3573 replies to this topic

[Prof. Fate]

Hi

I am not sure from the photo, if I am wrong I apologize. If you look at the brush spring, it looks like there is a point pressure on the brush which can lead to uneven wear and irregular performance. The end of the spring ought to be sitting flat on the brush with even pressure across the face.

Fate

[Victor Poulin]

Hi

I am not sure from the photo, if I am wrong I apologize. If you look at the brush spring, it looks like there is a point pressure on the brush which can lead to uneven wear and irregular performance. The end of the spring ought to be sitting flat on the brush with even pressure across the face.

Fate

Or just bent a tad to center on the brush. Right now it looks like all the pressure is on the top side of the brush.

[Robert V.]

Yes both Rocky and Victor are correct i bent the springs to give more tension the one in the pic just needed to be bent a hair more to hit the center of the brush the other is correct. I guess i missed that.

[Victor Poulin]

Yes both Rocky and Victor are correct i bent the springs to give more tension the one in the pic just needed to be bent a hair more to hit the center of the brush the other is correct. I guess i missed that.

Leave it to us hawk eyes to pick up on that huh ?? lol

[Robert V.]

No problem Victor and thanks i never take offense when i am getting help that's one of the reasons i post my builds here if i miss something someone else may pick it up. Next time i will be more careful.

[havlicek]

Hi Robert,

Nice job! That's a heckuva lot of wire on there and, even though I would have wound it lighter, it's an accomplishment just getting it all on there! Resistance must be way up there for that arm, but it sure is a sweet looking motor

-john

[Alchemist]

Robert,

Your motors is looking "hot" and I presume that it will be a "hot" motor - performance wise not temperature!! Nice job Robert!

Ernie

[Robert V.]

Hi John
Thanks i have no idea what the resistance is but the motor has pretty good power and pulls less than 1 amp at 6 volts runs cool to, i wound this one a bit heavy as the motor is not for me and i want it to last awhile it's also going in a vintage formula one 1 car something like a jail door nice and light, i hope it works good. Thanks Ernie i hope it performs well i will ask the owner when he gets it going.

[havlicek]

Hi Robert,

I think the motor will last just fine! Have you had a go at static balancing yet? Your motors are looking mighty fine and that little bit extra can make a noticeable difference in how they run.

I just started a second 13UO for Don Siegel. This one will be with the stock magnets so it could be run in a vintage event with no questions about period correctness. I got a can of yellow from a different manufacturer and shot and baked it after cleaning it up. It seemed to get nice and hard this time so I'll be able to put the K&B sticker on this one Pay no attention to the tape bleed around the bushing, I'll have to clean that all up...dagnabbit

-john

[Robert V.]

Hi John
To tell the truth i have not yet tried to balance them i was going to try this motor but did not want to experiment on it as it's not mine, on my next motor i may give it a try, i have one of those old Tradeship balancers the one with the 2 small steel rods mounted on the u shaped aluminum channel with the 3 adjustment screws on the base i may give that a try. I like the yellow paint on that 13D and i think these motors are very useful for a compact formula 1 type car.

[Champion 507]

Robert:

Nice job on the 26D!!! The mild wind will probably help that "maypop" Mabuchi comm last longer.

Wind on, bro! Nice work

[Robert V.]

Thanks Doug, that's one of the reasons i did a mild rewind in the hopes it would hold up for the customer and maybe get more from him and others i need the cash.

[havlicek]

Finished up 13UO #2 for Don Siegel...another #29 wind



Motor's all assembled, pretty much like the first one. I fashioned a set of hoods and used FT16D brush heatsinks and sleeved the spring posts. This one has the stock magnets (I shimmed them .004"), so the wind is a bit much for them We'll see how it holds up, but it seems to run better and better. I can't do a real break-in, so I'll have to leave that to Don. The K&B sticker wasn't in the best shape, but I still thought it would be cool to clean it up and replace it after painting the can.



-john

[Robert V.]

Hi John
Super clean work on that arm and i really have to order some of that Kevlar thread, the motor has that period correct thing going with the wires the sticker and that yellow paint.

[havlicek]

Hi Robert and thanks. I did want this one to look more "period" because Don runs in some vintage events and that's also why I used the stock "magnets" I was able to come up with a pair that were fairly well matched, so that's at least something Even with a mild rewind, the wind is way ahead of the magnets (shimmed and all)...so it's not the most efficient setup, but it's 100% Mabuchi

-john

[don.siegel]

Looks great John! Now, where did I put that 6 tooth pinion? and the lead??

I thought a 31 wind was a little much for this motor, so it will be interesting to see how the 29 does... but looks like you've made it more efficient too, so that should help.

Ah, more projects!

Don

[havlicek]

Hi Don,

Truthfully, even with a #31 wind, these things are going to have very little brakes and torque due to the magnets. This one seems to have plenty of revs and might live OK (?) so I hoped that by winding and gearing it bigtime, you might be able to make up for the lack of grunt...at least a little. It sounds stooopid...I know, but in the "spirit of the 60's" I had to give it a try

-john

[Jairus]

Fer just a ten-spot you could pop in a set of Neo magnets from a TSR motor?
Just for a quick test of course....

[proptop]

Another great looking motor John

Is that a Kirkwood com on that 13 arm? How are those holding up?
Back in the mid 90's the raceway I was going to (Oneida Raceway and Hobby) had some old Kirkwood commutators...I bought a few...still have a couple around here somewhere.
Anyway...I bought a couple of 13U motors a little while ago, thinking of rewinding one of those as well as a couple of 36's.

I don't want to hijack Mr. Fredrick's thread on the 36 in the other forum, so...I will ask my ??? here.

I bought a NOS Champion 36D can w/ Arco magnets... I would like to duplicate the performance of a 707 as closely as possable, just for the heck of it.

Question: What is the 707 wind?
I will do one of those, and then the other I will try something warmer. (not quite as warm as the 40T. of 25 that Dokk suggested though maybe 45T. of 26?)

[Prof. Fate]

Hi

John, I would do a backup 32 for don just in case. In the day besides the mod you did, I also added a .010 brass sheet plate to the face of the endbell for heat. In the 70s, I also subbed in the better magnets that Johnson did for homeset use...but of course that 29 really needs cobalts!

Grin.

The hottest semi reliable 36d wind that I know of is a 28. The limit, like with the 13uo is the endbell.

Fate

[idare2bdul]

"...Kirkwood commutators.. holding up.

The ones (mid 70's) they made that had an asbestos core were pretty reliable unless you got them too hot during the welding process. The ones that blew the com would have a gray powdery look under where the metal used to be.

The ones that they made after they discontinued the asbestos met with mixed reviews. I don't know if they fixed that because I went to RC around that time.

At the higher qualifying voltages we use today you would have to cap them and take your chances.

[havlicek]

Fer just a ten-spot you could pop in a set of Neo magnets from a TSR motor?
Just for a quick test of course....

Hi Jairus,

I have a bunch of those motors all burned up people have sent me that I could use the magnets from...but Don specifically asked to keep this one "period" so that it could be used in a vintage race. The first one I did for him had some sort of ceramic magnets in it that were quite powerful. I don't know what they came out of, but that motor runs aces.

Another great looking motor John

Is that a Kirkwood com on that 13 arm? How are those holding up?
Back in the mid 90's the raceway I was going to (Oneida Raceway and Hobby) had some old Kirkwood commutators...I bought a few...still have a couple around here somewhere.
Anyway...I bought a couple of 13U motors a little while ago, thinking of rewinding one of those as well as a couple of 36's.

Hi Tom,

Both "13s" I did for Don have Tradeship coms. I chose them because they are a big step up from the Mabuchi com, but are still narrow-ish. There's not much room in the endbell and using a Kirkwood or Mura com would have meant shortening the brush tubes and brushes and radiusing out the inside of the hardware. The Tradeship makes all that unnecessary pretty much. I did open up the brush tubes on the inside a little for safety since they were JUST clearing. Anyway, both the Tradeship and Kirkwood coms have been mostly fine. I have had one of two fly apart, but that phenolic is getting pretty old and brittle by now, so I'm always surprised at how well they have actually held together. Believe me, I have given both the "acid test"

I bought a NOS Champion 36D can w/ Arco magnets... I would like to duplicate the performance of a 707 as closely as possable, just for the heck of it.

Question: What is the 707 wind?

Beats me Tom...I'm sure Philippe or Rocky knows.

Hi

John, I would do a backup 32 for don just in case.

Hey that's awfully nice of you Rocky! ...oh wait, you meant for me to do one?! Lemme 'splain a little, these motors I do for people (not Don in this case, he tightened me up bigtime!) are mostly done for either a lot less than what they should cost...or trade for old stuff... or a combination of both, so I don't do "extra arms" for backup. "C'est la guerre" or "c'est la vie" or something like that

At the higher qualifying voltages we use today you would have to cap them and take your chances.

Hi Mike,

Running these things at over-voltage (over from the traditional 12.whatever volts) is silly. A motor can be wound to go faster at a given voltage, I'm sure the manufacturers would be happy to oblige. Raising the voltage is smoke and mirrors that speeds up everyone's cars, and shortens the life of the motors. Turn the voltage back down and everyone is still equal and their motors will last longer. Lemme go and put on my flame-retardant suit now

-john

[gascarnut]

Fer just a ten-spot you could pop in a set of Neo magnets from a TSR motor?
Just for a quick test of course....

Would a set of SCX magnets fit the 13UO can?

[havlicek]

Would a set of SCX magnets fit the 13UO can?

Hi Dennis,

They would need a little whittling and the arm would need to be polished down a little because they are thicker, but at least those are ceramics too...and quite strong also! Thoseare even stronger than the ones I used in Don's red 13UO. I have just enough stuff left to make one more 13, and I will definitely use some sort of strong magnets. I have a collection of various Mabuchi and Champion motors I've done that I keep for myself and the 13 is missing...so far

-john

[Krash]

Well I am still out here, just been busy working on some retro stuff…

Here is my latest attempt at rewinding, another 16D doublewind, someday I will get it figured out.




K