I "overwound" the arm figuring on more torque and it does feel and sound great while staying cool. On the gear, that's easy...guys have been polishing down drill blank shafts for a looooong time to fit bearings. On this one, it's even easier as the arm doesn't have to be removed from the setup. A piece of #600 wet/dry paper on the spinning arm will take down those couple of extra ten-thousandths in no time.

Great work John but it's endbell drive so maybe a "cross" or a "T" strap for the bearing support with holes so you can mount it to a motor bracket????

Hi Barney,

The motor can go either endbell drive or can drive and either inline or sidewinder as is with a bit of creativity. For sure, cab drive (with the "circlip") and inline would be the easiest though. For mounting endbell drive, the bottom screw can be removed for mounting in a "half-bracket" and then reinstalled, or even both (carefully)...the bearing strap screws are long enough.

-john

PS...hey, "Arm Winding" is past 100,000 views! I guess my work here is done!

[Marty N]

PS...hey, "Arm Winding" is past 100,000 views! I guess my work here is done!

Not even close John

[havlicek]

...oh well Marty. I haven't done any Muras in a while

-john

[Don Weaver]

WOW!!! 100,000 views.....unbelievable. When this first started I wondered why anyone would want to wind arms anymore, now it's the first thread I look for. Great job, John.

Don Weaver

[havlicek]

Thanks Don

When this first started I wondered why anyone would want to wind arms anymore

...oh I got that a lot back then , still do sometimes

-john

[Marty N]

John, perhaps you could build a drag car? Continue with an evolution of motor winds in a platform of your choice?

[havlicek]

Hi Marty,

Other than the occasional humbling experience, I'm not so much into building cars as just motors. I look forward to doing some drag motors though, maybe even some HO stuff at some point.

-john

[havlicek]

I just got another large (and mixed) batch of motors to do and among them is a mint (never used) 13UO Mabuchi. I haven't done more than a few of these and I'm looking forward to the little guy. I have some minor tweaks to do as well as rewinding, but I'm going to leave the endbell stock (maybe some post protectors) as the metal hardware should be fine for the wind I'm planning. The "littlest Mabuchis" were always a favorite of mine, even though I never got them to run very well as a kid...mostly because of the magnets and/or MUCH too hot a wind for what was a "homeset motor". The 13UO's make dandy F1 powerplants sizewise, getting them to run better though is a must. It will be nice to have another crack at one all these years later and have it retain it's stock look. Pictures to follow

-john

[havlicek]

Here's the little Mabuchi all done up for the party

-65T/#30 awg
-New ceramic magnets
-Post protectors/sleeves (aluminum)
-Tradeship Commutator on the original stack

First up here was to ditch the original "magnets". I have some small and thin ceramics here that measure around 900 on my meter, which is honkin' strong for these things. They required a bunch of whittling to get them in there, and I epoxied them in with some JB Weld. Next was the arm, and I replaced the stock com with a Tradeship which, because of it's height was a good fit, allowing the com tabs to ride safely below the inside of the endbell. I did what would normally be a pretty mild wind (65T/#30) and then took the extra precaution of sleeving the spring posts with some aluminum tubing which was a really nice snug fit. With Camen "light" springs, the motor really spun up with authority, but was drawing around 1.4 amps and getting a little warm. I then straightened a set of D motor springs and they were much better. Now the motor only draws around .6-.7 ohm, stays nice and cool and has more revs as you would expect from the lighter tension. What a great little motor this is now, and small enough to fit about anywhere in anything while retaining the period (rewind) appearance.



-john

[Prof. Fate]

Hi

We would have killed back in 65/66 to have magnets like that!

Grin.

Before the good magnets, however, the C can came out and a lot of us were turning down the Ccan endbell to use. Frankenmotors.

Fate

[Robert V.]

Hi John

Nice work on that 13d they are great little motors and a perfect fit for a vintage F1 car, amazing the difference the springs make on amp draw i would not thought it would be that big.

[Robert V.]

Funny John you just finished your 13d and i just finished this Cox 13d last night, i cut the can down a little and replaced the mags with a set of neo's from a TSR motor rewound the arm with 35 turns of 28 gauge, furnace cement, tied and a coat of epoxy and i sent it out to have it balanced i also added a hawk end bell and i had to cut a little off the brushes to make them fit before the brushes broke in it was pulling over 3 amps and got very hot after a 5 minute break in at 6 volts the motor now pulls 1.9 amps and runs a lot cooler and it sounds like an angry bee and runs stong all the way to 16 volts.

[havlicek]

Hey Robert,

Your arms look better and better all the time...you're a quick study! With that #28, the endbell was a very good decision because the stock one probably never would have made it this far! These little motors have some significance to me because, as a kid, I never got one to run well...but then again we were (of course) using the stock magnets which are stunningly weak.

Nice work on that 13d they are great little motors and a perfect fit for a vintage F1 car, amazing the difference the springs make on amp draw i would not thought it would be that big.

Oh heck yeah. The current draw dropped almost 50% on this motor and with the new magnets still sounds like it has plenty of torque and "natural" braking...plus more revs. It's always a tradeoff though (revs and lower current draw vs grunt and higher current draw) and I keep all kinds of springs lying around here and several different gauges of wire for winding springs, because it's such an important part of how the motor will ultimately perform. 10-4 on the F1 thing too. Now that the little homeset motor is safely up in FT16D rewind territory, a really skinny and vintage inline F1 car would be just the ticket. With the right rubber and chassis, it would probably be a handful to drive...and loads of fun.

-john

[havlicek]

Hi

We would have killed back in 65/66 to have magnets like that!

Grin.

Before the good magnets, however, the C can came out and a lot of us were turning down the Ccan endbell to use. Frankenmotors.

Fate

Yeah...tell me about it Rocky, and these are "only" ceramics! Stock, these motors are so anemic it's really astounding in retrospect because they didn't seem so bad when I was a kid. I guess that's because nothing was blindingly fast like the later motors. The endbell hardware on these things is awfully simple, but the two-piece formed metal brush channels are fine...actually sort of similar to the later Mura setup with the hoods and bottom plates, although the brush fit is a bit sloppier. Frustrating, but cool little motors.

-john

[Victor Poulin]

Robert,
I agree with John, your work gets better and better each time you post here. Now im really jealous lol

Vic

[Robert V.]

Thanks John and Vic i am always trying to improve on my neatness and so far not to bad using a pin vise chucked in a small bench vise, i don't use a crank i do have one and found it a bit akward to use but i will try it again in the future, i am now working on a Champion 26d i might make it a double wind that should prove to be interesting.

[havlicek]

Hi Robert,

Doubles are still a viable option and it's definitely a good thing to get a few under your belt to see what that's all about. If you really want to dig in a little deeper, you can do layered or "serial" doubles or parallel doubles where you wind both conductors at the same time. If you do layered doubles, try one pole to get an idea of how much shorter the top layer should be by removing the wire afterwards and measuring each layer. You can then subtract say (just as an example) two turns from the top layer so both layers are about the same length. They don't have to be super exact for the double to work. Keep up the great work!

-john

[Jeff Buyer]

Hi John,

Your package arrived yesterday, so I spent last night in my workshop checking everything out. The 36D arm looks sweet - I can't wait to get it in a decent setup to give it a try. I zapped the magnet in the Atlas motor and that arm spun right up on 3 volts. It screams at 12 volts and is very smooth. Thanks for reviving this old motor for me!! Now to build a car for it. .

JB

[havlicek]

Hi Jeff,

Thanks for the update...I was pretty sure the magnet was dead and it's good to know the motor works well now! The arm was one of those that was so short that I had to wind it without the com on and the wires hanging loose and install the insulator ring and com afterwards. The 36D arm is a nice conservative wind that should live well even in a pretty stock setup...although Arcos would definitely be a plus. Enjoy Jeff

-john