152 replies to this topic

[snolde]

An interesting idea Eddie,

Use the same specs as a 4.5" retro stocker but with a 4" WB and a 3.125" max width?

[Eddie Fleming]

Yes almost. I was still going to allow the .750 front tires and what ever guide lead you can get under the body.

 

You tell me would the big front tires work under that body?

[snolde]

The .8125 fronts would be a tight fit, .750 is better.

[brnursebmt]

I saw Scott's car run Saturday.  It looked very good on the track and seemed to be working  very well.  My only suggestion to him was an inline chassis to stay with the Retro concept.

 

That Camaro looked cool out there running against my Dodge Charger I had on the track!

[snolde]

Ordered the motor bracket and guide tongue for the inline version chassis build.

Should be able to start the build next week.

Chicago Land 2 degree guide tongue and 1 inch angled bracket. 

Will use the same .055 plated wire for the main rails.

Same layout as the angle winder.

[Richie]

I can't wait to see this car finished. Count me in to build one...well after i get a can-am,F1 and stock car built nice work Scott, I love the angle winder setup!

[Tim Neja]

The anglewinder IS a retro build!  SCRRA started as D-3  and that is one of the "retro" class's from the very beginning.  They definitely handle better than the inlines in our Coupe class--and a Trans Am body would benefit with that design as well. Enjoy them all!! 

[Eddie Fleming]

I got to see Scott's Trans-Am run Saturday.

 

I was running my stock car when Scott put the TA on the track. we ran several laps together. I am sure he was playing with me but it was a great looking car. I would like to see a full race with them. 

[snolde]

The anglewinder IS a retro build!  SCRRA started as D-3  and that is one of the "retro" class's from the very beginning.  They definitely handle better than the inlines in our Coupe class--and a Trans Am body would benefit with that design as well. Enjoy them all!! 

I agree that anglewinders are retro. 

They do handle better and are easier to build from scratch than an inline set up.

With an inline set up the motor bracket is key to how well the chassis will work.

It needs to be filed flat where the motor attaches so the motor can isn't deformed when the mounting screws are tight.

The armature shaft needs to be at 90 degrees to the axle.

Setting the gear mesh to the crown gear to name a few things.

 

The tricky part in an anglewinder is how long to make the axle tube so that the rails fit nicely, the motor sits flat on the jig to solder it in and some room is left for axle spacers between the rear bushings and the rear tires.

Also the angle that the motor sits in the chassis is important.

Everything else is  straight forward.

 

It should be an interesting comparison between the inline set up and the anglewinder, going to stay as close as possible on the inline chassis to the anglewinder.

[snolde]

I got to see Scott's Trans-Am run Saturday.

 

I was running my stock car when Scott put the TA on the track. we ran several laps together. I am sure he was playing with me but it was a great looking car. I would like to see a full race with them. 

Thanks Eddie,

If you build one and and a couple of other racers do the same we can have a race, isn't this how a class gets started? On a local level anyway. Or maybe this is how class racing gets started on a larger scale.

[Eddie Fleming]

Thanks Eddie,

If you build one and and a couple of other racers do the same we can have a race, isn't this how a class gets started? On a local level anyway. Or maybe this is how class racing gets started on a larger scale.

I will build one Scott, but just now I have a new F1 in the works and the F1 I ran Saturday is in for a rethink. I have a stock car to rework and I want to build a new Can -Am. And then there are a couple of non retro projects calling for time.

 

Not to mention things I need to do around the house. 

 

I will get to it I hope. 

[snolde]

Just getting started on the inline build, still waiting on the guide tongue to arrive.

The Chicago land motor bracket is bent and squared up, .055 main rails soldered up (2 per side) and the 1.25 wide by 1.00 inch .062 chunk of brass up front is cut and filed flat.

Will post pictures as the build progresses.

[snolde]

Finally received the guide tongue and started the build tonight.

Here's what I have so far...

 

 

[John Luongo]

outstanding chassis jig!

[snolde]

Thanks John, I like the Jig too.

 

Got some more building in tonight.

.062 pans cut to length 2 7/8" x 3/4" 

.062 front pieces cut and soldered in. 1/4" wide stock.

front .062 piano wire across the entire width and under the guide tongue soldered.

going to do some more on it tomorrow night.

 

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[Richie]

Scott,

Looks great! Can't wait to see this turning laps!

[snolde]

Some more building tonight,

front end L braces installed and pan hinge up stops and pan hinge tubes.

Also the .015 brass shims attached to the front of the pans.

The shims are to line up the .055 piano wire pan hinge rods with the hinge tubes/up stops.

The hinge tubing wall thickness is .014 so I add the .015 brass shims to the pans so the hinge rods will sit level in the tube.

.055 wire inside 1/8th inch square tube allows for a little wiggle in all directions, not a lot just a little.

 

 

 

[Richie]

Well done! Looks great Scott.

[snolde]

Pan hinge piano wire installed, out of time to work on it some more tonight.

Should be able to install the bite bar and body mounting pin tubes tomorrow night.

 

[snolde]

Got a little bit more done tonight.

front axle cut a bit long to ease the setup of the front tires, I'll trim it to proper length later.

Bite bar or rear pan stops, what ever you call'em.

Decided to go with IRRA stock car fronts instead of can-am fronts.

 

Specs on the chassis will be:

.050 clearance front and rear

4 inch wheel base

3/4 inch guide lead

.8125 minimum tire diameter front and rear

3.125 inch max chassis width

120g minimum weight

 

Basically an IRRA Stock Car spec but a bit wider a bit shorter with a JK Trans-Am body.

 

[Eddie Fleming]

[FVracer]

Late to the party as usual. I saw this car racing at Blackhawk Farms at the Classic in 2020. Fascinating to see it run amongst the Mustangs and Camaros with one Javelin thrown in. No way for me to tell which cars were recreations rather than authentic.

 

Factory lightweight Dodge D-Dart Trans-Am car heads to auction | Hemmings

[snolde]

Slow going on this build, busy work schedule.

Front axle is soldered in and cut to length, ride height set to .050

Front tire keepers are not in place yet.

I use the front and rear axles installed in the chassis to mark center on the body wheel wells.

I cut the body to fit square on the chassis, poke pin holes for mounting and if i like what i see i squeeze the body at the front into the axle and it leaves a nice mark on the body right where the center of the tires will be. same on the rears.

 

Need to put pin tubes and finish the rear of the car.

bracing the motor bracket and put the axle tube in place.

already enlarged the axle tube holes a little and checked that the tube will sit ok with the jig wheels in place.

 

 

[Eddie Fleming]

Scott I find it interesting that you build the chassis and put the rear axle tube in at the end. I may give that a try. I put the tube in the bracket early on and build around the bracket tube unit. There are time when it would be nice to have the tube out of the way to work on other things.

 

Cool carry on.

[snolde]

Eddie,

I have done the motor bracket and axle tube first, other builders do it that way too.

If I do it I always have to reset the tube because it never comes out exactly right.

so I decided to do it once, near the end of the building.

I do enlarge the holes in the bracket for the tube before I bend it. Then make sure the bracket is squared up and the front of it filed flat 

Just seems easier for me to do it that way.