169 replies to this topic

[crazyphysicsteacher]

What brushes are you switching to?

I have been using the koford Bigfoot2 The old proslot g7 brush was good but I have nothing but problems with the new version.

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[crazyphysicsteacher]

With respect, I disagree

I don’t believe they can ‘move or become out of alignment’ as you have indicated above, unless the screws were not done up.


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The hoods can bend at the wire tabs which will cause alignment issues. I have also had several proslot motors have hood screws loosen during races and slow as a result. The issue arises from short screws and spring cups that are not fully drilled to the right depth. The only fix for just the screws is going to the machine screws proslot sells for when using the brass hardware.


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[MSwiss]

Thanks.

I had heard the BFII's were wearing real quickly, lately.

[Bill Seitz]

The hoods can bend at the wire tabs which will cause alignment issues. I have also had several proslot motors have hood screws loosen during races and slow as a result. The issue arises from short screws and spring cups that are not fully drilled to the right depth. The only fix for just the screws is going to the machine screws proslot sells for when using the brass hardware.


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I've noted the bending and also the hardware moving. I didn't try tightening first to see if the screws were loose, but could have been. I went to work re-aligning the hardware which begins with making the screws loose and re-tightening when I'm satisfied with alignment. Come back again on periodic maintenance or when the motor isn't running well and the hardware is misaligned again.

[Zippity]

The hoods can bend at the wire tabs which will cause alignment issues. I have also had several proslot motors have hood screws loosen during races and slow as a result. The issue arises from short screws and spring cups that are not fully drilled to the right depth. The only fix for just the screws is going to the machine screws proslot sells for when using the brass hardware.


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Chris, you are correct in your comments, as is Bill.

 

Ignore the comments from my fellow countryman.

[MSwiss]

Ron & Steve,

You guys have been doing a super-awesome job keeping the debate on this motor civil/non-personal.

 

Unfortunately I just had to edit out a pretty mild, but still unnecessary comment, in the last post.

 

Let's shift it back into super-awesome.

[Zippity]

How close is the cr102, when compared to a PS4002?

 

Where can I purchase one from?

[MSwiss]

Very similar in times.

It's referred to as a 40K motor from my vendor but it can usually pull a pinion at least two teeth larger.

You can probably get, what many say, is slot racing's most consistent motor, at PCH, PSCR, or MA.

[swodem]

Ron & Steve,
You guys have been doing a super-awesome job keeping the debate on this motor civil/non-personal.
 
Unfortunately I just had to edit out a pretty mild, but still unnecessary comment, in the last post.
 
Let's shift it back into super-awesome.

What did I say!?


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[MSwiss]

I referred to the last post which was Ron's.

IOW, you are still in super-awesome mode and I would like Ron to rejoin you.

[swodem]

I referred to the last post which was Ron's.

IOW, you are still in super-awesome mode and I would like Ron to rejoin you.

Thanks for clearing that up




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[swodem]

Here is an (old) 4002 that I have grabbed the hardware tabs and wenched them way out of alignment with a pair of pliers

The hood ‘housing’ hasn’t moved

It won’t because it’s clamped in place by the screws and spring posts, which are located by nipples

So trust me, a tug on the lead wire won’t end up in your timing going off




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[MSwiss]

Ok, I cleaned up the thread.

Ron, Steve, next time you guys go off on each other, I'll lock it.

[Zippity]

With all due respect, of the 6 motors sold within the Wellington Slot Car Club, here in New Zealand, two of us have had issues with the motors overheating excessively, melting and distorting the hardware on the end bells.

 

I guess that there is more than one way to skin a cat, so to speak.

 

 

[Rob Voska]

With all due respect, of the 6 motors sold within the Wellington Slot Car Club, here in New Zealand, two of us have had issues with the motors overheating excessively, melting and distorting the hardware on the end bells.

 

I guess that there is more than one way to skin a cat, so to speak.

 

Assuming you are in the ballpark gear wise.  As close as you can tell is the timing the same on all of them?  Did the two hot motors have the same or more timing than the rest?  

[gotboostedvr6]

I just heard back from my buddy I prepped 4 of these motors for. First 2 burned and 3rd ran good enough. Geared 10 36, .720 on hill climb with lmp body. Was a touch faster than 4002fk.

Ill have the burned motors in hand maybe next week

[Zippity]

We had both geared our motors 10:36 which is the "going ratio" on our large flat road course.

 

One car just refused to move on the home straight - period. The braids and lead wire were very hot to the touch.

 

The second reached full speed 1/3 of the way down the front straight.

 

Both have had their end bells dismantled and rebuilt.

 

I do not know the timing of either, as we race the motors "sealed" 

[Jason Holmes]

Ron 

 

You did say GT12 Eurosport

 

jason

 

P.S the speedball are the same wind as the USRA spec motor  but timing is 13degs less at 25Degs we recommended 11/43 72p for the USRA motor 

[Zippity]

Ron 

 

You did say GT12 Eurosport

 

jason

 

P.S the speedball are the same wind as the USRA spec motor  but timing is 13degs less at 25Degs we recommended 11/43 72p for the USRA motor 

 

I can only find reference to where I said G12

 

We race Gp12 armatures in C cans in Horky type Eurosport chassis with Parma Caddy bodies in what we call GTP cars.

 

The PS4002 has been our mainstay motor for our Entry Level Flexi LMP and F1 classes.

 

The recently introduced PS9000, which is supposed to be the 4002 's replacement motor, is still far too fast for our Entry Level classes - assuming you get a good one.

 

To be beaten by a faster motor by 2 or 3 laps in each 2 minute heat, is demoralizing, to say the least.

 

If I said GT12, I apologize. Please supply me with the post number

[swodem]

 
I can only find reference to where I said G12
 
We race Gp12 armatures in C cans in Horky type Eurosport chassis with Parma Caddy bodies in what we call GTP
…..
 
If I said GT12, I apologize. Please supply me with the post number

Post 73




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[Zippity]

Hello Jason.

 

Your friend still cannot read, I see

 

NZSCA Rules, clearly state G12 Eurosport - NOT GT12.

[MSwiss]

Enough with the minutiae of 12 whatsoever.

[Zippity]

Enough with the minutiae of 12 whatsoever.

 

But hey, it is OK to keep trying to put words in my mouth  

[MSwiss]

Ok, I cleaned up the thread.

Ron, Steve, next time you guys go off on each other, I'll lock it.

  

Enough with the minutiae of 12 whatsoever.

  

But hey, it is OK to keep trying to put words in my mouth

Why we can't have nice stuff on Slotblog.

[MSwiss]

Ok, I reopened the thread, now that I'm awake and can quickly delete any nonsense from the other side of the World.